Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast

Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast

United States

Chalk Talk is a climbing industry podcast. A place to find interesting and enlightening discussions with professionals in the rock climbing industry. In depth conversations with route setters, coaches, professional climbers, gym managers/owners and much more. Chalk Talk is the place to find inspiration and contemplation on the future of the climbing world and where to take your climbing to the next level.

Episodes

Ep. 63 w/ Jason Kehl | Cryptochild to Climbing Wall Creation  

**This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, Climbing Injuries Solved, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for Episode with Jason Kehl: Settling into his new home in El Paso, Tx just 30 mins from Hueco Tanks bouldering (2:36) What inspires his search first ascents (4:47) Training and preparing for unsent FA’s that are just out of reach (9:52) “Does a send happen if no one is around to post about it?” and other thoughts on social media (11:44) Crafting wall design through setting and hold shaping (15:10) Design Elements of Crystal City’s Earth Treks Gym and trying to do something new (18:42) Balancing form and function in gym wall design (21:44) Trashing traditional granite...

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Ep.62 w/ Eddie Fowke | The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine  

On photographing for the IFSC competitions, living life on the road for over a year, and, of course, the future of climbing in the Olympics…. **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Eddie Fowke is the official photographer for the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the Editor in Chief of The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine. Eddie photographs the world’s strongest climbers at international competitions and world-class climbing areas. He is in constant movement around the globe since there is always another stop on the IFSC World Cup Circuit, another pro competition, or what short vacations he can squeeze out between jobs. Due to the...

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New Year’s Episode w/ Rocklands Special  

 I thought I’d try something new, considering it’s a new year. So, here is a narrative episode about working with a non-profit climbing team in The Rocklands, South Africa…. **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! First off, I want to wish everyone a very happy new year. This has been an excellent year for Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast and it is all because of you guys, our listeners! We have reached record downloads, gotten in contact with great new guests, and now, we’re venturing into creating narrative-style podcast episodes. So, I hope you all like it. Please let us know by emailing the podcast at Mail@CTclimbingpodcast.com or...

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Ep. 61 w/ Petra Klingler | 2016 IFSC Boulder Champ  

On being a third generation rock climber, Switzerland’s sports-based school system, and winning the 2016 IFSC boulder world cup… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Summary Petra Klingler is a 24-year-old climber from Bonstetten, Switzerland. She began climbing as a child; influenced by her parents and grandparents who would take turns watching her and her brother while the others would embark on multi-pitches and alpine climbs. She has since grown to be one of the best female climbers in Europe. This year (2016), Petra secured a 1st place podium spot at the IFSC Bouldering Championships in Paris, France over Miho Nonaka (JPN) and the...

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Ep.60 w/ Dan Beall “Dinner with Dan in the Rocklands”  

On playing the social media/sponsor game, his motivations, and climbing in the Rocklands… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Dan Beall: Dan’s origin story with climbing (3:22) What drew him to Bishop, a place where he’s built his reputation (8:46) Realities of wooing sponsors, social media, and trying to remain genuine (12:12) The return on investment for companies sponsoring athletes (19:00) Rocklands (24:49) Managing injuries and trying to keep forward progression (26:42) With so much climbing in the states, why spend the money to travel to Africa (28:38) The goals Dan set for himself heading out to the Rocklands (31:13)...

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Ep.59 w/ Zack DiChristino | Understanding Climbing in Sports Medicine  

On injuries and recovery, Alex Puccio’s quick return from knee surgery, and why it’s important to find a doctor who understands climbing… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Zack DiChristino: How important is a PT or physio for athletes who are training or competing in something like the World Cup Series Is it important for a doctor or PT to have a knowledge of climbing to properly assess an injury Was Alex Puccio’s speedy recovery a case of proper care and rehab, or is she a superhero Finger injuries and the fact and fiction of recovery techniques...

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2016 World Cup Roundup | Vail, USA  

On Shauna’s amazing weekend, Jongwon’s exciting adventures, and who’s going to take the overall titles in Paris… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode on 2016 World Cup: Hanging out and climbing with the athletes before the comp at The Spot Climbing Gym’s Annual Pancake Feed The coordination of the Japanese team A bit of history of climbing’s involvement in the Vail Mountain Games The pairing of problems from different qualification groups How splitting the qualification groups helps and hinders The return of Alex Puccio one year after her knee injury The incredible sports action of men’s final 3 Shauna’s...

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Ep.58 w/ Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane  

Shauna and Leah on this season’s IFSC World Cup, Acro Yoga, and having fun wherever they go… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Shauna and Leah: How they celebrated Leah’s birthday on the road Trying to find time to play amidst a busy World Cup season Making the travel fun What’s behind Shauna’s success and the feeling of being injury free What happened in India that caused Shauna to miss finals How Leah went from being constantly at 21st to making semis every comp this season A competitor’s view on the competition in Kazo, Japan Why they’ve...

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Ep. 57 w/ Sierra Blair-Coyle “Making Waves”  

Sierra Blair-Coyle on how the IFSC World Cup season is going, how she inspires climbers and companies through social media, and how she manages to avoid negativity in her public life **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Sierra Blair-Coyle: World Cup travel and tribulations How the IFSC season has been going for her Analyzing mistakes she’s made in this season’s World Cup and how she is working on them Training with Slovenian team coach, Roman Krajnik Her home wall and training set up Seeking sponsors and letting them find you Filming the LG commercial that had her...

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2016 World Cup Roundup: in which Udo Neuman educates John and Jackie  

On the 2016 World Cup Season, economic structures of climbing around the globe, and why a love for traveling is a good tool to have during the IFSC season **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Udo Neumann: The trials and tribulations of attending a competition in Navi Mumbai, India What makes a good world cup, and what makes a bad one: from India, to Japan, to Baku, to Munich Some of the downsides of the Kazo, Japan competition Chinese hospitality at the competitions for athletes and coaches, and the great internet firewall that the media has to...

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Ep.56 w/ Tyson Schoene | Listener Response  

This listener response episode was recorded using follow-up questions from Chalk Talk listeners after hearing my interview with Tyson from Episode 51. Enjoy! **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Related Links for Tyson Schoene: Vertical World Climbing | www.VerticalWorld.com Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for Tyson Schoene: Ep.51 w/ Tyson Schoene “Made in a Vertical World” **commercial music by www.bensound.com** Thanks for listening and be sure to leave a review for Chalk Talk, A Climbing Industry Podcast on itunes! click on us!!!

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2016 World Cup Roundup | Kazo, Japan  

On the happenings and excitement of the 2016 FSC World Cup held in Kazo, Japan. **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode on 2016 World Cup: (coming soon) Related Links for 2016 World Cup: International Federation of Sport Climbing | www.IFSC-climbing.org The Circuit Climbing and Performance Magazine | www.TheCircuitClimbing.com World Cup Coverage | www.OnBouldering.com Joshua Tree Skin Care | www.JTreeLife.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 2o% discount)* Gnarly Nutrition | www.GoGnarly.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Power Company | www.PowerCompanyClimbing.com *[sponsored] (enter ‘chalktalk’ for 20% discount)* Related Chalk Talk Podcast Episodes for 2016 World Cup: 2016 World Cup Roundup episodes for Meiringen 2015 World...

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2016 World Cup Roundup | Meiringen, Switzerland  

On the happenings of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Meiringen, Switzerland on April 15-16, 2016 **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Show Notes for episode on 2016 World Cup: Jackie’s assessments of the setting overall with a large focus on body tension A breakdown of some of the interesting moments of the individual climbs and how they affected the outcome How much weight the Men’s #4 problem carried for each competitor The reason for Ty Landman’s frustration at not being able to finish Men’s #4 How Melissa LeNeve came out with a vengeance this comp and got her first podium...

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Ep.55 w/ Angel Palacio of OnBouldering.com  

 On what it takes to travel the globe filming World Cup competitions, what he thinks climbing media coverage needs, and where he’s off to this season… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care, Power Company Climbing, and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for up to 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with OnBouldering: What Angel thought was lacking in Bouldering World Cup coverage How the help of a friend inspired him to start OnBouldering.com Going all in and having to borrow a camera for his first World Cup How much of a financial investment being on the circuit is, and how he keeps it cheap How he manages to film, edit, and publish the highlight reels so...

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Ep. 54 w/ The Wolfpack, Noah Kaufman & Ian Dory  

On the Wolfpack Ninja Podcast, making the most of climbing while still training for ANW, and the Wolfpack’s mission against childhood obesity **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with The Wolfpack: How Noah and Ian got started with American Ninja Warrior The V-grades of ANW (in case you’re wondering how hard the course is) Lots of what happens behind the scenes of ANW On Isaac Caldiero’s win and his flight to the mountains How and why Ian, Noah, Megan Martin, and Brian Arnold started the Wolfpack Ninja Podcast Getting to know the people behind the personas while interviewing ninjas for Wolfpack Ninja Podcast...

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Ep.53 w/ Sean McColl, The Canadian Powerhouse  

On his constant competitive life, how American Ninja Warrior has affected his life, and training to stay on top… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Sean McColl Making the move to Chambery, France and living his double life Getting invited to compete in American Ninja Warrior USA vs. The World How the course felt with no previous practice on the obstacles Why climbers seem to excel in ANW Sean’s strategy in stage 3 trying to best Isaac Caldiero, and how Isaac took the win for Team USA Comparing the growth of American Ninja Warrior and climbing as sports His road from struggling...

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Ep.52 w/ Charlie Barrett “The Reluctant Guide”  

On everything he had to learn to publish his Tuolumne and Mammoth bouldering guides, his reluctance to ever work on a guide again, and why the Bishop guide wouldn’t leave him alone… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Charlie Barrett: Why he decided to take on his first guide book, Mammoth Bouldering Guidebook What he had to learn to make it happen His early roots in boulder area development Finishing the Mammoth guide and happy to be done with writing guidebooks The phone call that led to Charlie inevitably writing the Tuolumne guide What information to include in a guide Why write...

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Ep.51 w/ Tyson Schoene “Made in a Vertical World”  

On becoming a youth climbing coach, his methods to training some of the best youth athletes in America, and advice for athletes bound for Nationals… **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Tyson Schoene: How he was born on the end of a rope and swindled into coaching youth climbers What methods he used to train youth climbers when he first started out and how those methods have evolved into how he coaches today Steps he took to manage team growth and expansion Coaching kids both as a group and as individuals Catering to each climber’s strengths and abilities What about his coaching...

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Ep.50 w/ Ander Rockstad “Building a Better Machine”  

Ander Rockstad on climbing 5 months on in Hueco with minimal rest days, training and eating for that brutal schedule, and what you can do to build a better machine **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on itunes! Show Notes for episode with Ander Rockstad: Catching up with Ander and his year since he was on the show for episode 10 Learning the body’s macro-cycles How he was able to climb for 5 months in Hueco with only 7 rest days How he avoided injury over those five months Periodization and training cycles Why collagen protein, vitamin C, and organ meats should be integral parts of a climber’s nutrition...

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Ep.49 w/ Kevin Jorgeson “Driven By A Question”  

On the question that spurred their push up the Dawn Wall, the post-ascent media fury, and embarrassing moments on The Ellen Degeneres Show **This episode is sponsored by Joshua Tree Skin Care and Gnarly Nutrition. Support this podcast by entering “chalktalk” at checkout for 20% off you next order!** Listen on the player at the top of the page or find us on iTunes! Show Notes for episode with Kevin Jorgeson: The hero’s journey that Kevin and Tommy went through The catalyst moment that spurred all of the media attention  How media and technology helped him get through pitch 15 Why this attempt was the was the perfect moment The question, not the goal, that drove them up the Dawn Wall How they managed the media storm that engulfed them on the wall and after The scariest thing Kevin has ever done in...

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