The Enormocast: a climbing podcast

The Enormocast: a climbing podcast

United States

A Slice of the Climbing Life


Episode 114: Kolin Powick uses SCIENCE to keep you ALIVE! - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 114 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Black Diamond’s Category Director and former Director of Quality, Kolin Powick. Episode 114 is filled with science and nerds out on gear. We start specifically with Black Diamond’s recent recalls, … Continue reading

Episode 113: Rob Pizem – The Time is Now. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 113, I finally move Rob Pizem from his on-deck status to current guest after saving him for a rainy day for a few years. Pizem, AKA Piz, manages a “normal” life in Grand Junction, Colorado and still climbs really … Continue reading

Episode 112: Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet – The Collector. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 112, I sit down with crack master Jean-Pierre, AKA Peewee, Ouellet. This one is for the crack nerds- the folks for whom the difference between a ring-lock and a finger-stack can be an all night, booze fueled debate, and JP delivers. We learn about his very specific approach to hard crack "collecting". JP has repeated hard single pitch crack climbs all over North America, and he's not stopping soon. He also comes clean on the tricks of the trade, some of which may raise the permanently scowling eyebrows of the crusty tradsters out there. But above all, Jean-Pierre approaches his routes with a certain savoir faire, a je n'est ce qua, a je reviendrai that the rest of us don't have. Listen and learn, crack aficionados! JP on No Way Jose. Alex Honnold on No Way Jose (for comparison).

Episode 111: Brad Gobright – High Class Dirtbag. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 111 of the Enormocast, I sit down with rock climber and genuine good guy, Brad Gobright. This lighthearted "kid" approaches climbing the gnar with joy and stoke, but don't let that fool you - he's got the eye of the tiger and skills of the ninja. Brad has been quietly crushing first free solos and speed records in Colorado and California for a long time. His new found recognition does not fit him like a glove, but he's getting comfortable with the creature comforts that come with success, like not living in his Civic. Happy to be climbing, happy to be on the Enormocast, happy to be alive, Brad gives us a lesson on how to have a good time, all the time. OverSpray about Brad from Outside Three El Cap Routes in a Day The Naked Edge Really Really Fast

Episode 110: Cheyne Lempe – Finding His Way. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 110 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a seedy hotel in SLC with a very Zen Cheyne Lempy. Cheyne had just returned from a session with Rock Warrior Way's author, Arno Ilgner, and was feeling absolutely himself. Cheyne instantly unloads about his trip to Baffin depicted in his film, Haywire. His first big expedition, things did not go as planned and Cheyne came to question the motivations that brought him so deep and "out there" on the ice. Cheyne also comes clean about the anxiety and depression that he has dealt with his whole life, even while taking down big walls left and right. He's ready for the next big thing, but he's just not quite sure what that might be. Cheyne's Website

Episode 109: Chelsea Rude – Can She Suffer? Yes, She Can. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin' during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around comp climbing, then sport climbing, and now Chelsea- a seasoned 30 year old- wants to suffer in the big mountains. She's dabbled in ice climbing, thrown herself at a gnarly Alaskan peak, and is cutting her teeth on the cracks. Will her desire to suffer survive repeated punishment? Only time will tell, but on the way, she'll still crush your project at will. Chelsea in Ceuse Chelsea in The Red

Episode 108: Joe Kinder – Working for it. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 107 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio in Rifle Mountain Park with Joe Kinder. Joe grew up in New England where he joined a crew of hotshot sport climbers that included Tim Kemple, Luke GOMEZ Parady, and Dave Graham. Self-described as the weakest of that band, Joe has nevertheless gone on to create a career out of climbing and ticked an extensive list of hard routes across the world. He started as a punk kid trying to be cool, and has become a consummate pro and route developer. Yet, as we sit down, the nervous kid worried about being cool comes out in this down to earth and revealing interview.

Episode 107: Mike Libecki – Passion for Adventure. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

                    On Episode 107 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an office in Carbondale with expedition climber, explorer, and super-dad, Mike Libecki. Mike was once just a Yosemite climbing- bum like so many before him, but then he found expedition climbing and his fate was sealed. 60+ expeditions later and first ascents in far-flung locals such as Baffin Island, Greenland, Madagascar, and Afghanistan, Mike is still going strong and pulling his daughter along with him in his life of exploration. 100 expeditions are his goal, and after that? More trips, we suppose. "Never ration passion!" is Mike's saying du jour, and he lives that every damn day. Mike's Website. More about Mike. About Mike's Film Poumaka.

Episode 106: Live from Bonfire Coffee 2016 w/ Cedar Wright, Leici Hendrix, and Jen Altschul. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 106 of the Enormocast, join Chris and guests Cedar Wright, Leici Hendrix, and Jen Altschul for a live listener mail from Bonfire Coffee in downtown Carbondale, CO. We discuss various questions concerning love on the rocks, lowering vs rappelling off anchors, and more. Wonky and freewheeling, you never know what you're going to get from the live ones. Cedar Wright Leici Hendrix Jen Altschul at Dirtbag Diaries

Episode 105: Will Stanhope – Real Men Don’t Cry (Mostly). - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 105, I sit down for a trip down memory lane with Canadian hero Will Stanhope. After cutting his teeth in Squamish, Will, and his buddy Jason Kruk, took Canadian climbing up a notch or two in the last decade. In an era of hotshot boulderers and sport climbers, Will took the opposite track towards big trad climbing and heady leads. Humble almost to a fault, Will continues to pull off hard leads in a style that hearkens back to the Golden Age more than the Internet Age. What's more, he's willing to buy you a Kokonee if you send his routes in better style. (Hey, Kokanee! Sponsor this guy already!). Will's Website Will sounding sooper-dooper Canadian, eh, while trying the Cobra Crack, eh.

Episode 104: Ines Papert – Walking the The Beautiful Line. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On episode 104, I sit down in the Mobile Studio with German climber, Ines Papert. Ines started like many by hiking in her local mountains in Bavaria. But one day she decided walking around cliff faces sucked, and her fate was sealed. She has since become one of the top mixed ice climbers, a strong alpinist, and a top notch rock climber. Her proudest achievement? Raising up a 15 year old kid who loves the the outdoors, accordion, and big trucks. Climbing and exploration go hand in hand with being a mom for Ines. Ines' Website Ines on Riders on the Storm Write up of the Riders Trip A Trippy Version of Riders on the Storm

Episode 103: Stacy Bare- All We Need is Love, Climbing. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 103, I sit down with dad, husband, climber, skier, and Iraq War vet, Stacy Bare. Stacy is fresh off a trip to Angola with Alex Honnold, but he wants you to know that he's really not a very good climber. Not good at all. So why did Honnold agree to go to Angola with him? Because he asked. Stacy found climbing while dancing on the edge of the void with booze, cocaine, and thoughts of suicide. The focus of climbing and the community around it brought him back from that edge, and his wife and child, Wilder, have kept him on stable footing ever since. Also, his day job leading kids, veterans, and so many others in the outdoors helps his stoke immensely. Oh, and lets talk about clearing landmines by hand while we're at it. Veteran Outreach at Sierra Club Outdoors Stacy's old job clearing ordinance with the Halo Trust  

Episode102: Rebecca Rusch – Once a Climber, Always a Climber. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 102 of the Enormocast, I sit down with long time friend and badass endurance athlete, Rebecca Rusch. Reba, as her friends call her (thanks to me), AKA The Queen of Pain, is known world wide for her feats on her mountain bike, but she was a climber first. After so much success in the realm of endurance mountain biking, including four Leadville 100 solo titles and more World Championships than you can shake a $20,000 dollar carbon fiber frame at, Reba still considers climbing her first love. One day, she will return to the fold and probably dominate climbing in some way, just like she has in so many of her athletic paths. This one is actually about walking away from climbing. Unheard of, I know. Rebecca's Website

Episode 101: Justin Wood – Problem Solver. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

                  On Episode 101 of the Enormocast, I sit down with SLC local, Justin Wood. Justin is a guy who has deep roots in the Salt Lake climbing scene but has traveled the world as a dirtbag and a van bum. Never one to let a job get in the way of a good road trip, Justin managed the vagabond climber lifestyle until pursuing a heady degree in Math finally settled him back down in the city and canyons of his youth. Now Justin is trying to be a matur-ish adult between trips and developing boulders in his home areas, even giving back as a activist on the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance. Justin is also a vegan who crushes.  The OTHER Justin Wood.

Episode 100: Tommy Caldwell – Adventure Addict. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 100 of the Enormocast, I get a little help from my friends to celebrate my entire catalog - 100! YEAH, DAWG! -  and we then get down to an epic convo with man of the hour, and climber of the ages, Tommy Caldwell. Tommy talks inspiration, professionalism, and the ups and downs of life in the spotlight. He gets down to brass tacks about the Dawn Wall, and all it has meant to him professionally and personally. We also run down a series of equally amazing feats that nobody but us climbers noticed, including putting up two of the other hardest big walls in the world . Now that he's super famous among the non-climbing civies, Tommy's future is unknown, but he likes it that way. The big-bad pitch 15 doesn't look too hard in this video...just sayin'. A Teenie-tiny write up on the Dihedral Wall.  A Nice Write-up of Magic Mushroom in a day by Matt Samet.  

Episode 99- Libby Sauter – Life on the Short Fix. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 99 of the Enormocast, I sit down in yet another seedy hotel with speed climber and former YOSAR member, Libby Sauter. Libby takes her adventure way beyond climbing as a nurse, often flying to far off locals with the Novick Cardiac Alliance. She cut her climbing teeth on the legendary Yosemite Search and Rescue team, and before long was speeding up The Nose in less time than it takes you to binge watch 5 episodes of Breaking Bad. Along with Mayan Smith-Gobat, Libby owns the women's speed record on The Nose at 4:42! Always smiling, never whining (almost), Libby is carrying the torch for adventure climbing and begging us to follow. Mayan and Libby sending the Nose. Libby is also a sic slack-liner (but we won't hold that against her!). Inspired by Libby? Consider giving a little somethin' somethin' to the Novick Cardiac Alliance to help keep her in scrubs.

Episode 98: Eric Barnard – Small Town, Big Dreams. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 98 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Midwest native and ice farmer, Eric Barnard. Eric found climbing after Jerry's death and getting sick and tired of Hacky Sack, and he went on to develop the early bouldering scene at Devil's Lake, Wisconsin. After a stint in Pocatello, Idaho, he and his family moved back to the flatish-lands to start working on a climbing empire on the Mississippi. While working as the Director of Winona State's Outdoor Education and Recreation Center, he has been a force behind creating a world class gym and now a city supported ice park. A motivated family man and climber, Eric is trying to have it all in what will soon become the Boulder of the upper midwest, Winona, Minnesota. Take a class from Eric.

Episode 97: Jay Smith – A Climber for All Seasons - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 97 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a limping Mobile Studio with alpinist, and all-around climber, Jay Smith. Jay and I get through his discomfort to talk about his early climbing, his vast motivation for first ascents, rigging, and best partners. Jay may or may not have sanctioned himself Clint-Eastwood-style by revealing classified intel about Navy Seal training. Jay is more at home freezing on a Himalayan peak than talking about himself, but his personality shines through in this hour in the Mobile Studio. Since there's basically nothing on the internet about Jay Smith, the climber, here's a video of Jay Smith, the Swedish Country singer.

Episode 96: Said Belhaj – All In, All the Time. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 96 of the Enormocast, I luck out and sit down with Swedish/Moroccan/Finnish climber, Said Belhaj. After obsessively adventuring on nearby rocks and breaking into his grade school like a ninja to train, Said found sport climbing and his fate was set. He is a seeker and finds the meditative state in climbing to be as necessary as air and food. As an accomplished musician, Said travels the world sending hard routes and blowing minds with transcendental music. All in, all the time, Said Belhaj is a climber for the ages.   Said's Website. Said Belhaj profile by Andrew Bisharat

Episode 95: Stefan Glowacz – Still on Top. - The Enormocast: a climbing podcast  

On Episode 95 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a slowly deteriorating studio with German climbing legend, Stefan Glowacz. Stefan informed my early climbing with his seminal book Rocks Around the World. He started as a hotshot comp climber, then a sport climber, and has gone on to establish monster alpine routes and big rock climbs around the globe. Always seeking new adventures by fair means, Stefan is nowhere near done finding new goals and pushing the envelope. A young Stefan freesolos Katchoong in Arapiles. A crazy-ass rig in a cave.

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