Episodi
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How does a young surfer from Santa Cruz rise to become a shining star in the world of surfing? Jackson Taylor's journey from being influenced by his dad's impressive backhand technique to experimenting with cutting-edge boards by Bobby Ledesma and Lost speaks volumes of his dedication and passion. This episode unpacks Jackson's story, his inspirations, and his insights into the next wave of talent, including Julian Trang, Otter Punch (Kai), and Brody Price, showcasing the relentless pursuit of excellence within the Santa Cruz surfing community.
In celebrating the vibrant culture of surfing and the invaluable bond between surfers and photographers, we reflect on legendary moments that have defined Jackson's career. From his iconic stand-up barrel photo that captivated magazine covers to the mutual respect shared between surfers and photographers, the episode delves deep into the magnetism certain surfers possess, making every shot a masterpiece. This chapter explores the symbiotic dance of skill and timing that immortalizes the breathtaking moments on the waves, capturing the heart and soul of surfing culture.
From the powerful waves of Oahu to the intense mental and physical challenges faced by surfers, this episode is a thrilling ride through the highs and lows of the surfing world. We discuss the crucial aspects of surf etiquette, the camaraderie among surfers, and the therapeutic nature of both surfing and skating. Jackson shares his personal fitness routines, his new collaboration with Sector Nine, and the importance of balancing sports with education and life. Stories of resilience, near-death experiences at Pipeline, and the invaluable support systems that guide athletes through their journey provide listeners with inspiring insights and lessons from the heart of the surfing community. -
What does it take to become one of the world's best power surfers and a true ambassador of Aloha? Join us as we embark on an inspiring journey with Pancho Sullivan, whose life story begins at Taylor Camp, a unique hippie commune in Kauai, and leads us to the powerful waves of the North Shore of Oahu. Pancho and his longtime friend Nelly share heartfelt stories from their 30-year bond, reflecting on the deep sense of Ohana (family) that has shaped their lives. From personal relationships built through surfing to the full-circle moments of living in the same places at different times, this episode is a beautiful tribute to friendship, family, and the incredible journey of a surfing legend.
Experience the magnetic pull of the North Shore through Pancho's eyes, as he takes us back to his early days of surfing amidst Oahu's green valleys and awe-inspiring waves. Hear about the legendary moments that defined his youth, like Michael Ho’s iconic Pipeline Masters win that inspired him to push his limits. This narrative captures the essence of surfing culture and community on the North Shore, highlighting its blend of challenge, respect, and camaraderie. Learn how Pancho secured his first sponsorship with Billabong at just 13 and how surfing became a sanctuary from the chaos of home life, fueling his passion and commitment to the sport.
Discover the personal stories that shaped Pancho’s career and life beyond professional surfing. Auntie Karen, a beloved figure in the North Shore community, played a pivotal role in supporting young surfers, and her influence is warmly remembered. Pancho shares his awe-inspiring experiences with big wave surfing, the evolution of the Island Days brand, and the delicate balance between career ambitions and personal integrity. From thrilling competitions to family life and the constant pursuit of self-improvement, this episode is a testament to the ever-evolving journey of a surfer dedicated to his craft and the bonds that matter most. -
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