Episódios
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So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.
Guest links:
Shauna’s Instagram
Reference links:
Foxy Holds
Women’s Climbing Symposium
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2;23 - Running climbing clinics
6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber
9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics
14:39 - How she started climbing + competing
17:59 - Team GB then vs now
19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game
28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals
34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing
37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience
43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"
48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?
50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"
53:28 - Best comp memories
58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant
1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise?
1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?
1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??
1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending
1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?
1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?
1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna
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Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What’s crazy is that he didn’t start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we’ll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous climbers that he doesn’t know because he can’t “watch” climbing content.
Guest links:
Chaz’s Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:58 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2;27 - Intro/healing from surgery
7:49 - Chaz's impairment and how he started climbing
13:16 - Losing sight later in life
26:16 - Lead belaying blind
36:21 - Visually impaired climbing without a caller
38:07 - First time competition climbing...getting dumped...bro code broken?!
43:25 - Climbing + calling with Alannah Yip
46:37 - Accidental run-ins with the most famous comp climbers
52:38 - Lack of accessibility with climbing content
57:17 - Feeling unsafe on the wall
1:03:24 - Hiding his disability
1:07:37 - 2028 Paralympics
1:14:54 - Climbing blindfolded
1:18:02 - Me complaining about outdoor climbing + why he loves outdoor climbing
1:23:42 - Playing blind hockey
1:25:59 - More of me complaining about outdoor climbing + what is real climbing
1:28:57 - Blind ice climbing
1:31:12 - Being an inspiration for his son
1:33:47 - Blind hockey show and tell
1:41:46 - IG Q: How long does it take to get in sync with your caller?
1:42:54 - IG Q: Does speed climbing work well for blind people?
1:49:26 - DISCORD Q: Would paraclimbers want to compete in bouldering?
1:55:25 - Words of wisdom + where to find Chaz
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Estão a faltar episódios?
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Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.
Guest links:
Tijl’s Instagram
Reference links:
Info on elections and candidates
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history
5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team
10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works
15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics
18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC
24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education
33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups
38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups
41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation
48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games
50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?
56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?
1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl
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Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it’s like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.
Guest links:
Gregor’s Instagram
Reference links:
Gregor’s hold brand
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:08 - Spray wall noob questions
5:34 - Feeling competitive against his brother
10:45 - Why Slovenia is so dominant at climbing
17:13 - Slovenian team training and funding
19:36 - Slovenian young guns to watch out for
21:21 - Career highlights and traveling
25:35 - Being a picky eater on the road
27:57 - Competing with migraines
30:55 - Making the decision to retire
37:52 - How to be okay with "getting weaker"
42:14 - Setting vs competing
45:43 - IFSC setting aspirations
47:55 - What is hold shaping
52:52 - Do we really need more holds?
55:40 - IG Q: what's your creative process for designing a new hold?
1:02:23 - Hot takes on hold shaping and no tex
1:06:30 - Discord Q: How do you see World Cup routesetting changing in the next 10 years?
1:10:18 - DISCORD Q: Does hold shaping inspire your setting more or vice versa?
1:11:41 - DISCORD Q: What's it like climbing with Janja?
1:19:09 - Matt Groom trolling
1:20:44 - Final thoughts and where to find Gregor
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Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.
Guest links:
Anna’s Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
3:50 - Starting climbing at 3!
8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time
12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting
14:42 - Big performance boost in 2024
17:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders
22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit
25:09 - German national team
30:04 - German military sponsorship
34:04 - 2025 season
36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 2028
39:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing!
42:23 - Outdoor projects
43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete?
49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength
50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket?
51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal
52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement
57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna
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Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.
Guest links:
Rodrigo’s Instagram
Reference links:
Brazilian Hold Brand - Crux
Night Moves - Outdoor Brazilian Climbing
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!
7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury
10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure
13:57 - Living in Australia
16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace
21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America
25:31 - Brazil climber funding
30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil
36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC
39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber
48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid
51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips
56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?
1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?
1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo
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Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.
Guest links:
“Another Setting Podcast”
Niki’s Youtube
Jake’s Youtube
Niki’s Instagram
Jake’s Instagram
Reference links:
The hold that doesn’t need to exist
Routesetting workshops through Frankenjura Academy
Dockmasters 2025 - January
Studiobloc masters 2025 - March
Quarryman
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:29 - Stretching!
5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting
10:23 - Settings trends in each country
15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms
24:54 - Lack of style in world cups
32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall
42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats
48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy
52:58 - How will setting innovate?
57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!
1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay
1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast
1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms?
1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move?
1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes?
1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake
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Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.
Guest links:
Website
Instagram
Reference links:
Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers
Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine
Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMed
David Barrans IFSC History
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:17 - Holidays
4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT
11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time
19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?
26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves
36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!
40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs
51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age
1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences
1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers
1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury
1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?
1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?
1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution
1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy
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"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement.
Guest links:
Instagram
Tiktok
Reference links:
Anime Recommendation
K-drama Recommendation
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!!
2:06 - Post-season break
4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching
9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family
12:24 - Birth order stereotypes
15:16 - Shingles in Paris
19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun
21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis
27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics
36:12 - Being emotional on camera
38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season
40:17 - Making lead climbing gains
45:18 - Winning her first WC medal
51:24 - Competition schedule preference
54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans
57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps
59:09- Weeb/koreaboo?
1:03:01 - Discord Q: Could you imagine doing a Swiss bouldering comp next year?
1:04:47 - Discord Q: Do you have any interesting experiences in Japan?
1:06:30 - Discord Q: Are Australian gyms too focused on commercial climbing?
1:09:49 - Traveling with her sister
1:11:53 - Where to find Oce
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Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.
There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Email
Reference links:
Wedge Climbing
Janja Unfiltered Period Talk
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery
5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching
10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA
13:18 - How to get into coaching now
18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies
25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics
34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 2024
37:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest
39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach
40:56 - How GB training camps work
44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles
53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB
1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community
1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching
1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit
1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management
1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money
1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics"
1:26:45 - Tom's future
1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference?
1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach?
1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom
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Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
Weight Vest Video
Training App
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC
6:05 - Climbing + Competing start
7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent
10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?
15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick
19:55 - Slab is the enemy
22:10 - Being a short climber
26:08 - Training schedule
30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation
31:42 - Swiss athlete funding
35:23 - Money and YouTube
41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube
43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?
48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders
54:47 - Bulking & cutting?
1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene
1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai
1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?!
1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s
1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall
1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name
1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTuber?
1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya
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Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Stanley’s Instagram
Zul’s Instagram
Reference links:
Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023
Appeal Form
Stickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023
Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics
7:31 - Their IFSC Roles
12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge?
20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge
23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level
26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches
31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City
38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE
49:19 - The appeals process
53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches
1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards
1:14:06 - Fixing the weather
1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony
1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed?
1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories
1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IFSC
1:42:25 - Discord Q: How different are WCs based on who's organizing them
1:52:11 - Discord Q: Should corporations host world cups instead of national federations?
1:54:20 - Final thoughts, where to find Stanley & Zul
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Jesse is a boulder + lead climber (mostly lead climber) from the USA who is fresh from the Olympics! In this episode, he walks us through his entire Olympics experience, from training through his first ever finger injury, to balancing training with his engineering job, to meeting other athletes in the Olympic village.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Protect Our Winters
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Post-Olympics travels
7:04 - Climbing and competing start
9:41 - Youth training + competition
12:39 - Wanting to work as an engineer
17:55 - Only getting 1 shot on a World Cup lead route
20:52 - Slipping on the Olympics semis lead route
23:12 - Boulder mindset as a lead climber
26:11 - Olympics Combined format strategy
29:42 - Finger injury leading up to the Olympics
35:34 - Olympics training with a hurt finger
42:41 - Olympics village experience - feeling like a real athlete
47:17 - Dealing with post-Olympic blues
51:22 - Goals post-Olympics
52:55 - LA 2028 plans
58:52 - Protect our Winters work
1:04:35 - Discord Q: Why does it seem like you're friends with every climber on the circuit?! (And a discussion on competitiveness)
1:10:03 - Discord Q: Professional and climbing career intersection?
1:12:35 - Final thoughts: Voting and memes, where to find Jesse
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Olga is an official IFSC routesetter, and she recently came back from Paris, where she helped set the Olympic boulder rounds. In this episode, we'll learn about what it takes to become an IFSC setter, what it was like setting at the Olympics and trying to make the rounds fair, and how she balances setting, training, and traveling all while being a single mother.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Boulder + Lead routesetting guidelines and point distribution goals
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Break after Paris
2:35 - Climbing since childhood and being a team kid
5:36 - Almost an Olympic snowboarder...
7:28 - First time routesetting...was at an international comp
16:26 - Becoming an IFSC routesetter
20:09 - Setting for boulder vs lead
21:57 - Dealing with the boulder setting guidelines
26:06 - Trying to balance boulder vs lead difficulty at the Olympics
35:36 - Height and route setting - The Ai Mori problem
39:38 - Setting for men vs women
42:30 - Setting for future Olympics?
46:54 - Raising 2 little climbers
48:26 - Competing again after giving birth
53:21 - Hospitalizations in Budapest and Paris
55:54 - Balancing training, traveling, motherhood
57:47 - Non-climbing activities and snowboarding
1:02:08 - Discord Q: How do you deal with negative setting comments?
1:07:31 - Discord Q: Should the 2 zone format stay or go?
1:10:15 - Discord Q: How do you improve your route setting skills?
1:12:59 - Discord Q: Unique challenges you face being a setter and mother
1:15:55 - Where to find Olga
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I know Allen from our climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulderer for a brand new IFSC federation, Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it’s like competing on the world cup circuit as an “average” climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full time engineering job. We’ll also hear about what it’s like as a NEW competitor competing in Innsbruck including the afterparties, and all about the Guam climbing scene.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Climbing Gems Bag
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Our climbing sesh
2:57 - Starting climbing at 23 years old
6:59 - Why he started comp climbing at 29 years old
11:15 - Wanting to bring climbing back to Guam
19:01 - Being a weekend warrior
24:14 - Current training + work balance
29:43 - Never having a personal coach
32:27 - First World Cup experience in Innsbruck
38:31 - The difficulty going to a WC alone
45:23 - What people do in ISO for 8 hours
51:09 - Thoughts while taking on his first WC Boulder
54:07 - Least favorite comp moment
57:02 - Innsbruck afterparty
59:37 - Favorite comp moment
1:05:40 - Climbing Gems chalk bag
1:10:13 - Where is Guam
1:13:02 - Guam climbing scene
1:23:53 - Discord Q: What made you decide to participate in world cups as an average climber?
1:30:15 - Discord Q: Are you going to all future bouldering WCs?
1:35:24 - Final thoughts/where to find Allen
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Madison is a boulderer for Team Canada and you may have seen her Youtube videos with her husband Zach on their channel, Richardsons Climbing. In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team faces such as not having a head coach, her “lose” streak when it comes to Canadian nationals, Youtube and deleting social media, and we’ll get her take on getting married young and relationships among climbers.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
Ditching Social Media Blog Post
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - The never-ending 2024 season
6:11 - Climbing + competing start
7:53 - Losing interest in lead climbing
16:37 - Current training program
19:43 - Moving to Germany and then back to Canada
26:42 - Canada's funding struggle/lack of coaching
33:31 - Canadian geographical difficulties
37:26 - Discord Q: What obstacles will Canadian climbers need to overcome with Alannah and Sean retiring?
39:32 - Comparison, competitive mindset, and the nationals curse
44:00 - Deleting all social media
49:31 - Social media and sponsorships
55:11 - Making the exception for Youtube
1:02:26 - Getting married young to another climber
1:08:06 - Siblings or dating?!
1:10:30 - Take on relationships between World Cup climbers
1:14:39 - Competitiveness within the relationship
1:21:40 - Relationship with Alannah Yip
1:24:36 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the current field of comp climbing women compared to other nations?
1:27:28 - Discord Q: Would there be a benefit to a more dedicated training center in Canada?
1:30:09 - Final thoughts + where to find Madison
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Sebastian is a German paraclimber. He is also the chair of the paraclimbing commission, and he worked on filing the application to get climbing into the Paralympics for LA 2028, which only recently got approved! In this episode, we'll learn about his journey accepting that his disease would affect his body and climbing forever, what the process was like for getting climbing into the Paralympics, the drama behind the paraclimbing classification process, and we talk about his harrowing 1000km journey to the Innsbruck world cup on just a solar hand bike.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
IFSC Classification Information
FAQ Video on the bike
Short teaser about the handbike
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Getting into climbing/paraclimbing
9:43 - Learning to live with ankylosing spondylitis
23:58 - Applying for paraclimbing to become a Paralympic sport
35:25 - Onsighting the Paralympic application and beating out surfing
39:53 - What sport classes will be in the Paralympics
44:51 - Requirements paraclimbing must fulfill to participate in the Olympics
49:55 - Classification drama
58:07 - How classification works
1:05:15 - The difficult job of classifiers: fluctuating impairments
1:09:25 - Funding his climbing
1:13:07 - And the solar hand bike was born
1:28:50 - Proudest outdoor climbing achievement
1:33:00 - Closing thoughts/where to find Sebastian
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Noah is the Assistant National Belay Coordinator of USA Climbing and has volunteer belayed at events nationally and internationally at IFSC youth worlds in 2022. In this episode, we'll learn about how to get into volunteer belaying, some interesting tidbits on belay devices and catching falls that you may not have thought about before, what the differences are belaying different paraclimbers, and some bad falls that he has had to witness.
NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing
Guest links:
Instagram
USA Belay Instagram
Reference links:
First draw falls at USA Team Trails
Belay shoe clip incident mentioned from Discord
Leg caught in rope Youth Worlds
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
To help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Getting into climbing and belaying
8:43 - Any certifications needed to volunteer belay?
14:53 - Belay devices
21:01 - Climbers falling + getting lowered at the same time
23:34 - Do you get paid to belay?
25:58 - Belayer prep for a comp
37:03 - Do athletes ever get to choose their belayer?
48:29 - NO belay glasses?!
51:49 - Differences between youth, elite, para
1:00:28 - Tandem belaying in paraclimbing
1:03:01 - Nervousness while belaying
59:22 - Team boulder arena com
1:08:46 - Climber interactions
1:11:11 - Bad falls during comps
1:17:06 - How to become an IFSC belayer
1:21:13 - Discord Q: Common bad practices belayers need to stop doing
1:26:52 - Discord Q: Have you ever had to remove a volunteer belayer?
1:29:54 - Discord Q: Have peopled ever submitted appeals for being shortroped?
1:31:27 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the double Fisherman or Yosemite tuck?
1:33:20 - Closing thoughts/where to find Noah
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Ross is a boulder and lead climber on Team USA and you may be familiar with his Youtube channel where he documents his climbing adventures and shares coaching tips. In this episode, we'll learn about his bikepacking adventure that he skipped the first half of the 2024 world cup season for, hear about his struggle trying to balance competitions with his desire to travel and all his other hobbies, the importance of mindset and meditation, and if you're a USA bay area gym climber, maybe close your ears when he starts trashing the bay area gym scene. This episode is full of training and mindset tips!
NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Mind to Motion Clinics
Reference links:
How to Train/Stay Fit While Traveling
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
To help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/Going over my experience competing in Vail
3:35 - Absolutely TRASHING California Bay Area gyms
11:38 - Why Ross didn't attend the first few 2024 world cups
13:15 - Insane bikepacking adventure
20:16 - What makes going to a World Cup worth it
25:10 - How Ross got into climbing
34:52 - Class5 Climbing Team
42:58 - The importance of who you climb with
44:58 - Struggle balancing travel desires + competition
49:16 - Hometown advantage makes a BIG difference
55:12 - Climbing training tip: strength training staircase
59:22 - Team boulder arena comp
1:04:48 - Mindset: How to turn around negative thoughts
1:08:51 - Fixing his SLC finals mindset
1:15:39 - Meditation for climbing
1:22:43 - "Being comfortable with the uncomfortable"
1:29:40 - Balancing other sports with climbing
1:40:16 - Using your non-dominant hand
1:45:17 - Making time for Youtube
1:50:05 - Proudest moment as a coach
1:55:42 - Discord Q: How to use skincare products for comp climbing?
2:00:27 - Discord Q: How to incorporate outdoor climbing into training? Any projects?
2:07:51 - Discord Q: Favorite non-US teams to train with
2:11:30 - Discord Q: Is the USA team dynamic more competitive or supportive?
2:15:07 - Leave a comment with more questions if you want a pt 2/Where to find Ross
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Erin is a boulder and lead climber from team GB who has been having a stellar 2024 season so far, making finals for boulder in Keqiao, lead in Wujiang, and getting bronze in Shanghai OQS! In this episode, we’ll get some insight into how she seemed to rise out of nowhere, her brutal off-season training, we’ll learn a bit about team GB, and stay for the end to hear about where the Erin McBeast nickname came from.
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Keqiao Boulder Finals Difficult Paddle
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/Rest after Shanghai OQS
2:52 - Starting climbing + skateboarding
9;12 - Her dad’s gymnastics/climbing background
11:29 - Jumping without bending your knees
13:26 - Climbing preferences, strengths, weaknesses
15:53 - Traveling for climbing experience
17:36 - Team GB training process
21:48 - Finding incredible form this season
26:25 - Taking on a less serious mindset
34:06 - Training goal setting
35:41 - Difficulty maintaining friendships through training
39:45 - Competing against your idols
42:43 - GB Climbing Funding
44:59 - Need for sponsorship
46:33 - Handling the quick OQS -> Olympics turnaround time
49:28 - Future climbing goals
50:55 - Planetology interests
53:20 - Living in Malaysia
56:11 - Erin McBeast origin story
57:29 - ISO activities
59:28 - Discord Q: Did you ever had doubts in wanting to become a pro climber?
1:02:30 - Discord Q: Training at home vs abroad
1:03:59 - Discord Q: Do you do any other sports? Is cross-training beneficial?
1:06:03 - Where to find Erin
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