Episodes

  • Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more!

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    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Uncut Video!

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/davis-ngo

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:40) – Photo collages

    (00:03:36) – Bishop

    (00:06:21) – My introduction to dr.climb

    (00:07:52) – Growing up

    (00:12:11) – Getting into climbing

    (00:14:01) – Becoming a Physical Therapist

    (00:16:47) – Graduating during covid

    (00:18:48) – Blowing up on Instagram

    (00:22:24) – 69k

    (00:23:51) – Playing the game

    (00:32:09) – Who deserves to get paid in climbing?

    (00:44:42) – The progression of climbing

    (00:49:11) – Davis’ career

    (00:51:49) – Overwhelmed

    (00:54:15) – Self-esteem and social media

    (01:03:04) – Doing what you love

    (01:06:15) – Inclusion and giving back

    (01:09:26) – ‘Haroun’ as his first V11

    (01:12:41) – A year of injuries

    (01:18:01) – What changed after his back injury

    (01:23:49) – Backing off sketchy topouts

    (01:26:34) – “I just f*cking love it.”

    (01:35:25) – Overcoming fear after his back injury

    (01:41:54) – Trying highballs again

    (01:46:13) – Internet break

    (01:47:34) – SAMI sponsorship

    (01:52:03) – Creating a bouldering competition in Bishop

    (01:58:49) – How to support Davis

    (02:01:47) – Name suggestions

    (02:02:55) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

  • Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!

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    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!

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    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfi

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:28) – Young Stefano

    (00:08:18) – Humor and fun

    (00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing

    (00:14:20) – The whole process

    (00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence’ 9c

    (00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible

    (00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence’

    (00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence’ and ‘Excalibur’ 9b+

    (00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence’

    (00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance

    (00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur’ and ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A

    (00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur’ with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi

    (01:02:14) – The sword earring

    (01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur’ got its name

    (01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble’ 8c+/9a

    (01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history

    (01:14:48) – Stefano’s climbing heroes

    (01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil’ 9a+

    (01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength

    (01:22:52) – Sara’s health challenges

    (01:29:29) – Supporting one another

    (01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

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  • Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.

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    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video!

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmerman

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:38) – Daddy style

    (00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley

    (00:12:23) – The recipe for success

    (00:14:32) – How I related to the book

    (00:19:03) – Graham’s injury in New Zealand

    (00:21:54) – The Burger King story

    (00:24:04) – Falling for mountains

    (00:30:24) – The mystery of passion

    (00:32:07) – Mark Allen

    (00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard?

    (00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents

    (00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places

    (00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan

    (00:57:48) – Shannon

    (01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose

    (01:08:30) – Getting engaged

    (01:16:13) – Loss and risk

    (01:25:58) – K2 and climate

    (01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy

    (01:43:15) – Voting

    (01:50:40) – Energy and water

    (01:51:39) – POW

    (01:52:29) – Don’t stop climbing

    (01:54:11) – Graham’s book and EXTRA teaser

  • Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more!

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    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Uncut Video!

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    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

    Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-grupper

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:44) – Infusions for Ulcerative Colitis

    (00:06:40) – Jesse’s nomadic lifestyle

    (00:08:26) – Training trips

    (00:18:30) – Almost quitting competitions

    (00:23:05) – Getting bullied for climbing as a kid

    (00:27:45) – Climbing as an art form

    (00:30:12) – Asking yourself questions

    (00:38:05) – Optimistic Training

    (00:45:05) – Pessimism is lazy

    (00:47:54) – Frustration

    (00:50:58) – Support

    (00:53:16) – Each of us is a body of water

    (00:57:20) – Was Jesse a natural at climbing?

    (01:00:07) – Turning around his bouldering

    (01:04:44) – Strategy for the Olympics

    (01:07:47) – Training with circuits

    (01:13:40) – Balance

    (01:21:12) – Soft robotics

    (01:30:48) – “Take it easy, but take it.”

    (01:32:17) – What Jesse wishes we thought more about

    (01:35:20) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

  • Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more!

    Will’s Original Episode:

    EP 166: Will Bosi

  • Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!

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    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!

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    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    Check out KAYA!

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    Check out Crimpd!

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    Or download the Crimpd app for free!

    Check out Tindeq!

    tindeq.com

    Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:02:28) – Topics covered

    (00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio

    (00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics

    (00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries

    (00:16:21) – Stress shielding

    (00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries

    (00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries

    (00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos

    (00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position

    (00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers

    (00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception

    (00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises

    (00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis

    (00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis

    (00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age

    (01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important

    (01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints

    (01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?

    (01:09:18) – Playing the long game

    (01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli

    (01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises

    (01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow

    (01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow

    (01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions

    (01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries

    (01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)

    (01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues

    (01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis

    (01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured

    (01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

  • Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!

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    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

    Check out PhysiVantage!

    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

    Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

    Check out Chalk Cartel!

    chalkcartel.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    Check out Crimpd!

    crimpd.com

    Or download the Crimpd app for free!

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau

    (00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip

    (00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych

    (00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard

    (00:15:22) – Sleep

    (00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson

    (00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?

    (00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles

    (00:25:22) – 9-week cycles

    (00:27:34) – Deloads

    (00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body

    (00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead

    (00:36:46) – Stacking training programs

    (00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”

    (00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor

    (00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing

    (00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips

    (00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12

    (00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15

    (00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage

    (01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica

    (01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?

    (01:14:14) – Training on the replica

    (01:22:21) – How to train on your project

    (01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?

    (01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip

    (01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles

    (01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?

    (01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?

    (01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17

    (01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit

    (01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar

    (01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps

    (01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit

    (01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders

    (01:59:08) – Imposing demands

    (02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

  • Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more!

    Donate to C4C:

    climbing4change.org

    Kai’s Original Episode:

    EP 55: Kai Lightner

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Kai’s upcoming trip and project

    (00:03:41) – Self-preservation

    (00:05:11) – The emotional rollercoaster of ‘Life of Villains’ 5.14d/9a

    (00:07:57) – How it felt to send ‘LOV’ in his current body

    (00:13:40) – Not rushing the process

    (00:16:50) – Expanding his technical arsenal

    (00:18:15) – Bad weather, broken holds, and the send

    (00:23:07) – His trip to Jamaica

    (00:27:00) – Building a climbing gym in the National Training Center

    (00:28:42) – Bolting his first route

    (00:33:31) – The food

    (00:35:34) – What’s going on with C4C

    (00:37:49) – Paying it forward

    (00:41:35) – How to support C4C

    (00:45:47) – Testifying in Washington to get climbing gyms recognized as sports facilities

    (00:54:02) – Bouldering with Drew Ruana, and negative temperatures

  • Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Check out KAYA!

    kayaclimb.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

    Check out Mad Rock!

    madrock.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!

    Check out Tindeq!

    tindeq.com

    Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

    Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

    rhinoskinsolutions.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoni

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones

    (00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14

    (00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a

    (00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects

    (00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA

    (00:13:30) – Adrian’s lifestyle

    (00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber

    (00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing

    (00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap

    (00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh

    (00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists

    (00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context

    (00:40:44) – Will’s impressive belay season

    (00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending

    (00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken’

    (00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable

    (00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress

    (01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey

    (01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b

    (01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board

    (01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming

    (01:21:30) – More ‘Badman’ beta

    (01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes

    (01:29:09) – Beta depends on context

    (01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’

    (02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents

    (02:10:06) – Street credit

    (02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-

    (02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders

    (02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration

    (02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone

    (02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person

    (02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is

    (02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do

    (02:57:57) – ‘Freerider’ in a day

    (03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

  • Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more!

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    Use code "60nugget" at checkout for 60% off plus 20% off your next two months!

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    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anak-verhoeven

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:03:14) – Living in a small motorhome with her parents on long trips

    (00:06:40) – Anak’s 9a and harder resume, and her level of fame in Belgium

    (00:10:03) – How Anak makes a living

    (00:13:51) – The advantages of doing everything herself

    (00:15:48) – How her mom and dad became her coach and trainer

    (00:17:58) – Practicing her autograph as a kid

    (00:20:13) – Competing in her first international competition

    (00:22:34) – Struggling in early competitions, and navigating disappointment

    (00:25:54) – Setting the bar high

    (00:27:47) – Family meetings

    (00:31:24) – Rest days, exercises, and hair washing

    (00:37:04) – Leading her first route at age 4

    (00:41:08) – Getting injured and falling in love with climbing

    (00:44:19) – The variety within climbing

    (00:50:50) – Why Anak quit competitions

    (00:56:51) – Anak’s strange arm injury

    (01:06:46) – Working on her shoulder mobility

    (01:10:21) – Keeping her arm injury a secret

    (01:14:08) – Current status of her arm

    (01:17:05) – Understanding what folks with chronic illness go through

    (01:20:59) – What does Anak miss the most about competitions?

    (01:25:46) – Longer trips, and the stress of competitions

    (01:30:43) – Winning her first World Cup in Arco

    (01:34:05) – The satisfaction of sending Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda

    (01:42:15) – Getting fresh air during competitions

    (01:44:59) – Anak’s training shed

    (01:47:57) – Training on the same routes for 3 years, and motivation vs. fancy facilities

    (01:53:01) – Anak’s strategy for onsighting comp routes

    (01:57:11) – Making up rules at the gym

    (02:01:36) – How Anak built her endurance

    (02:07:15) – Mental endurance

    (02:11:27) – 9b and trad climbing goals for 2024

    (02:14:43) – Why she is open about her faith

    (02:22:33) – How do climbers react to her faith?

    (02:29:46) – The pressure I felt as a kid to spread faith, and moving away from religion

    (02:33:09) – How Anak thinks about sharing her faith, and her lack of judgment toward other people

    (02:34:57) – Choosing her faith for herself

    (02:37:57) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

  • Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Check out PhysiVantage!

    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

    Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

    Check out KAYA!

    kayaclimb.com

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    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever

    (00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.

    (00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing

    (00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects

    (00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup

    (00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies

    (00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?

    (00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi

    (00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style

    (00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’

    (00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’

    (00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’

    (00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?

    (00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?

    (00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’

    (00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger

    (00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?

    (00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c

    (01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?

    (01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes

    (01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’

    (01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta

    (01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’

    (01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’

    (01:18:28) – Speed training

    (01:20:02) – Recovery

    (01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it

    (01:25:48) – Greedy

    (01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back

    (01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by

    (01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

  • Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!

    Jon’s Original Episode:

    EP 50: Jon Cardwell

    References:

    Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+

    EP 169: Scott Johnston

    Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)

    (00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success

    (00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it

    (00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’

    (00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’

    (00:35:53) – Constantly learning

    (00:40:42) – More about his training

    (00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum

    (00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension

    (00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation

    (00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing

    (00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?

    (01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM

    (01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?

    (01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?

    (01:07:12) – Wrap up

  • Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

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    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returns

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:04:03) – The donut festival

    (00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall

    (00:07:46) – Mirrored boards

    (00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts

    (00:14:21) – Outline of topics

    (00:16:17) – Finger training topics

    (00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering

    (00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination

    (00:49:23) – Summary of our session

    (00:50:21) – When to end a session

    (00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools

    (00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume

    (00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall

    (01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools

    (01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)

    (01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind

    (01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco

    (01:17:25) – Should we climb less?

    (01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging

    (01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume

    (01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco

    (01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish

    (01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?

    (01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?

    (01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries

    (01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing

    (01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity

    (01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?

    (02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?

    (02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?

    (02:07:46) – Takeaways

    (02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits

    (02:14:41) – The future of finger training

    (02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training

    (02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?

    (02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways

    (02:37:05) – Wrap up

  • James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

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    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/james-pearson

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:35) – Getting settled

    (00:03:13) – Why I feel like I know James

    (00:05:33) – Introducing the Redemption Story

    (00:08:10) – Internet backlash

    (00:10:05) – Coming full circle

    (00:13:33) – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage’

    (00:17:10) – The full story

    (00:28:47) – Compassion for himself

    (00:30:53) – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing

    (00:36:05) – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey

    (00:41:18) – Learning how to train

    (00:46:33) – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months

    (00:52:32) – Fun and performance

    (00:53:23) – E grades

    (00:56:16) – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again

    (00:59:43) – Returning to ‘Rhapsody’

    (01:02:10) – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure

    (01:08:50) – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro

    (01:17:10) – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody’

    (01:24:53) – Searching for his hardest trad route

    (01:25:59) – Making the Redemption film

    (01:29:21) – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond

    (01:35:47) – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage’

    (01:37:15) – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD

    (01:38:58) – Presenting E12 again 15 years later

    (01:45:04) – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt’s thoughts about Walk of Life

    (01:49:02) – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage’

    (02:00:53) – Finding ‘Bon Voyage’

    (02:08:08) – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage’?

    (02:20:23) – Being more scientific about grades

    (02:24:54) – Why give ‘Bon Voyage’ an E grade?

    (02:38:44) – Becoming a dad

    (02:47:47) – What kids taught him

    (02:53:57) – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations

    (02:58:17) – Tips for climbers with kids

    (03:03:36) – James’ advice for his younger self

    (03:11:15) – Climbing matters

    (03:16:45) – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro’s mom

    (03:23:36) – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage’, and Caro’s journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy

  • Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutou

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training

    (00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests

    (00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology

    (00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing

    (00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training

    (00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach

    (00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?

    (00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing

    (00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music

    (00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates

    (00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris

    (00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?

    (00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture

    (00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing

    (01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions

    (01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy

    (01:10:15) – Meditation and breath

    (01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS

    (01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup

    (01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing

    (01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?

    (01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers

    (01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson

    (01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?

    (01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions

    (01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training

    (01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention

    (01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game

    (01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

  • Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

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    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-matt

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro/Ads

    (00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones

    (00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for

    (00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced

    (00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps

    (00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)

    (00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing

    --BEGINNER STARTS HERE--

    (00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview

    (00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence

    (00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good

    (00:27:35) – The Hammer

    (00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail

    (00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer

    (00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong

    (00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset

    (00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)

    (00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing

    (00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners

    (00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit

    (00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary

    (00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention

    (00:53:41) – Checking your ego

    (00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing

    --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--

    (00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview

    (00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades

    (01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”

    (01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber

    (01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years

    (01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story

    (01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well

    (01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing

    (01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working

    (01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good

    (01:18:51) – Chunking

    (01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta

    (01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials

    (01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line

    (01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill

    (01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving

    (01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber

    (01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training

    (01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers

    (01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy

    (01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance

    (01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong

    (01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first

    (01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves

    (02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray

    (02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position

    (02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train

    (02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun

    --ADVANCED STARTS HERE--

    (02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview

    (02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic

    (02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong

    (02:23:57) – Occupying the position

    (02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation

    (02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta

    (02:37:57) – The Golfer study

    (02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics

    (02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete

    (02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt

    (02:51:23) – Misusing tools from the pros

    (02:56:50) – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser

  • Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned to climbing and sent his first V10 and V11. We talked about his accident, getting a full knee replacement, how he made a full recovery, his incredible wife Katie, why he swims four times per week, treating yourself like you have the V17 gene, taking responsibility for your life, the interplay of luck and hard work, and much more.

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    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/travis-tameirao

    Nuggets:

    0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

    0:07:14 – Having a son at 19, semi-pro boxing and bartending to make ends meet, and getting into climbing

    0:13:31 – Maintaining his own identity once he became a dad

    0:15:40 – Getting obsessed with climbing, and being reckless out of ignorance

    0:24:51 – The full story of Travis’ accident on August 13th, 2018

    0:35:20 – Getting his knee reconstructed in December 2019, and losing his Tibial Plateau

    0:38:31 – The possibility of amputation, and choosing an experimental procedure

    0:44:18 – Living in constant pain, surgery as a trauma, and holding onto hope

    0:47:21 – Having a full knee replacement, and feeling like he was given a death sentence

    0:49:52 – The limitations of Western medicine

    0:51:55 – Waking up without pain

    0:53:56 – The gift of walking, and reclaiming his life

    0:56:55 – Working on regaining his range of motion, and reconnecting with climbing

    1:05:05 – Getting hurt again sport climbing in Rumney

    1:09:39 – Losing friends and community during his recovery, and proposing to his wife Katie

    1:17:40 – The first time he asked Katie out

    1:20:57 – Gratitude for Katie, and being with a partner through the hard times

    1:23:41 – Hiking around Mont Blanc on their honeymoon

    1:26:39 – Focusing on work while he was recovering, and appreciation for the support

    1:27:40 – Regaining his full range of motion, and climbing his first V10 outside

    1:31:42 – Mr. Miyagi and the pistol squat

    1:33:04 – Climbing his first V11, leaving areas better than you found them, and finding boulders in Rhode Island

    1:36:22 – “Don’t get injured”, learning how to fall, and being unsure of the takeaway

    1:38:33 – The guy in the wheelchair, and wondering if he is blowing his second chance

    1:43:01 – Choosing to live a rich and passionate life, the fountain of youth, and facing mortality

    1:48:10 – A backlog of games and books, and wanting to live forever

    1:54:19 – Accepting support from Katie, hard conversations, and the transition in their relationship after his recovery

    2:03:08 – Mothers and empty nests, Travis’ parents relationship, and the feeling of firsts

    2:07:45 – What climbing means to Travis now, and why Travis swims 4 days per week

    2:10:46 – Long-term climbing goals, and sponsoring himself

    2:14:43 – Growing up a block away from his wife, and all of the things climbing has brought him

    2:17:24 – Treating yourself like you have the V17 gene

    2:19:15 – How Travis made a full recovery when many others didn’t, drawing inspiration from anime, and being the main character in your own story

    2:26:43 – Taking the wheel, and advocating for yourself

    2:32:14 – Sharing his story, and being a resource

    2:36:46 – Kind words about the podcast

    2:39:58 – Luck and hard work

    2:42:26 – More kind words

    2:45:32 – Iontophoresis

    2:47:01 – Wrap up and Travis’ phone number

  • Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest competition she has ever done, how to use nerves to focus and thrive, training for Nationals, praising effort, her fueling strategy, gaining weight to be more powerful, Alex Johnson’s hype shirt, balancing training with fueling and mental health, choosing good over perfect, upcoming goals, and much more!

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    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanza-returns

    Nuggets:

    0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

    0:04:40 – Recovery from her foot surgery, and sweeping the National Championships in Boise Idaho

    0:07:05 – Trying a new approach with fueling and training

    0:08:17 – A message about Melina from Tyson Schoene

    0:09:55 – Why Nationals was the hardest competition Melina has ever done, and finding flow in the sport climbing final

    0:16:00 – Training primarily for bouldering, and proving to herself that she is a better climber than before

    0:21:39 – The limit is higher when you focus on getting stronger vs. lighter

    0:23:28 – The nerves and joy of competitions, and a weight lifted

    0:29:10 – Training for lead and bouldering at the same time, and her training phases before Nationals

    0:34:51 – How she won lead despite her lack of power endurance after getting covid, and the mental side of competition

    0:37:11 – Praising her effort more than her performance

    0:41:21 – Effort is trainable

    0:42:48 – How Melina’s fueling strategy has changed, eating more carbs on comp days, and Sour Patch Kids

    0:51:13 – Gaining weight to be more powerful

    0:54:06 – What Melina does when she has dark thoughts around eating, and how to know when you’re “overtraining”

    0:58:51 – Knowing when to take more rest vs. put your head down and do the work

    1:01:51 – Doing every part of your training for a reason

    1:06:30 – “You just have to go to win.”

    1:10:55 – Coming out last in finals, and pressure as a privilege

    1:13:46 – Alex Johnson’s shirt

    1:16:03 – Balancing training, fueling, and mental health, and choosing good over perfect

    1:19:01 – What Melina would tell others who struggle with eating disorders

    1:22:07 – The false promise of success, achieving your goals while being true to who you are, carrying guilt, and giving each other permission to be imperfect

    1:27:37 – Surrounding yourself with people who love you unconditionally

    1:29:55 – Melina’s goals

    1:33:11 – Melina’s thoughts on the Paris Olympics, and the 2028 Olympic games

    1:35:56 – Thanks to Melina for bringing us along on her journey

    1:37:16 – Check out this week’s Patreon bonus episode for more fun facts with Melina!

  • Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, the skills needed to climb cutting-edge cracks, why he is still working on improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, his most fun/rewarding/miserable/traumatic trips with Tom Randall, and much more!

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    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/pete-whittaker

    Nuggets:

    0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

    0:05:34 – Pete’s breakfast and voice

    0:06:29 – Pete and Tom’s current mission in Moab, and what makes that area so unique

    0:10:02 – Goals on trips, and working on ring locks as a weakness

    0:12:22 – How Pete and Tom ring lock differently

    0:14:57 – Pete’s book on crack climbing techniques

    0:15:56 – Trying Mason Earl’s route Stranger Than Fiction

    0:20:14 – Breakdown and progress on Stranger Than Fiction

    0:21:58 – Pete’s first visit to the Profile Wall in Norway to try Recovery Drink, and working his way through the established free routes

    0:27:54 – The style of climbing on the Profile Wall, and the skills needed to climb hard there

    0:30:08 – Placing 17 pieces of gear on the 100m Crown Royale 9a

    0:32:35 – Breakdown of Crown Royale 9a, and running it out on the send

    0:38:13 – Pete’s process on Crown, and projecting the top half as its own pitch

    0:40:42 – How Pete and Tom decide which projects to try together vs. individually

    0:43:19 – The most FUN trip with Tom (Century Crack trip)

    0:45:20 – The most MISERABLE trip with Tom (Bridge Boys)

    0:46:21 – The most TRAUMATIZING trip with Tom (Yosemite)

    0:49:09 – The most REWARDING trips with Tom (exploring the White Rim)

    0:50:27 – The Crucifix project

    0:53:26 – How Pete trained for Crown Royale 9a

    0:57:06 – Embracing the suck, why Pete is good at resting in stressful positions, and training stamina as a kid

    1:00:17 – Pete’s early climbing, venturing into more dangerous routes as a teenager, and doing the first ascent of an E9 at age 17 with his mom on belay

    1:06:12 – Why Pete loves offwidthing, and other styles of climbing that involve lots of suffering

    1:10:42 – How geeky is Pete about training?

    1:13:10 – Adding structure, and training with Lattice for Crown Royale

    1:14:51 – Shoulder conditioning for Crown, and what exercises he plans to continue doing

    1:17:51 – Keeping tabs on the world’s hardest trad routes, and Pete’s thoughts on trying Tribe

    1:20:09 – How Pete picks objectives and goals, and riding the waves

    1:23:07 – Pete’s recent trip to Yosemite with Mari

    1:25:37 – Using Darth Grader to suggest the grade of 9a for Crown Royale

    1:34:33 – How Pete’s experience with Crown Royale compared to Recovery Drink

    1:37:33 – Unclimbed lines on the Profile Wall, and where the name “Crown Royale” came from

    1:39:26 – Check out the Patron-only EXTRA with the Wide Boyz!

  • Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.

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    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returns

    Nuggets:

    0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

    0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel

    0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged

    0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 2017

    0:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea

    0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel

    0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show

    0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food

    0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals

    0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway

    0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite

    0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions

    0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite

    0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite

    0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals

    0:57:10 – Try hard

    0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)

    0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide

    1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower

    1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering

    1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing

    1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash

    1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan

    1:22:02 – Tough gainer

    1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?

    1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start

    1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt

    1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with

    1:32:47 – Wrap up