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In this episode, we take a look behind the scenes of one of the wine and spirits industry’s most important trade fairs: Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris. The Thieves speak with with Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Vinexposium, the company that runs the fair – and spoiler alert: Wine Paris and Vinexpo Paris are two names for the same show – Rodolphe explains why the trade fair has a dual name, and will discuss some of the issues that are most pertinent to the world of wine today, the challenges and opportunities, and the relevance of trade fairs in a digital world. We’ll also get a better understanding of how the trade fair operates and why it should matter to you, no matter what side of the wine trade you are on, should you chose to travel this coming February 12th-14th to the City of Lights (. . . fashion, love, fine wine & fine food).
Wine Paris brings wine and spirits producers together from around the world, with organizers anticipating an increase of 72% in international exhibitors and 50 countries represented. Floor space has been expanded by 25% to accommodate the 3,900 exhibitors, with also a significant increase for spirits, craft drinks, no/low, beer and cider producers. And you can count on 100% of France’s wine regions to be under one roof, as Vinexposium reports.
In addition, Wine Paris also promises to address some of the industry’s most challenging problems such as climate change, a shift in consumer demand and geo-political conflicts amidst economic and sales declines, through a series of masterclasses panels and conferences.
For more information, on how to combine Valentine's Day, Paris, and your career in wine, visit https://wineparis-vinexpo.com.
This episode was produced in partnership with Vinexposium. -
The Wine Thieves are back with part two of a series on the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi of Chianti Classico (or UGAs) the recently announced additional geographic units that will begin appearing on labels of the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione category as of this year. Joining us again are Caterina Mori, Director of Communications for the Chianti Classico Consorzio, and the "Map Man" Alessandro Masnaghetti who literally drew up the map of the 11 new UGS that we’ll be covering in deep detail in this episode. If you haven't already listened to part one, go back to the previous episode as it will be critical to your understanding of this instalment.
Geology, and the soils derived from these underlying rocks formed an important basis for Masnaghetti’s map-making work. To begin the episode, John and Sara provide a brief recap of Tuscan geology and terminology you'll encounter travelling through the 11 UGAs, along with what can be expected from the wines grown on each of the main "geological units", marine and continental, and the specific soil types that fall under each. Masgnaghetti discusses how the various soil types translate into to different organoleptic wine profiles in each UGA, from the macigno, pietraforte, albarese and Formazione di Sillano of the marine formations, to the continental units that include the gravelly-alluvial soils of San Casciano in the north and the lacustrine clay soils typical of the western part of the Castellina UGA.
The UGA tour proceeds clockwise, starting from San Casciano in the northwest corner of the Chianti Classico area, continuing through Greve, Montefiorale, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Valgliagli, and finally San Donato in Poggio.
Special thanks to our WineAlign colleague and Chianti Classico ambassador Michael Godel, who kindly chose a song to match the feel and vibe of each of the 11 UGAs for this episode. Acquire some bottles, hit play on the UGA playlist, and taste your way through this historic territory.
Michael Godel's Chianti Classico "UGA Soundtrack"1. San Casciano - Feeling Gravity's Pull, R.E.M.
2. Greve - Red Eyes, The War on Drugs
3. Lamole - Herbal Scent, Tom Browne
4. Montefioralle - More than a Feeling, Boston
5. Panzano - Fantasy, Earth, Wind & Fire
6. Radda - People Get Ready, Curtis Mayfield
7. Gaiole - Fresh, Kool & The Gang
8. Castelnuovo Berardenga - Into the Great Wide Open, Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers
9. Vagliagli – Gustosità, Nino Rapicavoli
10. Castellina - Ahead by a Century, The Tragically Hip
11. San Donato in Poggio - Compte à Rebour Adagio, Georges Delerue
This episode was produced thanks to a Campaign Financed According to EU Regulation No 1308/2013. -
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In part one of this two-part episode, the Thieves go behind the scene in Chianti Classico with Caterina Mori, director of Communication for the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and Alessandro Masnaghetti, aka Map Man Masnaghetti, to take a deep dive into the recently approved “added geographic units” of this important Tuscan region , which were officially signed into law this past July 2023. (Alessandro will be familiar to Wine Thieves listeners - he joined us for an episode devoted to the wines of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; see episode 22 from season 1). Mori and Masnaghetti share the philosophy behind the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi, or simply “UGAs” to English-speaking insiders, the geographic units that divide the rather large Chianti Classico denomination into 11 smaller sub-areas that sometimes, but not always, follow historical communal boundaries, and broadly group these sangiovese-based wines together into more coherent style categories. This is especially relevant given the significant variability of physical and human factors that shape and mould Chianti Classico into so many delicious expressions.
As a reminder, Masnaghetti is the director and editor of Enogea, an independent Italian wine newsletter founded in 1997 that continues the work of the late great Luigi Veronelli, a legendary Italian wine writer who launched the first independent Italian wine newsletter known as Ex Vinis back in the 1970s. Alessandro worked with Veronelli, and brought map-making skills to the table to add another dimension to the modern Italian wine narrative. Fast forward to 2023, and Masnaghetti has created dozens of detailed maps of wine regions, mostly around Italy but also a few outside, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Valpolicella and Amarone, Vino Nobile, and even Bordeaux. But his latest magnum opus, and the one most relevant to our two episodes, is the incredibly detailed Atlas of Chianti Classico.
The atlas and its detailed maps and background geological information (or as Masnaghetti puts it, “geo-viticultural” information that distills the aspects of geology most relevant to grapegrowing), was commissioned by the Chianti Classico Consorzio, with the main aim of establishing the boundaries for the 11 new UGAs. Masnaghetti’s work is an impressive tome that should be on every wine lover’s shelf, and indeed should be in your hands right now to follow along on these two episodes. You can get yourself a copy at enogea.it (https://www.enogea.it/en/product/chianti-classico-the-atlas/)., or in Canada via https://www.winoimport.com/ . The maps contained within the atlas show geology, topography, vineyard boundaries, estates, and much much more.
In the previous episode we spoke with Giovanni Manetti, current president of the Chianti Classico Consorzio and owner of the Fontodi estate in Panzano. Signore Manetti shared loads of valuable information with us on the history and the current status of Chianti Classico, and we touched upon the introduction of these UGAs and what it means to both producers and wine drinkers around the world. So be sure to have a listen to that episode, if you haven’t already, to set the stage for these next two episodes. Cin Cin!
This episode was produced thanks to a Campaign Financed According to EU Regulation No 1308/2013. -
The first of a three-part journey into Chianti Classico. in this episode we look at the past, present and future of the denominazione with our special guest, Giovanni Manetti, Chariman of the Chianti Classico Consorzio and proprietor of the venerated Fontodi estate in Panzano. This is Manetti’s second term as the Chairman , where he has been a driving force of innovation and evolution, helping to re-establish Chianti Classico as one of Italy’s, and the world’s, leading quality wine-producing regions. The creation of the Gran Selezione category at the top of the quality pyramid, as well the introduction of UGAs (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntivi), added geographic mentions within the greater Chianti Classico territory, are just two of the invigorating projects which Manetti has championed and pushed through.
The Thieves deliver the latest news regarding Gran Selezione regulations and the new UGAs, but focus first on the history of the region from Etruscan settlements in the 8th century BC, to the legend of the gallo nero, the mezzadria sharecropping system that shaped Chianti Classico as we know it today, Barone Ricasoli's 19th century 'recipe' for Chianti, the 1970s crisis (fiasco?), and the renaissance of quality wine. There is much to unpack in this multi-faceted region, so important and recognizable to wine lovers around the world.
A happy 307th birthday to Chianti Classico, an anniversary for which we give thanks to the Grand Duke of Tuscany and patron to the arts, Cosimo dei' Medici III, who famously demarcated the wine region of Chianti in 1716 and created the first legal appellation of origin for wine in the world. Tuscan aficionados won't want to miss this episode that reveals how Chianti Classico's past has set the stage for its modern renaissance.
This episode has been produced in partnership with the Chianti Classico Consorzio and financed according to EU regulation 1308/2013. -
The Thieves embark on a South African “wine safari” with Pieter Walser of Blank Bottle Wines based in Sommerset West near Stellenbosch, one of the most unusual and innovative wine businesses anywhere, and Peter-Allan Finlayson of Crystallum Wines and Gabrielskloof in the Bot River region. Finlayson is a third generation winemaker and the son of the man who pioneered Pinot Noir winemaking in the Hemel-en-Aarde region, Peter Finlayson, the first winemaker at Hamilton Russell and the founder of Bouchard Finlayson.
You’ll get a clear sense of the fun, irreverent, and innovative nature of the SA wine industry. There’s an entire generation currently scouring the Cape for interesting vineyards and old quirky varieties and crafting a range of exciting wines with little winemaking intervention. These mavericks are playing a vital role in keeping old vines in the ground and supporting small farmers, all the while breathing fresh life into this centuries-old industry and turning the establishment upside down. These radicals of the industry run parallel to the more storied, traditional wine farms of South Africa, some of which have been producing wine for over three centuries, creating one of the most dynamic wine scenes on the planet.
In the interview with Peter Allan and Pieter, John & Sara get to the heart of how this multi-faceted industry arose. They'll discuss the role of the KWV, the cooperative founded in 1918, which helped unite winegrowers during a challenging period, to its current state as a cooperative company structure. They'll discover how a kind of exploratory, guerilla-style winemaking took hold and why a good sub-section of the South African wine industry seems to be hell-bent on dispensing with so many of the wine world’s traditions. This spirit is exemplified by the Zoo Cru, a loose association of likeminded (similarly manic?) winemakers of which Peter-Allan Finlayson is a founding member,, as well as other “splinter” groups like the Swartland Revolution, who take fun and wine very seriously, but themselves, not so much.
And f you've ever thought about how to go about setting up a wine business, you’ll want to strap yourself in for this exploration of the wilder side of the South African wine industry.
This episode was produced in collaboration with Wines of South Africa. -
This episode takes a wide-ranging look at biodynamic agriculture, which, perhaps not so coincidentally, seems to be the foundational philosophy underlying a disproportionately large percentage of the world’s best wines. The Thieves speak with two prominent Californian practitioners of biodynamics to discuss several aspects of this philosophy-cum-practical manifesto, first developed by Austrian-born philosopher and social reformer Rudolf Steiner, who lived from 1861-1925.
Show guests Rodrigo Soto, Chilean-born viticulturist now general manager at Augustín Huneeus’s flagship Napa Valley estate, Quintessa, and John Hamel, the second generation at Hamel Family Wines across the Mayacamas Mountains in Sonoma discuss the practical, mystical and controversial aspects of biodynamic wine production . Both are fervent believers in the power of biodynamic agriculture, and above all, have an unshakeable faith in the power of nature to deliver something in the glass of greater interest than what humankind on its own could offer.
Listen on for a brief overview of biodynamics, how science is catching up to the sometimes fantastical claims, the value of certification, the dark side of Steiner's beliefs and finding balance in nature. -
Originally aired November 2022: The Thieves are back in Europe to explore the wealth of indigenous grape varieties and stunning stunning old vineyards found in Portugal. Exactly how this sliver of the Iberian peninsula has been able to safeguard traditions, vineyards and distinctive regional character is what Sara and John are out to learn in this special reissue episode.
They have a hunch that large-volume producers have a role to play, and invite three important guests to investigate: Martim Guedes, the Co-CEO of Aveleda (along with Antonio Guedes). Martim’s great-great grandfather Manoel Pedro Guedes founded Quinta da Aveleda in the Minho region 150 years ago, helping the wines of Vinho Verde achieve international recognition . The company has since expanded to the Douro, Bairrada and Algarve, and exports to more than 70 countries.
Luís Almada is an Executive Board Member of Casa Santos Lima, a family owned company that makes wine in Lisboa, Algarve, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and the Douro, exporting 90% of its total production to more than 50 countries on 5 continents. Casa Santos Lima is It is the largest single producer of Vinho Regional Lisboa (responsible for the production of more than 50% of all the certified wine in the Lisboa region) and DOC Alenquer.
Pedro da Fonseca is managing partner of Vicente Leite Faria in the Douro Valley, drawing on fruit from estate vineyards as well as hundreds of small growers that together account for over 500 hectares of vineyards. Born in Portugal but raised in Canada, Pedro studied at York University in Toronto before earning a Master’s degree from Harvard, and he's currently a PhD candidate at the London Metropolitan University. Pedro has a sincere love for wines of his mother country and their proliferation abroad.
We delve into topics such as the incentivization of small growers by large producers, land conservation, and the preservation and re-propagation of rare, indigenous grapes. Although other countries such as the Republic of Georgia, Greece, and Italy can also boast many indigenous grapes, Portugal claims the highest density, some 250 varieties across an area six times smaller than France (551,500 km² vs. 92,120 km²). But many are on the verge of extinction. We’ll find out what large wine companies are doing to help protect and preserve grape varieties that are at risk such as Azal, Codega do Larinho, Sousao, Tinta Grossa, and Jampal, among many others.
Climate change has also affected Portugal harder than many wine regions, pushing Portuguese growers to become global leaders in responding to the climate threat. You'll find out what environmental initiatives these leading brands have undertaken, and how have these practices have had an impact on the industry at large.
Join John and Sara for an invigorating discussion on the role of leading brands safeguarding land, grapes and traditions in Portugal.
Sponsored by ViniPortugal. -
We’re kicking off 2023 and season three of the podcast with a look at one of the hottest wine trends down under: cool and fresh red wines from Australia. Once famous, and still well-known for robust, full-bodied, sunshine-filled jammy reds, today there’s serious momentum gathering, and already flowing, for lighter styles of red, fresher, less oaky, with lower alcohol and higher drinkability. So, what is driving this trend? What should we be looking for, and where?
The Thieves look to cool geography, viticultural methods and changing trends for answers with their guests Mac Forbes and Sam Berketa. Mac Forbes established Mac Forbes Wines in 2004, with the aim of to better understanding and connecting with his native region. He credits the knowledge of the local Indigenous community who have lived and farmed this region for over 50,000 years as having helped him on his journey to become one of the most celebrated producers in the Yarra. Forbes specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay from vineyards across the Yarra Valley. Forbes also makes “village level” cuvées in the Burgundian fashion representing the various sub-regions of the Yarra, as well as the region-wide Yarra Valley offerings. The playground of exploration comes under the Experimental Batch range.
Sam Berketa is head winemaker at Alpha Box & Dice based in the McLaren Vale but has previously worked in the Yarra Valley, the Mornington Peninsula, Germany's Rheinhessen, in Barolo, Italy, as well as in Monterey in California applying his global knowledge to local production . Since its beginning in 2008, AB&D has become a champion of South Australia's alternative – particularly Mediterranean – varieties, exhibiting innovation at every step of the process by bending traditional winemaking norms.
Join John and Sara as they toast to the fresh, innovative reds produced in Australia's cooler reaches.
For extra credit, revisit Episode 9 of Season 2, on the refreshing white wines of Australia, where we learn about the growing trend for lighter whites as well from guests Louisa Rose of Yalumba and Pewsey Vale (or rather Hill-Smith Family Vineyards as they’re known now), and Con-Greg Grigoriou, winemaker and partner at the Delinquente Wine Co. based in Riverland, as we have a similar discussion with them.
*This episode was produced in partnership with Wine Australia. -
With a broad, international perspective, award-winning author, Decanter columnist and broadcaster, Andrew Jefford shares his thoughts on Ontario Chardonnay after his role as a keynote speaker at this year's i4C (International Cool Climate Celebration) in Niagara, Ontario. Join John & Sara as they listen in to Jefford's consequential speech which connects the dynamic aspects of wine to music.
Jefford shares his understanding of how a winemaker can bring a sense of place most memorably into being, without the hindsight of a long tradition. In the case of Ontario, Jefford tells us why chardonnay is most apt in clearly revealing a sense of North: "the great brooding icy masses of water; the sticky chaos of moraine and till; the implacable grey of winter; the green frenzy of summer." If a region's uniqueness can be expressed through the instrument of a grape variety, the group discusses the importance of "winemakers who are listening for singularities of landscape and topographical aptitude." But is chardonnay, like the cherished piano, overused and taken for granted? All this and more in this unforgettable episode of The Wine Thieves. -
The Thieves are back in Europe to explore the wealth of indigenous grape varieties and stunning stunning old vineyards found in Portugal. Exactly how this sliver of the Iberian peninsula has been able to safeguard traditions, vineyards and distinctive regional character is what Sara and John are out to learn.
They have a hunch that large-volume producers have a role to play, and invite three important guests to investigate: Martim Guedes, the Co-CEO of Aveleda (along with Antonio Guedes). Martim’s great-great grandfather Manoel Pedro Guedes founded Quinta da Aveleda in the Minho region 150 years ago, helping the wines of Vinho Verde achieve international recognition . The company has since expanded to the Douro, Bairrada and Algarve, and exports to more than 70 countries.
Luís Almada is an Executive Board Member of Casa Santos Lima, a family owned company that makes wine in Lisboa, Algarve, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and the Douro, exporting 90% of its total production to more than 50 countries on 5 continents. Casa Santos Lima is It is the largest single producer of Vinho Regional Lisboa (responsible for the production of more than 50% of all the certified wine in the Lisboa region) and DOC Alenquer.
Pedro da Fonseca is managing partner of Vicente Leite Faria in the Douro Valley, drawing on fruit from estate vineyards as well as hundreds of small growers that together account for over 500 hectares of vineyards. Born in Portugal but raised in Canada, Pedro studied at York University in Toronto before earning a Master’s degree from Harvard, and he's currently a PhD candidate at the London Metropolitan University. Pedro has a sincere love for wines of his mother country and their proliferation abroad.
We delve into topics such as the incentivization of small growers by large producers, land conservation, and the preservation and re-propagation of rare, indigenous grapes. Although other countries such as the Republic of Georgia, Greece, and Italy can also boast many indigenous grapes, Portugal claims the highest density, some 250 varieties across an area six times smaller than France (551,500 km² vs. 92,120 km²). But many are on the verge of extinction. We’ll find out what large wine companies are doing to help protect and preserve grape varieties that are at risk such as Azal, Codega do Larinho, Sousao, Tinta Grossa, and Jampal, among many others.
Climate change has also affected Portugal harder than many wine regions, pushing Portuguese growers to become global leaders in responding to the climate threat. You'll find out what environmental initiatives these leading brands have undertaken, and how have these practices have had an impact on the industry at large.
Join John and Sara for an invigorating discussion on the role of leading brands safeguarding land, grapes and traditions in Portugal.
Sponsored by ViniPortugal. -
The Wine Thieves are finally back with a new episode, perfect for the late summer, at least in the northern hemisphere, in which we share some cool news and information on the white wines of Australia. Many picture Australia as a warm country with beautiful beaches and great surfing, well suited to heat-loving red grapes like grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre (aka mataro) that make up the classic GSM blend, and rightfully so. But this episode looks at some lesser-know, future classic white wines. John and Sara steer clear of chardonnay, despite the many excellent examples, and concentrate instead on the new wave of eclectic and lively whites emerging across the country.
Our special guests are Con-Greg Grigoriou, winemaker and partner at the Delinquente Wine Co. based in Riverland, and the legendary Louisa Rose, head winemaker for Hill-Smith Family Vineyards, which includes includes Pewsey Vale, and, most famously, Yalumba.
Grigoriou has set Deliquente apart from much of the bulk production the Riverland region is better known for, by pushing boundaries and making non-conformist wines in every sense of the word from unconventional varieties like arinto, malvasia bianco, fiano, bianco d’alessano, and vermentino.
Pewsey Vale, on the other hand, put Eden Valley on the world map for riesling. At the same time, Louisa has created an identity for viognier at Yalumba, the first southern hemisphere winery to produce wine from the variety in a style that Rose has been perfecting it for the last twenty years.
Hot or not, wherever you may be listening in the world, this episode will leave you craving a glass of refreshing Australian white wine. -
In today’s episode: how cataloguing old vines in South Africa has raised standards for fair employment, and sustainable farming and may just prove the key to solving the problem of the country’s most prevalent vine virus. We continue investigating the topic of old vines, this time from a different perspective, as we look to the Certified Heritage Vineyards of South Africa. We hope you’ve built up an appetite for the subject after last week’s head-turning conversation with the South Australian duo of Dr. Dylan Griggs, the man who wrote the Ph.D. thesis on old vines after an extensive study of the old vines of the Barossa Valley, and Prue Henschke, viticulturist for the renowned Henschke winery, that produces two of the oldest single vineyard wines in Australia today.
We know that the term “old vines” helps to sell wine. Trade and well-informed consumers, tend to believe that old vines = better wine. But is that really true? Listen to last week’s episode to find out more about that topic but, spoiler alert, a more accurate expression would be “old vines make different wines”. The Thieves have come to think that those differences are worth preserving and protecting and thus will be discussing a movement in South Africa whose core mission is to do just that - preserve and protect old vines. Winery members of what is known as the “Old Vine Project” can now put a Certified Heritage Vineyards seal on bottles - the threshold for old is 35 years, which is not quite as arbitrary a number as you might think and the seal includes the date of the original planting of each of these old vineyards – a guarantee of authenticity.
Our guests on the program include former lawyer-turned-viticulturist Rosa Kruger who is the founder of the small, privately funded group of crusaders known as “The Old Vines Project”. Kruger is the great-great-granddaughter of Paul Kruger, President of South Africa from 1883-1900, and the one for whom the famous Kruger national park is named. During her travels and tastings around the wine world, Kruger arrived at the realization that old vines not only had advantages on a viticultural level, but also produced better, or at least distinctively, wine.
Rosa’s colleague and counterpart at the OVP, Andre Morgenthal, joins the round table. André has lectured at the Cape Wine Academy and has worked several vintages at Domaine Bertagna in Vougeot, Burgundy and made wine on a small Stellenbosch property, Clos du Ciel. In 2001, he joined Wines of South Africa (WOSA) as Communications Manager with a focus on media relations but in 2016 he resigned from WOSA to start his own business, among other ventures assisting Rosa Kruger with the Old Vine Project (OVP).
Also joining the conversation is Andrew Harris of DGB, one of the largest South African producers and distributors of wine and spirits. DGB has developed and built some of the most successful wine brands in South Africa, including Boschendal, Franschhoek Cellars and Bellingham, as well as new projects through Artisanal Brands such as The Old Road Wine Co. and Fryer’s Cove, which DGB acquired last year. DGB is an important member of the Old Vine Project and manages more old vineyards than any other group in SA.
Find yourself a glass of old vines chenin blanc and join the conversation! -
Today's episode takes a critical look at the fashionable and fascinating subject of old vines, some extremely old, how they got so old, how they perform and the wines they produce. Do they make better wine than young vines?
The Wine Thieves ask two world experts from South Australia to weigh in: Prue Henschke, viticulturist for the renowned Henschke winery, including two of Australia’s most iconic ancient vineyards, Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, and Dr. Dylan Grigg, author of the doctoral thesis “An investigation into the effect of grapevine age on vine performance, and grape and wine composition”. Grigg studied five shiraz vineyards in the Barossa with genetically related ‘young’ and ‘old’ plantings in close proximity. The average age difference between these adjacent young and old blocks was an astonishing 97 years, the greatest spread of extreme of vine ages to be subjected to scientific scrutiny.
And it's a study that couldn't be reproduced elsewhere; South Australia is home to some of the world’s oldest vineyards, including some of the oldest producing vines on the planet.
And the Barossa Valley in particular is rather unique in the world with large areas of surviving pre-phylloxera vines, some with continual production that dates back 180 years.
In 2009 the Barossa Valley instituted the ‘old vine charter’ to register vineyards by age, so that older vines could be both preserved and promoted. The charter classifies vineyards into 4 age categories that include Barossa Old Vines , equal to or greater than 35 years of age, Barossa Survivor Vines, at least 70 years of age, Barossa Centenarian Vines 100 years old or more, and Barossa Ancestor Vines 125 years old or more.
With a glass of fine shiraz in hand, Join the Wine Thieves for this perspective-changing discussion about what it means to be old. You'll have to suspend your beliefs about old vines and the wines they produce. The conversation might very well reset your beliefs! -
Who doesn't love Beaujolais? This in-depth episode is all about this picturesque, hilly region and its geological and stylistic diversity. Recent cataloguing of the Beaujolais soils helped bring to light over 300 soil profiles that have been analyzed and described by geologists in tandem with growers, underscoring that diversity (be sure to check out the soil map, published on beaujolais.com.)
The Thieves welcome Mee Goddard to the round table, one of the newer voices in Beaujolais, who launched her Domaine in 2013 with three special bottlings of Morgon: Corcelette, Grand Cras, and Côte du Py. She focuses on “vins de garde”, wines meant to age, blending carbonic and non-carbonic techniques.
Cyril Chirouze is also on the program, Director of Winemaking and manager of Château des Jacques, owned by the venerable Maison Louis Jabot. Cyril made wine in the Côte d'Or before making the move to Beaujolais, yielding to the "siren call" of gamay, and the vast, untapped potential of the region. Today Cyril makes wines in the crus of Morgon and in Moulin-a-Vent.
Mathieu Lapierre is our third star guest at the table. Matthieu's father Marcel Lapierre was a pivotal player in the revival of Beaujolais, one of the "gang of four" who moved towards making wines with a bare minimum of intervention, what are currently often called “natural” wines. Mathieu sets the record straight on what is "traditional" winemaking in the region (spoiler: it's probably not what you think), and explains why gamay languished in northern Burgundy but flourished in the south.
John and Sara also attempt to sort out the status of the lieux-dits in Beaujolais and investigate the difference between a lieu-dit, a climat and a cru at the conclusion of the interview.
Join us as we dig beneath the multicoloured soils of Beaujolais to reveal the secrets of France's most affable wine. Santé!
This episode was produced in collaboration with the interprofessional association of Beaujolais. -
The Wine Thieves venture out beyond wine (but not too far) to speak with Michelin starred chef-sommelier José González-Solla (Pepe to his friends) of the renowned Casa Solla, near Pontevedra in Galicia. Once-known for its excellent, traditional, home cooking, when Solla took over from his parents he transformed the business through his inventive style of cooking that's still firmly focused on the authentic flavours of Galicia.
Pepe believes that “Galicia is the best place in the world to be a chef!” thanks to the excellent quality of regional ingredients, and he lets us in on a few of his cooking secrets to get the most out of what's available. There is of course the bounty of the rías to draw from, where sweet and saltwater meet on the Spanish coast, which includes the world's best razor clams, mussels, crab and pulpo (octopus), to name but a few. But inland, Galicia also has a unique breed of pork , distinctive from the Iberian pigs prevalent in the rest of Spain, as well as local cattle and native poultry breeds, abundant produce and a wealth of local cheeses made into unique shapes such as the mushroom-shaped cheese known as Cebreiro, the creamy Arzùa-Ulloa, the golden pear-shaped of San Simón da Costa and the cheese known as Tetilla . . . .
Solla was among the founders of an association called the Grupo Nove, a 100%-Galician gastronomic movement. Members include a couple dozen Galician chefs, champions of their regional cuisine and innovators in the realm, whose aim is to put Galicia firmly in the world spotlight of cuisine.
Salivating? Join us as we ask chef Pepe Solla for tips on cooking at home and how best to enjoy the energetic wines of Rias Baixas.
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In Episode 4 in a five-part series on Rias Baixas, the Wine Thieves speak with winemaker Emilio Rodriguez of the Terras Gauda winery in O Rosal, the largest privately owned winery in Rias Baixas. Emilio has been at Terras Gauda for longer than he can remember, and he is a big fan of some of the other native grapes of the region beyond Albariño, especially caiño blanco. He speaks about the sweeping changes that occurred in the region, bringing Rias Baixas out of the middle ages of homespun winemaking and into the modern, quality-focused industry it is today.
O Rosal is in the spotlight, the third most important sub-zone of Rias Baixas in size after the Salnés Valley and Condado do Tea. A coastal region in the southwestern corner of Galicia, bordered by the Minho River and Portugal to the south, Condado do Tea to the east, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. O Rosal accounts for about 11% of total plantings in Rias Baixas, and sits in temperature between that of Condado do Tea, the warmest, and Val do Salnés, the coolest.
Albariño is the main variety here, but complementary white varieties loureiro, treixadura, caiño and even godello have a role to play. Terraced, south-facing vineyards along the north bank of the Minho enjoy excellent sun exposure, maximizing the nearly 2200 sunshine hours per year. Ripeness is nudged to a slightly higher degree than in the Salnés Valley, enabling even late varieties like caiño to deliver. Another distinguishing feature of Rosal is the band of schist bedrock that runs through the region, a variation on the otherwise granite-derived soils in most of the rest of the Rías Baixas D.O. You can expect the white wines of O Rosal to tilt more towards stone fruit flavours and relatively generous and rounded palate.
Grab a glass of your prefered Atlantic white and join John & Sara on their continued journey across the misty terroir of Rias Baixas.
Salud! -
Rias Baixas episode 3 of a five-part series: redefining Albariño, emerging styles, ageworthy wines, and the Condado do Tea subregion with special guest Isabel Salgado, winemaker at Fillaboa. In this episode we shift our focus over to the Condado do Tea sub-region. Condado de Tea is the second largest sub-region of the five, behind the Salnès Valley. It starts inland from O Rosal about 40 kilometres from the coast along the course of the Minho River into rugged, mountainous territory. The region gets its name from a tributary of the Miño, called the Tea River, which runs through Condado do Tea (the “County of Tea”). As the most inland of the sub-regions, it’s the least Atlantic, although there is no question that all of Rias Baixas can be considered a maritime terroir. But, it's less directly affected by cooling marine breezes making it warmer overall. The soils are quite shallow here, with granite and slate sub-layers quite near the surface, with plenty of alluvial material along with pebbles and sand on top, deposited by both the Tea and the Miño rivers. Albariño is, again, the major grape, but Treixadura is the second variety of choice, which has a firm, steely structure, high acids and apple-y flavours.
Today the Wine Thieves talk with Isabel Salgado, winemaker at the Fillaboa Estate, one of the oldest estates in Galicia and one of the largest in the land registry of Pontevedra. It features an exquisite garden of camellias, olive trees, and magnolias along with 50 hectares of vineyard divided into 12 parcels, mostly south-facing on the north (or right bank) of the Miño River. Isabel shares her thoughts on emerging styles of Albariño, including a wine she makes that spends 6 years ageing on lees before bottling, and experiment to extend the ageability of this variety so often consumed young.
Join Isabella, John and Sara as they explore more unique facets of albariño when grown in this inland region on the pebbly soils left by the Tea and Miño Rivers.
Salud!
Episode sponsored by D.O. Rias Baixas, content exclusively by The Wine Thieves® -
This is part two of a five-part series on the Wine of Rias Baixas. In the first episode, we took you through the region, including a brief history and the technical details of climate and soils, sub-regions and the denominación of origin rules and regulations. If you missed it, you may want to go back and have a listen to our interview Katia Alvarez, winemaker at the Martin Codax winery of the Val do Salnés sub-region.
In this episode, we remain in the Salnés valley sub-zone and speak with Diego Rios, the Chilean winemaker in charge of regional reference, Granbazán. We get to the bottom of the mysterious origins of albariño with Diego, the most widely planted grape in Rias Baixas today. Germanic tribes? Cistercian monks travelling the Way of St. James? or Roman foragers? Find out in this episode.
Saltiness in wine is a strangely recurring theme on Wine Thieves, and we also look more deeply in this episode into its causes. Is it real? Or perceived? A trick of the other senses joining together to create the impression, or a bona fide dose of sodium? Does the terroir of Rias Baixas itself contribute to the perception of salinity? We discuss such riveting angles as sodium deposits on grapes, absorption through soils into vines, and even how the important Galician canned seafood industry might play a role… As always with scientific papers, our conclusions are that, "further study in this field is recommended”. So grab a glass of salty coastal Albariño from Green Spain, maybe some razor clams or pulpo a la gallega, and join Sara and John on this adventure into the past and future.Salud!
Episode sponsored by D.O. Rias Baixas, content exclusively by The Wine Thieves® -
Welcome back and thank you for joining us for another season of Wine Thieves! We're off to a fresh start with our latest series in which we explore albariño, seaside vineyards and fresh Atlantic wines as we travel through the diverse wine-growing region of Rias Baixas. This small corner of northwestern “Green Spain” in the region of Galicia has emerged over the last couple of decades as a premier source of fresh, crunchy, salty wines that are mainly, but not exclusively, white. This first episode in the series will give you all the relevant background to the Denomination of Origin Rias Baixas and its wines, and includes an interview with winemaker Katia Alvarez, chief winemaker at Martìn Codax, one of the region’s largest and most recognized producers around the globe. The winery is based in the sub-region of the Val do Salnès, the largest of the 5 subregions of Rias Baixas.
The coastal landscape of Rías Baixas features a series of spectacular jagged inlets and shallow fjords known as “rias”, hence the name Rías Baixas, which means literally the “lower rias", or lower estuaries”. The D.O. Rias Baixas encompasses over 4000 hectares of vineyards, split into 5 sub-zones according to their topography and proximity to rivers and the sea. Although over 99% of all wine produced in Rías Baixas is white, differences in microclimates, terroir and grape varieties in the five sub-zones, as well as different winemaking techniques, make for impressive diversity. Styles range from crisp, aromatic citrusy and saline in Val do Salnés, to the peachier, softer style in O Rosal, and a less fruity, some say earthier style in Condado do Tea.
Grab your map and your glass as we explore the remarkable hillside and terraced vineyards of Rias Baixas, discuss the traditional pergola system called "parra", learn why yields are so low, what wine style to expect from each subregion, how salty sea air affects coastal vineyards, and how hydric stress can occur in a rainy climate.
Salud!
Episode sponsored by the D.O. Rias Baixas -
A replay of last year's terrific episode celebrating Riesling day, March 19th, featuring Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) of the Mosel Valley, Johannes Leitz from the Rheingau, Philip Wittman of the Rheinhessen, and twins Hans and Valentin Rebholz of Ökonomierat Rebholz. The earliest-known written record of Riesling dates back precisely to March 13, 1435 in Germany, in the cellar log of Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen in Rüsselsheim, a town just south of the Rheingau. The log notes a purchase for 22 shillings of “seczreben Rießlingen in die wingarten – “Riesling cuttings for the vineyard”. That’s why March 13th has been officially designated as Riesling's big day, and this year, 2021, mark's its 586th birthday. Deutschland is its undisputed home, accounting for 45% of all the Riesling planted worldwide with 23,800 hectares under vine. So how better to celebrate this momentous occasion than at table with a quartet of Germany's maximum Riesling artists? John and Sara welcome stars Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) of the Mosel Valley, Johannes Leitz from the Rheingau, Philip Wittman of the Rheinhessen, and twins Hans and Valentin Rebholz of Ökonomierat Rebholz in the southern Pfalz for a jovial ode to this favorite grape of all wine lovers and an exploration of the grosses gewächs, or grands crus, of these top producers. Learn your slate from your quartz, your Himmelreich from your Sonnenhur, Roseneck from Rottland, Kirchspiel from Brunnenhäuschen, and Kastanienbusch from Ganz Horn, among others. Reminisce about the days when a bottle of cru classé St. Estephe sold for $5 and a bottle of Mosel for $8, get the table's perspective on unforgettable food & Riesling pairings, and bonus: learn which rieslings these experts consider the benchmarks outside of Germany. Grab a glass of this beauty and don't miss the riesling celebration!
This episode is produced in partnership with the Wines of Germany. - Vis mere
