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Now in the southern region of Oman, Mark and the Jewel of Arabia team have arrived in the region Bertram Thomas referred to as Arabia Felix. Mark describes this as one of his favourite places in the world.
The landscape has changed from rough, rocky and arid desert to rich, lush green, almost tropical looking . The wildlife has changed too, they caught the first bat on their camp trail camera last night. In was a treeless landscape apart from a few acacia and frankincense trees today the team visited the largest living land species in Oman, giant baobab trees at Wadi Hanna. This landscape couldnât be more different from the sands of The Empty Quarter where the team were just a few days ago.
It is very easy to see why Thomas referred to this area of Oman as Arabia Felix.
And as the expedition starts to near its end point of Salalah, Marks looks ahead to the welcome and visits planned for the next few days.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
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The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Oman lies on a major migratory flyway between Arabia and Asia. It is also blessed with a huge diversity of indigenous birdlife. But for many species over many years, the easiest and most abundant source of food was found at landfill sites.
For many reasons this wasnât ideal. But furthermore as Oman has reduced the amount and type of waste sent to landfill there was a consequential knock on effect to many, some critically endangered, species.
The solution has been to develop a series of so called âraptor resturantsâ. Where food and food industry waste can be set out in secure areas for bird species to come and feed on.
The mutual benefits to humans and birdlife is huge as Mark found out when he spoke to Ahmed Al Zubair a Senior Sustainability Strategist behind the birdlife buffets
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Spread across 3,500 acres in Omanâs Dhofar region, Wadi Dawqah is home to the worldâs largest protected Boswellia sacra forest, a place where thousands of frankincense trees have flourished over the centuries. This is where the most sustainable, ethical and transparent source of frankincense begins its thousand-year-old journey into the world.
After visiting the site, Mark talks to Matt Wright about the vision for the future of sustainable frankincense and creating the worldâs first smart forest.
The Land of Frankincense World Heritage Site
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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From the edge of the Rubâ al Khali Mark tells the story of the ancient lost city of Ubar, the legendary lost city in the largest sand desert on earth. In his previous expedition, The Heart of Arabia, Mark retraced Philbyâs effort to find Ubar, which ultimately failed, but considering the significance of the place, the Jewel of Arabia team wanted to visit some of the possible locations.
Possible locations, because Philby wasnât the only British explorer to have searched for Ubar, T. E Lawrence, Thomas, Thesinger and Ranulph Fiennes have all made efforts to find the Atlantis of the Sands.
It was during Fiennes search that artefacts were discovered, and excavations began. Mark and the team were given a guided tour of the site as it is today from some local guides.
Ubar was significant because it was the last guaranteed watering hole for camels on the trade routes before heading into the Rub al Kahli. But, climate change and human extraction mean that today the well is dry.
The icing on todayâs cake though was to meet an old Bedouin friend who had a photograph of himself travelling with Wilfred Thesinger along the same route.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Today the team passed the Harwheel wind farm, which is Omanâs first wind farm and made up of 13 turbines.
With a target of achieving net zero by 2050, the transition to a renewable and sustainable future is underway; Oman has set itself the challenge of becoming a global green energy hub, and a regional and world leader in the production of green hydrogen, a journey overseen by inspirational individuals such as Dr Firas Al Abduwani.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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The British explorer, Wilfred Thesiger wrote that itâs impossible to be alone in the Arab world. This is a sentiment echoed by Mark and the team as they have travelled through Oman.
After the toughest day of the expedition so far yesterday, day 20 of the expedition was the complete opposite.
The day started with a walk along a beautiful, deserted beach of white sands and azure, blue water before they arrived at an abandoned fishing village. Before long some other travellers arrived and soon conversation over coffee was in full flow.
Mark describes his love for the hospitality and generosity of the Omani people. Because later in the day they met the fisherman would refuse any money for the fish he insisted the team cook around the campfire that night, the mechanic who helped fix the shredded tyre wanted only a smile and the coffee shop owner who heard the expedition team had arrived at his coffee shop insisted the round of coffees was a gift from him to the team.
Mark reflects on this being one of the many things that makes the country so special for him.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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At the end of a long and tiring day, Mark talks to us from one of his favourite campsites in all of Oman. He is sitting in a cave, ospreys are circling overhead and the team are about to bed down, exhausted.
24 hours ago they were looking at looking at night sky when they noticed the stars disappear and felt the first drop of rain. The rain came and was followed by strong winds which led them to trying to quickly store and protect everything in camp. In the morning the weather had passed over.
Mark had been told about an incredible archaeological site near by that was full of trilith fossils, what they were and what their purpose was is still unclear, but they went up a nearby wadi to find them.
As they continued their journey later in the day the challenges began. A punctured tyre led to a shredded tyre and some route redesigning. But just as they approached their stopover where Mark talks to us from now, they encountered sabkha, which is like slippery, muddy quicksand.
But the team worked incredibly well together again, freeing one of the vehicles and reaching camp to rest after what has been a long and exhausting day.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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After a tough day yesterday walking face into a sandstorm, Mark and the team have headed inland to learn about the Bauer Nimr Reedbeds.
Visible from space, the Bauer Nimr reedbeds are the largest manmade reedbed on earth. Their role is both fascinating and vital. The plantation is a multi-award winning flagship project for the biological cleaning of polluted water from oil production at the Nimr oil field in the south of Oman.
At peak times, up to 175,000 mÂł of polluted water currently runs through the plant in one day, Nearly 95% of the crude oil in the water can be removed or recovered without the use of energy or chemicals.
But a lush green reedbed like this brings other benefit too. It has become its own biodiversity hotspot with over 130 recorded bird species found there, thriving fish populations and water at the end of the process that is clean enough to be recycled for local agricultural use.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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From their camp on the shore of The Indian Ocean last night, today the Jewel of Arabia team headed inland to Jiddat al-Harasis. A 3000km2 reserve working to protect, breed and reintroduce the Arabian Oryx to Oman.
In Bertram Thomasâs time the Arabian Oryx was fairly widespread. But the Oryx become a prized trophy for hunters. Numbers fell almost to extinction in the wild. A captive breeding programme was started and in April 1984, 11 captive breed Arabian Oryx were reintroduced to the desert of Jiddat al-Harasis.
Through expedition team member Dikra, Mark talks to the Said bin Nasser Al Harsoosi about his role as a ranger and reveals that today the population stands at over 720 individuals.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Mark and the team have had a recharge and wash day at their beach camp on the shoreline about 40 kms north of Duqm where they visit tomorrow.
But this evening they are joined around the beach campfire by Mission Spiritus expedition leader, Alan Chambers. Bertram Thomas wrote that stories start where the road ends and around the fire Mark and Alan share stories about their two expedtions.
After a career in the Royal Marines and a colleague suffering a significant neck and spinal injury, Alan has devoted his life to fundraising for spinal injury research through fairly extreme fundraising expeditions. It was over a coffee in Antarctica watching an eclipse that the idea for Mission Spiritus was born.
Alan describes himself as one of âearthâs gardenersâ. Travelling to some of the most remote places on earth and collecting snow, sand, water, ice and rock samples, Mission Spiritus are supporting research into the global spread of micro and nano plastic pollution.
Mark and Alanâs path have crossed as Mission Spiritus are about to head into the Sharqiya sands to collect sand samples.
Find out more about Alan and Missions Spiritus here
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Today Mark is joined by Scott McDonald, CEO, The British Council and Thomas Lloyd, Country Director Oman, British Council who have both joined the expedition for 48 hours.
Resting under an acacia tree in a wadi that Thomas described as lush, green and over a kilometre wide, Mark , Scott and Thomas talk about the role of The British Council as it celebrates its 90th year, the work it does in Oman, and how it is helping the expedition engage young Omanis to push for a more sustainable world.
Towards the end of the expedition, The British Council is hosting a sustainability hackathon aimed at promoting and supporting young Omanis in start up to continue to drive the sustainable momentum.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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After camping last night at Bar Al Hikmann the expedition team have travelled west to try and cross over to Mahoot island.
Mahoot island has one of the largest mangrove habitats in Oman and is a biodiversity hotspot. The mangroves harbour fish nursery grounds, they provide nesting grounds for birds, some of which are only found on the island, but they also provide coastal storm protection from the monsoons and have 10 times the carbon capture capability of traditional forestry.
But their habitats are decreasing in size.
There is a strong and effective mangrove restoration project being run by the Omani Environment Agency and led by Aziza Al Adhoobi. Mark speak to Aziza about the work being done to protect and restore the mangrove habitats
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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The Bar Al Hikmann wetland reserve is an internationally recognised site for migratory birds. Its mudflats have some of the highest densities of shorebirds in the world and itâs geographical position makes a key point on the West Asian â East Africa flyway route for migratory waterbirds.
With its rich biodiversity and local efforts to protect, conserve and record the wetland, this was going to be a key place for the Jewel of Arabia Team to visit.
Mark sits down to talk to Aziza Al Adhoobi who is leading the some of the work to get protected status for the wetlands and while also being heavily involved in the fieldwork around the reserve.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Day 9 started with an emotional goodbye for the team as Amour and the camels left the expedition as planned. Mark and Amour have done several expeditions together and their goodbyes are always difficult.
Later in the day, the team have travelled over a short sea crossing to Masirah Island, about a third of the way down the Omani coast. Unlike Thomas who was welcomed by the local Sheikh on the mainland, the Jewel of Arabia team were welcomed to Masirah by the local Wali.
Masirah Island is a wildlife hotspot and Mark talks to us from their campsite at the southern tip of the island. The white sandy shoreline, speckled with corals, gives way to rocky upper shore zones which were full of hermit crabs. As the camp torches were switched on at dusk, swarms of silver tipped moths were attracted to the light.
Light pollution is a big issue for the resident loggerhead turtle population and Mark speaks to Juma Al Urami from the Environmental Society Oman about some of the conversation measures they are putting in place to try and stop the population decline of this critically endangered species.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
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The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Oman is home to 5 of the worldâs 7 different species of turtle. The coastline provides the ideal beach nesting conditions for turtles, which during the laying season come ashore in vast numbers to lay their eggs in their sand nests.
But like almost all wildlife they are under various threats. Climate change, light pollution and uncontrolled tourism all pose a risk to the resident species.
Mark and the team have reached the Indian Ocean again and soon will travel to Masirah Island, home to several species of turtle. To learn more about the different species, their life cycles and the conservations effort around their protection Mark speaks to Rabab Al Lawati, a conservation and outreach co-ordinator for the Environmental Society of Oman.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Last nightâs camp was about 8 kms from the coastline, it was much colder than previous night which led to a heavy dew and the whole team waking through the night very wet in their sleeping bags.
But sunrise bought warmth and the desert dawn chorus which (loudly) serenaded them during breakfast.
As they walked today they came across a mosque in the desert. The local caretaker was happy to open it up and show them around. For Amour and Ibrahim this meant they were able to pray in the mosque. But with no call to prayer being sung Amour sings one for them both.
Marks describes the 5 core pillars of Islam for listeners who may not know them and explains the importance of the moon and lunar cycle on the Arabian calendar, which he finds gives him a far greater connection to the moon than he otherwise finds at home in the UK.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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As the team leave the Sharqyia Sands behind them and continue back towards the Indian Ocean Mark reflects on desert travel.
Thomas referred to the monotony of the days travelling in his book Arabia Felix. Thomas would spend long days in the saddle, sometimes noting in his diary he found himself bored. But for the Jewel of Arabia team slow travel in the desert is anything but boring. Marks describes different patterns in the sand he has observed which give away the changing wildlife â from gerbils to scorpions and snakes.
Desert travel is about using all of your senses to absorb the landscapes around you.
Camels and Land Rovers are the main forms of transport for the team. They have 2 of each. But riding camels in the desert and driving vehicles in the desert take particular skills and Mark describes some of the essential skills, and his admiration for the way Amour reads the sand ahead, for driving through the sand.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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Mark talks to us as the expedition team stop for lunch and to rest the camels on Day 5 of the expedition. The expedition team are settling into a strong routine now. Mark and Amour are walking and riding the camels, Nigel and Ibrahim have got the overnight camps working really well. Dikra is off working with some young Omanis and Ana-Maria is capturing pictures and film that tell the expedition stories.
After heading inland the team are now on a south south east route to intersect Bertram Thomasâs original route and although this is the desert, it is rich with life. The camera trap continues to show the coming and goings around the camp while the team sleep. Hoopoe Larks sing around them, yesterday they heard a swarm of bees and the camels grunt, spit, burp and digest their grazings.
The weather has a huge impact on desert life. Marks refers to Thomasâs diary where he observed that many of the coastal Bedouin communities moved inland during the summer months when the winds made fishing at sea too dangerous. But the winds bring moisture which makes the desert green and full of life and rich harvests.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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After a cold night in their desert camp the team woke up to a covering of dew on their sleeping bags. Today is the start of their trek into the Sharqiya Sands and the team are joined by students and staff from the British School Muscat for part of their walk.
Mark talks to his old friend Jonathan Turner while he walks. Jonathan runs a commercial dive business in Oman and describes the beauty of Omanâs underwater world to Mark.
The end of today seeâs the team arrive at 1,000 night camp. A luxury campsite deep into the desert. Today itâs run by Wisal Al-Harthi, who talks to Mark about the values of the camp, her passion for sustainability and responsible tourism in a fragile and hostile environment like the desert.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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After a reception from local leaders at Jalan fort earlier today, Mark and the team made quick progress into the Sharqiya Sands, formerly the Wabhiba Sands, to meet up with a group of students and staff from Outward Bound Oman.
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition has strong links with Outward Bound Oman, which since it first opened in 2009 has trained over 30,000 young people. Mark sits down in conversation with acting Executive Director Mohamed Al Zadjali to find out about the impact of the organisation on young Omanis and how it is adapting to a sustainable future.
One of the legacy projects of the expedition is the delivery of a brand new all-terrain wheelchair that will enable people of all abilities to go on courses and expeditions at the various field centres run by Outward Bound Oman. Today is the day it arrives with students for the first time.
This isnât just a first for Oman, this is the first all terrain wheelchair in The Middle East.
Expedition website: The Jewel of Arabia Expedition
Follow the expedition on social media: Instagram and Facebook
The Jewel of Arabia Expedition podcast is produced by Adventurous Audio
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