Episoder
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Dr. Aaron Lewis, a historian of the U.S. South, talks about his dissertation on the historical memories of Stonewall Jackson, Robert E. Lee, and Jefferson Davis of the Confederate States of America and the importance of studying the Confederacy and its role in perpetuating white supremacy throughout U.S. history. He also discusses how/why Confederate symbols are still present in the United States today and the way their meanings have changed throughout the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries.
Dr. Aaron Lewis has a Ph.D. in History from the University of South Florida. To read Dr. Lewis’ dissertation, click here: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/8463/
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @x.filezzz
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For the final episode of Season Two, Dr. Chad Nelsen, CEO of the Surfrider Foundation, and I discuss "surfonomics", the threats our oceans and coasts face, and how surfing can play a large role in conserving our planet.
Chad earned his Ph.D. in Environmental Science and Engineering from UCLA, and has been working in ocean and coastal conservation for over 25 years, working at the intersection of advocacy, ocean recreation, and grassroots organizing. His research at UCLA led him to become a founder in the field of “surfonomics,” which studies the economic value of surfing and ocean recreation.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: SOVRN Republic. Check them out online and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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Manglende episoder?
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For this episode, I am joined by surf historian Katie Hunt. Katie is in the home stretch of her History Ph.D. at the University of Kent. She’s an avid surfer at her home break in North Devon. That is…when the waves are good.
In this episode, Katie offers us a brief history of the “surf shop,” as well as an overview of its founding years in California from 1935 to 1959—an era in California surfing history considered the golden years of isolated nomadic surf communities. We also dig into the “feeling” one gets from being in a surf shop, and how surf shops in non-coastal towns can still engender a feeling of nostalgia to surfers longing to be in the water.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: SOVRN Republic. Check them out online and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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The is a special episode with "The Surfing Historian" Podcast host, Jason Old, where he addresses a few questions from one of our loyal listeners. The questions are about his specific research on the proliferation of surf tourism in Nicaragua. Do you have questions for our host? Feel free to visit us at surfinghistorian.com and send your questions on our contact page.
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For today’s episode, I chat with Dr. Stefan Krause about his research on surf tourism in Costa Rica and his work on cultural heritage in the Federated States of Micronesia.
Stefan is the Program Director of Anthropology at Lamar University in Beaumont, Texas. His academic research focuses primarily on the anthropology of tourism and cultural heritage. He holds an Master’s degree from San Diego State University where he conducted research on surf tourism in Costa Rica. Stefan’s anthropology PhD, however, is from the University of South Florida. There, he shifted his attention away from Central America to study the Western Pacific, focusing on the preservation of traditions and customs on the island of Yap in the nation of the Federated States of Micronesia.
You can check out his research at lamar.academia.edu/StefanKrause.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: SOVRN Republic. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, I chat with Jesse Reiblich, professor of marine law and policy at the University of Rhode Island, about surf break protection and his most recently published article, "A Global Review of Legal Protection Mechanisms for the Management of Surf Breaks," which he co-published in Marine Policy with Dr. Shane Orchard and Mauricio dos Santos.
Jesse Reiblich is an attorney and expert in coastal and marine law and policy. He teaches and researches at the University of Rhode Island in the Marine Affairs Department. Jesse has published on many topics, including coastal access and equity, climate change policy, the public trust doctrine, water law, coastal adaptation, the California Coastal Act, and surf break protection. His upcoming research will focus on environmental justice concerns in the U.S. Territories, coastal access and recreation, and the efficacy of statutory coastal laws.
Article Summary
Legal protection has become essential for managing the world’s surf breaks much as it has for other marine and coastal protected areas. This paper presents the first systematic review of global developments in this field. We used a keyword literature search and thematic content analysis to characterize legal protection mechanisms that are designed for surf breaks or have been specifically applied to address surf break protection needs. They are currently found in six countries, protect over 500 surf breaks, and include examples of single-location mechanisms (e.g., Malibu in USA, Punta de Lobos in Chile) and national-level protection mechanisms addressing multiple surf breaks (e.g., New Zealand and Peru). Across all examples we identified 63 discrete themes that can be drawn upon to design and communicate protection measures and present these in a typology that highlights contributing ideas.
Thematic analysis identified a major distinction between process and outcome-based requirements. More comprehensive protections can be recognized by attention to a wider range of threat classes and in the detail provided for decision support, with the two ideally working together to identify the minimum assessment requirements for development proposals. Variation in levels of protection is a key topic for consideration as is the process by which locations are identified or qualified for legal protections to apply. There is also a need to evaluate the effectiveness of provisions already in place, carrying with it the need for outcomes-based monitoring which is currently rare.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Banana Bag Oral Solution. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, I chat with Dr. Jérémy Lemarié, Associate Professor of Sports Management at the University of Reims in France, about his research on surf tourism, marketing surfing, surfer activism, and solidarity within the global surf community.
Jeremy’s research more broadly examines sports and tourism in the United States and in Polynesia. After conducting fieldwork in California and Hawaii for three years, he published a book on the commodification of Hawaiian culture through surf tourism and has also published a number of journal articles on the professionalization of lifestyle sports and human-nature interactions.
As a professor, he’s taught courses on Management, Marketing, Tourism, Sociology, History and Cultural Anthropology at 8 universities. Among them, the University of Hawaii at Manoa, the Paris Sorbonne University, and the Paris Institute of Political Studies.
Check out all his scholarly work at univ-reims.academia.edu/JeremyLemarie.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Face Stuff. Check them out online at face-stuff.com, and use promo code "stoked15" for 15% off your purchase.
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For this episode, I interview Environmental Scientist Dr. Ed Atkin about his research on developing tools and guidelines for surfing resource management. In New Zealand, Ed works for eCoast Marine Consulting and Research, conducting research in the areas of surf science and surfing resource management. In addition to his doctoral and consulting work, we also chat about his involvement with the Aotearoa New Zealand Association for Surfing Research and the International Association of Surfing Researchers—organizations that he has been passionately involved with for quite a while.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Face Stuff. Check them out online at face-stuff.com, and use promo code "stoked15" for 15% off your purchase.
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For this episode, I interview ethnomusicologist Dr. Tim Cooley about his book Surfing about Music. Tim is a music professor at the University of California, Santa Barbara, and his research interests center around popular and vernacular music of Central Europe (notably, Poland) and North America—paying particular attention to the roles of musicking in creating individual and community identities. In this intriguing episode, he and I chat about how surf music and how “musicking about surfing” has changed as cultural ideas about surfing itself changed. This wonderful book is featured on surfinghistorian.com.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Banana Bag Oral Solution. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, I interview journalist and novelist, Michael Scott Moore. Michael’s the author of Sweetness and Blood: How Surfing Spread from Hawaii and California to the Rest of the World, with Some Unexpected Results—a travel book about surfing that was revered as one of the best books of 2010 by The Economist.
While the main focus of our conversation is on his surfing book, we also make time to chat about his harrowing experience as a hostage in Africa as well.
Shortly after the publication of Sweetness and Blood, Michael was kidnapped in early 2012 on a reporting trip to Somalia and held hostage by pirates for 32 months. He wrote a memoir about this experience that became an international bestseller. That book is titled The Desert and the Sea: 977 Days Captive on the Somali Pirate Coast. We briefly dig into that experience and book project at the end of the episode.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Face Stuff. Check them out online at face-stuff.com, and use promo code "stoked15" for 15% off your purchase.
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For this episode, I chat with Dr. Krista Comer, professor of American Studies and Feminist Studies at Rice University, about the origins of her book Surfer Girls in the New World Order (published in 2010), as well as her work on "surfeminism." We also chat about The Institute for Women Surfers, an organization she co-founded 2012, along with her reflections on the field of surf studies–as it has massively expanded globally in the last 10+ years. The episode concludes with a teaser about her forthcoming book, Living West as Feminists: Conversations about the Where of Us.
Krista's book, Surfer Girls in the New World Order is featured on surfinghistorian.com. For more information on her other projects, visit The Institute for Women Surfers and The Pink Nose Revolution.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Face Stuff. Check them out online at face-stuff.com, and use promo code "stoked15" for 15% off your purchase.
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For this episode, I chat with fellow surf historian, Dr. Kevin Dawson, about his book, Undercurrents of Power: Aquatic Cultures in the African Diaspora.
Undercurrents of Power centers around African traditions and the ways in which similar traditions—swimming, diving, boat making, and even surfing—emerged within African diasporic communities. This book not only chronicles the experiences of enslaved maritime workers, but also helps to trace and untangle many of their cultural and social traditions. This wonderful book is featured on surfinghistorian.com.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Banana Bag Oral Solution. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, social anthropologist and founder of "The PhiloSurfer Club," Dr. Ignacio Iturralde, and I explore surfing and its connection to philosophical thought, looking at how powerful the ocean metaphor is as an energy and dimension that transcends us, that is bigger than us, and that we can't control.
We also chat about his current philosophical research project, which focuses on the intersectionality of surfing culture and philosophy, as well as his forthcoming book, Philosophical Reflections on Water—a book that dives into the transformative potential of philosophy and surfing as self-improvement disciplines.
The book itself has a threefold objective: to cultivate self-awareness within the surfing community; to engage a broader audience in philosophy by leveraging the allure of surfing; and to ultimately achieve a state of what he calls "wateraxia" – or “a stoked state of mind that empowers individuals to navigate the political turmoil and polarization of our hyper-individualized digital era.”
Click here to join "The PhiloSurfer Club"
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Foil Surfboards. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, I sit down with Dr. Briana (“Brie”) Iatarola to discuss her research on La Libertad, El Salvador and Trestles in San Clemente, California. In the first half of the interview, Brie and I chat about the historical transformation of El Salvador into an internationally recognized "wavetopia" in the wake of the bloody 12-year conflict, which ended in 1992.
For the second half, we discuss the impacts of sea level rise at Trestles since 2016 and the environmental challenges that coastal communities including San Clemente and San Diego face, highlighting collaborative community resilience strategies as possible solutions.
Dr. Iatarola holds a Ph.D. in Communication from the Department of Communication and a master’s degree in Latin American Studies from Center for Iberian and Latin American Studies at U.C. San Diego.
She currently teaches for Seventh College's Synthesis Program at U.C. San Diego, and is an invited instructor for a class about the History of Television for the Television, Film, and New Media Critical Studies Program at San Diego State University.
Dissertation abstract (2018): ‘Saved Forever?’: An Eco-Ethnography of Trestles’ Surfscape
Master’s abstract (2011): “Beyond the waves: economic and cultural effects of the global surf industry in El Tunco, El Salvador”
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Banana Bag Oral Solution. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, Canadian sports scholar, Dr. Bettina Callary, and I talk about Indigenous sport participation and the fully Indigenous surf program that she and her colleagues are working on in Unama’ki (Cape Breton Island) in conjunction with the Surfing Association of Nova Scotia and the First Nation Mi’kmaq Physical Activity Leaders (MPALs).
Bettina is the Canada Research Chair in Sport Coaching and Adult Learning and an Associate Professor in the Department of Experiential Studies in Community and Sport at Cape Breton University in Nova Scotia, Canada. She researches coach education and development strategies, coach developers, and psychosocial understandings of inclusive coaching (e.g., coaching Masters Athletes, women coaches, Indigenous coaches and sport). She leads the Community Active Sport Training and Learning (CoASTaL) lab. Dr. Callary is the Editor-in-Chief of the International Sport Coaching Journal. She wrote the books Coach Education and Development in Sport, published by Routledge in 2020, and Coaching Masters Athletes: Advancing Research and Practice in Adult Sport, published by Routledge in 2021.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
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For this episode, I sit down with Brazilian surfer, motorcyclist, journeyman, and author of “Pan-American Soul: Searching for the Meaning of Life on a Surf Trip from California to Brazil,” Adrian Kojin. Adrian and I talk about his surfing motorcycle foray through Latin America in the late 1980s as well as his more recent experience, which was a reboot of that original trip. We also chat about whether or not he managed to find “the meaning of life” during his epic journey.
Adrian’s book is featured on surfinghistorian.com.
You can also read more about his adventures at Surfline.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Foil Surfboards. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, Dr. Patrick Moser and I talk about the history of California beach culture from 1907 to 1945, as well as how one goes about writing surf history and the process of publication with a university press or a surfing magazine.
Patrick is a professor of writing and French at Drury University and he’s recently finished a biography on George Freeth, titled, Surf and Rescue: George Freeth and the Birth of California Beach Culture. Patrick was also the editor of the book Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing. Additionally, he’s collaborated with former surfing world champion Shaun Tomson on two books: Surfer’s Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life and The Code: The Power of "I Will," all of which are featured on the surfinghistorian.com homepage.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Saba Surf. Check them out online, and use promo code "surf history" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, I sat down with public health expert Jesse Casanova. Jesse is the Assistant Director for International Programs at the University of South Florida Health International. While the focus of this episode is to discuss the health risks associated with international surf travel, we also wanted to provide all of our listeners with some tangible ways to mitigate illness during their travels.
Jesse Casanova has worked in the field of public health for over 15 years and was a Peace Corps and Peace Corps Response volunteer in Togo, Cameroon, and Senegal. In addition, Jesse has worked in global health, helping to manage the malaria health portfolio for Cameroon from the U.S. Embassy, he WAS also the liaison between Malaria No More and Global Fund in Cameroon, and has helped to train Peace Corps counterparts from over 10 sub-Saharan African countries.
His research at USF includes hearing health projects in Malawi and South Africa, river blindness elimination projects in Nigeria with the Gates Foundation, G4 Surveillance System restructuring proposals with Pasteur Institute of Dakar in Senegal, and Intimate Partner violence training of trainers in Egypt. Jesse is finishing his DrPH degree in Public Health Leadership and holds a master’s degree in international Humanitarian Action from the University of Deusto in Spain.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Banana Bag Oral Solution. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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In this episode, I sit down with Environmental Science and Resource Management professor, Dr. Dan Reineman, to talk about coastal resource management; his career and life as a professional “coastographer” (a word he made up); and the role of surfers as stewards of their home break. For the bulk of the episode, we focus our attention largely on two places: Southern California and the Outer Banks of North Carolina. The episode itself is centered around an article Dan co-wrote with colleague, Nick Sadrpour, titled “The Impacts of Climate Change on Surfing Resources.”
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
Episode Sponsor: Santa Barbara Surf Co. Check them out online, and use promo code "stay stoked" for a discount on your purchase.
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For this episode, I interview sociologist Dr. Kristin Lawler about her book, The American Surfer: Radical Culture and Capitalism; we also chat about her essay on the Nietzschean connections between early twentieth century surfers and the hobos of the Industrial Workers of the World–an essay that will be published in the forthcoming book, Roll and Flow: The Political Ontology of Surfing and Skateboarding; and finally, I get her thoughts on the current state of critical surf studies as a field of academic inquiry.
Dr. Lawler is a professor of sociology at the College of Mount Saint Vincent in New York City. Her first book, The American Surfer, was published by Routledge in 2011, and her new book, co-edited with Michael Roberts and David Cline, entitled Roll and Flow, is being published by San Diego State University Press and should be available this fall. The American Surfer, however, is featured on surfinghistorian.com.
Artwork by Nacer Ahmadi: IG @nacerfilez
Production by TwistedLogix and Morrisound Studios
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