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  00:22:45

  See Know Evil

  Bande à part 19 May starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below.
  
  Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/
  
  See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil
  
  See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/
  
  Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/
  
  Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/
  
  Rebecca Arnold, ‘Heroin Chic’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 3 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779151405
  
  Jake Hall, ‘Reframing the life and work of pioneering 90s photographer Davide Sorrenti’, Dazed (24 January 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43027/1/davide-sorrenti-90s-photographer-see-know-evil-film-charles-curran-heroin-chic
  
  James Cameron (director), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/
  
  Louise Krasniewicz and Michael Blitz, The Intersexts of Linda Hamilton’s Arms (1996): http://chnm.gmu.edu/aq/arnold/arnoldwebpages/intersext.htm and https://www.academia.edu/11345036/The_Intersexts_of_Linda_Hamiltons_Arms_updated_with_references

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  00:32:06

  Le Plaisir

  Bande à part 12 May starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss Max Ophüls’ 1952 film Le Plaisir and wonder at the ageing dandy portrayed in the opening section. See links below.
  
  Max Ophüls (director), Le Plaisir (1952): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045034/
  
  Max Ophüls (director), The Mask from Le Plaisir (1952) – with Italian subtitles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoBi1BeT_PQ&t=22s
  
  Robin Wood, ‘Le Plaisir: Life is Movement’ (16 September 2008): https://www.criterion.com/current/posts/548-le-plaisir-life-is-movement
  
  V.F. Perkins, ‘Le Plaisir: “The Mask” and “The Model”’, Film Quarterly (1 September 2009): https://filmquarterly.org/2009/09/01/le-plaisir-the-mask-and-the-model/
  
  Guy de Maupassant, Le Masque (1889): http://colleges.ac-rouen.fr/pompidou/eva/IMG/pdf_Maupassant_-_Le_Masque.pdf
  
  Guy de Maupassant, The Mask (1889): http://www.online-literature.com/maupassant/4272/
  
  Susan Buck-Morss, The Dialectics of Seeing: Walter Benjamin and the Arcades Project (MIT Press 1989): http://susanbuckmorss.info/media/files/the-dialectics-of-seeing.pdf
  
  Peter Wollen, ‘The Concept of Fashion in The Arcades Project’, boundary 2, Volume 30, Number 1, pp. 131-142 (Spring 2003): https://read.dukeupress.edu/boundary-2/article-abstract/30/1/131/6159/The-Concept-of-Fashion-in-The-Arcades-Project
  
  Ulrich Lehmann, Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity (MIT Press 2000): https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/tigersprung
  
  The Unexpurgated Beaton Diaries (Weidenfeld & Nicolson 2002)

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  00:22:35

  Cruise & Resort

  Bande à part 4 May starstarstarstarstar add

  We wonder just what cruise and resort wear are ... Some links below.
  
  Fashion, Self-Reflexivity and the Question of Inspiration, Conference, History of Dress, Research Forum, The Courtauld Institute of Art (11 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-self-reflexivity-and-the-question-of-inspiration
  
  Addressing Images with Nadya Wang, The Courtauld Institute (17 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/addressing-images-3
  
  Fashion Illustration Masterclass with Martin Welch, The Courtauld Institute (17 June 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-masterclass-with-martin-welch
  
  Bobby A. Suarez (director), Cleopatra Wong (1978): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077343/
  
  Resort 2020 Shows on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020
  
  April Calahan, ‘Tina Leser: Global Vision’, in Nancy Deihl (ed), The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers, Bloomsbury (2019)
  
  Rebecca Arnold, 'Behind the Scenes with Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell: Alternative Views of Fashion Photography in Mid-Century America', in Fashion Studies, Volume 1, Issue 1 (2018): https://www.fashionstudies.ca/behind-the-scenes
  
  Alison Toplis, The Smock Frock: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245
  
  Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/

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  00:28:42

  Pose

  Bande à part 28 Apr starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the costumes in Pose, it’s influences and the history of Drag Balls. See links below.
  
  Jennie Livingston (director), Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/
  
  Jennie Livingston: https://www.jennielivingston.com/
  
  Steven Canals, Brad Falchuk, Ryan Murphy (creators), Pose (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7562112/
  
  Jamel Shabazz: http://www.jamelshabazz.com/
  
  Armet Francis photos at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/francis-armet/AUTH319927/
  
  Berry Gordy (director), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/
  
  Monique-Antoine Orosemane (Mounia), ‘Black History Month with Fashion Bomb Daily: Mounia’ (2011): http://fashionbombdaily.com/black-history-month-with-fashion-bomb-daily-mounia/
  
  Debbie Allen in Fame, TV Series, Season 1 (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtgmnhRQir4
  
  RuPaul’s Drag Race (2009-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1353056/
  
  Alyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile: A History of Racial Passing in American Life (Harvard University Press 2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101
  
  bell hooks, ‘Is Paris Burning?’, in Black Looks: Race and Representation (South End Press 1992), pp. 145-156: https://aboutabicycle.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/bell-hooks-black-looks-race-and-representation.pdf
  
  Judith Butler, ‘Gender is Burning: Questions of Appropriation and Subversion’, in Anne McClintock, Aamir Mufti, and Ella Shohat (eds.), Dangerous liaisons: gender, nation, and postcolonial perspectives (University of Minnesota Press 1997), pp. 381–395: http://pica.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/gender-is-burning.pdf
  
  Farid Chenoune, ‘Their ball: Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period’, Modes Pratiques (January 2018): https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html#
  
  Knole: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/knole
  
  William Larkin paintings at Kenwood House: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/kenwood/history-stories-kenwood/history/collections/
  
  William Larkin, Portrait of a Young Lady, possibly Jane, Lady Thornhaugh, 1617, Yale Center for British Art: https://collections.britishart.yale.edu/vufind/Record/4379629

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  00:28:40

  Getting Dressed

  Bande à part 15 Apr starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the ritual of getting dressed with the help of your valet or maid in the early 20th century. See links below.
  
  Myself When Young by Iris Capell, printed by D.G. Seldon Printing Limited, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada (not dated)
  
  John Singer Sargent, The Countess of Essex, Private Collection (1906): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adele_Capell,_Countess_of_Essex#/media/File:The_Countess_of_Essex,_1906.jpg
  
  Henry Poole, Savile Row tailors: https://henrypoole.com/hp/
  
  Le Diable à Paris (1845): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5578064j
  
  Louis Gould, Mommy dressing : a love story, after a fashion (1998): https://archive.org/details/mommydressinglov00goul
  
  Lucinda Hawksley, The great Victorian beard craze, BBC (17 November 2014): https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-30037914
  
  Kate Strasdin, Inside the Royal Wardrobe: A Dress History of Queen Alexandra (2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/inside-the-royal-wardrobe-9781474269933/

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  00:33:30

  East End Tales

  Bande à part 31 Mar starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss Charles Poulsen’s memoirs of life in early 20th century London and his work in the fur trade. See links below.
  
  Charles Poulsen, Scenes from a Stepney youth (1988): https://archive.org/details/scenesfromstepne00poul
  
  Charles Hobday, Charles Poulsen (obituary), The Guardian (14 December 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/dec/14/guardianobituaries.humanities
  
  British Pathé, Fur Coat (1953) – shows nailing: https://www.britishpathe.com/video/fur-coat/query/furrier
  
  Lyon’s Corner House Menu (1914) – no egg mayonnaise: https://www.kzwp.com/lyons1/tariff1914.htm
  
  Photograph of Nippy, Museum of London (1925-1933): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/468522.html

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  00:26:35

  Moses Quiquine

  Bande à part 24 Mar starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss Moses Quiquine's wonderful art that crosses time and space, and his exhibition ‘Voodoo Child: Identity, Spirituality & Fashion’ at The Africa Centre in London. See links below.
  
  Moses Quiquine: ‘Voodoo Child’, The Africa Centre, London (22/03/2019 –17/04/2019): https://www.africacentre.org.uk/blog/moses-quiquine-voodoo-child-exhibition/
  
  Moses Quiquine: https://www.instagram.com/mosesquiquine/
  
  Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: Commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai (ed), The social life of things: commodities in cultural perspective (CUP 1986): http://ls-tlss.ucl.ac.uk/course-materials/ANTH7021_68798.pdf

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  00:30:26

  Subversive Stitch

  Bande à part 17 Mar starstarstarstarstar add

  We talk about the work of some of the artists working with textiles who are part of TJ Boulting's current exhibition Subversive Stitch. See links below.
  
  UCL, The Survey of London, Boulting & Sons (19 May 2017): https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/survey-of-london/2017/05/19/boulting-sons/
  
  Subversive Stitch, TJ Boulting (14 February – 23 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/exhibitionspage/509/subversive-stitch
  
  Subversive Stitch conversation – Charlotte Edey, Lilah Fowler and Celia Pym (20 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/newsandevents
  
  Roszika Parker, The Subversive Stitch (2010, first published 1984): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-subversive-stitch-9781848852839/
  
  Goldsmiths, University of London, The Subversive Stitch Revisited: The Politics of Cloth: https://www.gold.ac.uk/subversivestitchrevisited/
  
  Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir / Shoplifter: http://www.shoplifter.us/
  
  Emma de Clercq, We meet Icelandic artist Shoplifter at her hair-filled Brooklyn studio, Infrigne (20 October 2016): https://www.infringe.com/shoplifter/
  
  Nick Cave: http://nickcaveart.com/Main/Intro.html
  
  Nick Cave, Soundsuits – Pogo Group, Denver Art Museum (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3UtqxQS1hk
  
  James Merry: https://www.jtmerry.com/
  
  Olga Frantskevich, biography at The Gallery of Everything, London: https://www.gallevery.com/artists/olga-frantskevich
  
  Judith Scott, Creative Growth Art Centre: http://www.creativegrowth.org/artists/judith-scott/
  
  Judith Scott – Bound and Unbound, Brooklyn Museum, New York (24 October 2014 – 29 March 2015): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/judith_scott/
  
  Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/

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  00:25:20

  The Oscar Wilde Temple

  Bande à part 10 Mar starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss McDermott & McGough’s inspiring Oscar Wilde Temple at Studio Voltaire in Clapham, and its link to Aesthetic Dress.
  
  McDermott & McGough, The Oscar Wilde Temple, Studio Voltaire, London (3 October 2018 – 28 April 2019): https://www.studiovoltaire.org/exhibitions/
  
  The Oscar Wilde Temple: https://www.oscarwildetemple.org/
  
  McDermott & McGough: http://www.mcdermottandmcgough.com/
  
  V&A, An Introduction to the Aesthetic Movement (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-the-aesthetic-movement
  
  Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art & Reason – Dress Reformers of the 19th Century (John Murray 1974)
  
  Liberty silk dress made by Denyer & Co, Museum of London (1881-82): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/77441.html
  
  Opera Cape made of Liberty fabric, Museum of London (1893-98): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89403.html

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  00:24:43

  Molly Goddard & Women's Wear

  Bande à part 3 Mar starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss our love of Molly Goddard and other female designers making clothes that women want to wear now.
  
  Molly Goddard: https://mollygoddard.com/
  
  Dress Portrait, Molly Goddard and Sarah Edwards, Chelsea Space (23 January - 1 March 2019): http://www.chelseaspace.org/archive/dress-portrait-info.html
  
  Ana Kinsella, How a Dress Can Be More Than a Commodity, Frieze (20 February 2019): https://frieze.com/article/how-dress-can-be-more-commodity
  
  Killing Eve, Series 1:2, Costume designer Phoebe de Gaye (15 September 2018): https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p06kc8mb/killing-eve-series-1-2-ill-deal-with-him-later
  
  Lily-Evelina England, Fashioning the dangerous woman in 'Killing Eve' (23 November 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2018/11/23/fashioning-the-dangerous-woman-in-killing-eve/
  
  Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/ and https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/
  
  Batsheva: https://www.batsheva.com
  
  The Vampire's Wife: https://thevampireswife.com/
  
  Horror Vacui: https://horror-vacui.com/
  
  Chloe Malle, Pioneer Women Are Roaming the City, The New York Times (12 September 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/12/style/prairie-woman-style-batsheva-doen.html
  
  Carl Williams, Revival: Laura Ashley, Apollo (27 September 2013): https://www.apollo-magazine.com/revival-laura-ashley/
  
  Reina Lewis, Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith (2013): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/modest-fashion-9781780763828/
  
  Dressed: The History of Fashion podcast, Cult Style: an interview with Sarah Byrd (26/02/2019): https://www.dressedpodcast.com/podcasts/cult-style-an-interview-with-sarah-byrd.htm

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  00:21:55

  Valerie Steele & Exhibitionism

  Bande à part 24 Feb starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss Valerie Steele's recent talk at the London College of Fashion about the current exhibition at and history of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum in New York. See also links below.
  
  Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (8 February 2019 – 20 April 2019):
  https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/exhibitionism.php
  
  Valerie Steele and Colleen Hill (eds): Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (2019):
  http://www.skira.net/en/books/exhibitionism
  
  Exhibiting Fashion Symposium, FIT (8 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/symposium/exhibiting-fashion/index.php
  
  50 Years of The Museum at FIT: Fashion as Cultural Heritage (14 March 2019):
  https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/index.php#MFIT
  
  Walter Vecchio (photos) and Robert Riley (text), The Fashion Makers: A Photographic Record (Crown Publisher 1968)
  
  Annalee Gold, ‘Talks with a Costume Conservator’, American Craft (October/November 1981): http://www.bettykirke.com/articles/Craftmag/acm.html
  
  Judith Clark and Amy de la Haye with Jeffrey Horsley, Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After 1971(Yale University Press 2014): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300125795/exhibiting-fashion
  
  Julia Petrov, Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the display of dress (Bloomsbury 2019): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-history-museums-9781350048997/
  
  Lou Taylor, Establishing Dress History (Manchester University Press 2005)
  
  Centre for Fashion Curation at LCF: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/research-centres/centre-for-fashion-curation#

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  00:28:06

  Alexander McQueen

  Bande à part 17 Feb starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below.
  
  Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/
  
  Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/
  
  Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/
  
  Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html

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  00:26:18

  Mundo Latinx

  Bande à part 10 Feb starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the new exhibition at the Fashion Space Gallery at London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx, curated by White Line Projects. See links below.
  
  Fashion Space Gallery, London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx (8 Feb to 5 May 2019): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/mundo-latinx/
  
  White Line Projects: http://www.whitelineprojects.com/
  
  Lucia Cuba (official website): http://www.luciacuba.com/
  
  Ada Alti, ‘Articulo 6 Project by Lucia Cuba’ Trendland (10/03/2013):
  https://trendland.com/articulo-6-project-by-lucia-cuba/
  
  Lucia Cuba (interviewer) and Mauricio Delfin (video), ‘We have woken up’, interview with Aurelia Paccohuanca and Micaela Flores (January 2012): https://vimeo.com/42281777
  
  Lucia Cuba and Eduardo Delgado (camera & edition), Articulo 6 (2013): https://vimeo.com/41995578
  
  Ciudadaniasx, Proyecto Artículo 6 de Lucia Cuba (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAVwIKFfyk
  
  Lauren Cocking, ‘Photography as Catharsis: An interview with Chiapan photographer Diego Moreno’, The Culturetrip (12 December 2016):
  https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/mexico/articles/photography-as-catharsis-an-interview-with-chiapan-photographer-diego-moreno/
  
  Diego Moreno, ‘In my mind there is never silence’, Photographic Museum of Humanity (10/06/2016):
  https://phmuseum.com/DiegoMoreno/story/in-my-mind-there-is-never-silence-d136bf1e79

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  00:26:48

  Pleats

  Bande à part 3 Feb starstarstarstarstar add

  We wonder about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below.
  
  Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34
  
  Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html
  
  Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc
  
  Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY
  
  The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): http://www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/
  
  Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil
  
  Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil
  Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-brazil-9781350026605/

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  00:32:11

  Catherine Deneuve & Auction Sales

  Bande à part 27 Jan starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the recent sale of Catherine Deneuve’s Yves Saint Laurent clothes, and wonder about the values and meanings attached to vintage fashions. See links below ...
  
  Catherine Deneuve et Yves Saint-Laurent [sic], Christie's, Sale 17514, 24 January 2019, results: https://www.christies.com/catherine-deneuve-et-yves-28219.aspx
  
  Jess Cartner-Morley, 'Catherine Deneuve is selling her Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe - but that look will never go away', The Guardian (15 January 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jan/15/catherine-deneuve-is-selling-her-yves-saint-laurent-wardrobe-but-that-look-will-never-go-away
  
  AnOther, 'Catherine Deneuve Sells $1 Million Worth of Yves Saint Laurent Couture' (25 January 2019): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/11444/catherine-deneuve-sells-1-million-worth-of-yves-saint-laurent-couture
  
  Rencontres Couture à Paris de la Collection Didier Ludo, Sotheby's, Sale PF1570, 8 July 2015, results: http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2015/collection-didier-ludot-pf1570.html
  
  Didier Ludot, Paris: https://www.didierludot.fr/
  
  Raphael Samuel, Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture (1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory
  
  Michael Clarke, 'Exhibition Review: Madeleine Vionnet: 15 Dresses from the Collection of Martin Kamer', Fashion Theory, Vol. 6, 2002, Issue 3: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270402790577631
  
  Rosa Vertov, 'Tina Chow: The inventor of "minimal chic"', Vertov, 7 March 2018: https://shopvertov.com/blogs/vintage-inspiration/tina-chow-the-inventor-of-minimal-chic

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  00:37:41

  Yves Saint Laurent & Busby Berkeley

  Bande à part 20 Jan starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the current Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris and the representation of Eastern cultures in fashion, and consider the extravagant vision of Busby Berkeley films from the 1930s. See links below ...
  
  Les Nadar, une légende photographique, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris (16 October 2018 - 3 February 2019):
  http://www.bnf.fr/m/fr/m_actualites/m_anx_expos/f.nadar_legende_photographique.html
  
  L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (2 October 2018 - 27 January 2019): https://museeyslparis.com/expositions/asie-revee-yves-saint-laurent
  
  Mélody Thomas, ‘Expo: Ce que l’Asie Rêvée d’Yves Saint Laurent nous dit de la mode actuelle’, Marie Claire (14 October 2018): https://www.marieclaire.fr/exposition-l-asie-revee-d-yves-saint-laurent,1284384.asp
  
  Susie Lau, ‘Saint Laurent’s Dreams of the Orient: “When you know a culture, you can’t make mistakes’, The Guardian (2 October 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/02/saint-laurents-dreams-of-the-orient-when-you-know-a-culture-you-cant-make-mistakes
  
  Connaissance des Arts, [Avant-Première] ‘L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent’ (24 September 2018): https://youtu.be/4MjGN30QAOs
  
  Télé Matin, ‘Mode – Yves Saint Laurent, voyageur imaginaire’ (27 November 2018):
  https://youtu.be/xvq-M1dt7ws
  
  Ray Enright, Busby Berkeley (directors), Dames (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025028/
  
  Phyllis Rose, Jazz Cleopatra: Josephine Baker in Her Time, Doubleday (1989): https://archive.org/details/jazzcleopatrajos00rose

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  00:25:36

  Layers & Remembering Designers

  Bande à part 16 Dec 2018 starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the delights and dilemmas of layers, and question why some designers are better remembered than others. See information and links below.
  
  Hardy Amies, Just So Far (Collins 1954)
  
  Hardy Amies, ABC of Men’s Fashion (V&A 2008, first published in 1964): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/abc-of-men-s-fashion-94479.html
  
  Hardy Amies, Still Here: An Autobiography (Weidenfeld and Nicolson 1984)
  
  Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit (Quartet Books 2013, first published in 1994): https://www.quartetbooks.co.uk/shop/the-englishmans-suit/
  
  Ossie Clark and Lady Henrietta Rous (ed), The Ossie Clark Diaries (Bloomsbury 1998)
  
  Norman Hartnell, Silver and Gold (Pitman 1956)
  
  Norman Hartnell, Royal Courts of Fashion (Littlehampton 1971)
  
  Victor Stiebel, South African Childhood (HarperCollins 1968)
  
  Edwina Ehrman & Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (V&A 2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html
  
  Neville Jacobs in Balenciaga: https://www.instagram.com/p/BrVcIy7FXST/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

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  00:25:45

  Black Narcissus & Asta Nielsen

  Bande à part 9 Dec 2018 starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the power of costume in Powell & Pressburger’s 1947 film Black Narcissus and the amazing silent film actress Asta Nielsen.
  
  Michael Powell, Emeric Pressburger (directors), Black Narcissus (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039192/
  
  Reviews of Black Narcissus: http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/47_BN/index.html
  
  Asta Nielsen, Die schweigende Muse (Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1979, first published 1945/46)
  
  Asta Nielsen's page on Women Film Pioneers Project: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/asta-nielsen-2/
  
  Urban Gad (director), Afgrunden (1910), dance scene: https://youtu.be/criEcLXgUQ0
  
  Urban Gad (director), Die Suffragette (1913): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0132536
  
  Asta Nielsen Flickr Album, Danish Film Institute / The Film Museum: https://www.flickr.com/photos/36461985@N08/albums/72157630867865856

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  00:39:30

  Atelier E.B & Politicising Fashion

  Bande à part 2 Dec 2018 starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the wonderful Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, and wonder about the ethics of using people’s fashion choices for targeting political propaganda. See links below.
  
  Atelier E.B: Passer-by at Serpentine Gallery (2018-19): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/atelier-eb-passer
  
  Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition guide (2018): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/files/downloads/1636.serp_atelier_e.b_guide_aw_no_crops.pdf
  
  Eric Newton, 'First surrealist art exhibition in England - archive, 1936', The Guardian (12/06/2018, originally 12/06/1938): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2018/jun/12/first-surrealist-art-exhibition-in-england-archive-1936
  
  RA Collections Team, 'How to read it: Meredith Frampton’s Still Life' (17/02/2017): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/article/how-to-read-it-meredith-frampton
  
  Marguerite V. Hodge, 'Enigmatic Bodies: Dolls and the Making of Japanese Modernity', Nineteenth-century art worldwide, vol. 12, issue 1 (spring 2013): http://www.19thc-artworldwide.org/spring13/hodge-enigmatic-bodies (mentions Yasumoto Kamehachi)
  
  Gene Moore’s work for Tiffany & Company: https://edan.si.edu/slideshow/slideshowViewer.htm?eadrefid=NMAH.AC.1280_ref113
  
  Lynn Hershman Leeson, Project for Bonvit Teller (1976): http://www.lynnhershman.com/project/site-specific-installations/
  
  Rudolf Belling, Sculptures and Architectures, exhibition at Hamburger Bahnhof, Berlin (2017): https://www.smb.museum/en/exhibitions/detail/rudolf-belling-skulpturen-und-architekturen.html
  
  Mannequin Museum, Wolfgang Knapp, KulturGut: http://www.mannequin-museum.com/
  
  Tag Gronberg, Designs on modernity: Exhibiting the city in 1920s Paris (2003): http://www.manchesteruniversitypress.co.uk/9780719066740/
  
  Rebecca Arnold, 'Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London', Fashion Theory, vol. 21, issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426
  
  Bethan Bide, 'More than window dressing: visual merchandising and austerity in London’s West End, 1945–50', Fashion Theory, vol. 60, issue 7 (2018): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00076791.2017.1400531
  
  Vikram Alexei Kansara, 'Cambridge Analytica Weaponised Fashion Brands to Elect Trump, Says Christopher Wylie', Business of Fashion (29/11/2018): https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/cambridge-analytica-weaponised-fashion-brands-to-elect-trump-says-christopher-wylie
  
  Vanessa Freedman and Jonah Engel Bromwich, 'Cambridge Analytica Used Fashion Tastes to Identify Right-Wing Voters', New York Times (29/11/2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/29/style/cambridge-analytica-fashion-data.html

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  00:30:19

  Jessie Redmon Fauset & Eating Beauty

  Bande à part 25 Nov 2018 starstarstarstarstar add

  We talk about Jessie Redmon Fauset's 1928 novel Plum Bun and the affinities between the sense of taste and fashion and beauty. See links below.
  
  Jessie Redmon Fauset, Plum Bun (1928): http://www.beacon.org/Plum-Bun-P136.aspx
  
  Jacquelyn Y. Mclendon, The Politics of Color in the Fiction of Jessie Fauset and Nella Larsen (1995): https://www.upress.virginia.edu/title/2892
  
  Smithsonian, The Scurlocks and Black Washington (2009): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/videos/category/history/the-scurlocks-and-black-washington/
  
  Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/
  
  Sofia Coppola, Marie Antoinette (2006): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720
  
  Rebecca Arnold, '‘The New Rococo: Sofia Coppola And Fashions In Contemporary Femininity’, in Katie Scott and Melissa Hyde, Rococo echo: art, history and historiography from Cochin to Coppola (2014): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/files/2015/09/Rebecca-Arnold-New-Rococo-from-Rococo-Echoes.pdf
  
  Raymond Meier photographs for Harper's Bazaar: http://raymondmeier.com/harpers-bazaar/
  
  Lernert & Sander, Natural Beauty (2011): https://www.nowness.com/story/lernert-sander-natural-beauty

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