Episodes
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00:21:55
Valerie Steele & Exhibitionism
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss Valerie Steele's recent talk at the London College of Fashion about the current exhibition at and history of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum in New York. See also links below.
Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (8 February 2019 – 20 April 2019):
https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/exhibitionism.php
Valerie Steele and Colleen Hill (eds): Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (2019):
http://www.skira.net/en/books/exhibitionism
Exhibiting Fashion Symposium, FIT (8 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/symposium/exhibiting-fashion/index.php
50 Years of The Museum at FIT: Fashion as Cultural Heritage (14 March 2019):
https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/index.php#MFIT
Walter Vecchio (photos) and Robert Riley (text), The Fashion Makers: A Photographic Record (Crown Publisher 1968)
Annalee Gold, ‘Talks with a Costume Conservator’, American Craft (October/November 1981): http://www.bettykirke.com/articles/Craftmag/acm.html
Judith Clark and Amy de la Haye with Jeffrey Horsley, Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After 1971(Yale University Press 2014): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300125795/exhibiting-fashion
Julia Petrov, Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the display of dress (Bloomsbury 2019): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-history-museums-9781350048997/
Lou Taylor, Establishing Dress History (Manchester University Press 2005)
Centre for Fashion Curation at LCF: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/research-centres/centre-for-fashion-curation# -
00:28:06
Alexander McQueen
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below.
Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/
Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/
Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/
Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html -
Missing episodes?
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00:26:18
Mundo Latinx
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the new exhibition at the Fashion Space Gallery at London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx, curated by White Line Projects. See links below.
Fashion Space Gallery, London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx (8 Feb to 5 May 2019): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/mundo-latinx/
White Line Projects: http://www.whitelineprojects.com/
Lucia Cuba (official website): http://www.luciacuba.com/
Ada Alti, ‘Articulo 6 Project by Lucia Cuba’ Trendland (10/03/2013):
https://trendland.com/articulo-6-project-by-lucia-cuba/
Lucia Cuba (interviewer) and Mauricio Delfin (video), ‘We have woken up’, interview with Aurelia Paccohuanca and Micaela Flores (January 2012): https://vimeo.com/42281777
Lucia Cuba and Eduardo Delgado (camera & edition), Articulo 6 (2013): https://vimeo.com/41995578
Ciudadaniasx, Proyecto Artículo 6 de Lucia Cuba (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAVwIKFfyk
Lauren Cocking, ‘Photography as Catharsis: An interview with Chiapan photographer Diego Moreno’, The Culturetrip (12 December 2016):
https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/mexico/articles/photography-as-catharsis-an-interview-with-chiapan-photographer-diego-moreno/
Diego Moreno, ‘In my mind there is never silence’, Photographic Museum of Humanity (10/06/2016):
https://phmuseum.com/DiegoMoreno/story/in-my-mind-there-is-never-silence-d136bf1e79 -
00:26:48
Pleats
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe wonder about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below.
Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34
Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html
Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc
Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY
The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): http://www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/
Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil
Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil
Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-brazil-9781350026605/ -
00:32:11
Catherine Deneuve & Auction Sales
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the recent sale of Catherine Deneuve’s Yves Saint Laurent clothes, and wonder about the values and meanings attached to vintage fashions. See links below ...
Catherine Deneuve et Yves Saint-Laurent [sic], Christie's, Sale 17514, 24 January 2019, results: https://www.christies.com/catherine-deneuve-et-yves-28219.aspx
Jess Cartner-Morley, 'Catherine Deneuve is selling her Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe - but that look will never go away', The Guardian (15 January 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jan/15/catherine-deneuve-is-selling-her-yves-saint-laurent-wardrobe-but-that-look-will-never-go-away
AnOther, 'Catherine Deneuve Sells $1 Million Worth of Yves Saint Laurent Couture' (25 January 2019): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/11444/catherine-deneuve-sells-1-million-worth-of-yves-saint-laurent-couture
Rencontres Couture à Paris de la Collection Didier Ludo, Sotheby's, Sale PF1570, 8 July 2015, results: http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2015/collection-didier-ludot-pf1570.html
Didier Ludot, Paris: https://www.didierludot.fr/
Raphael Samuel, Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture (1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory
Michael Clarke, 'Exhibition Review: Madeleine Vionnet: 15 Dresses from the Collection of Martin Kamer', Fashion Theory, Vol. 6, 2002, Issue 3: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270402790577631
Rosa Vertov, 'Tina Chow: The inventor of "minimal chic"', Vertov, 7 March 2018: https://shopvertov.com/blogs/vintage-inspiration/tina-chow-the-inventor-of-minimal-chic -
00:37:41
Yves Saint Laurent & Busby Berkeley
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the current Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris and the representation of Eastern cultures in fashion, and consider the extravagant vision of Busby Berkeley films from the 1930s. See links below ...
Les Nadar, une légende photographique, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris (16 October 2018 - 3 February 2019):
http://www.bnf.fr/m/fr/m_actualites/m_anx_expos/f.nadar_legende_photographique.html
L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (2 October 2018 - 27 January 2019): https://museeyslparis.com/expositions/asie-revee-yves-saint-laurent
Mélody Thomas, ‘Expo: Ce que l’Asie Rêvée d’Yves Saint Laurent nous dit de la mode actuelle’, Marie Claire (14 October 2018): https://www.marieclaire.fr/exposition-l-asie-revee-d-yves-saint-laurent,1284384.asp
Susie Lau, ‘Saint Laurent’s Dreams of the Orient: “When you know a culture, you can’t make mistakes’, The Guardian (2 October 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/02/saint-laurents-dreams-of-the-orient-when-you-know-a-culture-you-cant-make-mistakes
Connaissance des Arts, [Avant-Première] ‘L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent’ (24 September 2018): https://youtu.be/4MjGN30QAOs
Télé Matin, ‘Mode – Yves Saint Laurent, voyageur imaginaire’ (27 November 2018):
https://youtu.be/xvq-M1dt7ws
Ray Enright, Busby Berkeley (directors), Dames (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025028/
Phyllis Rose, Jazz Cleopatra: Josephine Baker in Her Time, Doubleday (1989): https://archive.org/details/jazzcleopatrajos00rose -
00:25:36
Layers & Remembering Designers
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the delights and dilemmas of layers, and question why some designers are better remembered than others. See information and links below.
Hardy Amies, Just So Far (Collins 1954)
Hardy Amies, ABC of Men’s Fashion (V&A 2008, first published in 1964): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/abc-of-men-s-fashion-94479.html
Hardy Amies, Still Here: An Autobiography (Weidenfeld and Nicolson 1984)
Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit (Quartet Books 2013, first published in 1994): https://www.quartetbooks.co.uk/shop/the-englishmans-suit/
Ossie Clark and Lady Henrietta Rous (ed), The Ossie Clark Diaries (Bloomsbury 1998)
Norman Hartnell, Silver and Gold (Pitman 1956)
Norman Hartnell, Royal Courts of Fashion (Littlehampton 1971)
Victor Stiebel, South African Childhood (HarperCollins 1968)
Edwina Ehrman & Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (V&A 2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html
Neville Jacobs in Balenciaga: https://www.instagram.com/p/BrVcIy7FXST/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link -
00:25:45
Black Narcissus & Asta Nielsen
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the power of costume in Powell & Pressburger’s 1947 film Black Narcissus and the amazing silent film actress Asta Nielsen.
Michael Powell, Emeric Pressburger (directors), Black Narcissus (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039192/
Reviews of Black Narcissus: http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/47_BN/index.html
Asta Nielsen, Die schweigende Muse (Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1979, first published 1945/46)
Asta Nielsen's page on Women Film Pioneers Project: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/asta-nielsen-2/
Urban Gad (director), Afgrunden (1910), dance scene: https://youtu.be/criEcLXgUQ0
Urban Gad (director), Die Suffragette (1913): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0132536
Asta Nielsen Flickr Album, Danish Film Institute / The Film Museum: https://www.flickr.com/photos/36461985@N08/albums/72157630867865856 -
00:39:30
Atelier E.B & Politicising Fashion
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the wonderful Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, and wonder about the ethics of using people’s fashion choices for targeting political propaganda. See links below.
Atelier E.B: Passer-by at Serpentine Gallery (2018-19): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/atelier-eb-passer
Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition guide (2018): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/files/downloads/1636.serp_atelier_e.b_guide_aw_no_crops.pdf
Eric Newton, 'First surrealist art exhibition in England - archive, 1936', The Guardian (12/06/2018, originally 12/06/1938): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2018/jun/12/first-surrealist-art-exhibition-in-england-archive-1936
RA Collections Team, 'How to read it: Meredith Frampton’s Still Life' (17/02/2017): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/article/how-to-read-it-meredith-frampton
Marguerite V. Hodge, 'Enigmatic Bodies: Dolls and the Making of Japanese Modernity', Nineteenth-century art worldwide, vol. 12, issue 1 (spring 2013): http://www.19thc-artworldwide.org/spring13/hodge-enigmatic-bodies (mentions Yasumoto Kamehachi)
Gene Moore’s work for Tiffany & Company: https://edan.si.edu/slideshow/slideshowViewer.htm?eadrefid=NMAH.AC.1280_ref113
Lynn Hershman Leeson, Project for Bonvit Teller (1976): http://www.lynnhershman.com/project/site-specific-installations/
Rudolf Belling, Sculptures and Architectures, exhibition at Hamburger Bahnhof, Berlin (2017): https://www.smb.museum/en/exhibitions/detail/rudolf-belling-skulpturen-und-architekturen.html
Mannequin Museum, Wolfgang Knapp, KulturGut: http://www.mannequin-museum.com/
Tag Gronberg, Designs on modernity: Exhibiting the city in 1920s Paris (2003): http://www.manchesteruniversitypress.co.uk/9780719066740/
Rebecca Arnold, 'Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London', Fashion Theory, vol. 21, issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426
Bethan Bide, 'More than window dressing: visual merchandising and austerity in London’s West End, 1945–50', Fashion Theory, vol. 60, issue 7 (2018): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00076791.2017.1400531
Vikram Alexei Kansara, 'Cambridge Analytica Weaponised Fashion Brands to Elect Trump, Says Christopher Wylie', Business of Fashion (29/11/2018): https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/cambridge-analytica-weaponised-fashion-brands-to-elect-trump-says-christopher-wylie
Vanessa Freedman and Jonah Engel Bromwich, 'Cambridge Analytica Used Fashion Tastes to Identify Right-Wing Voters', New York Times (29/11/2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/29/style/cambridge-analytica-fashion-data.html -
00:30:19
Jessie Redmon Fauset & Eating Beauty
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe talk about Jessie Redmon Fauset's 1928 novel Plum Bun and the affinities between the sense of taste and fashion and beauty. See links below.
Jessie Redmon Fauset, Plum Bun (1928): http://www.beacon.org/Plum-Bun-P136.aspx
Jacquelyn Y. Mclendon, The Politics of Color in the Fiction of Jessie Fauset and Nella Larsen (1995): https://www.upress.virginia.edu/title/2892
Smithsonian, The Scurlocks and Black Washington (2009): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/videos/category/history/the-scurlocks-and-black-washington/
Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/
Sofia Coppola, Marie Antoinette (2006): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720
Rebecca Arnold, '‘The New Rococo: Sofia Coppola And Fashions In Contemporary Femininity’, in Katie Scott and Melissa Hyde, Rococo echo: art, history and historiography from Cochin to Coppola (2014): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/files/2015/09/Rebecca-Arnold-New-Rococo-from-Rococo-Echoes.pdf
Raymond Meier photographs for Harper's Bazaar: http://raymondmeier.com/harpers-bazaar/
Lernert & Sander, Natural Beauty (2011): https://www.nowness.com/story/lernert-sander-natural-beauty -
00:27:29
Nita Harvey & Ellen Nolan
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss artist Ellen Nolan’s fascinating archive of her great aunt Nita Harvey’s stage and film career. See links below.
Nita Harvey Archive page on Ellen Nolan's website: http://www.ellennolan.com/Art/nita/nita.html
Ellen Nolan's blog which contains many Nita Harvey images:
http://www.ellennolan.com/wp/
'A Beautiful Dream That Went for a Walk', Voice (2 June 1934): https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/218834069
Nita Harvey on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0367663/
You Must Remember This podcast: http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/
Richard Dyer, Stars (1998): http://www.worldcat.org/title/stars/oclc/39370252
Fancy Dress on Screen Archive South East: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/leisure/fancy-dress/ -
00:30:21
Dress & Autobiography
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the ways fashion and autobiography intersect - prompted by a visit to see clothes in the Museum of London archive. See links below.
Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye (eds), London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html (article on couture clients features Lady Fox and Lady Delamere)
Photos of Myra Alice (née Newton), Lady Fox at NPG: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp91931/myra-alice-nee-newton-lady-fox
Lady Fox's skating outfit at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/ice-skating-fashion-craze
James Fox, White Mischief (1998, first published 1982): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/103/1034644/white-mischief/9780099766711.html
Michael Radford, White Mischief (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094317/
Lisa Cohen, “Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion, Fashion Theory, Vol. 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270499779155032
Lisa Cohen, “VELVET IS VERY IMPORTANT”: Madge Garland and the Work of Fashion, GLQ - A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies, Vol. 11, Issue 3 (2005): https://read.dukeupress.edu/glq/article-abstract/11/3/371/9851/VELVET-IS-VERY-IMPORTANT-Madge-Garland-and-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext
Iris Marion Young, Throwing Like a Girl And Other Essays in Feminist Philosophy and Social Theory (1999): http://www.iupress.indiana.edu/product_info.php?products_id=806576 -
00:35:51
Haptic Fashion & Omar Victor Diop
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the ways clothes feel versus the way they look, and Autograph’s brilliant Omar Victor Diop exhibition. See links below.
Fanshawe mantua at Museum of London (1753): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/85096.html
Lynn Sorge-English, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810 (2011): https://www.routledge.com/Stays-and-Body-Image-in-London-The-Staymaking-Trade-16801810/Sorge-English/p/book/9781138661424
Daniel Miller, Mukulika Banerjee, The Sari (2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-sari-9781847883148/
Honoré-Victorin Daumier, De l'utilité de la crinoline pour frauder l'octroi (1857), Art Institute of Chicago: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/84651
Omar Victor Diop at Autograph (2018): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/liberty-diaspora
Omar Victor Diop website: https://www.omarviktor.com/
Omar Victor Diop interviewed for Paris Photo (2016): https://vimeo.com/190321094
Omar Victor Diop at Design Indaba (2017): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auWl6z733O4
Arpita Shah at Autograph: https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/purdah-the-sacred-cloth
Arpita Shah website: http://arpitashah.com/ -
00:31:25
Francis Upritchard & Marie Duval
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss the mesmerising exhibition of Frances Upritchard’s work at the Barbican, and enjoy the multi-layered references in Simon Grennan’s book Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval. See links below.
Francis Upritchard: Wetwang Slack (2018): http://sites.barbican.org.uk/wetwangslack/
Francis Upritchard at Kate Macgarry: http://www.katemacgarry.com/artists/francis-upritchard/
Hammer Projects: Francis Upritchard (2014-2015): https://hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2014/hammer-projects-francis-upritchard/
Mackenzie Stevens, An “Unruly Material: Balata in Francis Upritchard’s Practice (2014): https://hammer.ucla.edu/blog/2014/12/an-unruly-material-balata-in-francis-upritchards-practice/
Tessa Giblin, The Borrowings of Francis Upritchard (2017): https://christchurchartgallery.org.nz/bulletin/187/the-borrowings-of-francis-upritchard
In Conversation: Peter Pilotto (2016): https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/2016/11/the-statement-issue/in-conversation-peter-pilotto-amex-francis-upritchard-collaboration
Fenberger House: https://www.fenbergerhouse.com/
The Pruitt-Igoe Myth (2011): http://www.pruitt-igoe.com/
Simon Grennan, Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval (2018): https://www.bookworks.org.uk/node/1943
The Marie Duval Archive: http://www.marieduval.org/
Le Diable à Paris (about second edition): https://blog.paris-libris.com/gavarni-granville-le-diable-a-paris-paris-et-les-parisiens-a-la-plume-et-au-crayon-2/ -
00:28:06
Anni Albers & 1930s Fashion
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe discuss two exhibitions that opened in London this week: Anni Albers at Tate Modern and Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs at the Fashion & Textile Museum. See links below.
Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London: https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers
Stiftelsen Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum, Stockholm: http://www.kasiden.se/english-summary/
Paridise Mill and The Silk Museum, Macclesfield: https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/
Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs, Fashion & Textile Museum, London: https://www.ftmlondon.org/ -
00:39:05
Schloss Vogelöd & Frida Kahlo
Bande à part starstarstarstar_halfstar_outline addWe consider the wonders of menswear prompted by Murnau's 1921 film Schloss Vogelöd and discuss the V&A Museum’s current Frida Kahlo exhibition. See links below.
Fritz Murnau (director), Schloss Vogelöd (1921): https://www.murnau-stiftung.de/movie/812
Antony Beevor, The Mystery of Olga Chekhova (2005): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/54988/the-mystery-of-olga-chekhova/9780141017648.html
Roberta S. Kremer (ed), Broken Threads: The Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria (2006): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/broken-threads-9781845206604/
Frida Kahlo exhibition, V&A (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up
Museo Frida Kahlo, Mexico: http://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/en/the-blue-house/
Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Friday Kahlo Museum, Mexico City (2012 – 2013): https://judithclarkcostume.com/exhibitions/appearances-can-be-deceiving-the-dresses-of-frida-kahlo/
Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/6gICPDLcNAzkJA
Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern, Brooklyn Museum (2017): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/georgia_okeeffe_living_modern
Conformismo e trasgressione: il guardaroba di Gabriele d'Annunzio (1988): http://booksinprogressmilano.tumblr.com/post/157952827051/il-guardaroba-di-gabriele-dannunzio-conformismo -
00:28:55
Fashion Weeks & Us
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe devise the Bande à part Manifesto of acceptable approaches to fashion design based on our observations of the current collections. See links below.
Chromat Spring 2019 RTW on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chromat#collection
Pyer Moss: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss#collection
Derrick Adams: http://www.derrickadams.com/
Matty Bovan: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/matty-bovan#collection
Dries Van Noten: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten#collection
Marc Jacobs: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs#collection
Dice Kayek: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dice-kayek#collection -
00:33:46
Interwar London & Art Smith
Bande à part starstarstarstar_outlinestar_outline addWe discuss the hidden diversity of interwar London and the wonders of Art Smith’s Modernist jewellery. See also links below.
Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies (1930): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/57050/vile-bodies/9780141182872.html
Marc Matera, Black London: The Imperial Metropolis and Decolonization in the Twentieth Century (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520284302/black-london
Black Chronicles (NPG/ABP project 2016): https://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/blackchronicles/explore/autograph-abp
Christopher Reed, 'A Vogue That Dare Not Speak its Name: Sexual Subculture During the Editorship of Dorothy Todd, 1922–26', Fashion Theory (2006): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270406778050996
Patrick Elliott and Sacha Llewellyn, 'True to Life: British Realist Painting in the 1920s & 1930s' (2017): https://www.nationalgalleries.org/shop/all-books/national-galleries-scotland-books/true-life-british-realist-painting-1920s-1930s-exhibition-book
Hearts magazine: http://heartsmagazine.net/
Art Smith @ Cooper Hewitt: https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/people/18049319/ -
00:20:03
Kevyn Aucoin & Documenting Beauty
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar_outline addWe discuss the Kevyn Aucoin documentary and various makeup styles we’d like to try. Plus, why are there so many documentaries now? Links to some of what we talk about below.
Lori Kaye, Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & the Beast in Me (2017):
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6972670/
Lottie Winter on Kevyn Aucoin (2017): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/who-is-kevyn-aucoin-everything-you-need-to-know
Way Bandy: https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/15/obituaries/way-bandy-makeup-artist-and-best-selling-writer-dies.html
Visage, Fade to Grey (1982): https://youtu.be/UMPC8QJF6sI
David Bowie, Ashes to Ashes (1980): https://youtu.be/CMThz7eQ6K0
Sandy Linter, Disco Beauty (1979): http://sparklearmy.com/blog/?p=287
Jennifer Lopez, Waiting For Tonight (1999): https://youtu.be/_66jPJVS4JE -
00:25:46
Mail Order Fashion
Bande à part starstarstarstarstar addWe talk about the appeal of buying clothes from catalogues. See links below.
Marshall & Snelgrove catalogue, 'The Visits of Veronica' (1929): http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/mol-77-150-39
Kays catalogues: https://www.worc.ac.uk/discover/world-of-kays-website-charts-20th-century-fashions%20.html - Show more