Episodes
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We discuss the intimate relationship between fashion and interiors, as expressed in couture salon and stores, and how these relate to “backstage” areas where the garments are made.
Jess Berry, House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern Interior (Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/house-of-fashion-9781474283403/
John Pawson’s Jigsaw Store, London (1995-1996): http://www.johnpawson.com/works/jigsaw-store
Nigel Coates’ Jigsaw Stores, London (1990): https://nigelcoates.com/projects/project/jigsaw
British Movietone, Victor Stiebel’s Salon (1958): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHdtgslRAXo
Beatrice Behlen, ‘A Fashionable History of the King's Road’, in Anjali Bulley (ed), Cadogan & Chelsea: The Making of a Modern Estate (Unicorn 2017): https://www.press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/distributed/C/bo28498331.html
Helmut Lang shop, New York (1997): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmut-lang/#2
Helmut Lang Perfumerie, New York (2001): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmut-lang-parfumerie/#1
Images of Maison Myrbor on Gallica: https://tinyurl.com/y3fa7wca
Olivia Chuba, ‘Making Fashion: Humphrey Jennings, Norman Hartnell, And Fashion As Documentary’, Documenting Fashion (10 April 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/tag/documentary/
Erving Goffman, The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life (1956): https://monoskop.org/images/1/19/Goffman_Erving_The_Presentation_of_Self_in_Everyday_Life.pdf
Mark Shaw Photographic Archive: https://markshawphoto.com
Taryn Simon, ‘Paperwork and the Will of Capital’, Gagosian Gallery (2 January – 2 February 2019): https://gagosian.com/exhibitions/2019/taryn-simon-paperwork-and-the-will-of-capital/
Samantha Erin Safer, ‘Designing Lucile Ltd: Couture and the Modern Interior 1900-1920s’, The Journal of the Decorative Arts Society 1850 - the Present, No. 33, Decorative Art and the World of Fashion (2009), pp. 38-53 -
190811-P68 Catching Up
We catch up on each other’s news - including seaside fashion, Crocs, Manolo Blahnik at the Wallace Collection and The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.
Ellie Pithers, ‘Can Christopher Kane Make Crocs Covetable?’, Vogue Online (20 September 2016): https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christopher-kane-crocs-trend
Chester Himes, A Rage in Harlem (1957): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/180/180468/a-rage-in-harlem/9780141196442.html
An Enquiring Mind: Manolo Blahník at the Wallace Collection, Wallace Collection (10 June – 1 September 2019): https://www.wallacecollection.org/whats-on/coming-soon-an-enquiring-mind-manolo-blahnik-at-the-wallace-collection/
Giorgio Riello, A Foot in the Past: Consumers, Producers and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century (Oxford University Press 2006)
Empress Marie-Antoinette’s travel essentials: https://www.museesdegrasse.com/en/evenement/box
Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français (1778-1785), ‘Couturiere élégante allant livrer son ourvrage’: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1056746t/f177.item
Jordan Peele (director), Kym Barrett (costume design), Us (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6857112
Frances Crossley (@francesrcrossley), ‘”Hell Is Other People” – Or Is It US? (3 May 2019): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2019/05/03/fran/
Thayaht (Ernesto Michahelles) and the TuTa: http://www.galleriarusso.com/artists/171-thayaht-ernesto-michahelles.html
Fritz Lang (director), Aenne Willkomm (costume design), Metropolis (1927): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0017136/
Various directors, Donna Zakowska (costume design), The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (2017)
Mary Harron (director), Simonetta Mariono (costume design), Alias Grace (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1034007/
Men’s greatcoat (1803): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89364.html -
Missing episodes?
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Inspired by a recent event at Autograph ABP in London we talk about colourism and film. See links below.
Celeste Bell and Zoë Howe, Dayglo!: The Creative Life of Poly Styrene (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/dayglo/celeste-bell/zoe-howe/9781785586163
Jordan Mooney and Cathi Unsworth, Defying Gravity: Jordan’s Story (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/defying-gravity/cathi-jordan/unsworth/9781785588365
Vivien Goldman, Revenge of the She-Punks: A Feminist Music History from Poly Styrene to Pussy Riot (2019): https://guardianbookshop.com/revenge-of-the-she-punks-9781477316542
Colourism and Photography, Past Event at Autograph (2 July 2019): https://autograph.org.uk/events/colourism-and-photography
Nadia Latif, It’s lit! How film finally learned to light black skin, The Guardian online (21 September 2017): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2017/sep/21/its-lit-how-film-finally-learned-how-to-light-black-skin
Lorna Roth, Looking at Shirley, the Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, and Cognitive Equity, Canadian Journal of Communication, Volume 34, Number 1 (2009): https://www.cjc-online.ca/index.php/journal/article/view/2196
Joan Dash, Daughters of the Dust (1991): https://player.bfi.org.uk/rentals/film/watch-daughters-of-the-dust-1991-online
Angélica Dass, Humanae Project: https://www.angelicadass.com/humanae-project
Broomberg & Chanarin, To photograph the details of a dark horse in low light (2012): http://www.broombergchanarin.com/#/to-photograph-a-dark-horse-in-low-light-1-1/
David Smith, 'Racism' of early colour photography explored in art exhibition, The Guardian online (25 January 2013): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2013/jan/25/racism-colour-photography-exhibition -
We talk about the concept of everyday dress following the Everyday Fashion conference in Huddersfield and Leeds. (Apologies for the helicopter noise!) See links below.
Everyday Fashion: Extraordinary Stories of Ordinary Clothes (27-18 June 2019): https://research.hud.ac.uk/art-design/events/everyday-fashion-conference/
Alfred Gillet Trust (Heritage Collection of C & C Clark Ltd.): https://alfredgilletttrust.org/
M&S Company Archive: https://marksintime.marksandspencer.com/home
Alison Toplis, The Clothing Trade in Provincial England, 1800–1850 (Routledge 2015): https://www.routledge.com/The-Clothing-Trade-in-Provincial-England-18001850-1st-Edition/Toplis/p/book/9781138664449
Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (Bloomsbury 2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-american-look-9781860647635/
Cheryl Buckley and Hazel Clark, Fashion and Everyday Life:
London and New York (Bloomsbury 2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-and-everyday-life-9781474273121/
Sophie Woodward’s publications: https://www.research.manchester.ac.uk/portal/sophie.woodward.html
Daniel Miller’s publications: https://www.ucl.ac.uk/anthropology/people/academic-and-teaching-staff/daniel-miller
Ben Highmore, Everyday Life and cultural theory: an introduction (Routledge 2002): http://sro.sussex.ac.uk/id/eprint/21290/
Ben Highmore, Ordinary Lives: studies in the everyday (Routledge 2011): http://sro.sussex.ac.uk/id/eprint/20103/
Michel de Certeau, The Practice of Everyday Life (2011, first published in 1980): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520271456/the-practice-of-everyday-life
John Styles’ publications: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/John_Styles
King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret (V&A 2019, first published 1931): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/king-of-fashion-the-autobiography-of-paul-poiret.html
Elizabeth Hawes, Fashion is Spinach (Random House 1938): https://archive.org/stream/fashionisspinach00hawerich/fashionisspinach00hawerich_djvu.txt -
We discuss the brilliant new exhibition Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers at Somerset House. See links below.
Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers, Somerset House (12 June – 15 September 2019): https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/get-up-stand-up-now
Zak Ové: http://www.zak-ove.co.uk/
Horace Ové (director), Pressure (1976): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075098/
Horace Ové, The Black Safari (1972): https://www.bfi.org.uk/films-tv-people/4ce2b6f601fde
Normski: http://www.normskiphotography.com/
Barbara Walker: https://www.barbarawalker.co.uk/
David Hammons: https://www.moma.org/artists/2486
Sanford Biggers: http://sanfordbiggers.com/
Marlon James: https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/authors/240287/marlon-james
Hank Willis Thomas: https://www.hankwillisthomas.com/
Campbell Addy: https://campbelladdy.com/
Nick Cave at Jack Shainman Gallery: https://www.jackshainman.com/artists/nick-cave/
Ari Haque: https://ari-potter.com/ -
We discuss the allure of 1930s gangster style, as seen in American and Japanese films. Links are below.
Holly Marler’s collection for Liberty London (June 2019): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/liberty-london-fashion
Documenting Fashion Blog: http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/
Rich Cohen, The Original Gangster Style, New York Times (10 June 2019):
https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/10/fashion/the-original-gangster-style-guy.html
Mervyn LeRoy (director), Little Caesar (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0021079/
Albert Parker (director), The Black Pirate (1926): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0016654/
Yasujirô Ozu (director), Walk Cherfully (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020980/
The Ozu Collection – The Gangster Films, BFI (1929-1933): https://www.bfi.org.uk/blu-rays-dvds/ozu-collection-gangster-films
Frank R. Strayer, Rough House Rosie (1927): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0018345/
Pamela Hutchison, Walk Cheerfully (1930: Yasujiro Ozu’s Toe-Tapping Tough Guys, Silent London (8 May 2018): https://silentlondon.co.uk/2018/05/08/walk-cheerfully-1930-yasijuro-ozus-toe-tapping-tough-guys/
George Cukor (director), Dinner at Eight (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0018345/ -
We discuss the fascinating archive of technical menswear at Westminster University. See links below.
Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.mensweararchive.com/
Westminster Menswear Archive database: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/westminster-menswear-archive
Westminster Menswear Archive IG: https://www.instagram.com/menswear_archive/?hl=en
Video about the Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEDoqc2NMgY
Westminster Menswear Archive - Item 2016.138 - Padded Shooting Jacket: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/2016-138
Example of Chinese Fighter Pilot High Altitude Partial Pressure Suit: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/china-air-force-mig-23-fighter-pilot-500884658
Massimo Osti Archive: https://www.massimoosti.com/the-archive/mission/
Gunner Park, The Uncompromising World of Carol Christian Poell, Grailed (19 May 2017): https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/carol-christian-poell-master-class
W. David Marx, Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style (Basic Books 2015): https://www.basicbooks.com/titles/w-david-marx/ametora/9780465059737/
Bernard Rudofsky, Are Clothes Modern? An essay on contemporary apparel (Paul Theobald 1947): https://www.moma.org/documents/moma_catalogue_3159_300063439.pdf -
We discuss which painting we would most like to live in ... See links below.
Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier
François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849
Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait
Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych
Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/
John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (1897): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/38.104/
Wash Westmoreland (director), Colette (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5437928/
James Jacques Tissot, Frederick Burnaby, National Portrait Gallery, London (1870): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00932/Frederick-Burnaby
François-Hubert Drouais, Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame, National Portrait Gallery, London (1763-4): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/francois-hubert-drouais-madame-de-pompadour-at-her-tambour-frame
Otto Dix, Bildnis der Journalistin Sylvia von Harden, Centre Pompidou (1926): https://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/resource/cjyXKB7/rzEpd6
August Sander, Sekretärin beim Westdeutscher Rundfunk in Köln (1931): https://art.rmngp.fr/fr/library/artworks/august-sander_sekretarin-beim-westdeutscher-rundfunk-in-koln_epreuve-gelatino-argentique_1931 -
We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below.
Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/
See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil
See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/
Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/
Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/
Rebecca Arnold, ‘Heroin Chic’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 3 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779151405
Jake Hall, ‘Reframing the life and work of pioneering 90s photographer Davide Sorrenti’, Dazed (24 January 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43027/1/davide-sorrenti-90s-photographer-see-know-evil-film-charles-curran-heroin-chic
James Cameron (director), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/
Louise Krasniewicz and Michael Blitz, The Intersexts of Linda Hamilton’s Arms (1996): http://chnm.gmu.edu/aq/arnold/arnoldwebpages/intersext.htm and https://www.academia.edu/11345036/The_Intersexts_of_Linda_Hamiltons_Arms_updated_with_references -
We discuss Max Ophüls’ 1952 film Le Plaisir and wonder at the ageing dandy portrayed in the opening section. See links below.
Max Ophüls (director), Le Plaisir (1952): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045034/
Max Ophüls (director), The Mask from Le Plaisir (1952) – with Italian subtitles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoBi1BeT_PQ&t=22s
Robin Wood, ‘Le Plaisir: Life is Movement’ (16 September 2008): https://www.criterion.com/current/posts/548-le-plaisir-life-is-movement
V.F. Perkins, ‘Le Plaisir: “The Mask” and “The Model”’, Film Quarterly (1 September 2009): https://filmquarterly.org/2009/09/01/le-plaisir-the-mask-and-the-model/
Guy de Maupassant, Le Masque (1889): http://colleges.ac-rouen.fr/pompidou/eva/IMG/pdf_Maupassant_-_Le_Masque.pdf
Guy de Maupassant, The Mask (1889): http://www.online-literature.com/maupassant/4272/
Susan Buck-Morss, The Dialectics of Seeing: Walter Benjamin and the Arcades Project (MIT Press 1989): http://susanbuckmorss.info/media/files/the-dialectics-of-seeing.pdf
Peter Wollen, ‘The Concept of Fashion in The Arcades Project’, boundary 2, Volume 30, Number 1, pp. 131-142 (Spring 2003): https://read.dukeupress.edu/boundary-2/article-abstract/30/1/131/6159/The-Concept-of-Fashion-in-The-Arcades-Project
Ulrich Lehmann, Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity (MIT Press 2000): https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/tigersprung
The Unexpurgated Beaton Diaries (Weidenfeld & Nicolson 2002) -
We wonder just what cruise and resort wear are ... Some links below.
Fashion, Self-Reflexivity and the Question of Inspiration, Conference, History of Dress, Research Forum, The Courtauld Institute of Art (11 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-self-reflexivity-and-the-question-of-inspiration
Addressing Images with Nadya Wang, The Courtauld Institute (17 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/addressing-images-3
Fashion Illustration Masterclass with Martin Welch, The Courtauld Institute (17 June 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-masterclass-with-martin-welch
Bobby A. Suarez (director), Cleopatra Wong (1978): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077343/
Resort 2020 Shows on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020
April Calahan, ‘Tina Leser: Global Vision’, in Nancy Deihl (ed), The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers, Bloomsbury (2019)
Rebecca Arnold, 'Behind the Scenes with Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Frissell: Alternative Views of Fashion Photography in Mid-Century America', in Fashion Studies, Volume 1, Issue 1 (2018): https://www.fashionstudies.ca/behind-the-scenes
Alison Toplis, The Smock Frock: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245
Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/ -
We discuss the costumes in Pose, it’s influences and the history of Drag Balls. See links below.
Jennie Livingston (director), Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/
Jennie Livingston: https://www.jennielivingston.com/
Steven Canals, Brad Falchuk, Ryan Murphy (creators), Pose (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7562112/
Jamel Shabazz: http://www.jamelshabazz.com/
Armet Francis photos at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/francis-armet/AUTH319927/
Berry Gordy (director), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/
Monique-Antoine Orosemane (Mounia), ‘Black History Month with Fashion Bomb Daily: Mounia’ (2011): http://fashionbombdaily.com/black-history-month-with-fashion-bomb-daily-mounia/
Debbie Allen in Fame, TV Series, Season 1 (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtgmnhRQir4
RuPaul’s Drag Race (2009-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1353056/
Alyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile: A History of Racial Passing in American Life (Harvard University Press 2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101
bell hooks, ‘Is Paris Burning?’, in Black Looks: Race and Representation (South End Press 1992), pp. 145-156: https://aboutabicycle.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/bell-hooks-black-looks-race-and-representation.pdf
Judith Butler, ‘Gender is Burning: Questions of Appropriation and Subversion’, in Anne McClintock, Aamir Mufti, and Ella Shohat (eds.), Dangerous liaisons: gender, nation, and postcolonial perspectives (University of Minnesota Press 1997), pp. 381–395: http://pica.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/gender-is-burning.pdf
Farid Chenoune, ‘Their ball: Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period’, Modes Pratiques (January 2018): https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html#
Knole: https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/knole
William Larkin paintings at Kenwood House: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/kenwood/history-stories-kenwood/history/collections/
William Larkin, Portrait of a Young Lady, possibly Jane, Lady Thornhaugh, 1617, Yale Center for British Art: https://collections.britishart.yale.edu/vufind/Record/4379629 -
We discuss the ritual of getting dressed with the help of your valet or maid in the early 20th century. See links below.
Myself When Young by Iris Capell, printed by D.G. Seldon Printing Limited, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada (not dated)
John Singer Sargent, The Countess of Essex, Private Collection (1906): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adele_Capell,_Countess_of_Essex#/media/File:The_Countess_of_Essex,_1906.jpg
Henry Poole, Savile Row tailors: https://henrypoole.com/hp/
Le Diable à Paris (1845): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5578064j
Louis Gould, Mommy dressing : a love story, after a fashion (1998): https://archive.org/details/mommydressinglov00goul
Lucinda Hawksley, The great Victorian beard craze, BBC (17 November 2014): https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-30037914
Kate Strasdin, Inside the Royal Wardrobe: A Dress History of Queen Alexandra (2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/inside-the-royal-wardrobe-9781474269933/ -
We discuss Charles Poulsen’s memoirs of life in early 20th century London and his work in the fur trade. See links below.
Charles Poulsen, Scenes from a Stepney youth (1988): https://archive.org/details/scenesfromstepne00poul
Charles Hobday, Charles Poulsen (obituary), The Guardian (14 December 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/dec/14/guardianobituaries.humanities
British Pathé, Fur Coat (1953) – shows nailing: https://www.britishpathe.com/video/fur-coat/query/furrier
Lyon’s Corner House Menu (1914) – no egg mayonnaise: https://www.kzwp.com/lyons1/tariff1914.htm
Photograph of Nippy, Museum of London (1925-1933): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/468522.html -
We discuss Moses Quiquine's wonderful art that crosses time and space, and his exhibition ‘Voodoo Child: Identity, Spirituality & Fashion’ at The Africa Centre in London. See links below.
Moses Quiquine: ‘Voodoo Child’, The Africa Centre, London (22/03/2019 –17/04/2019): https://www.africacentre.org.uk/blog/moses-quiquine-voodoo-child-exhibition/
Moses Quiquine: https://www.instagram.com/mosesquiquine/
Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: Commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai (ed), The social life of things: commodities in cultural perspective (CUP 1986): http://ls-tlss.ucl.ac.uk/course-materials/ANTH7021_68798.pdf -
We talk about the work of some of the artists working with textiles who are part of TJ Boulting's current exhibition Subversive Stitch. See links below.
UCL, The Survey of London, Boulting & Sons (19 May 2017): https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/survey-of-london/2017/05/19/boulting-sons/
Subversive Stitch, TJ Boulting (14 February – 23 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/exhibitionspage/509/subversive-stitch
Subversive Stitch conversation – Charlotte Edey, Lilah Fowler and Celia Pym (20 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/newsandevents
Roszika Parker, The Subversive Stitch (2010, first published 1984): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-subversive-stitch-9781848852839/
Goldsmiths, University of London, The Subversive Stitch Revisited: The Politics of Cloth: https://www.gold.ac.uk/subversivestitchrevisited/
Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir / Shoplifter: http://www.shoplifter.us/
Emma de Clercq, We meet Icelandic artist Shoplifter at her hair-filled Brooklyn studio, Infrigne (20 October 2016): https://www.infringe.com/shoplifter/
Nick Cave: http://nickcaveart.com/Main/Intro.html
Nick Cave, Soundsuits – Pogo Group, Denver Art Museum (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3UtqxQS1hk
James Merry: https://www.jtmerry.com/
Olga Frantskevich, biography at The Gallery of Everything, London: https://www.gallevery.com/artists/olga-frantskevich
Judith Scott, Creative Growth Art Centre: http://www.creativegrowth.org/artists/judith-scott/
Judith Scott – Bound and Unbound, Brooklyn Museum, New York (24 October 2014 – 29 March 2015): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/judith_scott/
Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/ -
We discuss McDermott & McGough’s inspiring Oscar Wilde Temple at Studio Voltaire in Clapham, and its link to Aesthetic Dress.
McDermott & McGough, The Oscar Wilde Temple, Studio Voltaire, London (3 October 2018 – 28 April 2019): https://www.studiovoltaire.org/exhibitions/
The Oscar Wilde Temple: https://www.oscarwildetemple.org/
McDermott & McGough: http://www.mcdermottandmcgough.com/
V&A, An Introduction to the Aesthetic Movement (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-the-aesthetic-movement
Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art & Reason – Dress Reformers of the 19th Century (John Murray 1974)
Liberty silk dress made by Denyer & Co, Museum of London (1881-82): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/77441.html
Opera Cape made of Liberty fabric, Museum of London (1893-98): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89403.html -
We discuss our love of Molly Goddard and other female designers making clothes that women want to wear now.
Molly Goddard: https://mollygoddard.com/
Dress Portrait, Molly Goddard and Sarah Edwards, Chelsea Space (23 January - 1 March 2019): http://www.chelseaspace.org/archive/dress-portrait-info.html
Ana Kinsella, How a Dress Can Be More Than a Commodity, Frieze (20 February 2019): https://frieze.com/article/how-dress-can-be-more-commodity
Killing Eve, Series 1:2, Costume designer Phoebe de Gaye (15 September 2018): https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p06kc8mb/killing-eve-series-1-2-ill-deal-with-him-later
Lily-Evelina England, Fashioning the dangerous woman in 'Killing Eve' (23 November 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2018/11/23/fashioning-the-dangerous-woman-in-killing-eve/
Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/ and https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/
Batsheva: https://www.batsheva.com
The Vampire's Wife: https://thevampireswife.com/
Horror Vacui: https://horror-vacui.com/
Chloe Malle, Pioneer Women Are Roaming the City, The New York Times (12 September 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/12/style/prairie-woman-style-batsheva-doen.html
Carl Williams, Revival: Laura Ashley, Apollo (27 September 2013): https://www.apollo-magazine.com/revival-laura-ashley/
Reina Lewis, Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith (2013): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/modest-fashion-9781780763828/
Dressed: The History of Fashion podcast, Cult Style: an interview with Sarah Byrd (26/02/2019): https://www.dressedpodcast.com/podcasts/cult-style-an-interview-with-sarah-byrd.htm -
We discuss Valerie Steele's recent talk at the London College of Fashion about the current exhibition at and history of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum in New York. See also links below.
Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (8 February 2019 – 20 April 2019):
https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/exhibitionism.php
Valerie Steele and Colleen Hill (eds): Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (2019):
http://www.skira.net/en/books/exhibitionism
Exhibiting Fashion Symposium, FIT (8 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/symposium/exhibiting-fashion/index.php
50 Years of The Museum at FIT: Fashion as Cultural Heritage (14 March 2019):
https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/index.php#MFIT
Walter Vecchio (photos) and Robert Riley (text), The Fashion Makers: A Photographic Record (Crown Publisher 1968)
Annalee Gold, ‘Talks with a Costume Conservator’, American Craft (October/November 1981): http://www.bettykirke.com/articles/Craftmag/acm.html
Judith Clark and Amy de la Haye with Jeffrey Horsley, Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After 1971(Yale University Press 2014): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300125795/exhibiting-fashion
Julia Petrov, Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the display of dress (Bloomsbury 2019): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-history-museums-9781350048997/
Lou Taylor, Establishing Dress History (Manchester University Press 2005)
Centre for Fashion Curation at LCF: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/research-centres/centre-for-fashion-curation# -
We discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below.
Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/
Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/
Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/
Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html - Show more