Bande à part

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  00:28:06

  Anni Albers & 1930s Fashion

  Bande à part 3 days ago starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss two exhibitions that opened in London this week: Anni Albers at Tate Modern and Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs at the Fashion & Textile Museum. See links below.
  
  Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London: https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers
  
  Stiftelsen Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum, Stockholm: http://www.kasiden.se/english-summary/
  
  Paridise Mill and The Silk Museum, Macclesfield: https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/
  
  Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs, Fashion & Textile Museum, London: https://www.ftmlondon.org/

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  00:39:05

  Schloss Vogelöd & Frida Kahlo

  Bande à part 7 Oct starstar_outlinestar_outlinestar_outlinestar_outline add

  We consider the wonders of menswear prompted by Murnau's 1921 film Schloss Vogelöd and discuss the V&A Museum’s current Frida Kahlo exhibition. See links below.
  
  Fritz Murnau (director), Schloss Vogelöd (1921): https://www.murnau-stiftung.de/movie/812
  
  Antony Beevor, The Mystery of Olga Chekhova (2005): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/54988/the-mystery-of-olga-chekhova/9780141017648.html
  
  Roberta S. Kremer (ed), Broken Threads: The Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria (2006): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/broken-threads-9781845206604/
  
  Frida Kahlo exhibition, V&A (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up
  
  Museo Frida Kahlo, Mexico: http://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/en/the-blue-house/
  
  Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Friday Kahlo Museum, Mexico City (2012 – 2013): https://judithclarkcostume.com/exhibitions/appearances-can-be-deceiving-the-dresses-of-frida-kahlo/
  
  Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/6gICPDLcNAzkJA
  
  Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern, Brooklyn Museum (2017): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/georgia_okeeffe_living_modern
  
  Conformismo e trasgressione: il guardaroba di Gabriele d'Annunzio (1988): http://booksinprogressmilano.tumblr.com/post/157952827051/il-guardaroba-di-gabriele-dannunzio-conformismo

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  00:28:55

  Fashion Weeks & Us

  Bande à part 30 Sep starstarstarstarstar add

  We devise the Bande à part Manifesto of acceptable approaches to fashion design based on our observations of the current collections. See links below.
  
  Chromat Spring 2019 RTW on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chromat#collection
  
  Pyer Moss: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss#collection
  
  Derrick Adams: http://www.derrickadams.com/
  
  Matty Bovan: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/matty-bovan#collection
  
  Dries Van Noten: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten#collection
  
  Marc Jacobs: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs#collection
  
  Dice Kayek: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dice-kayek#collection

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  00:33:46

  Interwar London & Art Smith

  Bande à part 23 Sep starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the hidden diversity of interwar London and the wonders of Art Smith’s Modernist jewellery. See also links below.
  
  Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies (1930): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/57050/vile-bodies/9780141182872.html
  
  Marc Matera, Black London: The Imperial Metropolis and Decolonization in the Twentieth Century (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520284302/black-london
  
  Black Chronicles (NPG/ABP project 2016): https://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/blackchronicles/explore/autograph-abp
  
  Christopher Reed, 'A Vogue That Dare Not Speak its Name: Sexual Subculture During the Editorship of Dorothy Todd, 1922–26', Fashion Theory (2006): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270406778050996
  
  Patrick Elliott and Sacha Llewellyn, 'True to Life: British Realist Painting in the 1920s & 1930s' (2017): https://www.nationalgalleries.org/shop/all-books/national-galleries-scotland-books/true-life-british-realist-painting-1920s-1930s-exhibition-book
  
  Hearts magazine: http://heartsmagazine.net/
  
  Art Smith @ Cooper Hewitt: https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/people/18049319/

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  00:20:03

  Kevyn Aucoin & Documenting Beauty

  Bande à part 16 Sep starstarstarstarstar_outline add

  We discuss the Kevyn Aucoin documentary and various makeup styles we’d like to try. Plus, why are there so many documentaries now? Links to some of what we talk about below.
  
  Lori Kaye, Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & the Beast in Me (2017):
  https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6972670/
  
  Lottie Winter on Kevyn Aucoin (2017): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/who-is-kevyn-aucoin-everything-you-need-to-know
  
  Way Bandy: https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/15/obituaries/way-bandy-makeup-artist-and-best-selling-writer-dies.html
  
  Visage, Fade to Grey (1982): https://youtu.be/UMPC8QJF6sI
  
  David Bowie, Ashes to Ashes (1980): https://youtu.be/CMThz7eQ6K0
  
  Sandy Linter, Disco Beauty (1979): http://sparklearmy.com/blog/?p=287
  
  Jennifer Lopez, Waiting For Tonight (1999): https://youtu.be/_66jPJVS4JE

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  00:25:46

  Mail Order Fashion

  Bande à part 25 Aug starstarstarstarstar add

  We talk about the appeal of buying clothes from catalogues. See links below.
  Marshall & Snelgrove catalogue, 'The Visits of Veronica' (1929): http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/mol-77-150-39
  Kays catalogues: https://www.worc.ac.uk/discover/world-of-kays-website-charts-20th-century-fashions%20.html

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  00:29:19

  Bonjour Tristesse

  Bande à part 18 Aug starstarstarstarstar_outline add

  We discuss the significance of costume in Otto Preminger’s film Bonjour Tristesse (1958). See also links below.
  
  François Sagan, Bonjour Tristesse (1954): http://www.francoisesagan.fr/4.aspx
  
  Otto Preminger, Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/
  
  Saul Bass title sequence: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfxT7CzB94
  
  Photos by Lionel Kazan taken during the filming: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-culture/fashion-books/diaporama/lionel-kazan-remembers-the-filming-of-bonjour-tristesse/34055

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  00:34:38

  Department Stores

  Bande à part 12 Aug starstarstarstarstar_outline add

  We discuss department stores we have known and loved.
  
  Kaufhaus Weyrauch: https://www.kaufhaus-weyrauch.de/historie/
  
  Morleys Brixton Department Store: https://www.morleysbrixton.co.uk/about-morleys/
  
  Bon Marché Department Store Brixton: https://thedepartmentstore.com/history/
  
  Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (2008): https://tinyurl.com/y83uz547
  
  Emile Zola, The Ladies' Paradise (1883): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-ladies-paradise-9780199536900
  
  John Guillermin (director), The Crowded Day (1954): http://www.screenonline.org.uk/film/id/1408156/index.html
  
  William Wyler (director), Mrs Miniver (1942): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035093/

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  00:30:36

  Beauty & Rihanna

  Bande à part 5 Aug starstarstarstarstar add

  We wonder what natural makeup is, and marvel at Nick Knight’s photographs of Rihanna.
  
  Blog post by cosmeticsandskin about Pan-Cake Make-Up: https://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/cake.php
  
  Vogue UK September 2018 Issue Cover: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/rihanna-september-cover-british-vogue-2018
  
  Madame Yevonde: http://www.madameyevonde.com/
  
  Azuma Makoto: http://azumamakoto.com/
  
  Azuma Makoto making iced flowers for Dries van Noten (2015): https://youtu.be/4y8h5bh30-o
  
  Victor Stiebel's Overalls for Constance Spry Ltd at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1276042/overalls-stiebel-victor/

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  00:31:39

  Vivienne Westwood & Fashion Documentaries

  Bande à part 29 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the recent Vivienne Westwood film and ponder what we want from fashion documentaries.
  
  Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4378628/
  
  Gillian Greenwood, Vivienne Westwood (1990, episode of The South Bank Show): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1574390/
  
  Douglas Keeve, Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

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  00:29:23

  Smithereens & Modern Jewellery

  Bande à part 21 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the film Smithereens and early 1980s fashion, and what we value in Modern Jewellery.
  
  Susan Seidelman (director), Smithereens (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0084698/fullcredits
  
  Interview with Susan Berman (1982): https://player.vimeo.com/video/277148700
  
  Maripol: http://www.maripol.com/who-i-am
  
  Maribeth Keane & Jessica Lewis on Modernist Jewellery (2009): https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/an-interview-with-modernist-studio-jewelry-collector-marbeth-schon/

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  00:32:08

  Antonio Lopez & 1970s Realness

  Bande à part 15 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the brilliant Antonio Lopez documentary and ponder on the relationship between 1970s fashion as seen in magazines versus what was worn on the street.
  
  Fendi campaign (2018): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a22102910/north-west-kim-kardashian-fendi-campaign/
  
  Matti Suuronen, Futuro House (1968): http://www.thefuturohouse.com/
  
  James Crump, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco (2018): http://sexfashiondisco.com/
  
  Marguerite Duras, Baxter, Vera Baxter (1977): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074190/fullcredits

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  00:34:58

  Fashion Film & Queer Eye

  Bande à part 8 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We talk about the Archaeology of Fashion Film conference and Queer Eye.
  
  Archaeology of Fashion Film: http://archfashfilm.arts.ac.uk/
  
  Stella Scott, The Performers (2017): https://www.stellascott.net/the-performers
  
  Isaac Lock, Black (2018): http://somesuch.co/directors/isaac-lock/reel/black/
  
  Vitoria de Mello Franco, Divinas (2018): https://www.nowness.com/story/divinas-victoria-de-mello-franco
  
  Queer Eye (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7259746/

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  00:28:21

  Capsule Wardrobes & Timeless Style

  Bande à part 1 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss holiday packing and capsule wardrobes, and just what makes certain people’s style so visually compelling.
  
  The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Galina: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989
  
  Issue 1 of Fashion Studies: https://www.fashionstudies.ca/issue-1
  
  Alison Matthews David, Fashion Victims (2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-victims-9781472577740/

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  00:30:12

  Finishing School & Edie Beale

  Bande à part 24 Jun starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the wonders of pre-code film Finishing School, and think about Edie Beale’s fashion sense as seen in the new film That Summer.
  
  George Nichols Jr. & Wanda Tuchock (directors), Finishing School (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025117/
  
  Women Film Pioneers: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/ccp-wanda-tuchock/
  
  Göran Olsson (director), That Summer (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7057306/

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  00:32:38

  Documenting & Drawing Fashion

  Bande à part 17 Jun starstar_outlinestar_outlinestar_outlinestar_outline add

  We discuss looking at Antonio and Bouché drawings and the intricacies of cataloguing fashion in the museum.
  
  Gray M.C.A: https://www.graymca.com/
  
  Velwyn: http://www.velwyn.com/
  
  Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/
  
  What Do We Want From Fashion Writing And Imagery Now?: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/what-do-we-want-from-fashion-writing-and-imagery-now

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  00:33:20

  Society Ladies & Illustratrors

  Bande à part 10 Jun starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss World War I London society fashions as seen in Tatler and The Sketch, and the fashion illustration events at The Courtauld Institute.
  
  Photographs of Bertram Park: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person.php?LinkID=mp05646&role=art&displayNo=60
  
  Fashion Illustration Now (15 June 2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-now
  
  Kenneth Paul Block: https://www.societyillustrators.org/kenneth-paul-block
  
  Kenneth Paul Block exhibition at mfa Boston (2015-16): https://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/kenneth-paul-block
  
  La Mode en Peinture (published 1982-c.1990): https://www.instagram.com/p/BMtb1RihNpq/?hl=en

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  00:37:55

  Mock Weddings & The Battle Of Versailles

  Bande à part 20 May starstarstarstarstar_half add

  We discuss photographs of mock weddings and cross-dressing and the notorious 1973 ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show.
  
  Under Cover: A Secret History of Cross-Dressers: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibition/under-cover-secret-history-cross-dressers
  
  Sebastien Lifshitz: http://sebastienlifshitz.com/
  
  Bambi (Marie-Pierre Pruvot): https://www.bambi-officiel.com/tout-sur-bambi/
  
  Versailles '73: American Runway Revolution (2013): http://www.versailles73movie.com/
  
  Review of Robin Ghivan, The Battle of Versailles (2015): https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/books/review/the-battle-of-versailles-by-robin-givhan.html

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  00:30:24

  Passing & Performance

  Bande à part 13 May starstarstarstar_halfstar_outline add

  We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance.
  
  Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities
  
  Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html
  
  Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101
  
  Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/

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  00:32:38

  Fancy Dress & Fashion Photos

  Bande à part 5 May starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close.
  
  Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html
  
  A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/
  
  Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/
  
  V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room
  
  Martin Munkacsi at ICP: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/martin-munkacsi?all/all/all/all/0

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