Episodes

  • We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below.

    Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man

    Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054167/

    Alfred Hitchcock (director), Blackmail (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0019702/

    Alfred Hitchcock (director), Harry Kress (wardrobe), North by Northwest (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053125/

    Ralph Ellison, The Invisible Man (first published in 1952): https://www.penguin.co.uk/articles/2016/invisible-man-by-ralph-ellison/

    Gordon Parks, Invisible Man (1952): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/invisible-man-1952/artworks?view=slider

  • We reflect on Rebecca’s MA Documenting Fashion students’ brilliant work this year and discuss the exciting virtual exhibitions ‘Jalebi’ by Ahluwalia and Laurence Ellis, and ‘"My Heart will always be in Brixton": Olive Morris’ by Linett Kamala with the Black Cultural Archives on Google Arts and Culture. See links below.

    Courtauld Institute of Art, MA History of Art Special Option: Documenting Fashion: Modernity, Films and Image in America and Europe, 1920-1960: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/postgraduate/ma-history-art/documenting-fashion

    http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/

    V&A, London, fashion exhibitions: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/exhibiting-fashion-victoria-and-albert-museum/5wKyuCOYoCgBIA?hl=en

    Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, fashion publications: https://tinyurl.com/tca9for

    Kwame Brathwaite: https://www.kwamebrathwaite.com/

    Tanisha C. Ford: http://www.tanishacford.com/

    The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/

    Ahluwalia: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/

    Jalebi, photographed by Laurence Ellis: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/jalebi-shop/jalebi

    Laurence Ellis: https://www.laurenceellis.com/

    ‘My heart will always be in Brixton’: Olive Morris - An exhibition of artwork by Linett Kamala inspired by the activism of Olive Morris, Google Arts & Culture (2020): https://artsandculture.google.com/story/XwWReH6wADe8xA

    Linett Kamala: https://linettkamala.com/

    Black Cultural Archives: https://blackculturalarchives.org/

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  • Armando Iannucci (director), Suzie Harman, Robert Worley (costume designers), The Personal History of David Copperfield (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6439020/

    George Cukor (director), Dolly Tree (costume & wardrobe), David Copperfield (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026266/

    Leigh Singer, ‘“The story is the least interesting part”: Armando Iannucci on adapting David Copperfield’, Sight & Sound magazine (21 January 2020): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/sight-sound-magazine/interviews/armando-iannucci-personal-history-david-copperfield-casting-modern-dickens-adaptation

    Melissa Bennett & Iyamide Thomas, ‘Meet the Krios of Sierra Leone’, Museum of London Discover (26 September 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/meet-krios-sierra-leone-docklands

    London’s Fashion Alphabet – K for Krio, Museum of London (2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet/londons-fashion-alphabet-k

    Beatrice Behlen and Christine Supianek, ‘Peopling the Pleasure Garden: Creating an Immersive Display at the Museum of London’, in Mary M. Brooks and Dinah D. Eastop (editors), Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress (The Getty Conservation Institute, 2017): https://www.getty.edu/conservation/publications_resources/books/refashioning_redress.html

    Alison Toplis, ‘Smock Frocks: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue’, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245

    Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: www.smockfrock.co.uk

  • Rebecca is telling Beatrice about an online event she attended: a conversation with photographer and historian Jamel Shabazz, organised by Nights Global:. See links below.

    Nights Global: https://nightsglobal.com/ and @nightsglobal

    Bisoye Babalola: @bisoyebabalola

    Jamel Shabazz: http://jamelshabazz.com/index.html and @jamelshabazz

    Panel Members: @dupremethegod (@blackcotten_), @youngparis, Lamel Logan, Pamela Badila and Joe Cooper

    Jamel Shabazz, Ernie Paniccioli, Back in the Days: Photographs by Jame Shabazz (first published 2001): http://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/back-in-the-days/

    Jamel Shabazz, A Time before Crack (first published 2005): https://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/a-time-before-crack-limited-edition/

    Daryoush Haj-Najafi, ‘Jamel Shabazz: A Time Before Crack, Vice (27 May 2011): https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/qba9xm/jamel-shabazz-a-time-before-crack

    The Badila Family: https://www.facebook.com/TheBadilaFamily/

    Derwent Pencil Museum, Keswick, Cumbria: https://www.derwentart.com/en-gb/c/about/company/derwent-pencil-museum

  • We talk about two documentaries about the Black Panther Party shot in 1968 by Agnès Varda: Black Panthers and Huey. See links below.

    Agnès Varda (director), Black Panthers (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0209942/

    Currently (June 2020) available to watch here: https://www.troiscouleurs.fr/le-festival-a-la-maison/court-metrage-black-panthers-dagnes-varda-a-voir-sur-mk2-curiosity/

    Agnès Varda (director), Huey (1968): https://www.facebook.com/political.film/videos/1617020975008840/

    Agnès Varda Q&A, Black Panthers and Other Short Works, Film at Lincoln Centre (12 May 2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eo81Grb8A9Y

    Delphine Letort, ‘Agnès Varda: filming the Black Panthers struggle’, ORDA (L'Ordinaire des Amériques) 217 (2014): https://journals.openedition.org/orda/1646 and https://doi.org/10.4000/orda.1646

    Janelle Harris, ‘The Rank and File Women of the Black Panther Party and Their Powerful Influence’, Smithsonian Magazine (4 March 2019): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/rank-and-file-women-black-panther-party-their-powerful-influence-180971591/

    Angela Y. Davis, ‘Afro Images: Politics, Fashion, and Nostalgia’, Critical Inquiry, Vol. 21, No. 1 (Autumn, 1994): https://www.jstor.org/stable/1343885

    Black is Beautiful 1962, The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/

    Curtis Austin, Black Panthers White Lies, TEDxOhioStateUniversity (6 April 2016): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPN8LHVeFYA

    Willi Smith: Street Couture, Cooper Hewitt, New York (2020): https://www.cooperhewitt.org/willi-smith-street-couture/

  • We talk about Virigina Woolf’s 1924 short story ‘The New Dress’ and Lisa Cohen’s article about Woolf’s “frock consciousness”. See links below.

    https://www.instagram.com/roisinmurphyofficial/

    https://bonhomme.fr/#

    The New Dress, Excerpt from Viriginia Woolf’s 1927 [sic] short story, by Vestoj Editors: http://vestoj.com/the-new-dress/

    The New Dress read by Carolyn Pickles, BBC (21 June 2019): https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07d4lyy

    Lisa Cohen, ‘”Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the open secret, and the Language of Fashion’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779155032

    Georg Simmel, ‘Fashion’, American Journal of Sociology, Volume 62, No. 6 (May 1957): https://www.jstor.org/stable/2773129

    Lisa Cohen, All We Know: Three Lives (2012): https://wesscholar.wesleyan.edu/englbooks/58/

    R.S. Koppen, Virginia Woolf: Fashion & Literary Modernity, Edinburgh University Press (2009):
    https://edinburghuniversitypress.com/book-virginia-woolf-fashion-and-literary-modernity.html

    Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus (1831): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/1051/1051-h/1051-h.htm

  • We talk about the amazing colours, the light, clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film The Red Shoes. See links below.

    Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/

    Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards
    Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven
    Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli
    Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser

    Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html

    Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer

    Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800

    Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview

    Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

  • We talk about the books we have been reading (good and bad) and Fashion Interpretations, the AHRC-funded networking project Rebecca runs with Judith Clark, which focuses ‘on the ways modern and contemporary fashion is continually reinterpreted through varied mediums’. See links below.

    Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/

    Michael Arlen, The Green Hat (1924): https://www.capuchin-classics.co.uk/capuchin/site/product_rpt.asp?Catid=235

    Michael Arlen, May Fair (1925)

    Hallie Rubenhold, The Five: The Untold Lives of the Women Killed by Jack the Ripper (2019): https://www.hallierubenhold.com/books/the-five/

    Fashion Interpretations website: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/

    Fashion Interpretations Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fashioninterpretations/

  • We discuss the list Love Magazine asked Rebecca to make of 10 lesser known designers who have helped to shape fashion. See links below.

    Rebecca Arnold, '10 Lesser-Known Fashion Designers Who Have Shaped The Industry', Love (5 May 2020): https://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/article/10-lesser-known-fashion-designers-who-have-shaped-the-industry

    Callot Soeurs: Jessamyn Hatcher and Pari Dukovic, 'Twenty-One Dresses', The New Yorker (23 March 2015): https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/twenty-one-dresses

    Lucile: https://www.vogue.com/article/a-scandal-survives-the-story-of-fashion-designer-and-titanic-passenger-lucile

    Madeleine Vionnet: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1936-vionnet-carnival-dress/

    Claire McCardell: http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/0

    Geoffrey Beene: https://www.si.edu/object/nmah_360606

    Ossie Clark: Osman Ahmed, 'The Fabulous Femininity of Ossie Clark', AnOther (25 August 2016): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8992/the-fabulous-femininity-of-ossie-clark

    Stephen Sprouse: https://www.thestephensprousebook.com/

    Claude Montana: https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2013/09/claude-montana-king-paris-couture

    Romeo Gigli: https://www.encyclopedia.com/people/literature-and-arts/fashion-biographies/romeo-gigli

    Miguel Adrover: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/miguel-adrover

    Willi Smith: Jenny Comita, 'How will designer Willi Smith be remembered?', W Magazine (28 January 2020): https://www.wmagazine.com/story/willi-smith-street-couture-alexandra-cunningham-cameron/

    Sterling Ruby: Luke Leitch, 'Artist Sterling Ruby Turns Fashion Designer, Launches S.R. Studio. LA. CA. at Pitti Uomo', Vogue (14 June 2019): https://www.vogue.com/article/artist-sterling-ruby-turns-fashion-designer-launches-sr-studio-la-ca-at-pitti-uomo

  • We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below.

    Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/

    Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2

    MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/margiela/galliera-1989-2009

  • We talk about the clothes of our favourite characters from the fabulous Peter Bogdanovich film What’s Up, Doc? See links below.

    Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume designer), What’s Up, Doc? (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069495/

    Aaron Hunter, Polly Platt: Authorship by Design (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsXW2H3_wIo

    Adam Hulin (director), By Bogdanovich, part 1 (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw2FMVsZdTA

    Howard Hawks (director), Howard Greer (costume design, gowns), Bringing Up Baby (1938): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029947/

    Marimekko: https://company.marimekko.com/en/about-marimekko/history/

    Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), Paper Moon (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070510/

    Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), The Last Picture Show (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067328/

  • We discuss our favourite designers, wondering what criteria we should use to decide on our favourite designers ... See links below.

    Hans Holbein, Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan (National Gallery, London, 1538):
    https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-holbein-the-younger-christina-of-denmark-duchess-of-milan

    Witt Library: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/resources/image-libraries/witt-library

    Headdress Frames, Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/search/#!/results?terms=headdress%20frame

    Joanna Freedman, A study of female dress worn in England, c.1525-1545: with specific reference to the Lisle Letters, Courtauld Institute of Art Dissertation (1991): https://tinyurl.com/qmk68ft

    Simone Rocha: https://simonerocha.com/

    Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet and Classicism’, in Vionnet, Judith Clark Costume (15 March – 16 April 2001): https://judithclarkcostume.com/wp-content/uploads/Judith-Clark-16pp-Vionnet.pdf

    Elsa Schiaparelli: https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/21-place-vendome/the-life-of-elsa/

    Pierre Balmain, My Years and Seasons (Cassell 1964): https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/My_Years_and_Seasons.html?id=Hv7bAAAAMAAJ

    Louiseboulanger, Evening dress, Metropolitan Museum of Art (1928): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83209

    Rebecca Arnold, 30-Second Fashion (Ivy Press 2016): https://www.quartoknows.com/books/9781782406679/30-Second-Fashion.html

    Jeanne Lanvin: https://www.lanvin.com/fi/maison/jeanne-lanvin/

    Jeanne Lanvin, Palais Galliera, Paris (8 March - 23 August 2015): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin

    ‘Indiscrétions : le New Look 49’, Pierre Balmain, Jacques Fath and Maggy Rouff (1949): https://www.ina.fr/video/AFE85002936/indiscretions-le-new-look-49-video.html

    Dans l’atelier de Sonia Rykiel, Archive INA (1969): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnbc3z40ZsU

    ‘Helmut Lang: The Searching Stays with You', 032c (19 December 2013): https://032c.com/helmut-lang-the-searching-stay-with-you

    'Romeo Gigli on Photographic Collaborations', AnOther (31 July 2012): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/2094/romeo-gigli-on-photographic-collaborations

    Maison Margiela, Fall 2012 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-couture/maison-martin-margiela

    Jean-Paul Gaultier: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/fr-fr/le-createur/

    Katharine Hamnett: https://katharinehamnett.com/

    Dries van Noten: https://www.driesvannoten.com/

  • We talk about the incredible 1915-16 crime serial Les Vampires and its compelling star Musidora AKA Irma Vep ... See links below.

    Louis Feuillade, Les Vampires (1915-16): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0006206/

    Les Vampires on archive.org: https://tinyurl.com/rylbufl

    Cinémathèque Française, Musidora sur le web (3 December 2019): https://www.cinematheque.fr/article/1492.html

    Musidora talks to journalist Jean Thévenoz in 1948: https://www.rts.ch/archives/radio/divers/emission-sans-nom/4523749-musidora-la-vamp.html

    Site of Les Amis de Musidora: https://www.musidora.org/

    ‘La vie d’une vamp par Musidora (Ciné-Mondial 1942)', La Belle Equipe(29 June 2015): https://www.la-belle-equipe.fr/2015/06/29/la-vie-dune-vamp-par-musidora-cine-mondial-1942/

    Vicki Callahan, 'Zones of Anxiety: Movement, Musidora, and the Crime Serials of Louis Feuillade' (Wayne State University Press 2005): https://www.wsupress.wayne.edu/books/detail/zones-anxiety

    Palais Galliera, ‘Anatomie d’une Collection’ (2016): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/fr/edition/anatomie-dune-collection (contains photo of one of Musidora’s bodysuits)

    Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d'Or et les Apaches’, Le Blog Gallica (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop

    Ossi Oswalda: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0652661/

    Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/

  • We talk about the TV programmes we currently find solace in - which in our case means Cheer and The Real Housewives – and what they tell us about ourselves, fashion and beauty. See links below.

    Greg Whiteley (director), Cheer (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11426660/

    Scott Dunlop (creator), The Real Housewives of Atlanta (2008-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1252370/

  • We talk about the fabulous Louise Weber, better known as La Goulue, a French Cancan dancer whose photos feature in the Musée de Montmartre in Paris. See links below.

    Musée de Montmartre: https://museedemontmartre.fr/

    Jean Renoir (director), Rosine Delamare (costume design), French Cancan (1955): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0046998/

    La Goulue retrouve Montmartre, 12/13 Paris Ile de France (16 March 1992): https://www.ina.fr/video/PAC02021108/la-goulue-retrouve-montmartre-video.html

    Portrait - La Goulue femme libérée, Télé Matin (1 April 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEjraI9pdeI

    Maryline Martin, La Goulue: Reine du Moulin Rouge (éditions du Rocher 2019): https://www.editionsdurocher.fr/livre/fiche/la-goulue-9782268101200

    Nadine Biss, La Goulue, ARTHive Revue (15 September 2014): https://wheatonarthive.wordpress.com/2014/09/15/la-goulue/

    Michel Souvais, Moi, la Goulue de Tolouse-Lautrec(Publibook des Ecrivains 2008)

    François Gasnault, Nuits parisiennes: Chahut, cancan et galop infernal..., talk coinciding with the exhibition ‘Les nuits parisiennes, du Palais-Royal au Palace’ at l'Hôtel de Ville de Paris 2017-2018
    (2 January 2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGeoPOjIEbA

    Photographic cabinet card showing Kitty Lord, Museum of London (early 20th century): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html

  • We discuss Lisa Immordino Vreeland’s beautifully conceived and edited documentary about Cecil Beaton. See links below.

    Courtauld Institute of Art, Research Forum Events (2020): https://courtauld.ac.uk/research/research-forum/events

    Cecil Beaton, Designs for the ballet Apparitions (1936): https://tinyurl.com/t96zg5r

    Carte de visite of Kitty Lord: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html

    Kitty Lord’s pink boots: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/431352.html

    Lisa Immordino Vreeland (director), Love, Cecil (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5275884/

    Bill Verity (director), Beaton by Bailey (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2205427/

    Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sothebys: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/cecil-beaton-studio-archive

    Cecil Beaton’s royal portraits at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/cecil-beaton

    Cecil Beaton, The Glass of Fashion (first published in 1954): https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847843855/

    Leslie Howard and Maurice Elvey (directors), The Gentle Sex (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035931/

    George Cukor (director), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/

    Vincente Minelli, Charles Walters (directors), Gigi (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051658/

    Vincente Minelli (director), On a clear day you can see forever (1970): (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066181/

    André Previn (music) and Alan Jay Lerner (lyrics), Coco (1969), excerpt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g7o6sjrqcg

  • We discuss Basil Dearden’s fascinating 1959 film Sapphire - which shows the intricacies of identity in post war London. See links below.

    Basil Dearden (director), Julie Harris (costume design), Sapphire (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053242/

    Sapphire on Retrospective’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HYYhQwYZEE

    Sapphire on Reelstreets: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/sapphire/

    Josephine Botting, ‘Remembering Julie Harries: costume designer for Bond and Hitchcock’, BFI (2 June 2015): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/remembering-julie-harris-costume-designer-bond-hitchcock

    ‘The Look of Austerity’, special issue of Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rfft20/21/4?nav=tocList

    Lynda Nead, ‘”Red Taffeta Under Tweed”: the color of post-war clothes’, Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://eprints.bbk.ac.uk/30543/

    Roger Mayne, Southam Street: http://www.rogermayne.com/sstreet/southamstreet.html

    Bryan Forbes (director), Beatrice Dawson (costume design), The L-Shaped Room (1962): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0057239/

  • We discuss the exhibition ‘An English Lady’s wardrobe’ at Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool which features a selection from a very large collection of clothes owned by one woman in the first half of the 20th century. See links below.

    Bassano Studio, Woman modelling bed jacket (1934): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/520641.html

    An English lady’s wardrobe, Walker Art Gallery, National Museums Liverpool (25 October 2019 – 1 March 2020): https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/whatson/walker-art-gallery/exhibition/english-ladys-wardrobe#section--the-exhibition

    Pauline Rushton, ‘Mrs Tinne’s Wardrobe: A Liverpool Lady’s Clothes 1900-1940’ (National Museums Liverpool 2019): https://shop.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/products/mrs-tinnes-wardrobe-a-liverpool-ladys-clothes-1900-1940

  • We discuss two 1940s films - The Gentle Sex (1943) and It Always Rains on Sunday (1947) - and the fascinating ways they portray wartime and post-war femininities. See links below.

    Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London’, Fashion Theory, Vol. 21, Issue 4 (2007): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426

    Claire McCardell, Popover Dress (1942): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.45.71.2ab/

    Vera Maxwell, Jumpsuit (1945): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/155844

    Leslie Howard (director), The Gentle Sex (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035931/

    Robert Hamer (director), Anthony Mendleson (wardrobe supervisor), It Always Rains on Sunday (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040481/

    Arthur La Bern, writer of the novel It Always Rains on Sunday (1945): http://www.london-books.co.uk/authors/arthurlabern.html

    London Locations of It Always rains on Sunday: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/it-always-rains-on-sunday/

    BFI, Introduction to It Always rains on Sunday (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b4Pkl1JgFM

    Imperial War Museum, Anderson Shelters in London (1940): https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205070170

  • We discuss Jean Paul Gaultier’s incredible final show and the wonders of looking at couture clothes in museum storerooms. See links below.

    Rebecca Arnold, Fashion: A Very Short Introduction (OUP 2009): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/fashion-a-very-short-introduction-9780199547906 and https://e.jd.com/30536485.html

    Gaultier Paris – Spring-Summer 2020 Fashion Show: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/en-gb/jpglive/ and https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-couture/jean-paul-gaultier

    Catherine Ringer and Les Rita Mitsouko: http://www.catherineringer.com/

    The Clothworkers’ Centre at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/the-clothworkers-centre-for-the-study-and-conservation-of-textiles-and-fashion

    Paul Poiret, ‘Toujours’ Dress, 1911 (VA&): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O139787/toujours-dress-paul-poiret/

    Paul Iribe, Les Robes de Paul Poiret (1908): https://archive.org/details/lesrobesdepaulpo00irib

    Dress by Madeleine Vionnet, 1937 (V&A): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O319608/dress-vionnet-madeleine/

    Schiaparelli, Evening ensemble, 1938 (V&A): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15665/the-circus-collection-evening-ensemble-elsa-schiaparelli/

    Claire McCardell, Day ensemble, c. 1950 (V&A): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74836/womans-day-ensemble-mccardell-claire/

    Dress Collections in the UK: https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/collections-map/