Bande à part

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  00:25:45

  Black Narcissus & Asta Nielsen

  Bande à part 9 Dec starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the power of costume in Powell & Pressburger’s 1947 film Black Narcissus and the amazing silent film actress Asta Nielsen.
  
  Michael Powell, Emeric Pressburger (directors), Black Narcissus (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039192/
  
  Reviews of Black Narcissus: http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/47_BN/index.html
  
  Asta Nielsen, Die schweigende Muse (Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1979, first published 1945/46)
  
  Asta Nielsen's page on Women Film Pioneers Project: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/asta-nielsen-2/
  
  Urban Gad (director), Afgrunden (1910), dance scene: https://youtu.be/criEcLXgUQ0
  
  Urban Gad (director), Die Suffragette (1913): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0132536
  
  Asta Nielsen Flickr Album, Danish Film Institute / The Film Museum: https://www.flickr.com/photos/36461985@N08/albums/72157630867865856

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  00:39:30

  Atelier E.B & Politicising Fashion

  Bande à part 2 Dec starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the wonderful Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, and wonder about the ethics of using people’s fashion choices for targeting political propaganda. See links below.
  
  Atelier E.B: Passer-by at Serpentine Gallery (2018-19): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/atelier-eb-passer
  
  Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition guide (2018): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/files/downloads/1636.serp_atelier_e.b_guide_aw_no_crops.pdf
  
  Eric Newton, 'First surrealist art exhibition in England - archive, 1936', The Guardian (12/06/2018, originally 12/06/1938): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2018/jun/12/first-surrealist-art-exhibition-in-england-archive-1936
  
  RA Collections Team, 'How to read it: Meredith Frampton’s Still Life' (17/02/2017): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/article/how-to-read-it-meredith-frampton
  
  Marguerite V. Hodge, 'Enigmatic Bodies: Dolls and the Making of Japanese Modernity', Nineteenth-century art worldwide, vol. 12, issue 1 (spring 2013): http://www.19thc-artworldwide.org/spring13/hodge-enigmatic-bodies (mentions Yasumoto Kamehachi)
  
  Gene Moore’s work for Tiffany & Company: https://edan.si.edu/slideshow/slideshowViewer.htm?eadrefid=NMAH.AC.1280_ref113
  
  Lynn Hershman Leeson, Project for Bonvit Teller (1976): http://www.lynnhershman.com/project/site-specific-installations/
  
  Rudolf Belling, Sculptures and Architectures, exhibition at Hamburger Bahnhof, Berlin (2017): https://www.smb.museum/en/exhibitions/detail/rudolf-belling-skulpturen-und-architekturen.html
  
  Mannequin Museum, Wolfgang Knapp, KulturGut: http://www.mannequin-museum.com/
  
  Tag Gronberg, Designs on modernity: Exhibiting the city in 1920s Paris (2003): http://www.manchesteruniversitypress.co.uk/9780719066740/
  
  Rebecca Arnold, 'Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London', Fashion Theory, vol. 21, issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426
  
  Bethan Bide, 'More than window dressing: visual merchandising and austerity in London’s West End, 1945–50', Fashion Theory, vol. 60, issue 7 (2018): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00076791.2017.1400531
  
  Vikram Alexei Kansara, 'Cambridge Analytica Weaponised Fashion Brands to Elect Trump, Says Christopher Wylie', Business of Fashion (29/11/2018): https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/cambridge-analytica-weaponised-fashion-brands-to-elect-trump-says-christopher-wylie
  
  Vanessa Freedman and Jonah Engel Bromwich, 'Cambridge Analytica Used Fashion Tastes to Identify Right-Wing Voters', New York Times (29/11/2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/29/style/cambridge-analytica-fashion-data.html

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  00:30:19

  Jessie Redmon Fauset & Eating Beauty

  Bande à part 25 Nov starstarstarstarstar add

  We talk about Jessie Redmon Fauset's 1928 novel Plum Bun and the affinities between the sense of taste and fashion and beauty. See links below.
  
  Jessie Redmon Fauset, Plum Bun (1928): http://www.beacon.org/Plum-Bun-P136.aspx
  
  Jacquelyn Y. Mclendon, The Politics of Color in the Fiction of Jessie Fauset and Nella Larsen (1995): https://www.upress.virginia.edu/title/2892
  
  Smithsonian, The Scurlocks and Black Washington (2009): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/videos/category/history/the-scurlocks-and-black-washington/
  
  Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/
  
  Sofia Coppola, Marie Antoinette (2006): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720
  
  Rebecca Arnold, '‘The New Rococo: Sofia Coppola And Fashions In Contemporary Femininity’, in Katie Scott and Melissa Hyde, Rococo echo: art, history and historiography from Cochin to Coppola (2014): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/files/2015/09/Rebecca-Arnold-New-Rococo-from-Rococo-Echoes.pdf
  
  Raymond Meier photographs for Harper's Bazaar: http://raymondmeier.com/harpers-bazaar/
  
  Lernert & Sander, Natural Beauty (2011): https://www.nowness.com/story/lernert-sander-natural-beauty

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  00:27:29

  Nita Harvey & Ellen Nolan

  Bande à part 10 Nov starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss artist Ellen Nolan’s fascinating archive of her great aunt Nita Harvey’s stage and film career. See links below.
  
  Nita Harvey Archive page on Ellen Nolan's website: http://www.ellennolan.com/Art/nita/nita.html
  
  Ellen Nolan's blog which contains many Nita Harvey images:
  http://www.ellennolan.com/wp/
  
  'A Beautiful Dream That Went for a Walk', Voice (2 June 1934): https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/218834069
  
  Nita Harvey on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0367663/
  
  You Must Remember This podcast: http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/
  
  Richard Dyer, Stars (1998): http://www.worldcat.org/title/stars/oclc/39370252
  
  Fancy Dress on Screen Archive South East: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/leisure/fancy-dress/

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  00:30:21

  Dress & Autobiography

  Bande à part 4 Nov starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the ways fashion and autobiography intersect - prompted by a visit to see clothes in the Museum of London archive. See links below.
  
  Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye (eds), London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html (article on couture clients features Lady Fox and Lady Delamere)
  
  Photos of Myra Alice (née Newton), Lady Fox at NPG: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp91931/myra-alice-nee-newton-lady-fox
  
  Lady Fox's skating outfit at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/ice-skating-fashion-craze
  
  James Fox, White Mischief (1998, first published 1982): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/103/1034644/white-mischief/9780099766711.html
  
  Michael Radford, White Mischief (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094317/
  
  Lisa Cohen, “Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion, Fashion Theory, Vol. 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270499779155032
  
  Lisa Cohen, “VELVET IS VERY IMPORTANT”: Madge Garland and the Work of Fashion, GLQ - A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies, Vol. 11, Issue 3 (2005): https://read.dukeupress.edu/glq/article-abstract/11/3/371/9851/VELVET-IS-VERY-IMPORTANT-Madge-Garland-and-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext
  
  Iris Marion Young, Throwing Like a Girl And Other Essays in Feminist Philosophy and Social Theory (1999): http://www.iupress.indiana.edu/product_info.php?products_id=806576

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  00:35:51

  Haptic Fashion & Omar Victor Diop

  Bande à part 28 Oct starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the ways clothes feel versus the way they look, and Autograph’s brilliant Omar Victor Diop exhibition. See links below.
  
  Fanshawe mantua at Museum of London (1753): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/85096.html
  
  Lynn Sorge-English, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810 (2011): https://www.routledge.com/Stays-and-Body-Image-in-London-The-Staymaking-Trade-16801810/Sorge-English/p/book/9781138661424
  
  Daniel Miller, Mukulika Banerjee, The Sari (2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-sari-9781847883148/
  
  Honoré-Victorin Daumier, De l'utilité de la crinoline pour frauder l'octroi (1857), Art Institute of Chicago: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/84651
  
  Omar Victor Diop at Autograph (2018): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/liberty-diaspora
  
  Omar Victor Diop website: https://www.omarviktor.com/
  
  Omar Victor Diop interviewed for Paris Photo (2016): https://vimeo.com/190321094
  
  Omar Victor Diop at Design Indaba (2017): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auWl6z733O4
  
  Arpita Shah at Autograph: https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/purdah-the-sacred-cloth
  
  Arpita Shah website: http://arpitashah.com/

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  00:31:25

  Francis Upritchard & Marie Duval

  Bande à part 21 Oct starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the mesmerising exhibition of Frances Upritchard’s work at the Barbican, and enjoy the multi-layered references in Simon Grennan’s book Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval. See links below.
  
  Francis Upritchard: Wetwang Slack (2018): http://sites.barbican.org.uk/wetwangslack/
  
  Francis Upritchard at Kate Macgarry: http://www.katemacgarry.com/artists/francis-upritchard/
  
  Hammer Projects: Francis Upritchard (2014-2015): https://hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2014/hammer-projects-francis-upritchard/
  
  Mackenzie Stevens, An “Unruly Material: Balata in Francis Upritchard’s Practice (2014): https://hammer.ucla.edu/blog/2014/12/an-unruly-material-balata-in-francis-upritchards-practice/
  
  Tessa Giblin, The Borrowings of Francis Upritchard (2017): https://christchurchartgallery.org.nz/bulletin/187/the-borrowings-of-francis-upritchard
  
  In Conversation: Peter Pilotto (2016): https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/2016/11/the-statement-issue/in-conversation-peter-pilotto-amex-francis-upritchard-collaboration
  
  Fenberger House: https://www.fenbergerhouse.com/
  
  The Pruitt-Igoe Myth (2011): http://www.pruitt-igoe.com/
  
  Simon Grennan, Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval (2018): https://www.bookworks.org.uk/node/1943
  
  The Marie Duval Archive: http://www.marieduval.org/
  
  Le Diable à Paris (about second edition): https://blog.paris-libris.com/gavarni-granville-le-diable-a-paris-paris-et-les-parisiens-a-la-plume-et-au-crayon-2/

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  00:28:06

  Anni Albers & 1930s Fashion

  Bande à part 14 Oct starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss two exhibitions that opened in London this week: Anni Albers at Tate Modern and Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs at the Fashion & Textile Museum. See links below.
  
  Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London: https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers
  
  Stiftelsen Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum, Stockholm: http://www.kasiden.se/english-summary/
  
  Paridise Mill and The Silk Museum, Macclesfield: https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/
  
  Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs, Fashion & Textile Museum, London: https://www.ftmlondon.org/

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  00:39:05

  Schloss Vogelöd & Frida Kahlo

  Bande à part 7 Oct starstarstarstar_halfstar_outline add

  We consider the wonders of menswear prompted by Murnau's 1921 film Schloss Vogelöd and discuss the V&A Museum’s current Frida Kahlo exhibition. See links below.
  
  Fritz Murnau (director), Schloss Vogelöd (1921): https://www.murnau-stiftung.de/movie/812
  
  Antony Beevor, The Mystery of Olga Chekhova (2005): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/54988/the-mystery-of-olga-chekhova/9780141017648.html
  
  Roberta S. Kremer (ed), Broken Threads: The Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria (2006): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/broken-threads-9781845206604/
  
  Frida Kahlo exhibition, V&A (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up
  
  Museo Frida Kahlo, Mexico: http://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/en/the-blue-house/
  
  Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Friday Kahlo Museum, Mexico City (2012 – 2013): https://judithclarkcostume.com/exhibitions/appearances-can-be-deceiving-the-dresses-of-frida-kahlo/
  
  Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/6gICPDLcNAzkJA
  
  Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern, Brooklyn Museum (2017): https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/georgia_okeeffe_living_modern
  
  Conformismo e trasgressione: il guardaroba di Gabriele d'Annunzio (1988): http://booksinprogressmilano.tumblr.com/post/157952827051/il-guardaroba-di-gabriele-dannunzio-conformismo

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  00:28:55

  Fashion Weeks & Us

  Bande à part 30 Sep starstarstarstarstar add

  We devise the Bande à part Manifesto of acceptable approaches to fashion design based on our observations of the current collections. See links below.
  
  Chromat Spring 2019 RTW on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chromat#collection
  
  Pyer Moss: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss#collection
  
  Derrick Adams: http://www.derrickadams.com/
  
  Matty Bovan: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/matty-bovan#collection
  
  Dries Van Noten: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten#collection
  
  Marc Jacobs: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs#collection
  
  Dice Kayek: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dice-kayek#collection

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  00:33:46

  Interwar London & Art Smith

  Bande à part 23 Sep starstarstarstar_outlinestar_outline add

  We discuss the hidden diversity of interwar London and the wonders of Art Smith’s Modernist jewellery. See also links below.
  
  Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies (1930): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/57050/vile-bodies/9780141182872.html
  
  Marc Matera, Black London: The Imperial Metropolis and Decolonization in the Twentieth Century (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520284302/black-london
  
  Black Chronicles (NPG/ABP project 2016): https://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/blackchronicles/explore/autograph-abp
  
  Christopher Reed, 'A Vogue That Dare Not Speak its Name: Sexual Subculture During the Editorship of Dorothy Todd, 1922–26', Fashion Theory (2006): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270406778050996
  
  Patrick Elliott and Sacha Llewellyn, 'True to Life: British Realist Painting in the 1920s & 1930s' (2017): https://www.nationalgalleries.org/shop/all-books/national-galleries-scotland-books/true-life-british-realist-painting-1920s-1930s-exhibition-book
  
  Hearts magazine: http://heartsmagazine.net/
  
  Art Smith @ Cooper Hewitt: https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/people/18049319/

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  00:20:03

  Kevyn Aucoin & Documenting Beauty

  Bande à part 16 Sep starstarstarstarstar_outline add

  We discuss the Kevyn Aucoin documentary and various makeup styles we’d like to try. Plus, why are there so many documentaries now? Links to some of what we talk about below.
  
  Lori Kaye, Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & the Beast in Me (2017):
  https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6972670/
  
  Lottie Winter on Kevyn Aucoin (2017): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/who-is-kevyn-aucoin-everything-you-need-to-know
  
  Way Bandy: https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/15/obituaries/way-bandy-makeup-artist-and-best-selling-writer-dies.html
  
  Visage, Fade to Grey (1982): https://youtu.be/UMPC8QJF6sI
  
  David Bowie, Ashes to Ashes (1980): https://youtu.be/CMThz7eQ6K0
  
  Sandy Linter, Disco Beauty (1979): http://sparklearmy.com/blog/?p=287
  
  Jennifer Lopez, Waiting For Tonight (1999): https://youtu.be/_66jPJVS4JE

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  00:25:46

  Mail Order Fashion

  Bande à part 25 Aug starstarstarstarstar add

  We talk about the appeal of buying clothes from catalogues. See links below.
  Marshall & Snelgrove catalogue, 'The Visits of Veronica' (1929): http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/mol-77-150-39
  Kays catalogues: https://www.worc.ac.uk/discover/world-of-kays-website-charts-20th-century-fashions%20.html

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  00:29:19

  Bonjour Tristesse

  Bande à part 18 Aug starstarstarstarstar_outline add

  We discuss the significance of costume in Otto Preminger’s film Bonjour Tristesse (1958). See also links below.
  
  François Sagan, Bonjour Tristesse (1954): http://www.francoisesagan.fr/4.aspx
  
  Otto Preminger, Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/
  
  Saul Bass title sequence: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfxT7CzB94
  
  Photos by Lionel Kazan taken during the filming: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-culture/fashion-books/diaporama/lionel-kazan-remembers-the-filming-of-bonjour-tristesse/34055

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  00:34:38

  Department Stores

  Bande à part 12 Aug starstarstarstarstar_outline add

  We discuss department stores we have known and loved.
  
  Kaufhaus Weyrauch: https://www.kaufhaus-weyrauch.de/historie/
  
  Morleys Brixton Department Store: https://www.morleysbrixton.co.uk/about-morleys/
  
  Bon Marché Department Store Brixton: https://thedepartmentstore.com/history/
  
  Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (2008): https://tinyurl.com/y83uz547
  
  Emile Zola, The Ladies' Paradise (1883): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-ladies-paradise-9780199536900
  
  John Guillermin (director), The Crowded Day (1954): http://www.screenonline.org.uk/film/id/1408156/index.html
  
  William Wyler (director), Mrs Miniver (1942): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035093/

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  00:30:36

  Beauty & Rihanna

  Bande à part 5 Aug starstarstarstarstar add

  We wonder what natural makeup is, and marvel at Nick Knight’s photographs of Rihanna.
  
  Blog post by cosmeticsandskin about Pan-Cake Make-Up: https://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/cake.php
  
  Vogue UK September 2018 Issue Cover: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/rihanna-september-cover-british-vogue-2018
  
  Madame Yevonde: http://www.madameyevonde.com/
  
  Azuma Makoto: http://azumamakoto.com/
  
  Azuma Makoto making iced flowers for Dries van Noten (2015): https://youtu.be/4y8h5bh30-o
  
  Victor Stiebel's Overalls for Constance Spry Ltd at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1276042/overalls-stiebel-victor/

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  00:31:39

  Vivienne Westwood & Fashion Documentaries

  Bande à part 29 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the recent Vivienne Westwood film and ponder what we want from fashion documentaries.
  
  Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4378628/
  
  Gillian Greenwood, Vivienne Westwood (1990, episode of The South Bank Show): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1574390/
  
  Douglas Keeve, Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

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  00:29:23

  Smithereens & Modern Jewellery

  Bande à part 21 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the film Smithereens and early 1980s fashion, and what we value in Modern Jewellery.
  
  Susan Seidelman (director), Smithereens (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0084698/fullcredits
  
  Interview with Susan Berman (1982): https://player.vimeo.com/video/277148700
  
  Maripol: http://www.maripol.com/who-i-am
  
  Maribeth Keane & Jessica Lewis on Modernist Jewellery (2009): https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/an-interview-with-modernist-studio-jewelry-collector-marbeth-schon/

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  00:32:08

  Antonio Lopez & 1970s Realness

  Bande à part 15 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We discuss the brilliant Antonio Lopez documentary and ponder on the relationship between 1970s fashion as seen in magazines versus what was worn on the street.
  
  Fendi campaign (2018): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a22102910/north-west-kim-kardashian-fendi-campaign/
  
  Matti Suuronen, Futuro House (1968): http://www.thefuturohouse.com/
  
  James Crump, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco (2018): http://sexfashiondisco.com/
  
  Marguerite Duras, Baxter, Vera Baxter (1977): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074190/fullcredits

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  00:34:58

  Fashion Film & Queer Eye

  Bande à part 8 Jul starstarstarstarstar add

  We talk about the Archaeology of Fashion Film conference and Queer Eye.
  
  Archaeology of Fashion Film: http://archfashfilm.arts.ac.uk/
  
  Stella Scott, The Performers (2017): https://www.stellascott.net/the-performers
  
  Isaac Lock, Black (2018): http://somesuch.co/directors/isaac-lock/reel/black/
  
  Vitoria de Mello Franco, Divinas (2018): https://www.nowness.com/story/divinas-victoria-de-mello-franco
  
  Queer Eye (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7259746/

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