Episodes
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April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/april-davidson
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:22) – Living with a blind man
(00:07:33) – Why they quit vanlife
(00:10:04) – Building out their van
(00:21:02) – Settling in Vegas
(00:23:44) – April’s relationship with climbing
(00:26:18) – Growing up & moving a lot
(00:31:44) – Moving to LA
(00:33:40) – 30s
(00:40:00) – Loss & addiction
(00:49:06) – An abusive relationship
(00:52:01) – Finding climbing
(00:54:34) – Breaking free
(00:58:56) – Dissociation & wasted time
(01:02:13) – Support & accountability
(01:05:21) – Her Instagram career
(01:12:57) – Photography & video
(01:16:15) – Going with the flow
(01:17:57) – Weddings & elopements
(01:21:10) – Health issues & adrenal fatigue
(01:28:56) – The carnivore diet
(01:35:25) – Getting strong
(01:40:00) – Gut health & her current diet
(01:43:52) – Vegan & vegetarian diets
(01:50:52) – Responsible meat eating
(01:55:08) – Quitting caffeine
(01:56:37) – Food tracking
(01:59:39) – Cake
(02:00:28) – Rapid fire questions
(02:04:18) – Narrating life to Justin
(02:07:30) – Ultimate trust
(02:08:34) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salas
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries
(00:05:26) – Vanlife
(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience
(00:15:35) – An invisible disability
(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”
(00:27:55) – Faces
(00:30:45) – Losing his vision
(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days
(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing
(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms
(00:48:36) – Assistive technology
(00:54:34) – How he climbs
(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing
(01:10:59) – Sight guides
(01:22:34) – Footholds
(01:25:29) – Stamina training
(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics
(01:33:14) – Getting inspired
(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em
(01:37:32) – Assessing landings
(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching
(01:45:04) – Toothpaste
(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes
(01:51:42) – Asking for help
(01:57:54) – April
(02:05:47) – Building out a van
(02:10:09) – Vegas
(02:12:56) – Nature is healing
(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear
(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk
(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing
(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions
(02:39:39) – Blind visualization
(02:46:48) – Building a mental map
(02:50:11) – Changemaker
(02:54:40) – Faith
(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning
(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy
(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”
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Missing episodes?
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Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
greenchef.com/NUGGET50
Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jerome
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:12) – Hit & run
(00:04:42) – The recovery process
(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift
(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project
(00:13:23) – A really fun game
(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing
(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food
(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber
(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose
(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing
(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah
(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders
(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New
(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia
(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude
(01:37:45) – More about The New
(01:46:09) – Life going forward
(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New
(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK
(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA
(02:03:19) – Building a database
(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA
(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features
(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-rodden
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:54) – Injuries
(00:03:28) – Writing her book
(00:08:14) – Excavating memories
(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy
(00:13:59) – Living in fear
(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan
(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy
(00:27:06) – Putting the book together
(00:28:29) – A shared experience
(00:37:45) – Being honest
(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book
(00:47:39) – Facing backlash
(00:56:11) – Reductionism
(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells
(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career
(01:10:48) – Magic Line
(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change
(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game
(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories
(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs
(01:44:28) – The next level down
(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism
(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book
(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book
(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharma
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone
(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down
(00:10:32) – Knee injury
(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship
(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura
(00:20:07) – New challenges
(00:27:32) – Chapters
(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot
(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia
(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution
(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start
(00:52:32) – Should or should not
(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing
(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute
(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics
(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo
(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives
(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season
(01:27:21) – Santa Linya
(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again
(01:40:17) – Paris 2028
(01:46:32) – Embracing competition
(01:50:00) – The next generation
(01:54:12) – The media churn
(01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice
(02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ”
(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids
(02:12:32) – Ferrari
(02:16:16) – Magic
(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever
(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people
(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huber
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:25) – Many valleys
(00:04:53) – Hunting
(00:14:39) – Staying young
(00:16:29) – Thomas’ recent trip to Choktoi
(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions
(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp
(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis’ relationship with climbing
(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible
(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen
(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57
(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday
(01:01:17) – Beer break
(01:02:37) – Early training
(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution
(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux
(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup
(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s
(01:20:55) – 9a & beer
(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage
(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex
(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex
(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings
(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys
(01:54:00) – Patagonia
(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap
(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel
(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive
(02:06:24) – Freiheit
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Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!
Sign the Petition:
Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area
(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)
More Links:
stgeorgeclimberscoalition.org
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen
(00:02:16) – Intro
(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water
(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley
(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s
(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place
(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings
(00:17:46) – Fundraising
(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd
(00:27:56) – Striking a balance
(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing
(00:33:00) – Top secret information
(00:34:02) – Wrap up
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus
(00:03:50) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Think long-term
(00:08:10) – Steven’s Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it
(00:10:51) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades
(00:14:17) – Steven’s Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up
(00:17:29) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades
(00:28:34) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do more of what you haven’t been doing
(00:33:24) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)
(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up
(00:38:12) – Steven’s Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances
(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions
(00:44:12) – Creative home walls
(00:45:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you’ve been doing
(00:45:49) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overtraining
(00:50:32) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people’s agendas
(01:00:46) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking
(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through
(01:09:21) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often
(01:12:43) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: You’re not actually plateaued, you’ve just built a tower
(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids
(01:19:48) – That’s a wrap on season 2!
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Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more.
Join Kaizen’s Courage Collective:
skool.com/courage
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asiedu
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Kaizen's Emmy
(00:04:22) – My political background, the health crisis, & RKF Jr
(00:11:01) – My algorithm breaking & discovering Kaizen
(00:12:46) – What Kaizen does
(00:14:32) – Kaizen’s political journey
(00:21:13) – Kaizen’s awakening
(00:28:35) – Becoming a life coach
(00:31:51) – The media, our legal system, & Trump
(00:39:15) – How the media portrays RFK Jr, & the “white supremacists are very fine people” narrative
(00:43:16) – Kaizen’s experience talking about Trump
(00:46:25) – Nuance & the power of being truthful
(00:51:13) – Media bias, the influence of advertising, & polarized perceptions
(00:56:12) – Incentives drive everything
(00:57:14) – Tulsi Gabbard, Joe Biden’s cognitive decline, & and the DNC appointing Kamala Harris
(01:02:09) – Kaizen’s political journey continued
(01:10:12) – Priorities
(01:12:00) – What is America?
(01:14:15) – What does a “great” America actually look like?
(01:20:57) – Government corruption, Hunter Biden’s laptop, censorship, & free speech
(01:29:48) – Why this election is bigger than Trump vs. Harris
(01:32:35) – Why I feel frustrated with US politics
(01:35:34) – My health journey & why I care about the health crisis
(01:40:52) – The sick care system & our food system
(01:42:13) – Monsanto, GMO crops, Roundup, glyphosate, Bayer, & cancer lawsuits
(01:47:47) – How much we spend managing chronic disease
(01:50:40) – Sense vs. dollars
(01:53:32) – The health crisis is fundamental
(01:59:34) – Ripple effects
(02:01:47) – Pharma & conflicts of interest
(02:02:30) – Voting with our dollars
(02:07:57) – Taking responsibility
(02:09:15) – Synergistic effects
(02:10:24) – Abortion, racism, & what happens if Trump wins
(02:23:59) – Inviting curiosity & losing perspective
(02:27:24) – Steel man argument for Kamala Harris
(02:32:25) – Mass deportation
(02:37:48) – Steel man argument for Trump
(02:41:34) – January 6th
(02:44:17) – Mail-in ballots & voter ID
(02:48:26) – My final thoughts
(02:50:41) – Kaizen’s final thoughts & The Courage Collective
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Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargo
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing
(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall
(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster
(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b
(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition
(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain
(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling
(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF
(00:25:45) – Representing South America
(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)
(00:28:33) – Goal oriented
(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”
(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)
(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo
(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall
(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga
(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training
(00:54:29) – When to specialize
(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid
(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines
(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil
(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil
(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America
(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines
(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+
(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16
(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)
(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)
(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard
(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:17:15.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Martin's Original Episode:
EP 143: Matt Heyliger
Work With Matt:
www.sendagain.co
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt
(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury
(00:06:42) – What I should have done
(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs
(00:23:12) – The injury timeline
(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping
(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)
(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells
(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)
(00:37:37) – BFR
(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing
(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing
(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing
(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage
(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings
(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading
(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session
(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury
(01:09:41) – Tetris
(01:11:00) – Testing with tape
(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-5
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:19) – Injuries we thought we wouldn’t come back from
(00:05:02) – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury
(00:09:19) – Jesse’s Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible
(00:11:07) – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future
(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Know that it’s going to be ok
(00:16:04) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume
(00:19:07) – Steven’s Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up
(00:27:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing
(00:31:19) – My best onsight season ever
(00:35:07) – Steven’s Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)
(00:38:41) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Protect your identity
(00:43:16) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to
(00:46:59) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn’t understand your sport/identity
(00:52:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly
(00:57:28) – More finger rehab tips
(00:58:53) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)
(01:07:18) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury
(01:09:54) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)
(01:14:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process
(01:15:27) – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.
(01:15:42) – Wrap up
-
Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Ocelot Grips:
ocelotgrips.com/nugget
Use code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.
Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
greenchef.com/nugget50
Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:34) – The Murder Room
(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago
(00:10:02) – Molly’s background
(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s
(00:14:45) – The language of movement
(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master
(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s
(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes
(00:34:36) – The power of climbing
(00:35:49) – Getting her L5
(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting
(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting
(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends
(01:00:54) – Coordination
(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead
(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation
(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter
(01:12:10) – A tide shift
(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries
(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing
(01:24:49) – Finding separation
(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu
(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River
(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters
(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?
(01:52:14) – Splitting the field
(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”
(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-4
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – The NUG
(00:01:19) – Two things that have improved Jesse’s finger strength
(00:04:12) – Using climbing to gain finger strength
(00:07:53) – Overview
(00:09:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Do something simple enough that you can be consistent with it, and do it for a very long time
(00:11:02) – Examples of simple consistency
(00:13:48) – Climbing on a board
(00:18:14) – Jesse’s Tip #1: You probably don’t need much finger training
(00:19:37) – Maintaining finger strength on a trip
(00:21:50) – Steven’s Tip #2: Use big edges to get strong and use small edges to apply that strength to the rock
(00:31:28) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the adaptations from different styles of training
(00:37:41) – Owning the hold
(00:38:43) – Finger curls/active flexion
(00:42:53) – Building forearm capacity and endurance
(00:44:08) – Rate of force development
(00:46:12) – Wall crawls/crimp crawls/low gear
(00:48:33) – Steven’s Tip #3: Own the hold
(00:53:32) – RPE and 10-second hangs
(00:56:32) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Practice grips on the wall
(01:01:28) – Steven’s Tip #4: Train a variety of grip types
(01:11:54) – Bonus Tip: The Ladder Program
(01:14:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Training too heavy
(01:17:20) – Genetric freaks and the 200 lb goal
(01:18:25) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not considering how you climb when you train your fingers (i.e. Your finger training should be specific to you)
(01:22:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Doing your finger training when you’re tired
(01:24:38) – Watching Tyler Nelson one-arm hang a 15mm edge when tired
(01:27:53) – Rate of Force test
(01:29:28) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Switching protocols too often
(01:30:30) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Too much “perfect” edge training
(01:34:44) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Stressing out about which protocol is “the best”
(01:36:30) – “It takes years”
(01:38:18) – Bonus Tip: N=1
(01:39:55) – Wrap up
-
Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megos
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a’s
(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger
(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects
(00:14:45) – Bibliographie
(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to
(00:21:08) – The America Tour
(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber
(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a
(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change
(00:45:51) – Leg pump
(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway
(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger
(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017
(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential
(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week
(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape
(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food
(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption
(01:07:51) – Olympics
(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions
(01:12:51) – The board master
(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering
(01:16:00) – Wrap up
-
Another phone call with Ron Kauk.
Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:
sacredrok.org
-
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-3
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – The NUG
(00:01:21) – Why Jesse lifts weights
(00:04:43) – Why I lift weights
(00:06:19) – The safety of weightlifting
(00:07:03) – Low-hanging fruit
(00:08:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Learn the basics (the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, and a basic understanding of anatomy)
(00:12:36) – How I use RPE, & a big mistake I made early on in my lifting
(00:13:16) – Other forms of RPE
(00:16:11) – A study on reps in reserve (RIR) lifting
(00:16:50) – A basic understanding of anatomy (ExRx.net)
(00:18:20) – Steven’s Tip #1: Train like an athlete in another sport, not like a weight lifter
(00:18:54) – The Big 4 (push, pull, hinge, squat), & an example program
(00:21:56) – The 10 Rep Rule
(00:25:13) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Learn how to modify your training
(00:35:47) – How to progress primary & accessory exercises
(00:37:26) – Why you should start with a compound exercise
(00:38:25) – Steven’s Tip #2: It’s ok to focus on the bare essentials
(00:40:43) – Way too much pulling training
(00:41:30) – Step #1 for new lifters
(00:44:07) – Drew Ruana bench press example
(00:45:42) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Load is more important to pay attention to than form
(00:47:30) – Steven’s Tip #3: Get specific strategically, and only after you build a base
(00:49:42) – Jesse’s Tip #4: You may need to reduce your climbing volume to adapt to your weight training
(00:55:52) – Bonus Tip: Learn about hardstyle training
(00:58:27) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing either too much or too little
(01:01:14) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Going ham
(01:01:14) – Bonus Pitfall: Not taking advantage of weight lifting when you’re young
(01:07:12) – You don’t have to go to level ten
(01:08:17) – Overall training load
(01:09:09) – A little bit is still beneficial
(01:11:04) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not going heavy enough
(01:15:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too specific, too special, or too fancy
(01:18:42) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not eating enough protein
(01:22:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not learning how to use autoregulation in some fashion
(01:26:02) – Bonus Pitfall: Forcing it
(01:27:57) – Nurturing your practice with weight training
(01:29:26) – Avoid boot camp training
(01:31:46) – Wrap up
-
Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more.
Watch Girls Gone Hueco:
girlsgonehueco.vhx.tv
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-hueco
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:38) – Midori’s background
(00:09:08) – Long’s background
(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco
(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience
(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film
(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang
(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film
(00:28:36) – Making the film
(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known
(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film
(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film
(00:50:57) – Trash can shower
(00:55:39) – Amanda’s pad-less send
(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?
(01:01:35) – Takeaways
(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film
(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers
(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome
(01:15:15) – Don’t be afraid to try
(01:16:45) – V11 in legit
(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison
(01:20:45) – Congratulations
-
Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard design.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal
(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking
(00:11:28) – Limiting factors
(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit
(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting
(00:19:19) – Specializing
(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength
(00:21:18) – More on specialization
(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises
(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics
(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals
(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training
(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program
(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols
(00:53:35) – When to progress weight
(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test
(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule
(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)
(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains
(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong
(01:05:29) – Repeaters
(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program
(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far
(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training
(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder
(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency
(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan
(01:35:12) – More about repeaters
(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season
(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals
(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps
(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals
(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist
(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel
(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports
(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip
(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:20) – Best spray walls
(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique
(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle
(00:10:07) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)
(00:13:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them
(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement
(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression
(00:24:52) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting
(00:27:59) – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons
(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)
(00:33:17) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall
(00:35:52) – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!
(00:40:13) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money
(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves
(00:49:23) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions
(00:52:08) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level
(00:54:33) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions
(00:55:51) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)
(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes
(00:59:42) – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds
(01:02:03) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)
(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps
- Show more
