Episodios
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Please note: This is the audio part of a video that I have uploaded to YouTube. You can search for "Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle" (or use the link in the show notes, or go to WellDressedDad.com to find it).
Nigel Cabourn is a British menswear designer with over 50 years in the business. He has had a continuous personal brand, initially as Crickett, later under his own name, and is known for his many and varied collaborations.
In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the Garmology podcast (episode #122), as a continuation of our contact I was invited to visit Nigel in his studio in Newcastle in April 2024. For me, it was a chance to learn more about the inspirations and working methods behind legendary collections such as "The Ascent of Cabourn" and "Scott's Last Expedition", and naturally to learn more about what is in the pipeline.
Youtube link: Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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Embark on a journey of unexpected turns and intriguing transformations as we sit down with today's guest, Kenneth McClure, the sole operator of Noble & Wylie, a maker of handmade shoes based in Sheffield. Kenneth's story is a testament to the twists and turns of fate, starting from a desire to create, studying fashion, and exploring various avenues before stumbling upon the captivating world of small-scale shoe-making. Join us as we unravel the fascinating narrative that bridges the gap between these two distinct points in Kenneth's journey. Tune in for a captivating conversation filled with surprising anecdotes and enlightening insights.You can find Noble & Whylie on the web at nobleandwylie.com and on Instagram as @nobleandwylie
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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Join us on our journey to uncover hidden gems in the world of small-scale creators as we venture to Glasgow for an enlightening conversation with Gillian McNeill of LAW Design Studio. Gillian shares her journey from a budding creative spirit to establishing her own independent venture. We delve into her passion for design, her following the conventional path in fashion studies, and the pivotal moments that led her to forge her own path in the industry. Central to our discussion are the timeless qualities of design and the secret sauce that keeps customers returning for more. Tune in as we unravel the story behind LAW Design Studio and explore the essence of enduring style and customer loyalty.
You can find LAW Design Studio on the web as lawdesignstudio.com and on Instagram as @lawdesignstudio
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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This week's guest is David Courtney of Courtney & Co, arguably the last of the traditional button makers in the UK. I was keen to invite David for a chat about how he happened into what is a rather unusual business, requiring as it does both a plethora of machinery and some rather special source materials. Not to mention the skills and knowledge to make buttons actually happen! A challenge indeed, not least when customs officers get in touch to ask about the box of white stuff that's arrived from South America...
You can find Courtney & Co on the web here and on Instagram as @courtneycobuttonmakers
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebrated by sewing enthusiasts worldwide, to the therapeutic power of sewing, we explore the intricacies of fabric sourcing and Carolyn's identity as a maker above all else. Join us as we also discuss the launch of new sewing retreats, offering a sanctuary for creative exploration.
You can find Merchant & Mills on the web at merchantandmills.com and on Instagram as @merchantandmills
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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In this episode, we journey to Sunderland for an insightful conversation with Simon McAleese. Join us as Simon shares his journey from creating illustrations to honing an eye for sartorial intricacies. We delve into how his passion for menswear sparked the dream of launching his own brand, and navigating the highs and lows of entrepreneurship. Simon candidly discusses the challenges of balancing sustainability with brand ambitions and the nitty-gritty details of production. Plus, we explore the common struggle of grappling with impostor syndrome and questioning the path taken. Tune in as Simon unveils the raw realities behind the dream of building a fashion brand.
You can find Simon on Instagram as @deliberateindifference and @saccadeclothing, and on the web as saccadeclo.com
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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Get ready to dive into the dynamic world of UK manufacturing as we jet back to the UK for a lively chat with Kate Hills. Kate takes us on a whirlwind journey through her fascinating career path, from pioneering circular fashion fresh out of college to designing quirky kids' clothing. We'll follow her adventures to Italy, where she crafted designs for Levi's while indulging in pizza, and then to the bustling halls of Burberry before navigating the twists and turns of the High Street fashion scene. Hold onto your seats as we explore Kate's resilient pivot into her current venture, championing brands and makers committed to the UK manufacturing landscape.
You can find Kate and Make It British at www.makeitbritish.co.uk, and on Instagram: www.instagram.com/makeitbritish and finally on Linkedin: www.linkedin/in/katehills
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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Join us on today's podcast journey to Oslo, a city close to home for me, where we sit down with Inger Kristin Haugsevje to explore the world of vintage denim. From discussing the evolving landscape of vintage supplies to the intersection of vintage fashion trends, we delve into the industry's nuances. Unpacking the environmental impact of extensively travelled vintage garments and the value proposition behind quality secondhand clothing, we uncover the complexities of sustainability in fashion. Additionally, we uncover the irresistible allure that led Inger Kristin to establish not just one, but two, vintage emporiums, spurred on by the simple desire for a nice cup of coffee in her own shop.
You can find Vintage Jeans in Oslo on the web as vintagejeans.no and on Instagram as @vintagejeansoslo
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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In this week's episode, we venture to Brighton to meet the luminary of a distinctive musical niche, Chap Hop. Jim Burke, known as Mr B the Gentleman Rhymer, has masterfully blended gentlemanly pursuits with banjolele-infused hip hop. As customary, we delve into his background, tracing his journey from a musically gifted youth to stumbling into the world of rap, and the startling realization that tweed may not be the most practical stage attire. Supported by his faithful supporters—the Biscuits—and fueled by an unyielding creative drive, Jim shares insights into his prolific output and newfound fascination with siren suits. And, in a twist of fate, I may have accidentally started a beef with the delightful Will and Marie from Old Town (also esteemed friends of the podcast).
You can find Mr B the Gentleman Rhymer on the web at gentlemanrhymer.com
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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Step into the world of heritage menswear with this week's guest, Yuki Matsuda, the mastermind behind MEG Company and renowned brands Monitaly, Yuketen, Epperson Mountaineering, and Chamola. From his roots in Osaka to his early passion for vintage apparel, Yuki shares his remarkable journey of being thrust into the heart of the industry as a teenager sent to the US to source stock. Tune in as we unravel the tale of persistence, innovation, and unwavering passion that has cemented Yuki Matsuda's status as a true legend among aficionados of premium menswear.
You can find Yuki's work at yuketen.com, eppersonmountaineering.com and chamulaoriginal.com, and on Instagram as @yuketenbymegco, @monitalybymegco, @chamulabymegco and @eppersonmountaineering
@yuketenbymegco
@monitalybymegco
@chamulabymegco
@eppersonmountaineeringGarmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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It's no secret that podcast enthusiasts often form a connection with their favourite hosts. Granting someone access to your lugholes for hours on end, it's quite natural that over time a lopsided friendship of sort occurs. After immersing myself in Jeremy Kirkland's "Blamo!" podcast for countless hours over the years, I extended an invitation for him to join me on Garmology. Our conversation delves into Jeremy's unpredictable career journey, spanning from being in a band to music promotion to fashion entrepreneurship and celebrity styling, along with discussions on evolving tastes, the influence of social media and influencers, and the symbiotic relationship between brands and free advertising. Plus, I attempt to unravel the mystery of "getting fits off." Tune in for a delightful and insightful session!
You can find Jeremy and Blamo! on the web as blamopod.com and on Instagram as @blamopodcast
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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Buckle up for a journey through the untamed landscapes of Sussex as we sit down with Jonathan Kelly, the cheeky chap behind Sussex Tweed. Best brew a large pot as this episode is a long one. Join us as we delve into Jonathan's transformation from a burnt-out commuter to a connoisseur of exquisite tweed caps. Discover the allure of weaving yarn and the irresistible pull of dreams intertwined with the rhythmic clatter of looms.
Hold onto your seat for a thrilling road trip from the vibrant streets of Brighton to the rugged shores of Stornoway, all aboard a trusty Land Rover navigating treacherous conditions. Experience the exhilaration of restoring dusty old Hattersley looms to their former glory with the aromatic touch of paraffin.
But wait, there's more! Dive into Jonathan's enchanting tales of growing up in Ireland, where chance encounters led him to share a stage with none other than U2. And yes, expect a sprinkle of colourful language along the way – consider it an education for the uninitiated.
So grab your favourite mug, and settle in, while we tell stories that weave together the threads of adventure, passion, and the timeless artistry of craftsmanship.
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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This week on the podcast, we venture to Germany for an engaging conversation with Philipp Maertens from Taktonik. Taktonik specializes in crafting bags and other products from upcycled army surplus materials. Philipp shares how his fascination with creating was ignited by the discovery of shiny trousers fashioned from airmail bags. We delve into Philipp's unique approach of weaving narratives through the amalgamation of materials sourced from diverse origins, including his process of repurposing metal zips from G-suits. The discussion also explores the rich history of camouflage and the fascinating intricacies behind silk escape maps. We touch upon the power of social media in connecting individuals with shared passions globally and the significance of upcycling highly specific military gear in sustainability efforts. And of course, we couldn't forget to discuss the experience of meeting your idols.
You can find Philip and Taktonik on the web as taktonik.de and on Instagram as @taktonik
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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🎙️ Embark on a riveting journey through the tapestry of time with Sofi Thanhauser, professor and author of "Worn - A People's History of Clothing," as we unravel the stories woven into the fibres of our attire. Delve into the historical implications on society and the technological evolution of clothing, unearthing unexpected insights that might reshape your perspective. Plus, discover the intriguing world of the "Dumptique" and the art of thrifted Norwegian sweaters in Budapest – because fashion history is full of surprises!
You can find Sofi's website and info about "Worn" on the web here.
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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Tragically Chris died in a kayaking accident just weeks after recording this episode. Hence a bonus repost in memory of Christopher and to celebrate that his monumental work, the website "Clothes on film" is back online. Se link in episode notes for the updated address.
🎬✨ Dive into the fascinating world where clothing steals the spotlight on the silver screen! In a cinematic rendezvous, I sat down with Christopher Laverty, the brilliant mind behind "Fashion in Film" and the Clothes on Film website. Together, we unravel the magic when costumes transcend mere background and take centre stage, exploring how Guy Ritchie's films exemplify this phenomenon. Join us for a captivating chat that goes beyond anorak-level expertise to celebrate the transformative power of fashion in cinema. 🕵️♂️👗
You can find Christopher on Instagram as @christopherlaverty, and on the web as clothesonfilm.net
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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🎄✨ Join us for a festive wrap-up as Shaun, Jon, and I take a break to discuss everything from current male fashions and best buys to socks, engineer boots, and sourcing clothes from unconventional places. In this candid and lengthy conversation, we dive into weird avenues like affordability and seasonal colour analysis, sharing memorable experiences and more. It's like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of prying ears – you're invited to pry as we unravel the threads of style, sustainability, and unique fashion finds! 🗣️👕
Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka @These_Rough_Notes and @HeavyJon on Instagram.
Early reviews of this episode are mixed, so your listening pleasure is uncertain:
Tortoise Trends commented, "We appreciate the slow pace of the proceedings".VintageWear Weekly gushingly praised "At least they don't mention whiffy vintage garms this time!"Giffnock Advertiser noted, "Local celeb Shaun gets properly stuck into the proceedings and we love it."Stationary Engine Magazine said, "These guys sound like our kind of people.“Teddy Bear Times said, "Gets a bit boring in the middle then better at the end.“The Country Smallhold said, “They dress for the occasion but are they up to it?”Business of Fashion stated, "Clearly our days of shilling for the man are over, all hail the three kings."Gentleman's Quarterly: "A laidback and comfortably paced chat perfect for accompanying the preparation of sprouts".Amateur Carp Fishing Monthly said, “ It’s not really our thing.“Carnoustie Guide & Gazette said, “It’s a podcast with men talking.“From Twitter @JeansAndSheux "The scene appreciates the respect shown and offers a Peroni in return."Motorway Lovers Weekly “Once again there’s no mention of the M45 “Pitti Peacocks Annual whinges "We fail to appreciate the loathing of our beloved monk-strap shoes. This is dismal."The Guardian pontificated "We'd be sure to recommend Garmology if we'd heard of it."The Brighton Bugle blethered "Jon is clearly one of our finest local citizens and we really should shower him with appreciation."Tønsberg Blad skriver "Jasså, så han holder ennå på? Kanskje på tide å rydde forsiden igjen..."Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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🎙️ Lend an ear to my conversation with Alice Sherwood, author of "Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture," as we explore the world of counterfeit goods, unravel the secrets of brand complicity, discuss the art of storytelling in marketing, decode the incremental nature of fashion design, dissect influencer culture, and embark on a journey to uncover the truth behind the tuxedo's inventor – Yves St Laurent or Ralph Lauren?
"Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture" is available from all usual sources, or direct from HarperCollins here
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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🎙️ Brace yourselves this week as we welcome Neil Christopher, the enigmatic force behind ARN Mercantile and a sought-after figure in the clothing industry. Join us as we unravel Neil's unconventional career journey, diving into the ethics of the industry and the winds of change it desperately needs. From crafting quality clothes to minimizing environmental footprints, we expose the secrets of the trade. Neil spills the beans on the not-so-great evolution of Red Wing soles, tackles the ever-relevant fast fashion dilemma, and navigates the maze of true sustainability. 🌱👔
You can find Neil on Instagram as @arnmerc
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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🎙️ Get ready for a journey through time with Marie and Will from Old Town, the maestros of modern threads with a nod to history! Join us as we start in the '80s Blitz scene, discover the unique origins of Old Town, and explore why nostalgia takes a backseat in their creations. Find out where inspiration strikes, witness the evolution of their diverse customer base, and delve into the surprising tale of a celebrity gardener turned style icon – capturing the hearts (and wardrobes) of husbands everywhere!
You can find Old Town on the web here and on Instagram as @oldtownengland.
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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🎙️ Dive into Tokyo's style revolution with author W. David Marx this week on our podcast! Uncover the fascinating tales behind "Ametora" and "Status and Culture." From the denim invasion in Japan to the ascent of Ivy fashion, we explore the intricacies of Japanese subcultures, dissect the dynamics of status, and ponder the clash between old money and new money aesthetics. Tune in for a riveting conversation that unveils the secrets of who bestows status and the challenges of boosting your own. 📚👖 #FashionRevolution #CulturalInsights #PodcastGems
You can find W David Marx online on the web at www.neomarxisme.com, Twitter and Instagram as @wdavidmarx
Also, W David publishes a great newsletter, CULTURE: An Owner’s Manual.
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology
Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com.
Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.
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