Episodit
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Passion, conviction, obsession. Heart and soul. Words to describe the devoted. Those driven to produce what had never existed before — a crusade to push the sport forward.
When Bill Belcourt talks product, you listen. The former head of R&D at Black Diamond, Bill helmed the department during the heydey, when anything was possible and all roads led to BD for product innovation. Chances are, if you’ve used BD climbing gear in the past 30 years, you’ve used Bill’s work.
Now, Bill leads Blue Ice - North America, where the work continues.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 Why product discovery is a life project, not a job🧊 How finding your people can change everything🧊 The lifecycle of innovation in business and industry🧊 Life lessons from Randy Rackliff and Mark TwightResources and links:
Bill isn’t really active on social media, so no point in sharing links. We didn’t talk about it in the episode, but Bill has been at the vanguard of paragliding in the U.S. for decades (and has several long-distance records). If you’d like to learn more about that facet of his life, this is a good podcast episode.
If you’d like to dive deeper into the (mythology?) of Black Diamond, I enjoyed this article from Outside, “Welcome to the Mutant Factory”.
And of course, if you’d like to support a climbing brand who is continuing the work, check out Blue Ice at blueice.com.
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📸: Cover photo by Barry Blanchard.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Today, we dive into the mindset of a competitor. Gordon McArthur has been a staple on the World Cup circuit across 15 seasons, including a one-year retirement. We talk about the particular highs and lows of returning to the sport, the story of Storm Giant (the first proposed D16 in the world), and what role ego plays in it all.
In particular, our conversation hovers around themes of drive, our relationship to competitiveness, and understanding our true motivations.
We also chat about:
🧊 The moment of retirement: Inner Mongolia, 2017🧊 Challenges and reflections from Edmonton🧊 Mentorship and the legacy we leave behind🧊 The story of Storm Giant🧊 Advice for younger climbersResources and links:
You can learn more about Gordon and read some of his reflections at gordonmcarthur.com. To follow him on Instagram, he’s @gord_mcarthur. If you’re curious to see how Storm Giant came together, definitely check out the Outdoor Research film, “Storm Giant: The World's Hardest Drytooling Route”.
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📸: Cover photo by Jeff Mercier
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Puuttuva jakso?
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Doug Heinrich has just about done it all and seen it all in ice climbing ⛏️ as both a climber and product designer 🧤.
Doug hails from Salt Lake City where he began climbing in the 1970s. He was an extensive route developer, including many mixed climbs in the Wasatch, competed at the X Games, and has been at the vanguard for product at Black Diamond almost from the beginning.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 The climbing scene in Utah, from early bouldering to the evolution of ice climbing, to the advent of sport climbing and sport mixed climbing🧊 Lessons learned from Mugs Stump🧊 The importance of humility🧊 His inverted professional career🧊 The evolution of Black Diamond and what most people don’t understand about the company🧊 How passion projects lead to innovation, and why he’s excited about his new venture, AniiuResources and links:
Doug’s not much for social media, but you should definitely check out his side project, Aniiu, which are focused on making highly technical gloves for all disciplines of ice climbing, including working with some of the world’s leading drytoolers. You can check them out at aniiu.com and follow them on IG @aniiu_gloves.
And for some behind the scenes into Black Diamond R&D and testing, here is a (sponsored, albeit interesting) article from Outside from 2014, with quotes from Doug.
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📸: Photos by Chris Noble (@noblefoto)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Eliteclimb makes the lightest ice tools in the world, and it’s not even close. It’s possible because Jarosław "Jarek" Walewski uses a mix of carbon and kevlar composites, and nothing else—the only metal in his tools are the bolts and picks.
The one-man brand has been bucking industry trends for over a decade now, and it’s his unique position as an independent craftsman that lets Jarek pursue solutions that the bigger brands ignore.
By being attuned to the community and working with some of the world’s best, their tools have been used on no oxygen ascents of Lhotse, expeditions to places like K2 and Broad Peak and at the highest-end of drytooling today.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 How Jarek came to understand composites by working in one of the best glider factories in the world🧊 Why he chooses to make each tool by hand🧊 The advantages of composite materials🧊 Why moving fast and trying things is a good strategy🧊 Being open to opportunities and feedback (positive and negative)🧊 His philosophy on business, craftsmanship, and productionResources and links:
To learn more about Eliteclimb’s tools, head to eliteclimb.com. All of their tools can be customized (from weight, strength, colors, etc.), so if you’re interested, be sure to reach out to Jarek.
On the website, you can also read trip reports from expeditions where their tools have been used. Lastly, there are more updates on their Instagram, @eliteclimb.
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📸: Episode cover photo by Artur Małek courtesy of Jarek
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This episode is all about training for ice climbing, mixed, drytooling and speed.
To discuss these diverse disciplines, we’re joined by Kevin Lindlau, Aneta Loužecká, and Zac St. Jules and dive into how they think about and structure their training for their respective specialties.
Kevin is a leading roof-climbing drytooler and the first American to send D16, Aneta was last year's World Cup Champion in speed, and Zac is a strong all-around ice and mixed climber who manages to send hard while also working full-time and raising 4 kids.
In this episode, we discuss:
🧊 Each climber’s unique journey and some surprisingly common training mistakes🧊 Why defining your goals is so important🧊 How to break things down to first principles in order to structure your training🧊 Why mastering technique matters as much as being strong🧊 Mental tricks and tips for getting in the right head space🧊 Cost-effective training solutions if access to drytooling is hard to come byResources and links:
To see how Kevin, Aneta, and Zac are training, you can follow them on IG:
Kevin: @lindlaukevinAneta: @anetkalouzeckaZac: @zacst.julesBe sure to send them a thank you message if you found their advice useful.
A few other useful resources:
Uphill Athlete has an article about Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing that I’ve personally usedFurnace Industries has a series about Training for Ice ClimbingWe also had an episode about training for drytooling specifically last season, with Eli EllisLastly, if you don’t have access to a drytooling gym or crag, Furnace Industries' wooden tools are climbing gym safe and also make for great options for training at home. And if you do want to build out your home wall, they also have the largest selection of drytooling-specific holds in the U.S....
📸: Episode cover photo courtesy of Aneta
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Corey Buhay has made a life out of doing what she loves. That’s not to say it’s been easy.
Known as the go-to reporter for all things drytooling ⛏️, Corey quickly built a career as a freelance journalist regularly contributing to Climbing 🧗♀️, Backpacker 🥾, Smithsonian 🗿, and the like. Around the time she started writing full-time, she also started drytooling. Again, she quickly established herself, rising to the top of the rankings for comp ice climbing in North America. But, shortly thereafter, she decided to walk away. How come?
In today’s chat we talk about:
🧊 The assignment that changed everything🧊 Going all in on things that give you happiness🧊 Struggles with expectations, perfectionism and anxiety🧊 Revitalizing Team USA and competitive pressures🧊 Burnout and taking a break🧊 Rediscovering balance and joy in climbingI want to say that I really appreciated Corey’s openness and willingness to discuss difficult topics and her ability to infuse humor into the conversation. Further, if you’re struggling with mental health, know that you’re not alone and that there are folks and resources who can help, some of which we share in the show notes.
Resources and links:
If you’d like to follow Corey’s latest writings, her website is coreybuhay.com.
Some of my personal favorite articles of hers are:
Russia’s World Cup Ice Climbing Scene is as Hardcore as it GetsThe Strange Underworld of Competition Ice ClimbingYears After My Mentor Died in the Backcountry, I Retraced His Final FootstepsMental health resources:
Mental Health in Athletes: Breaking the StigmaResources for Athletes with Eating DisordersAthletes Against Anxiety and Depression Foundation (who offer a free therapy option)Managing Stress in Sports: Quieting the Mind and the Body...
📸: Cover photo by Mike Thurk (@mthurk)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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I’m sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude 🧗♀️, went on 8,000-meter peak expeditions 🏔️, sent M8, skied 50-degree couloirrs⛷️ and regularly ran mountain ultras. Or as Sarah Hudson, our co-host for this episode puts it, “Carolyn is a boss”.
Climbing was only half the story, though. After flirting with the limelight, Carolyn found that she derived as much, if not more, satisfaction from helping others achieve their objectives as she did in accomplishing her own 🙌. As a result, climbing and guiding eventually transitioned into training and coaching. More than 35 years later, Carolyn has worked with 1,000s of athletes in the pursuit of their dreams.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 The life, times and challenges of being a female climber in the 90s🧊 Choosing to stay just under the radar🧊 Her philosophy and approach to running a coaching business🧊 Mental and physical aspects of strength training for female athletes🧊 How the hormonal cycle and nutrition impact athletic performance🧊 Navigating menopauseResources and links:
If you’d like to learn more about Ripple Effect Athlete Training Center or coaching with Carolyn, you can visit their company website, rippleffectraining.com. To follow along with Carolyn’s latest endeavors, her IG account is @blitzkriegbarbie.
To learn more about Carolyn’s coaching journey, there is a great article on Uphill Athlete. Further, UA has a lot of useful resources for training as a female athlete, including a general overview, strength training, and hormones.
If you’d like to dive deeper, Carolyn has shared quite a few resources as well:
Books:
Dr. Stacy Sims: ROAR, Next LevelDr. Lisa Mosconi: The Menopause BrainResearch papers:
Effect of Estrogen on Musculoskeletal Performance and Injury RiskThe Effect of Menstrual Cycle and Contraceptives on ACL Injuries and Laxity: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysisThe Effects of Oral Contraceptives on Exercise Performance in Women: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysisKelly McNulty also has a pdocast on the subject, “the period of the period.”Postmenopausal hormone therapy for cardiovascular health: the evolving dataArticles:
Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport - A Cautionary TaleMore info on REDSHormones for menopause are safe, study finds. Here's what changed...
📸: Cover photo by Angela Hawse (@alpinist007), courtesy of Carolyn.
🙏 And a big thanks to Sarah Hudson (@sarahferocity) for joining as co-host!
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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How many of you were inspired to start climbing because of a comic? I’m sure Masato Najakima is not alone, but he is the only person I can say with certainty that that's the case. (And if you’re curious, it was Gaku: Minna no Yama (in English, "Peak: Everyone's Mountain")).
Anywho, Masato is a leading drytooler in Japan and was one of a contingent from the country who sent “A Line Above the Sky” last year. Masato is a bit of a late bloomer — at 43, he’s one of the older athletes on the UIAA World Cup scene — and has made great progress since he started competing in 2016.
As one of the elder statesmen in his country, he’s trying to grow the sport locally. And despite 5 drytooling gyms in Tokyo — yes, you heard that right — it’s not easy… which we dive into in this chat.
Along with that, in this episode, we discuss:
🧊 Overcoming health issues and getting into climbing🧊 The history of drytooling in Japan🧊 Efforts (and challenges) to grow the sport locally🧊 Where to climb in the country and the strict no-drilling ethos🧊 Unique perspective from a Japanese expat living in Canmore...
📸: Most photos are by @kazuhiro_kodaira, courtesy of Masato.
Resources and links:
If you’d like to learn more about drytooling in Japan, are thinking of visiting, or would like to help grow the community, you can reach out to Masato at @masato_drytooling. And here is the manga that inspired Masato.
If you’d like to learn more about Takeshi, here is an article about one of his routes in the Himalayas, and if you’re interested in going out for a day of guided climbing in the Canadian Rockies, you can connect with him at @taniyan_8000.
🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:
If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Pavel Dobrinskiy is a leading figure within the drytooling community in Moscow and is one of the most prolific route setters on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit 🌏.
Maybe you’ve heard about the Russian style of setting — its high-tension ⚡️ moves are calculated for maximum kinetic energy like Ivan Drago in route form #sterotypingmuch? Perhaps. Anywho, Pavel’s had something to do with that.
From his constant drive to create cutting-edge moves, which necessitated the development of new holds to make those possible, to his thoughtful and collaborative approach to planning routes, to his mentorship, Pavel has helped shape the comp routesetting many are familiar with today.
In this episode, with Pavel’s particular brand of humor in tow, we chat about:
🧊 The magic of Indian Creek🧊 History of comp climbing in Russia🧊 Russian-style training (rule number 1: never shake out)🧊 The importance of speed in competitions🧊 His routesetting philosophy, including a lot of “dos” and “do nots”🧊 Opinions on some of the hardest routes in the worldResources and links:
Pavel is an an all-around climber, and has done everything from expeditions to places like Nepal, China, and Tajikistan to attempting to free “The Nose” to being the first person to flash “A Line Above the Sky” (D15).
He doesn’t post regularly, but you can follow him on Instagram at @majorbobkov.
🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:
If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
📸 Cover photo courtesy of Pavel
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Mixed climbing was always part of the alpinist’s bag of tricks 🪄, but the technical and impossibly steep style we know these days only started to come into its own in the ‘90s.
The period has been referred to as the Modern M-Revolution — a period when grades advanced rapidly, from about M8 to M13 📈 — and lasted roughly from the mid-90s to the early 2010s. It was punctuated at the start by Jeff Lowe’s ascent of “Octopussy” (WI6 M8 R) in 1994 and perhaps came to its conclusion in 2012 when Robert Jasper climbed “Iron Man” in totally dry conditions and officially denoted it with a “D” grade (D14+), effectively spitting off a distinct discipline.
Today, we chat with Raphael Slawinski, one of the leading mixed climbers during this time. Some of his accomplishments include sending some of the first M10s and M11s in Canada, climbing out the Stanley Headwall (including many routes he established), and topping out the unclimbed 7040m K6 West in Pakistan with Ian Welsted, for which they won a Piolets d’Or. I want to note that he managed all of this as a quote-unquote “weekend warrior”, since his full time profession is physics professor.
In this episode, we discuss:
🧊 The evolution of mixed climbing (and the role of bolts)🧊 Advancements in techniques and equipment🧊 His “honest introduction” and progression in the sport🧊 Desire vs. judgement🧊 Close calls and risk management🧊 His relationship with the Stanley Headwall🧊 Social media and climbing documentationResources and links:
If you want to follow what Raphael is up to, you can’t. But you can help him reach 1,000 followers on instagram. His handle is @raphael.slawinski.
There are a bunch of articles and resources mentioned in the interview:
“Degrees of Freedom”, American Alpine Journal (2002)The follow up hubbub to Raphael’s article, “Mixed Messages, Is Hard M-Sport-Climbing Influencing High-Standard Alpinism?”Raphael’s ode to the Stanley HeadwallThe full report of the First Ascent of K6 WestRaphael’s blogColin Haley’s blogNick Bullock’s blogLeave Us a Review!:
If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
📸 Cover photo by Leif Godberson (@leifrdenby)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Whether you think you can or you think you can’t, you’re right, or so goes the pithy expression. But at least in Angelika Rainer’s case, it does seem to bear out.
During Angelika’s 20-year career, she helped set new world standards, becoming the first woman to send D15 ✅ and routinely finishing first or second on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit 🥇. That’s a far cry from the kid whose favorite catchphrase was “I can’t do it”. What changed?
Well, you’ll have to listen to find out.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 Struggling with confidence and how climbing helped🧊 Developing a love for the mountains thanks to her mom🧊 Going all in on drytooling and how the sport evolved🧊 The importance of an “off-season” for recuperation🧊 Her mental battle with “Iron Man” (D14+)🧊 The decision to retire from competitions🧊 Sending her first 9a🧊 The story behind a cappuccino-inspired routeResources and links:
Angelika is spending a lot more time on rock these days, and to see what she’s working on, you can follow her on Instagram @angelika_rainer. She also regularly shares blog updates on her website: angelika-rainer.com
Leave Us a Review!:
Speaking of whether you can or can’t… you CAN help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other podcast platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
📸 Cover photo courtesy of Jonathan White
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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What are those funny folks in tights doing on the YouTubez, kicking into the whozimiwuchits and spitting off those metal thingamajigs?
If you, like me, have ever had questions about Ice Climbing World Cups, this is your episode of Ice Ice Beta… because today we chat with, Rob Adie, the man responsible for organizing the UIAA World Cup Tour.
He’s sort of a one-man band. To help paint the picture, last year, Rob managed 12 events across 3 continents featuring over 150 athletes from 28 countries. (And I want to note, that’s considered a down year). There’s a lot that goes into putting something like that together, obviously, and you can bet your bottom dollar we’ll cover it today.
In this episode, we chat about a range of topics, including:
🧊 Rob’s journey from climbing wall designer to competition organizer🧊 The evolution of ice climbing comps🧊 All the intricacies of managing the World Cup Tour, especially in light of climate change🧊 Ice climbing's Olympic ambitions🧊 The ebb and flow of the sport’s growth🧊 And how the community spirit drives the success of ice climbing competitionsResources and links:
The UIAA will be announcing their calendar for the upcoming World Cup Tour shortly. You can check in at iceclimbing.sport when it’s live.
The org is also launching a YouTube series, “On Thin Ice”, which follows competitors from last year’s World Cup circuit. It should start at the end of the month, and if the trailer is any indication, it’ll be a fun watch.
Lastly, if you’d like to follow along with all the World Cup going-ons, their IG is @uiaa_iceclimbing.
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📸 Cover photo by Sarah Lilley (@saralilleey)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Kevin Lindlau is one of the rare birds in drytooling who excels at both comp *and* outdoor climbing. In January, Kevin completed the second ascent of “Aletheia”, rated D16 ✅, becoming only the second person in the world to climb the grade. (There’s some nuance here since other routes have been proposed at D16, but this is the first route that has been repeated and the grade corroborated). Anywho, on the comp side, Kevin was the first American to ever make World Cup Finals in Lead in 2019, and he has regularly made Finals since.
In this episode, we talk about:
🧊 How Kevin came to climbing after a gruesome accident that ended a promising bicycle racing career🧊 Overcoming self-doubt along the way🧊 The important role of mentorship in his development (shout out to Marcus Garcia)🧊 How to train for high-end roof climbing and competitions in the same year🧊 What most people get wrong about ARC training🧊 The future of drytooling routes🧊 And of course, latte art ☕️Just a warning that Kevin gives a graphic description of his accident. If you’re squeamish, you might want to skip that part. If you’re a sadist, well, enjoy, I guess.
Resources and links:
If you’d like to follow along with Kevin’s latest latte creation, his ice axe juggling or climbing, you can follow him on Instagram @lindlaukevin.
Other notes:
We are also planning a training episode with Kevin and a few others, so if you have any questions from the episode, send me a DM and we’ll include it in that conversation.
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📸 Cover photo by Kara Vogler (@mtnghoststudio)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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It’s a tale old as time: Narrative is the vehicle that connects us to something greater. And for Christian Beckwith, he’s built a career on that foundation.
You probably know of Christian, or have interacted with his work. He’s spent more than thirty years immersed in the world of alpinism, and in that time he was the editor of The American Alpine Journal, co-founded Alpinist — which Reinhold Messner once called “the greatest climbing magazine in the world” — and recently started a “hardcore history” podcast about the 10th Mountain Division called Ninety-Pound Rucksack.
If you haven’t heard of it, you might be living under the rock… but since you're listening to a climbing podcast, that very well may be the case. Regardless, it’s great and I encourage you to give it a listen.
In this episode, we don’t talk much about the podcast, instead, we hone in on:
How to complicate seemingly simple projects by going deepClues to find the narrative in anything you doWhat can happen when you follow your curiosity
Timestamps:
05:18 - From New England to the Tetons
14:45 - Building community through climbing
22:38 - Narrative as a tool for connection and change
27:25 - Exploring the awe
34:20 - Diving into the contribution of climbers on the 10th Mountain Division
42:28 - How history is written
47:56 - Climbing Riva Ridge to understand history
Resources and links:
To listen to Ninety-Pound Rucksack, head to your favorite podcast platform or learn more about it at christianbeckwith.com. If you love what Christian is doing and want to support longform narrative projects like this, I highly encourage you to become a patron at patreon.com/NinetyPoundRucksack.
Find the rest of the notes on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by Christian.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Patreon:
That's it for Season 1! If you enjoyed the conversations and want to help us do many more for Season 2, consider supporting us on Patreon. (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month).
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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What are the things in your life that have infinite complexity upon closer inspection?
I’m betting you didn’t expect that question on a podcast about ice climbing.
But that’s Jackson Yip for ya. An atmospheric researcher by training who specializes in cloud-microphysics, Jackson is also a deeply passionate climber and alpinist who has coupled his interests in a myriad of ways.
Whether scrabbling through murky datasets or slogging to break trail, Jackson finds beauty in the mundane and labyrinthine.
In this wide-ranging conversation, we talk about:
Cloud physics and the complexity of turbulenceThe importance of first-hand experienceHow to develop mental modelsWhy we can and need to do better when evaluating ice conditionsThe mechanics of pillar collapseAnd moreHope you enjoy this chat, I certainly did.
Timestamps:
01:41 - The concept of heat death and its implications
04:00 - Having perspective
05:37 - The complexity of cloud micro-physics
09:15 - Observing and first-hand experience
11:30 - Engineering challenges in climate research
17:58 - Predicting ice formations
20:20 - The tragic consequences of misreading ice conditions
23:10 - Mechanics of slip-out pillar collapse
28:31 - The importance of patience in climbing and life
35:38 - Accessible doesn't mean easy or safe
41:13 - The seasons of life
42:43 - Supporting socioeconomic equality
Resources and links:
If you’re interested in collaborating on one of the ice climbing models that Jackson mentioned, you can reach him at [email protected]. To connect with him on Instagram, he’s @jp_yip. You can learn more about his research on his website: jpyip.com
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by Jackson Yip
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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It’s rare to find American-made climbing companies. The shortlist includes the likes of Metolius, Organic, Misty Mountain, UnParallel, and a handful of rope producers.
It’s even rarer to find technical apparel made in the U.S., which makes NW Alpine so distinct. And by technical, I mean purpose-built clothing designed for the elements, not adventureleisure masquerading as such.
Anywho, the idea for NWA was born out of the 2008 financial crisis. Founded by Bill Amos, a quote-unquote “climber dude” at the time, he wanted to understand what was happening and brushed up on economics. He concluded that basing the economy on financial shenanigans instead of manufacturing wasn’t the way to go.
So, his solution to one of the worst recessions in the history of the country was to create a pair of pants. At its height, the company employed 75 people and put millions back into the local economy.
In this episode, we talk about how NW Alpine is developing innovative apparel (in the true sense of the word), the economic and free trade factors that led to mass offshoring, and how many of your favorite brands are making huge profits off the back of exploited labor.
NWA harkens back to an older ethos for climbing companies. I particularly enjoyed this chat and hope you do too.
Timestamps:
02:00 - Bill's climbing journey
05:57 - Adventures in the Cascades and Alaska
20:10 - The birth of Northwest Alpine
20:13 - Understanding the economic shift in the U.S.
24:41 - The impact of offshoring on the U.S. manufacturing
33:01 - Journey to Kachatna: Scaling manufacturing
37:37 - Rise and fall of Kachatna Apparel
40:59 - Innovation in apparel: The Fortis line and rainproofness post-PFAS
50:36 - The reality of how products are made overseas
58:03 - The Future of Northwest Alpine
Resources and links:
Bill is graciously giving away two Black Spider Hoodies for listeners — one men’s and one women’s. To enter, head to our Instagram @ice_ice_beta to find the details.
If you’d like to follow along with what NW Alpine is up to, their Instagram is @nwalpinegear. To check out their products head to nwalpine.com. They have several new lines dropping this year.
Here is the video of Sir James Goldsmith predicting the future impact of the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) in an interview with Charlie Rose (which we reference in the episode). And NW Alpine's blog also has a lot of great trip reports from the past 14 years.
This is the "contentious" IG post where Bill breaks down how much overseas workers are paid to make expensive outdoor apparel.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the NW Alpine courtesy of GearJunkie
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Today on Ice Ice Beta, we’re chatting with Melissa Orzechowski of The Adirondack Queer Ice Fest 🌈 a no-cost ice climbing festival solely dedicated to the LGBTQ+ outdoor community.
When the idea first came about, the organizers, Melissa, Robbi, and Nol, thought they might be the only attendees — something for just the three of them. They didn’t know how big the community was in the Adirondacks, or beyond. When 40 people showed up in the middle of a blizzard — many of whom hadn’t ice climbed before — they knew there was a need.
Now in their third year, they keep being surprised: Registration filled up within 45 minutes.
In this episode, we talk about why identity-based affinity spaces are important, the power of starting (however small), and being the change you want to see.
Timestamps:
01:32 - Melissa's (sandbagged) journey into ice climbing
06:31 - Organizing in college and beyond
11:20 - Moving to the Adirondacks and building community
18:56 - The start of the Adirondack Queer Ice Fest
25:55 - The importance of affinity spaces in climbing
37:26 - Overcoming gear challenges
45:37 - Future plans and aspirations
Resources and links:
While registration is full, you can support the festival by donating on gofundme.
And if you’d like to follow along with this year’s event, and stay up to date for future happenings, their Instagram is @adirondack_queer_ice_fest. Melissa's IG is @melissaormo.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the Adirondack Queer Ice Fest
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!
Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you’re looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice’s gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer.
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This is the first of a new series — the Community Spotlight — which is a way to celebrate everyday folks who are helping to grow the sports of ice climbing and drytooling.
You may have seen Jon Blackwood’s shipping container project on Instagram (which he is working on with Johnny Korthuis), if you’re curious like I was this chat is about what he’s up to.
For Jon, his journey into drytooling began with a quest for mental healing. The discipline has become more than a tool for therapy though, in his words, “It’s a passion, a lifestyle, and a path to personal growth”.
As a larger-framed individual, traditional rock climbing presented challenges, but drytooling opened a world of possibilities. The deeper he got, the deeper he got, and he ultimately invested in coaching and built his own training wall. In two years, he went from barely being able to hold onto tools to figure 4ing to competing at the competition level.
Through it all, it’s been the tight-knit and supportive community that Jon appreciates most. Whether it’s cheering each other on during comps or generously sharing knowledge, there’s a genuine desire to foster a love for the sport — and Jon is certainly doing his part too.
From welcoming people to climb at his home wall, The Nook, to developing a new outdoor drytooling venue, Jon wants to give back to the sport that has already given so much to him.
Timestamps:
01:24 - Building a climbing structure with shipping containers
04:24 - The motivation behind the project
05:58 - The importance of vertical training
10:20 - Personal journey into drytooling
10:27 - The impact of climbing on mental health
15:41 - Building a drytooling community
19:52 - Asking for help
Resources and links:
Perhaps drytooling has had a big impact on your own life, and you dig what Jon is up to. If you’d like to support Jon’s projects, you can donate through PayPal. His email is [email protected]. Money will go towards holds and construction materials.
You can also follow along with his journey on Instagram @living.forward.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the Jon.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
Thanks to Forecast Equipment for supporting this episode!
Jon uses their tools and has connected with the team on a personal level. That’s because they care about their customers — Marty, Zac and Brian focus on creating products for climbers like themselves which led them to develop their do-it-all Nor*easter. The tools handle everything from moderate snow gullies to steep-and-mixy to World Cup comps and they come stock with Krukonogi picks, cheeks, and hammers so you can configure them to fit your needs. To learn more about their products, check them out at forecastequipment.com.
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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We’re headed across the pond on this episode of Ice Ice Beta. Today, we’re chatting with Willis Morris and Oz Miller of the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club. The club has been called the developmental model of the future, a rolling circus, and bonkers by various authorities.
But what is the organization, how does it work, and why has it been so successful in just a few short years?
A few anecdotes to highlight their success:
They are the largest dry-tooling club in the world, with hundreds of members.The GB Youth Ice Climbing Team, who are part of the Club, are one of, if not the, strongest, in the world. Meanwhile, most other national teams have few, if any, youth members.And most importantly — by internal metrics — the psyche is very, very high.With a rapid growth trajectory and big plans, the future is bright. After listening to Willis and Oz, you’ll likely agree — they’re quite convincing!
Timestamps:
01:39 - Getting to Cheongsong, South Korea isn't as easy as you'd think
07:27 - Meet Willis and Oz
08:20 - Starting the Scottish Dry Tooling Club
13:21 - The growth of the Club and its influence on the climbing community
23:22 - Importance of culture
29:01 - Scottish winter climbing
32:33 - Every climber, even Dave MacLeod, can learn something from dry-tooling
40:50 - The future of ice climbing: winter sport climbing?
41:45 - Success at the comp level (and elsewhere)
55:14 - The future of the Scottish Dry Tooling Club
59:15 - Ice climbing in the Olympics?
01:04:13 - Advice for starting a dry tooling initiative
Resources and links:
If you’d like to learn more about the Scottish DTC, their Instagram has all the important links. It is @scottishdrytoolingclub.
As Willis mentions in the interview, the 7th and final round of the UIAA Ice Climbing Continental Cup for the season is taking place in Sunderland, UK this Saturday, February 10. Live streaming will be available for the finals.
Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo provided by the Scottish Dry-Tooling Club.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!
Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you’re looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice’s gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer.
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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What goes into projecting first free ascent winter lines in New Hampshire?
That’s the subject of today’s chat with Jon Nicolodi, a humble MBA student and hard mixed climbing hard man. (Those are my words, he certainly would not describe himself that way.)
Surprisingly, Jon’s only been mixed climbing a few years but has established some big winter FFAs in that time — the routes range from M8 to M11 and all are on some of the most prominent walls in the state. These include, “Across the Great Divide” (M8 R, 5 pitches, 550′) on Cannon Cliff, “The Resistance” (M10, 5 pitches, 360′) on Mount Washington, and “Cathedral Direct” (5.12b M11 WI5, 7 pitches).
In an Alpinist recap describing a few of the climbs, Rick Wilcox, one of the most accomplished mountaineers in the area and a trailblazing climber in his own right, described what Jon is doing as “state-of-the-art as far as difficulty goes” for New England.
Listen on to hear about Jon’s search for balance, how he trains, and get a great play-by-play of “Cathedral Direct Direct”, a 7-pitch, 5.12b, M11, WI5 route he freed with Chris Saulnier in February of last year.
Timestamps:
02:41 - The appeal of winter climbing
06:29 - Balancing climbing and career
13:25 - The impact of Outward Bound
24:36 - The process of projecting hard climbs
37:14 - Evolving Dry-Tooling Ethics at Cathedral Cave
38:09 The art of finding potential climbs
40:28 - Gear: What he takes on climbs
46:21 - Training for climbing
51:45 - The story of "Cathedral Direct Direct"
1:07:12 - The Importance of partnerships
1:11:44 - Looking forward: Balancing climbing and Life
Resources and links:
If you’d like to hire Jon, you can connect with him at @jon_nicolodi on Instagram.
Here are a few articles that highlight Jon's other climbs, which we didn’t get to in this episode:
Alpinist recap of "Across the Great Divide" and "The Resistance"Jon's American Alpine Club write up of "Across the Great Divide"Jon's IG post about "Cathedral Direct Direct"Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.
Credits:
Episode cover photo by Erik Howes.
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).
Sponsors:
A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!
Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you’re looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice’s gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer.
Patreon:
For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you’ve been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
- Näytä enemmän
