Episodit
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🧊 About the episode
In Matthias Scherer’s words, Norway provides the true character of ice climbing. That is to say, you can always find adventure, from single pitch up to vertical kilometer ice flows.
Outside of popular destinations like Rjukan and Hemsedal, you will rarely find a line that has been picked out. Depending on where you go — from the 1,000-meter ice falls of Gudvangen to the 1,700 fjords that fracture the coastline, to the arctic ice of the far north — you are likely to have a first ascent-like experience, if not an actual FA.
And of course, there are plenty of beginner and intermediate-friendly areas too. Rjukan, for example, has 100s of easily accessible climbs.
This is Matthias’ second time on the podcast. If you recall, he joined us last year to talk about his home, Cogne, another epicenter of ice in Europe. This time around, in classic Matthias style, we discuss:
🧊 Why so many of his top 100 ice climbs are in Norway🧊 The history of ice climbing in the country🧊 Classic routes and areas🧊 Logistics for planning your own trip🧊 The upcoming ice festival in Rjukan, which runs from Thursday, February 6 to Monday, February 10.“The human brain, I think, cannot get what Norway means for ice climbing. It's a little bit like if you look up to the sky in the night and you see all the stars; it's the same with Norway, it's impossible. Because 1,700 fjords, over 50,000 kilometers of coastline, and you can say in every fjord at least there's 10 to 15 ice climbs — so you can do the math by yourself."
🧊 Resources and linksMatthias has climbed over 1,000 frozen waterfalls, and you can see his top 100 list here. To follow along with his adventures, check him out on Instagram, @matthiasscherer or his website matthias-scherer.net.
Want to join for the Norrøna Ice Festival in Rjukan? It runs from February 6-10 and you can find all the details on the website.
To learn a bit more about Matthias, he did an interview on the Norrøna podcast.
Lastly, Matthias would like to thank his sponsors for supporting his adventures: Norrøna, Petzl, Scarpa, and Gloryfy.
📸: Cover photo by Tanja Schmitt.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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🧊 About the episode
According to the American Alpine Club’s 2019 State of Climbing report, only 1% of surveyed climbers identified as Black.
Jordan Revis is trying to change that.
This past winter, Jordan helped lead the first-ever Black Intro to Ice Climbing workshop at the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest and he is part of the DEI committee with the Western Massachusetts Climbers' Coalition, among other initiatives he’s involved with.
For Jordan, it’s a complicated position to be in and has led to a lot of self-reflection.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 What does representation really mean? 🧊 Concepts of identity and belonging🧊 Managing anxiety on and off route🧊 Balancing big goals with being kind to oneself“Because of my lived experience, having the anxiety of it being different than somebody else's, now I'm like, why do I get anxiety over that when everyone else's lived experiences is different?"
🧊 Resources and linksJordan is an AMGA SPI and Apprentice Rock Guide. If you’d like to hire Jordan for a guided day out, the easiest way is to get in touch via Instagram: @revissaywat.
You can also find him at this year’s Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, which runs from January 31st to February 2nd.
Jordan is an ambassador for @arcteryxboston @cypherclimbing @aniiu_gloves and @barndoorhostel
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Puuttuva jakso?
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🧊 About the episode
Who Do You Want to Be?
On the surface, it’s a simple question, but getting to the core is often a devious stumbling through masquerade — “Is this really what I want to be doing?”, “Is this me or who I used to be?”, “What’s next?”
Marcus Garcia is turning 50 this year and he’s lived a lot of lives in that time. These questions have been buzzing.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 Starting anew and learning to let go🧊 Understanding our energy demands and value🧊 Creating and coaching the USA Youth Ice Climbing Team (and what it means to see so many of the athletes flourishing)🧊 Some useful mindset techniques and exercises for other youth coaches🧊 And Marcus reads some poetry too“What letting go really means is not just letting it go, but letting it give the space it needs so you can process and understand the why you're feeling these things. So in a way, you have to grieve that old identity to make space for this new identity. And that is part of what letting go is, is making room for this new person you become.”
🎁 GiveawayMarcus is a Rab athlete, and to support Marcus and this podcast, Rab is giving away a few items to listeners:
Generator Alpine JacketAscendor Alpine Softshell PantsLatok Mountain GORE-TEX Pro JacketOnly members of the podcast will be able to enter, luckily, you can become a member for free, which gives you access to special giveaways like this (and other goods).
🧊 Resources and links
👉 To enter:
In this week's newsletter, we share a question which Marcus answers in this week's episode.
Once you have the answer:
1. Follow @rab.equipment.na and @ice_ice_beta on Instagram
2. DM the answer to the question to @ice_ice_beta
3. Comment on the giveaway post on our Instagram: “#TheMountainPeople” once you’ve sent in your answer
4. Share the giveaway post to your story for an extra entry ⭐️
5. Winners will be randomly selected from submissions that meet all the rules on Monday, December 16! 📢Marcus would like to thank his sponsors, Rab, Camp, Osprey, Lowa, and Sterling. They support him in regularly teaching climbing workshops and clinics, from the art of the offwidth to how to mix climb. The best place to see where Marcus will be and what he’s teaching is on his Instagram, @mgclimber1.
For Marcus’ opening poem, here is the post, and here is his latest video “Beyond the Climb”.
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📸: Cover photo courtesy of Marcus.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you’ve ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that’s what today’s conversation is about.
We’re doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems.
Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.
🎙 Today we chat with Kyle Willis of High Mountain GearKyle Willis of High Mountain Gear, who creates specialized equipment for alpinists, guides, and climbers.
I mean specialized too, like 4 oz. ice hammocks or ski guide tarps — gear that most businesses run away from making. But not Kyle. That’s because he’s driven to fill gaps in the outdoor market — his product decision process always starts with the question, "Why doesn't this exist?"
🎁 GiveawaySpecific to ice climbers, Kyle is generously giving away a few crampon bags and a rare pink Ice Screw Cannon to listeners.
Here’s how to enter:
In the conversation, be on the lookout for the answer to the following question:
👉 Which climbing couple did Kyle work with to create the ice hammock?Once you have the answer to the question:
Follow @highmountaingear and @ice_ice_beta on InstagramDM the answer to the question to @ice_ice_betaComment on the giveaway post on our Instagram: “#whydoesntthisexist?” once you’ve sent in your answerShare the giveaway post to your story for an extra entryWinners will be randomly selected from submissions that meet all the rules on Monday, December 2!Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you’ve ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that’s what today’s conversation is about.
We’re doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems.
Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.
🎙 Today we chat with Ben Carlson and Nick Hernandez, Co-Owners of Furnace IndustriesBen and Nick make gym-safe training equipment for ice climbing and drytooling.
Quite simply, you’d be hard-pressed to find another company that has done more to promote drytooling in the U.S. Core to it all, it’s because they care.
The company was started as a way to give back to the community. Ben and Nick knew they weren’t going to chase FAs or push the grades, but they could help folks train year-round and encourage new people to try the sports. Why? They believe in giving back to the sport that has given them so much – from sponsoring ice fests and Team USA to loaning out tools for drytooling nights to producing educational material – Furnace Industries is always forging ahead to help the community.
Hear more about their story and what makes their tools special in today’s episode.
🎁 GiveawayBen and Nick are generously offering a set of DRY ICE Evolutions.
Here’s how to enter:
In the conversation, be on the lookout for the answer to the following question:
👉 On the original DRY ICE prototype that Ben saw, the tool was made with a fan belt from what car?Once you have the answer:
Follow @furnaceindustries and @ice_ice_beta on InstagramDM the answer to the question to @ice_ice_betaComment on the giveaway post on our Instagram: “#itsalwaysiceseason” once you’ve sent in your answerShare the giveaway post to your story for an extra entryWinners will be randomly selected from submissions that meet all the rules on Monday, December 2!Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you’ve ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that’s what today’s conversation is about.
We’re doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems.
Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.
🎙 Today we chat with Kevin Bourque of OuterUKevin is the the Founder of OuterU, who has turned the ski and mountaineering face mask from a source of complaint into a spark of joy.
If you’re sick of face covers that fog up your goggles or buffs that get wet and freeze up, you’re going to be psyched about OuterU’s faceGloves and bala that covers noses and cheekbones without restricting breathing — solutions that were long overdue.
🎁 GiveawayKevin is generously offering a few sets to listeners — the faceGlove and bala can be used separately, but are optimzied to work together.
Here’s how to enter:
In the conversation, be on the lookout for the answer to the following question:
👉 What is the name of Kevin’s mentor who helped him turn his prototypes into their first commercial products.Once you have the answer to the question:
Follow @outerugear and @ice_ice_beta on InstagramDM the answer to the question to @ice_ice_betaComment on the giveaway post on our Instagram: “#abetterfacemask” once you’ve sent in your answerShare the giveaway post to your story for an extra entryWinners will be randomly selected from submissions that meet all the rules on Monday, December 2!Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you’ve ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that’s what today’s conversation is about.
We’re doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems.
Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.
🎙 Today we chat with Doug HeinrichDoug is the the Founder of Aniiu, which makes technical ice climbing gloves.
Doug is a longtime Salt Lake City climber, route developer, and alpinist, among many superlatives. He’s also the VP of Product Development at Black Diamond. What do you get when you combine 30+ years of ice climbing experience with technical chops?
Listen to the episode to find out.
🎁 GiveawayDoug is generously offering a few pairs of their Viinson™ Short gloves to listeners.
Here’s how to enter:
In the conversation with Doug, be on the lookout for the answer to the following question:
👉 Takashima, Aniiu’s partner, and perhaps the premier technical glove makers in Japan, are now under which generation of family ownership?Once you have the answer to the question:
Follow @aniiu_gloves and @ice_ice_beta on InstagramDM the answer to the question to @ice_ice_betaComment on the giveaway post on our Instagram: “#yourfriendinthecold” once you’ve sent in your answerShare the giveaway post to your story for an extra entryWinners will be randomly selected from submissions that meet all the rules on Monday, December 2!Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This episode is part of the Meet the Maker series where we highlight an entrepreneur who is making specialty gear for ice climbers. If you’ve ever wanted to hear the story behind some of your favorite – and soon to be favorite – products, that’s what today’s conversation is about.
We’re doing this because we believe that thoughtfully-designed gear is more than the sum of its parts: they are crafted by folks who have decades of experience in the sport, are refined through countless iterations and testing, and brought to life with genuine passion to solve real problems.
Said another way, these folks represent the heart and soul of product innovation.
🎙 Today we chat with Paul Shaugnessy and Charlie FaustPaul and Charlie are the the Founders of Beartooth Alpine, who specialize in metal goods made in the USA.
Driven by an ethos of “do not conform”, their mission is to produce the best gear possible out of the best materials. Period.
Their latest release — specialized picks — have gotten folks excited: their 2mm-tapered Ice Hawk is optimized for minimal displacement and durability while their Master Scratchers have been hailed as the best ice climbing mixed pick that will actually hold up to the rigors of scratchy terrain.
🎁 GiveawayPaul and Charlie are generously offering a set of picks to listeners. They have picks for all major ice tool models, including the Nomic, X-Dream, Hydra, and Dark Machine.
Here’s how to enter:
In the conversation, be on the lookout for the answer to the following question:
👉 What is one fundamental difference between their picks and most stock picks on the market?Once you have the answer to the question:
Follow @beartoothalpine and @ice_ice_beta on InstagramDM the answer to the question to @ice_ice_betaComment on the giveaway post on our Instagram: “#donotconform” once you’ve sent in your answerShare the giveaway post to your story for an extra entryWinners will be randomly selected from submissions that meet all the rules on Monday, December 2!...
📸: Cover photos courtesy of Paul and Charlie
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Passion, conviction, obsession. Heart and soul. Words to describe the devoted. Those driven to produce what had never existed before — a crusade to push the sport forward.
When Bill Belcourt talks product, you listen. The former head of R&D at Black Diamond, Bill helmed the department during the heydey, when anything was possible and all roads led to BD for product innovation. Chances are, if you’ve used BD climbing gear in the past 30 years, you’ve used Bill’s work.
Now, Bill leads Blue Ice - North America, where the work continues.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 Why product discovery is a life project, not a job🧊 How finding your people can change everything🧊 The lifecycle of innovation in business and industry🧊 Life lessons from Randy Rackliff and Mark TwightResources and links:
Bill isn’t really active on social media, so no point in sharing links. We didn’t talk about it in the episode, but Bill has been at the vanguard of paragliding in the U.S. for decades (and has several long-distance records). If you’d like to learn more about that facet of his life, this is a good podcast episode.
If you’d like to dive deeper into the (mythology?) of Black Diamond, I enjoyed this article from Outside, “Welcome to the Mutant Factory”.
And of course, if you’d like to support a climbing brand who is continuing the work, check out Blue Ice at blueice.com.
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📸: Cover photo by Barry Blanchard.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Today, we dive into the mindset of a competitor. Gordon McArthur has been a staple on the World Cup circuit across 15 seasons, including a one-year retirement. We talk about the particular highs and lows of returning to the sport, the story of Storm Giant (the first proposed D16 in the world), and what role ego plays in it all.
In particular, our conversation hovers around themes of drive, our relationship to competitiveness, and understanding our true motivations.
We also chat about:
🧊 The moment of retirement: Inner Mongolia, 2017🧊 Challenges and reflections from Edmonton🧊 Mentorship and the legacy we leave behind🧊 The story of Storm Giant🧊 Advice for younger climbersResources and links:
You can learn more about Gordon and read some of his reflections at gordonmcarthur.com. To follow him on Instagram, he’s @gord_mcarthur. If you’re curious to see how Storm Giant came together, definitely check out the Outdoor Research film, “Storm Giant: The World's Hardest Drytooling Route”.
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📸: Cover photo by Jeff Mercier
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Doug Heinrich has just about done it all and seen it all in ice climbing ⛏️ as both a climber and product designer 🧤.
Doug hails from Salt Lake City where he began climbing in the 1970s. He was an extensive route developer, including many mixed climbs in the Wasatch, competed at the X Games, and has been at the vanguard for product at Black Diamond almost from the beginning.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 The climbing scene in Utah, from early bouldering to the evolution of ice climbing, to the advent of sport climbing and sport mixed climbing🧊 Lessons learned from Mugs Stump🧊 The importance of humility🧊 His inverted professional career🧊 The evolution of Black Diamond and what most people don’t understand about the company🧊 How passion projects lead to innovation, and why he’s excited about his new venture, AniiuResources and links:
Doug’s not much for social media, but you should definitely check out his side project, Aniiu, which are focused on making highly technical gloves for all disciplines of ice climbing, including working with some of the world’s leading drytoolers. You can check them out at aniiu.com and follow them on IG @aniiu_gloves.
And for some behind the scenes into Black Diamond R&D and testing, here is a (sponsored, albeit interesting) article from Outside from 2014, with quotes from Doug.
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📸: Photos by Chris Noble (@noblefoto)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Eliteclimb makes the lightest ice tools in the world, and it’s not even close. It’s possible because Jarosław "Jarek" Walewski uses a mix of carbon and kevlar composites, and nothing else—the only metal in his tools are the bolts and picks.
The one-man brand has been bucking industry trends for over a decade now, and it’s his unique position as an independent craftsman that lets Jarek pursue solutions that the bigger brands ignore.
By being attuned to the community and working with some of the world’s best, their tools have been used on no oxygen ascents of Lhotse, expeditions to places like K2 and Broad Peak and at the highest-end of drytooling today.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 How Jarek came to understand composites by working in one of the best glider factories in the world🧊 Why he chooses to make each tool by hand🧊 The advantages of composite materials🧊 Why moving fast and trying things is a good strategy🧊 Being open to opportunities and feedback (positive and negative)🧊 His philosophy on business, craftsmanship, and productionResources and links:
To learn more about Eliteclimb’s tools, head to eliteclimb.com. All of their tools can be customized (from weight, strength, colors, etc.), so if you’re interested, be sure to reach out to Jarek.
On the website, you can also read trip reports from expeditions where their tools have been used. Lastly, there are more updates on their Instagram, @eliteclimb.
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📸: Episode cover photo by Artur Małek courtesy of Jarek
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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This episode is all about training for ice climbing, mixed, drytooling and speed.
To discuss these diverse disciplines, we’re joined by Kevin Lindlau, Aneta Loužecká, and Zac St. Jules and dive into how they think about and structure their training for their respective specialties.
Kevin is a leading roof-climbing drytooler and the first American to send D16, Aneta was last year's World Cup Champion in speed, and Zac is a strong all-around ice and mixed climber who manages to send hard while also working full-time and raising 4 kids.
In this episode, we discuss:
🧊 Each climber’s unique journey and some surprisingly common training mistakes🧊 Why defining your goals is so important🧊 How to break things down to first principles in order to structure your training🧊 Why mastering technique matters as much as being strong🧊 Mental tricks and tips for getting in the right head space🧊 Cost-effective training solutions if access to drytooling is hard to come byResources and links:
To see how Kevin, Aneta, and Zac are training, you can follow them on IG:
Kevin: @lindlaukevinAneta: @anetkalouzeckaZac: @zacst.julesBe sure to send them a thank you message if you found their advice useful.
A few other useful resources:
Uphill Athlete has an article about Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing that I’ve personally usedFurnace Industries has a series about Training for Ice ClimbingWe also had an episode about training for drytooling specifically last season, with Eli EllisLastly, if you don’t have access to a drytooling gym or crag, Furnace Industries' wooden tools are climbing gym safe and also make for great options for training at home. And if you do want to build out your home wall, they also have the largest selection of drytooling-specific holds in the U.S....
📸: Episode cover photo courtesy of Aneta
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Corey Buhay has made a life out of doing what she loves. That’s not to say it’s been easy.
Known as the go-to reporter for all things drytooling ⛏️, Corey quickly built a career as a freelance journalist regularly contributing to Climbing 🧗♀️, Backpacker 🥾, Smithsonian 🗿, and the like. Around the time she started writing full-time, she also started drytooling. Again, she quickly established herself, rising to the top of the rankings for comp ice climbing in North America. But, shortly thereafter, she decided to walk away. How come?
In today’s chat we talk about:
🧊 The assignment that changed everything🧊 Going all in on things that give you happiness🧊 Struggles with expectations, perfectionism and anxiety🧊 Revitalizing Team USA and competitive pressures🧊 Burnout and taking a break🧊 Rediscovering balance and joy in climbingI want to say that I really appreciated Corey’s openness and willingness to discuss difficult topics and her ability to infuse humor into the conversation. Further, if you’re struggling with mental health, know that you’re not alone and that there are folks and resources who can help, some of which we share in the show notes.
Resources and links:
If you’d like to follow Corey’s latest writings, her website is coreybuhay.com.
Some of my personal favorite articles of hers are:
Russia’s World Cup Ice Climbing Scene is as Hardcore as it GetsThe Strange Underworld of Competition Ice ClimbingYears After My Mentor Died in the Backcountry, I Retraced His Final FootstepsMental health resources:
Mental Health in Athletes: Breaking the StigmaResources for Athletes with Eating DisordersAthletes Against Anxiety and Depression Foundation (who offer a free therapy option)Managing Stress in Sports: Quieting the Mind and the Body...
📸: Cover photo by Mike Thurk (@mthurk)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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I’m sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude 🧗♀️, went on 8,000-meter peak expeditions 🏔️, sent M8, skied 50-degree couloirrs⛷️ and regularly ran mountain ultras. Or as Sarah Hudson, our co-host for this episode puts it, “Carolyn is a boss”.
Climbing was only half the story, though. After flirting with the limelight, Carolyn found that she derived as much, if not more, satisfaction from helping others achieve their objectives as she did in accomplishing her own 🙌. As a result, climbing and guiding eventually transitioned into training and coaching. More than 35 years later, Carolyn has worked with 1,000s of athletes in the pursuit of their dreams.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 The life, times and challenges of being a female climber in the 90s🧊 Choosing to stay just under the radar🧊 Her philosophy and approach to running a coaching business🧊 Mental and physical aspects of strength training for female athletes🧊 How the hormonal cycle and nutrition impact athletic performance🧊 Navigating menopauseResources and links:
If you’d like to learn more about Ripple Effect Athlete Training Center or coaching with Carolyn, you can visit their company website, rippleffectraining.com. To follow along with Carolyn’s latest endeavors, her IG account is @blitzkriegbarbie.
To learn more about Carolyn’s coaching journey, there is a great article on Uphill Athlete. Further, UA has a lot of useful resources for training as a female athlete, including a general overview, strength training, and hormones.
If you’d like to dive deeper, Carolyn has shared quite a few resources as well:
Books:
Dr. Stacy Sims: ROAR, Next LevelDr. Lisa Mosconi: The Menopause BrainResearch papers:
Effect of Estrogen on Musculoskeletal Performance and Injury RiskThe Effect of Menstrual Cycle and Contraceptives on ACL Injuries and Laxity: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysisThe Effects of Oral Contraceptives on Exercise Performance in Women: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysisKelly McNulty also has a pdocast on the subject, “the period of the period.”Postmenopausal hormone therapy for cardiovascular health: the evolving dataArticles:
Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport - A Cautionary TaleMore info on REDSHormones for menopause are safe, study finds. Here's what changed...
📸: Cover photo by Angela Hawse (@alpinist007), courtesy of Carolyn.
🙏 And a big thanks to Sarah Hudson (@sarahferocity) for joining as co-host!
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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How many of you were inspired to start climbing because of a comic? I’m sure Masato Najakima is not alone, but he is the only person I can say with certainty that that's the case. (And if you’re curious, it was Gaku: Minna no Yama (in English, "Peak: Everyone's Mountain")).
Anywho, Masato is a leading drytooler in Japan and was one of a contingent from the country who sent “A Line Above the Sky” last year. Masato is a bit of a late bloomer — at 43, he’s one of the older athletes on the UIAA World Cup scene — and has made great progress since he started competing in 2016.
As one of the elder statesmen in his country, he’s trying to grow the sport locally. And despite 5 drytooling gyms in Tokyo — yes, you heard that right — it’s not easy… which we dive into in this chat.
Along with that, in this episode, we discuss:
🧊 Overcoming health issues and getting into climbing🧊 The history of drytooling in Japan🧊 Efforts (and challenges) to grow the sport locally🧊 Where to climb in the country and the strict no-drilling ethos🧊 Unique perspective from a Japanese expat living in Canmore...
📸: Most photos are by @kazuhiro_kodaira, courtesy of Masato.
Resources and links:
If you’d like to learn more about drytooling in Japan, are thinking of visiting, or would like to help grow the community, you can reach out to Masato at @masato_drytooling. And here is the manga that inspired Masato.
If you’d like to learn more about Takeshi, here is an article about one of his routes in the Himalayas, and if you’re interested in going out for a day of guided climbing in the Canadian Rockies, you can connect with him at @taniyan_8000.
🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:
If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Pavel Dobrinskiy is a leading figure within the drytooling community in Moscow and is one of the most prolific route setters on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit 🌏.
Maybe you’ve heard about the Russian style of setting — its high-tension ⚡️ moves are calculated for maximum kinetic energy like Ivan Drago in route form #sterotypingmuch? Perhaps. Anywho, Pavel’s had something to do with that.
From his constant drive to create cutting-edge moves, which necessitated the development of new holds to make those possible, to his thoughtful and collaborative approach to planning routes, to his mentorship, Pavel has helped shape the comp routesetting many are familiar with today.
In this episode, with Pavel’s particular brand of humor in tow, we chat about:
🧊 The magic of Indian Creek🧊 History of comp climbing in Russia🧊 Russian-style training (rule number 1: never shake out)🧊 The importance of speed in competitions🧊 His routesetting philosophy, including a lot of “dos” and “do nots”🧊 Opinions on some of the hardest routes in the worldResources and links:
Pavel is an an all-around climber, and has done everything from expeditions to places like Nepal, China, and Tajikistan to attempting to free “The Nose” to being the first person to flash “A Line Above the Sky” (D15).
He doesn’t post regularly, but you can follow him on Instagram at @majorbobkov.
🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:
If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
📸 Cover photo courtesy of Pavel
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Mixed climbing was always part of the alpinist’s bag of tricks 🪄, but the technical and impossibly steep style we know these days only started to come into its own in the ‘90s.
The period has been referred to as the Modern M-Revolution — a period when grades advanced rapidly, from about M8 to M13 📈 — and lasted roughly from the mid-90s to the early 2010s. It was punctuated at the start by Jeff Lowe’s ascent of “Octopussy” (WI6 M8 R) in 1994 and perhaps came to its conclusion in 2012 when Robert Jasper climbed “Iron Man” in totally dry conditions and officially denoted it with a “D” grade (D14+), effectively spitting off a distinct discipline.
Today, we chat with Raphael Slawinski, one of the leading mixed climbers during this time. Some of his accomplishments include sending some of the first M10s and M11s in Canada, climbing out the Stanley Headwall (including many routes he established), and topping out the unclimbed 7040m K6 West in Pakistan with Ian Welsted, for which they won a Piolets d’Or. I want to note that he managed all of this as a quote-unquote “weekend warrior”, since his full time profession is physics professor.
In this episode, we discuss:
🧊 The evolution of mixed climbing (and the role of bolts)🧊 Advancements in techniques and equipment🧊 His “honest introduction” and progression in the sport🧊 Desire vs. judgement🧊 Close calls and risk management🧊 His relationship with the Stanley Headwall🧊 Social media and climbing documentationResources and links:
If you want to follow what Raphael is up to, you can’t. But you can help him reach 1,000 followers on instagram. His handle is @raphael.slawinski.
There are a bunch of articles and resources mentioned in the interview:
“Degrees of Freedom”, American Alpine Journal (2002)The follow up hubbub to Raphael’s article, “Mixed Messages, Is Hard M-Sport-Climbing Influencing High-Standard Alpinism?”Raphael’s ode to the Stanley HeadwallThe full report of the First Ascent of K6 WestRaphael’s blogColin Haley’s blogNick Bullock’s blogLeave Us a Review!:
If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
📸 Cover photo by Leif Godberson (@leifrdenby)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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Whether you think you can or you think you can’t, you’re right, or so goes the pithy expression. But at least in Angelika Rainer’s case, it does seem to bear out.
During Angelika’s 20-year career, she helped set new world standards, becoming the first woman to send D15 ✅ and routinely finishing first or second on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit 🥇. That’s a far cry from the kid whose favorite catchphrase was “I can’t do it”. What changed?
Well, you’ll have to listen to find out.
In this episode, we chat about:
🧊 Struggling with confidence and how climbing helped🧊 Developing a love for the mountains thanks to her mom🧊 Going all in on drytooling and how the sport evolved🧊 The importance of an “off-season” for recuperation🧊 Her mental battle with “Iron Man” (D14+)🧊 The decision to retire from competitions🧊 Sending her first 9a🧊 The story behind a cappuccino-inspired routeResources and links:
Angelika is spending a lot more time on rock these days, and to see what she’s working on, you can follow her on Instagram @angelika_rainer. She also regularly shares blog updates on her website: angelika-rainer.com
Leave Us a Review!:
Speaking of whether you can or can’t… you CAN help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other podcast platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
📸 Cover photo courtesy of Jonathan White
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
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What are those funny folks in tights doing on the YouTubez, kicking into the whozimiwuchits and spitting off those metal thingamajigs?
If you, like me, have ever had questions about Ice Climbing World Cups, this is your episode of Ice Ice Beta… because today we chat with, Rob Adie, the man responsible for organizing the UIAA World Cup Tour.
He’s sort of a one-man band. To help paint the picture, last year, Rob managed 12 events across 3 continents featuring over 150 athletes from 28 countries. (And I want to note, that’s considered a down year). There’s a lot that goes into putting something like that together, obviously, and you can bet your bottom dollar we’ll cover it today.
In this episode, we chat about a range of topics, including:
🧊 Rob’s journey from climbing wall designer to competition organizer🧊 The evolution of ice climbing comps🧊 All the intricacies of managing the World Cup Tour, especially in light of climate change🧊 Ice climbing's Olympic ambitions🧊 The ebb and flow of the sport’s growth🧊 And how the community spirit drives the success of ice climbing competitionsResources and links:
The UIAA will be announcing their calendar for the upcoming World Cup Tour shortly. You can check in at iceclimbing.sport when it’s live.
The org is also launching a YouTube series, “On Thin Ice”, which follows competitors from last year’s World Cup circuit. It should start at the end of the month, and if the trailer is any indication, it’ll be a fun watch.
Lastly, if you’d like to follow along with all the World Cup going-ons, their IG is @uiaa_iceclimbing.
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📸 Cover photo by Sarah Lilley (@saralilleey)
Credits:
Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries!Become a member:
Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member.
(For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!).
🗣️ Leave us a review!:
You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.
- Näytä enemmän
