Episodit
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Tim Hudson is the founder of Inspired Italy, a ski guiding service that offers guests a mind-blowing week-long ski safari adventure in the Italian Dolomites.
Many skiers yearn for the opportunity to ski in Italy. The Dolomite mountains are so breathtakingly beautiful that UNESCO recognized the entire range as a World Heritage Site in 2009. Tim Hudson founded Inspired Italy based on his own experience skiing rifugio to rifugio across the Italian Alps. Our conversation traverses the origin story for Inspired Italy, the ski safari experience, local cruising, culture, and wine. Please enjoy.
SHOW NOTES
INTERVIEW WITH:
Tim Hudson of Inspired Italy
YouTube
Instagram
Facebook
LinkedIn
EDF RECOMMENDATIONS:
Südtiroler Bauerngröstl - South Tyrolean Farmer’s Hash; pairing = dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc
Kaiserschmarrn - The Emperor’s Pancake; pairing = Riesling Auslese or Beerenauslese
Cotoletta alla Milanese (Recipe) - (Veal Schnitzel); pairing = dry white wine, such as Riesling or Pinot Bianco
Gulaschsuppe - goulash soup; pairing = light red wine like pinot noir (
Polenta
Südtiroler Speck - South Tyrolean cured and smoked ham; pairing = dry regional white wines like Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, and Gewurztraminer, or light red wines like Schiava/Vernatsch or Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir)
Alto-Adige Wines
The 4 Wines You Must Know: Alto Adige | Wine Folly
White Wines
Gewurztraminer
Pinot Bianco / Weissburgunder
Pinot Grigio / Grauburgunder
Sauvignon Blanc
Chardonnay
Sylvaner
Kerner
Müller-Thurgau
Moscato
Red wines
Lagrein
Schiava / Vernatsch
Pinot Nero
Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon
BUSINESSES MENTIONED
Inspired Italy
Alta Badia
Dolomiti Superski
Punta Trieste
Museum Ursus Ladinius
Ursus Ladinius bear (Wikipedia in Italian)
PEOPLE MENTIONED
Willy Costamoling - extreme mountain-climber, a paleontologist, a skier, and an Alpine rescuer.
CHAPTERS / TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Introduction
01:50 What is a Ski Safari?
04:33 The Inspired Italy origin story
07:40 Composition of the group - Americans and Ikon
11:27 When do ski safaris happen?
12:32 Description of the Dolomites
14:31 Südtirol / Alto-Adige always improving
15:25 Top impressions from first time visitors
17:41 Size and scale of the ski region
18:20 Quality of the skiing
21:44 Food and beverage experience
27:07 Wines in the Dolomites
30:18 Value - great wine at a low cost
31:37 The future for Inspired Italy
33:42 FOMO: climate and skiing in the Dolomites
36:23 How to find Inspired Italy
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The White Ring Race (Der Weiße Ring, Das Rennen) is a thrilling amateur ski race scheduled each January in Lech am Arlberg, Austria. If you ski or ride, add it to your bucket list. Lech has a long tradition of offering exceptional hospitality and luxury. With Andrea Ruckendorfer, Head of Event Management at Lech-Zürs Tourism, we dive into the White Ring and other fun and delicious events in Lech.
SHOW NOTES
INTERVIEW WITH:
Andrea Ruckendorfer (LinkedIn, Lech-Zürs Tourismus)
EDF RECOMMENDATIONS:
The White Ring (Der Weiße Ring)
The White Ring Race (Das Rennen)
Lech-Zürs
Lech-Zürs regional overview
Arlberg Weinberg (The Arlberg Vineyard)
Köstlicher Ring (The Delicious Ring)
Lech Card
Vorarlberg (state)
Accommodations
Trans Alpine Run
The Trail Challenge (White Rink in Summer)
The Rally (classic car event)
Lech Community Center (new!)
BUSINESSES MENTIONED
Remus Exhaust Systems
Hotel Post
Hotel Arlberg
Hotel Krone
Der Berghof Lech
Balmalp
Schlegelkopf
Rud-Alpe
Schneggarei
PEOPLE MENTIONED
Jancis Robinson
Nicholas Lander
Sascha Speicher
Willi Balanjuk
CHAPTERS / TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Introduction
03:20 Andrea Ruckendorfer - Head of Event Management - Lech Events
04:48 White Ring Race overview
07:04 For “hobby skiers”; truly unique - no other race like it
11:18 History behind the White Ring
13:30 Remus Team Challenge
15:20 “The Night” - Legendary parties after the race
17:16 Wine break for Grüner Veltliner
17:52 Arlberg Weinberg Event (“Arlberg Vineyard”) - Annual two-week wine and food celebration
22:12 Best Bottle Award
23:41 Köstliche Ring: The “Delicious Ring” - Curated food and wine pairings at four hotels during the Arlberg Weinberg
25:36 Glassweise: “Glass by Glass” - A ski passport for wine lovers
27:30 Year-round events including summer
28:09 Dynafit Trans-Alpine Run
29:00 The Trail Challenge - White Ring in Summer
30:06 Always a focus on top quality
31:20 The Rally - classic car event
32:14 The new Lech community center
FOLLOW EDF ON YOUTUBE & THE SOCIALS:
YouTube: https://tinyurl.com/eatdrinkfun
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eatdrinkfun/
X: https://twitter.com/eatdrinkfun
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/eatdrinkfunllc/
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Puuttuva jakso?
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Karl Maier - The Göckelesmaier
What is the largest, funnest, and best spring festival in Europe? It happens to be the Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival) in Stuttgart, Germany. Who operates the best tent at the Frühlingsfest? Many believe it’s Karl Maier of the Göckelesmaier.
Do you love big beers and a welcoming, jubilant atmosphere that is also family friendly? Then the Frühlingsfest is for you. This massive party flies under the radar for many international tourists, which makes it feel even more special and exclusive.
The Frühlingsfest is still a best kept secret unfamiliar to most tourists.
Stuttgart’s neighbor to the east, Munich, gets most of the fame and glory for its legendary Oktoberfest (held for three weeks in late September and October). But believe it or not, Stuttgart far outshines its Bavarian sister in April and May every year, despite the fact that Munich has its own competing version of the Frühlingsfest. Take note that Stuttgart also has its version of Oktoberfest, called the Cannstatter Wasen or Volksfest (the meadow of Cannstatt, or People’s Festival).
In this episode we dive deeply with Karl Maier, who took over his family festival business a few decades ago and transformed it into a modern, stylish brand. Not exactly what you would imagine for a beer tent, but just spend a few minutes speaking with Karl - and visit the tent - and you can immediately appreciate the thoughtful blend of “full gas” party fun with a touch of modern style, elegance, and refinement. It makes for a very enjoyable day and night of drinking beer and eating chicken. Enjoy.
LINKS
Interview with:
Karl Maier (Region Stuttgart)
USEFUL LINKS:
Der Aufbau (the construction): Tent Construction: Göckelsmaier - Behind the Scenes
Music:
7Promille Party Band at the Göckelesmaier Wasen 2019
Partyfürsten at the Göckelesmaier Wasen 2019
7Promille Party Band at the Göckelesmaier Frühlingsfest 2016
Lollies at the Göckelesmaier Wasen 2012 (Tage Wie Diese / “Days Like These”)
Schwäbische “Tracht” (Swabian traditional dress/costume): Krueger
Bavarian Tracht: Angermaier
Beer: Stuttgarter Hofbräu (pronounced HOF-broy, with a long “o” as in oak, or smoke, not a short “o” like otter)
Beer: Wulle (pronounced VOO-luh), a Stuttgart beer founded in 1823 with strong kult following and now part of the larger Dinkelacker brand, which also includes Schwabenbräu (SHVA-BEN-broy, with a long “a” as in swan or all) and Sandwald (ZAND-vald, also with long “a” sounds) hefeweizen (“yeast wheat” = wheat beer)
Beer Fürstenberg (translated: mountain of the prince), a regional brewery from Donaueschingen founded in 1283
Food: Linsen und Spätzle (LIN-zen unt SPETZ-lay), lentils and Schwäbisch noodles
Food: Gaisburger Marsch (GUYS-boor-ger MARSH), a hearty beef stew with spätzle
Food: Zwiebelrostbraten (TSVEE-bell ROAST-braten), steak with onions
Food: Maultaschen (MOWL-tash-en, with an “o” as in owl), basically Schwäbisch raviolis, traditionally filled with meat but can be vegetarian. The noodle is intended to hide the meat from God on holy days)
Food: Schupfnudeln (SHOOPF-nood-eln), which are thick noodle like dumplings
SHOW NOTES
[00:00:50] The return of big beer festivals
[00:04:15] Background of the Maier family business, from ice cream, to bratwurst, to rotisserie chickens, with the support of the famous Ammer family in Munich.
[00:10:05] 25,000 roasted chickens sold in three weeks
[00:12:30] The incredible engineering behind beer fest tents; introducing refined wood finishings, chandeliers, sophisticated lighting schemes, and bars that serve cocktails
[00:16:10] The design concept for the Göckelesmaier; fans of architecture and graphic design; incorporating designs they appreciate during their travels
[00:19:28] What to wear to the bierfest: “tracht”, lederhosen and dirndls.
[00:22:30] Ernte Dankfest (Harvest Festival) - the historical basis for these beer festivals was to celebrate the agricultural sector, showcase new technologies, and celebrate the seasons.
[00:24:13] Your chances of getting into the tent are higher if you wear traditional dress
[00:27:32] 250,000 liters of beer over three weeks. While impressive, this is still only a fraction the amount of beer served during Oktoberfest. But Stuttgart offers more variety, such as wine, cocktails, mixed drinks, and soft drinks.
[00:30:01] Overcoming the pandemic - more than two years without any income. Thoughts on how to keep loyal staff engaged and supported via “Kurzarbeit” (short work).
[00:33:18] Insight into places that are worth visiting from an architectural and design perspective: London, New York, Chicago (Mies van der Rohe), Paris, Barcelona, and all of Italy.
[00:37:50] Beer or wine? The answer is beer, but when drinking wine, Karl prefers German wines. It is a personal priority to buy locally and support local businesses.
[00:40:35] Which beers are carried by the Göckelesmaier tent? Wulle, Stuttgarter Hofbrau, and other local breweries.
[00:42:15] How does one become a tent owner and exhibitioner? “Zulassungs-Richtlinien” - Constitution for the Cannstatter Wasen. Every brewery that sits in the Stuttgart region has the right to put up a tent: Hofbrau, Dinkelacher, Schwaben Brau. One Landbauerie (brewery from the nearer region) is added: Fürstenberg from Donau-Eschingen. The other “independent” tents are provided by a 5-year license through a formal review process: Göckelesmaier, Sonja Merz. The independent tents pick a brewery to work with.
[00:46:20] Could the Göckelesmaier work in other countries? Inquiries are frequent, but it would be very difficult to maintain authenticity, quality, and brand protection.
[00:50:05] The beer tent is a societal melting pot where everyone comes together.
[00:55:30] - If forced to choose a single cuisine, if not Schwäbisch cuisine, then Italian. Swabian cuisine is special: Linsen und spätzle mit Saitenwürstle - not fancy, but great comfort food; Gaisburger Marsch; Maultaschen; Schupfnudeln.
[00:58:12] The way ahead is to start again post pandemic. People will want to return to large public gatherings again, but it may take a little time.
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The Benanti Viticolori tasting room and visitor reception area is just north of Catania. The buildings are surrounded by a portion of the family’s beautiful vineyards, which begin their ascent up the southeastern slopes of Mt. Etna. This is also a beautiful location for a private event or celebration. In addition to the old press and barrel aging rooms, there is a gorgeous swimming pool and garden to enjoy a warm afternoon or sunset.
Benanti’s wines are available for sale in major U.S. and European markets. Wine Spectator has acknowledged Benanti as one of the “Finest Italian Wines: 100 Great Producers” on numerous occasions. In fact, all the major wine publications have sung their praises - Decantur, Wine Advocate, Jancis Robinson, Wine Enthusiast, Wine & Spirits.
In Vinous.com, wine writer Jan d’Agata stated the following:
“If Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Carricante have become superstar grape varieties, along with Etna wines in general, credit needs to go to the Benanti family (...), who were by far the first to believe in this mountain viticulture. Today Benanti makes what might be Italy’s best white wine, the Etna Bianco Superiore Pietra Marina, as well as the best version of the mono-variety Nerello Cappuccio, a wine that shows that this variety does not necessarily have to be play second fiddle to the more famous Nerello Mascalese.”
LINKS
Interview with:
Salvino Benanti (Insta) of Benanti Viticoltori (Insta)
Useful Links:
Benanti family History and wine Profile
Mt. Etna is Europe's largest active volcano - "Mama Etna's" latest eruptions in February 2021
Mise en abyme blog post on Mt. Etna viticultural environment
Decanter Regional Profile: Etna, Sicily
Traditional wine press: palmento (credit to Cantine Nicosia)
Three main local Nerello Mascalese - Wine Folly Profile
Nerello Capuccio - Wine Searcher
Carricante
Catarratto
1980s - conscious shift among small group of growers to develop exceptionally high quality wines from local varieties
Engaged consultants from Piemonte and Burgundy (experts in cooler climate, elegant red wines focused on Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir)
Contrada Monte Serra (contrada is a small, demarcated vineyard, like a "clos" in Burgundy). Contrada Monte Serra is a volcanic crater from Mt. Etna - dark, sandy volcanic, well drained soils with red pumice
Phylloxera-resistant vineyards also include Serra della Contessa and Rovittello (Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio)
Due to exceptional drainage, many vines are ungrafted and over 100 years old
Ancient single-stake training system called alberello; one chestnut stake per vine, head trained. Must be managed manually. Individual plants are stressed and compete against each other to focus energy on the fruit
Contrada Rinazzo Etna Bianco Superiore (Spec Sheet)
Etna Bianco Superiore - use 100% Carricante grapes from their vineyard in Milo.
DOC law requires a minimum 80% Carricante and maximum 20% Catarato, but Benanti chooses to use 100% Carricante.
The wine is characterized primarily by aromatic white and yellow flowers, followed by ripe apple and orange peel and blossom aromas. The wine is dry, mineral driven, with detectable salinity. Acidity is medium-plus and the finish is pleasantly long
Relatively new planing - only 800 bottles
Milo - faces east. Significant rainfall. High acidity and delicious salinity
Pietra Marina - The top of the line since 1988.
2 years on the lees. Maturation extended from 4 to 5 years.
100% Carricante.
The Mt. Etna DOC accounts for only 5% of all Sicilian wine production.
New York Times: Benanti's 2015 Pietra Marina is "among the best whites in Italy" (may require a subscription to NYT)
See also, "Your Next Lesson: Etna Bianco" by Eric Asimov (may require a subscription to NYT)
Nerello Capuccio is not an Etna Rosso, because DOC laws requires minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese to be called an Etna Rosso. Therefore, Nerello Cappuccio is a IGT wine. Nevertheless, it's delicious and it can offer a bit more power for those who are seeking it.
Benanti uses only stainless steel for aging Nerello Cappuccio. The aromas are of black fruits, dried herbs, a smokey notes.
Concentration and complexity in the wine is enhanced because the vineyards are on the southwestern slopes of Mt. Etna, which are the warmest and driest part of the region during the day, but the temperature drops significantly at night.
Nerello Mascalese is lighter in color and more tannic. It is a quintessential food wine, like a fine Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir.
I compared two Etna Rosso wines (Nerello Mascalese) from different Contrada. The vintages, vinification, and aging techniques were the same for both. The only difference was the location of the vineyard location.
The Etna Rosso from Contrada Monte Serra in the southeast (hilly, humid and warm, wetter, lower altitude, lots of influence from the sea, but with greater diurnal variation) highlighted red fruits like raspberries, spice, smooth tannins and a long finish.
The Etna Rosso from Contrada Cavaliere in the Southwest (hotter, drier, direct exposition to the sun, but still quite cool at night) produces a wine darker in color with more concentration, and is slightly more full bodied. Still, warmer red fruits, savory herbs and spices shine through in beautiful balance with its alcohol, acidity, and finish.
Benanti is truly unique for its work to experiment with and isolate four optimal indigenous yeasts (Paper: A Selection of Yeasts for Enological Use in the Territory of DOC Etna, Sicily, by Benanti Viticoltori). These yeasts have been used exclusively since 2010
If you travel to Sicily, please consider a visit to Benanti (an advanced reservation is requested). They can arrange for tailor-made experiences in their tasting room, elegant dining room, or poolside.
SHOW NOTES
[00:02:12] Mt. Etna - Europe’s largest active volcano - and it is very active
[00:02:45] Vitally important side note about Sician breakfast - granita with a brioche and coffee. #bliss
[00:03:30] History of Mt. Enta’s influence - mountain wines; old EU wines laws encouraged bulk wine production
[00:05:00] Palmento - the old lava stone wine press
[00:06:08] 1980s - the beginnings and the leadership of Giuseppe Benanti, a successful pharmacist
[00:07:50] Replacing international varieties with unique indigenous varieties; growing from 5 vintners in 1980 to over 150 today. Consultants from Piemonte and Burgundy helped map the region.
[00:08:52] Benanti is the only vineyard that has plots on all four major slopes of Etna. Mt. Etna has a unique climate and terroir.
[00:08:52] Milo - the home of Etna Bianca Superiore - home of Pietra Marina, Benanti’s flagship wine
[00:10:42] In the Monte Serra vineyard for Nerello Mascalese, dark volcanic pumice soils, which are extremely well drained. As a result, some vines are over 80 years old, as the phylloxera louse cannot survive.
[00:13:10] Vintage variations influenced by recent climates changes.
[00:14:40] Arbarello training system - an ancient single chestnut stake, head trained system developed by the Romans
[00:15:40] Discussion with Salvino Benanti. Benanti produces about 160,000 bottles per year. Mt. Etna region is only 5% of the total Sicilian vineyard surface. Fresh, crip whites and light-bodied reds.
[00:17:47] Mt. Etna appellation rules do not dictate what is done in the cellar. The rules focus on the vineyard - what grapes may be grown, but not how the winemaker may process or age the wines.
[00:19:56] Some Benanti family history. New investments in the vineyard, in the cellar, and in hospitality.
[00:22:30] Tasting wines, first with Rinazzo, a cool parcel at elevation on the east side of the volcano that receives significant rainfall. Resulting wines are about 12% ABV with a beautiful, sharp saline edge, kissed by sea breezes and having touched only stainless steel and some lees aging. The Rinazzo relieves some of the market pressure on Pietra Marina, which requires two years of oak aging and often even longer bottle aging.
[00:25:14] Leveraging Giuseppe Benanti’s chemistry background to isolate and cultivate Benanti’s unique indigenous yeast strain. Benanti simulates a spontaneous fermentation, but they are using only a specific natural yeast strain that originated in their cellar.
[00:27:32] Benanti and the US market. One third of Benanti’s wine production goes to the US. Benanti works with a significant single importer, Wilson Daniels, and 18 small distributors across America.
[00:28:59] The joys of pairing guests in a tasting room.
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When someone recommends a Riesling to you, what is your gut response? Do you assume it is cloyingly sweet? For several decades, roughly the latter half of the 20th Century, this would have been an appropriate response. And truthfully, we Americans still have a huge soft spot for sweeter German wines, even if we don’t want to admit it.
But thanks to Erni Loosen, these old assumptions have started to change. The Mosel valley has always been famous for its delicious wines, noted for their mouthwatering acidity and varying degrees of residual sugar (RS). But the vast majority of white wines in Germany are actually bone dry, and even traditional producers in the Mosel region produce dry wines with no RS.
I consider Erni Loosen to be the godfather of Riesling because, since taking over his family's vineyards in the late 1980s, he led the movement to re-acknowledge Riesling as one of the finest and most enjoyable grape varieties in the world.
Thanks to him, beautiful, complex, age-worthy Rieslings of all dryness and sweetness levels are ascendant. Riesling makes incredible sparkling wines, dry wines, and in the Mosel region, some of the most delicious (and most expensive) sweet wines in the world.
I recorded my conversation with Erni Loosen in the summer of 2020. It was an interesting time when CoronaVirus infections were abating in Germany, restaurants were re-opening, and people were traveling again.
Erni is a font of encyclopedic knowledge about German wines.
We discuss Germany's traditional wine classification system, the 1971 wine law, and its impact on the quality and reputation of German wines.
He provides a great overview of Roman history and the technology that these Germanic tribes contributed to wine making and transportation.
We dig into the unique climate of the Mosel river, its Devonian slate soils, and he debunks some of the myths that I've picked up during my studies.
We also touch on more contemporary stories, like Dr. Loosen's partnership with Chateau St. Michelle in the Washington State, the impact of recent US tariffs on German wines, and the impact of COVID-19.
We cover a lot of ground in 80 minutes. I had a blast during this conversation, and I really hope you enjoy this episode.
LINKS
Interview with: Ernst "Erni" Loosen
Decantur Interview
Dr. Loosen Philosophy: a great wine is created in the mind
Useful Links
Riesling (from everyone's favorite encyclopedia)
German Wine Law of 1971 (Weingesetz 1971; Wine Folly article on Riesling and the German classification system)
Practical History of German wine - in the mid-19th Century, Mosel and Rheingau wines were some of the most expensive wines in the world
US tariffs on EU wine from Germany and France (Notice of Revision of Section 301 Action)
US imposes additional 25% tariff on French wines (US Trade Representative Press Release; the Local):
Eroica Washington State Riesling - partnership with Chateau St. Michelle
Roman history - (Ancient Rome and Wine) - Legionnaires paid in wheat, oil, and wine
Roman Wine Ship (Neumagener Weinschiff)
Vineyards in England
Unique Devonian slate and Mosel microclimate (Wine Folly - The Mosel Valley Wine Guide)
Potassium in slate (potassium in viticulture)
Drainage on steep slopes (learn more about soil health at the US Davis Portal)
Riesling and long hang-time - Aromatic and Phenolic Ripeness (Schneider Oenologie)
Sweetness in wine and the impact of botrytis cinerea (summary by Wine Folly; Guild Somm article by Kelli White)
EU is working on a new European wine law (EU wine legislation; regulations on wine quality schemes)
German Wine Classification (1868) / Burgundy AOC Classification (1936)
Tasting three wines
Rotschiefer Riesling Trocken Gutswein (red slate dry Riesling, estate wine, 12.5% ABV);
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling GG "Alte Reben" (Kingdom of Heaven plot above the village of Graach grand cru Riesling form old vines - 130-year-old un-grafted vines, 12.5% ABV)
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Sun Dial plot above the village of Wehlen, a grand cru location, off-dry Riesling with 8% ABV)
"Ohio Dry Riesling" (must weights - Oechsle)
Old-style Kabinett; 1971 wine law liberalized rules for sweetness, which caused more sweet wines to flood the market.
Impact of COVID-19
US is still the largest market (50%-60%); Scandinavian and Chinese markets are expanding
Indonesia imposes ban on alcohol sales during COVID (article)
UAE adjusting laws to permit limited sale and consumption due to economic downturn (article)
NOTES:
[00:03:05] Riesling’s reputation: keeping the Riesling flag flying
[00:05:00] The American market - buying varietal wines
[00:06:00] 1971 German Wine Law
[00:08:15] Riesling is a favorite among sommeliers, wine writers, and experts
[00:10:05] Challenges selling high-end, fine Riesling
[00:13:30] US tariffs on European wine
[00:15:15] Partnerships and joint ventures in the US - Chateau St. Michelle and Eroica
[00:21:12] Roman history - paying Legionaires with wine, wheat, and oil for trade
[00:24:18] Oak barrels - an invention of the German and Celtic tribes
[00:27:30] Mosel River - traditionally the most northern growing wine region; but the climate was warmer in Roman times, cooled in the 1300s to the 1800s, and now warming again
[00:30:40] The unique microclimate of the Mosel with steep hills and direct inclination to the sun
[00:31:37] Grape vines need poor soil
[00:31:50] Unique Devonian slate soils that are 400 million years old - the slate hills of the Rheinland
[00:34:28] 300 meters of elevation and the moderating influence of the Mosel; ice wines need -8 degrees celsius and use vines at the top of the hill
[00:35:55] Slate as a great natural source of potassium (essential for wine)
[00:36:54] Single stake training systems on steep slopes; plant grape vines only where nothing else grows
[00:38:38] Perfect drainage from steep slopes
[00:42:32] Riesling and extended “hang time” - good for aromatics and aroma ripeness; aroma ripeness requires more time than sugar ripeness; therefore cooler climates are optimal
[00:46:15] Winemaking - how fruity and sweeter wines are made by arresting fermentation
[00:48:10] 25% dry wines; 75% sweeter wines
[00:49:47] Botrytized grapes - unaffected grapes (black buckets - 50%); Auslese (red buckets); Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese (white buckets)
[00:52:00] Kabinett picked when grapes have 9% potential alcohol
[00:52:28] Spätlese - “later” harvest (about two weeks after the main harvest) 10.5-11.5% potential alcohol
[00:52:00] Dry wines - when potential alcohol is above 11.5% potential alcohol
[00:53:52] EU revising European Wine Law - focusing on the quality of the vineyard (Roman Model), rather than must weight (natural sugar ripeness)
[00:54:54] Original German Classification from 1868 (50 years older than Burgundy classification), but the German wine law never integrated historic wine maps into the modern wine law
[00:56:50] Tasting three wines. Dr. Loosen has 10 grand cru vineyards. If you see a vineyard name on the label of a Dr. Loosen bottle, it’s a Grand Cru.
[00:59:55] Mother’s family (Prüm) produced only fruity style wines, but father’s family produced only dry wines
[01:00:30] Grandfather on father’s side aged dry wines on indigenous yeast for two to eight years in old barrels. Dr. Loosen has carried this tradition forward.
[01:04:00] The versatility of Riesling - “Riesling can do everything”
[01:05:20] The American pallet for sweetness
[01:06:50] A glass of Kabinett whenever you receive guests
[01:08:00] Kabinetts were dryer wines before 1971; Dr. Loosen recreates this older style and calls it “traditional”
[01:11:40] Impact of the pandemic on wine sales and business
[01:17:50] US remains the biggest market for Dr. Loosen
[01:18:45] Growth of Scandinavian and Chinese markets - mail order businesses
[01:21:42] Germany does not require anyone to have a license to sell alcohol; no duties or taxes on wine beyond VAT
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Eugen Scalet, along with his wife, Anna Maria, revolutionized traditional Austrian aprés ski. This story begins in the late 1980s, when the Scalets opened their slope-side sheep barn to thirsty skiers. Today, the MooserWirt in St. Anton, Tirol is ground zero for one of the world's greatest parties.
Our conversation is wide-ranging. We discuss the MooserWirt's humble beginnings, DJ Gerhard's magical music formula that keeps the crowd thumping every day, the obligation to serve Wienerschnitzel even to fine diners (because it’s Austria), and the demands of carrying 50kg (110lbs) trays of beer and shots to thirsty skiers.
The MooserWirt's tagline is "Wahrscheinlich die schlechteste Skihütte am Arlberg". Translations are often tough. Technically, it's "Possibly the worst ski hut in the Arlberg” mountain region]. Colloquially, it is the most "bad-ass" ski party you'll ever experience.
If you like happy people and good vibes. If you like singing and dancing to rock and pop anthems in ski boots. If you don’t mind skiing or riding down the last 300 meters of slopes in the dark (after 4 hours of partying) towards the twinkling lights of a beautiful Tyrollean village. Then this place is meant for you.
LINKS
Interview with:
Eugen Scalet - (Interview with La Loupe)
Useful Links:
The MooserWirt
Mooser Hotel (****s)
Senn Hütte aprés ski
DJ Gerhard
Bries :: sweetbreads. Article by Anthony Bourdain: Eating the Best of the Rest, NYT, June 11, 2003
Kaiserschmarren (The Emperor's Pancake)
Adi Werner - Hospitz Hotel St. Christoph
Chateau Cheval Blanc
Tegernseer (Eugen's favorite beer, from the Tegernsee Monastery in Bavaria)
Gin in Germany: NYT Article
Monkey 47 (German Gin)
GinStr (honored as the world's best gin for G&T)
Nageln (Austrian nail drinking game)
Waiters at Mooserwirt - 110lbs trays of beer and shots: Here and Here
The Eisbär (Polar Bear) song
Darwin Awards
CNN Article: COVID has shuttered ski season in the alps - with one exception
Music:
Dan Henig
Joey Pecoraro
SHOW NOTES
[05:10] What is the Mooserwirt?
[06:16] What is Austrian aprés ski?
[09:55] Testing the ideal time to end the party - closing when it’s full at 20:00
[12:00] Getting home in the dark
[18:00] Transitioning from farming to partying
[25:00] DJ Gerhard - from live band to party deity
[29:20] Legendary apres ski hits - the magic rotation
[33:03] A party for everyone
[36:36] Luxury - keeping quality high
[41:50] The Mooserwirt Hotel concept
[46:30] Austrian food and wine
[52:50] A wine lover
[1:01:00] Serving trays of 50 beers at a time - an outstanding staff
[1:10:50] A love of travel
[1:14:00] Continuing the legacy with the next generation
[1:15:10] You can’t do this in the United States
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How Important is Your Wine Glass?
This episode asks a simple question: how important is your wine glass?
I begin with a conversation I had with Maximilian Riedel at Pro Wein in Dusseldorf. Maximilian is the 11th generation of his family to make fine glass products, and since 2014 he has been the President and CEO of Riedel Crystal. We learn a little history about Riedel, its connection to the US market, and its iconic innovations.
I also discuss the tasting that Maximilian led me through after the interview in which I sampled the same Pinot Noir from three different Riedel glasses. It’s not hype - varietal specific glasses can make a difference. And, yes, they’re beautiful.
We cover wine glass materials, anatomy, and recommendations for selecting the right wine glass. At a minimum, seek out a clear glass without ridges or seams (either mouth blown or made by a very high quality machine). The glass should be clear and as thin as possible. Modern glasses do not use lead (thankfully), but with the help of science and skill they retain most of the highly refractive properties of lead crystal, which make them equally as beautiful.
We conclude with a brief sound test - indeed, you can audibly distinguish the difference in high quality versus lesser quality wine glasses.
LINKS
Interview with:
Maximilian Riedel - Instagram
Riedel The Wine Glass Company
Riedel History and Generations
Other high quality wine glass producers to consider:
Spiegelau (Germany) - a sister brand of Nachtman, and owned by Riedel since 2004
Nachtman (Germany) - a sister brand of Spiegelau, and owned by Riedel since 2004
Zwiesel Crystal Glass (Germany; brands include Schott Zwiesel, Zwiesel Kristallglas)
Zalto Glass (Germany)
Baccarat (France)
Other Links:
Anatomy of a wine glass - D-Vine.pro
Claus Joseph Riedel glasses at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York City
How to Choose a Wine Glass - Decanter Article
Oxford Companion to Wine. Terms: Drinking Vessels, glass, glasses
Music:
Dan Henig
Joey Pecoraro
SHOW NOTES
[00:20] Intro
[01:07] How important is your wine glass?
[01:42] Varietal-specific wine glasses
[02:10] Riedel history
[03:50] Max Riedel
[04:16] Evolution of Riedel’s business
[05:45] The “Fish Bowl”
[06:10] Riedel in the US market
[07:26] “Universal glasses don’t exist]
[08:58] Riedel and innovation: the “O” Series
[10:05] Wine glass anatomy
[11:23] Tasting Pinot Noir from three different glasses
[14:23] Recommendations: what to look for in a wine glass
[15:50] Proper etiquette for holding a glass and sipping wine
[17:00] “Crystal glass” vs. lead crystal (24% lead oxide)
[18:45] Sound test: good, high, and ultra-high quality wine glasses
[20:19] Conclusion
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If you’ve never heard of a wine ski safari, welcome to heaven on Earth. Ski or ride between four Italian alpine huts in the heart of northern Italy’s Dolomite mountains and sip over 60 regional wines. I speak with local producers, restaurant owners, and the brand manager of the Alta Badia region in Südtirol/Alto-Adige. EDF offers Custom Adventures and sommelier ski services if you ever want to go.
SHOW NOTES
[00:46] Intro
[04:07] History of Alta Badia - Sylvia, Alta Badia Brand Manager
[05:40] Overview of the Wine Ski Safari, Nora, Kellerie St. Pauls
[08:30] Deep dive on Südtirol wines and terroir
[14:43] Transforming Alto Adige into a gastronomic tourism destination
[16:35] Sciare con gusto - Skiing with Taste
[19:03] Lagrein, a rich, complex, and delicious local red wine variety
[19:53] Ladin culture, traditions, and language
[21:55] Regional cuisine - “the dumplings!”
[23:26] Pairing food and wine - the speck and cheese!
[25:26] Summer activities in Alta Badia
[26:30] Upcoming events - the original ski sommelier experience
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Are you interested in delicious adult beverages? Great food? How about world-class travel to beautiful places? Listen to the Eat Drink Fun Podcast and let Certified Sommelier, attorney, consultant, entrepreneur, and peripatetic nomad Kris Miller introduce you to top performers in the beverage and hospitality industries, as well as some fun and spirited discussions with fellow travelers.
