Episodit
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This episode is a McQueen I Voss I S/S 2001 runway show review with the incredible London based John Matheson aka @McQueen_Vault.
John, who has been curating is private McQueen archive for over 25 years, has contributed to many fashion discussions, publications, and exhibitions including LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and NGV (National Gallery Victoria, Melbourne).
If you love Lee Alexander McQueen, then this conversation is for you. I hope you enjoy and please share your thoughts!
***WARNING: Video contains images that may be considered sensitive ***
Runway Video Courtesy of Alexander McQueen YouTube channel. You can access it HERE.
#leealexandermcqueen #alexandermcqueen #mcqueen #mcqueenvault #johnmatheson #unbiasedlabelpodcast #zarakorutz
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This episode is a conversation with two culture makers based in London-- Terence Eben (Tee) and â Franklin Freshâ .
Tee built streetwear brands in the U.S. from back in the day in the 1990s. He has always played a role in bridging culture from the early days of hip hop emergence. Tee's brand NEVER FADE focuses on marrying social agenda and design philosophy, with a focus on creating a label as an advocate for the global millennial generation. Franklin Fresh found his way to fashion as a stylist who partners with Trap Star as a brand collaborator. Franklin is also a musician and visual artist.
Follow Franklin Fresh's Spotify page HERE.
#fashion #streatwear #culture #hiphop #virgilabloh #music #musicandfashion
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This episode is a conversation with Adrian Alicea, Voguing Icon of the Red Era Ballroom and New York City fashion designer. Alicea will show his eponymous brand in NYFW on Sunday, September 10th at La Mama.
Alicea toured the world as a professional dancer alongside the legendary Willi Ninja including two electrifying performances in âDeep in Vogueâ and âWaltz Darlingâ by the multi-talented Malcolm McClaren. You may remember the now iconic image of Alicea vouging the runway with Iman and Willi Ninja for Thierry Mugler in 1989. Alicea also modeled and danced the runway for Hermes, Giorgio Armani, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Gianfranco Ferre, Vivienne Westwood, and Patricia Fields to name a few. He has also been featured in Vogue around the world for his performing and fashion designs.
Adrian Alicea is a new romantic of romantic excesses. Creating a pirate-like fairy-tale of disguises, he walks a tightrope between ironic hedonistic inclination and highly serious commentary.
There is an insane carcinogenic, merciless narcissism. There is a deafening, endless shout of âgimme more!â â Earl MurrayA special shout out to Edwin Fontanez--it's because of your fashion show Bondages in 1989 that today, I met Adrian. Thank you also to Smile Design Gallery on 57th St. for the incredible studio space. We love the whole crew over there!
#NYFW #adrianalicea #deepinvouge #Voguing #Vogue #Newyorkfashion #fashion #NYCfashion #unbiasedlabelpodcast
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David Curtis-Ring is a British artist and designer, based in London. He specialises in creating set design and sculpture for installation, film and performance. David is known for his collaborations with Craig Green, working alongside the designer, since the brandâs launch in 2013. He was production designer for Pink Floydâs The Endless River film directed by Ian Emes and in 2020 he designed the multi-sensory installation Next Landscape for C.P. Companyâs FW020. David graduated from Goldsmiths University in 2008 with a BA in Fine Art Textiles. His sculptures have appeared in Vogue, GQ, Dover Street Market and Harrods. While other collaborations include work with Nick Knight, Adidas, Champion, Moncler and Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey.
#DavidCurtisRing #Fashionsetdesigner #charlesjeffreyxWedgwood #wedgwood
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Barbie, the movie, is the much anticipated summer film of 2023! So, we had to join the Barbie conversation with Barbie Guru Frank New who is a New York-based Barbie collector and academic from the queer lens. Frank travels the globe sharing their Barbie research. Frank lives fearlessly out-loud with authentic fabulousness! Frank is the founder of fashion and event production company ManYourStyle. Frank received a Master of Arts in Costume Studies at New York University.
#barbie #queerbarbie #barbiethemovie
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This episode a conversation with Kimberly Jenkins who is a brilliant, boundary breaking woman and world-renowned fashion educator, consultant, and leading voice on fashion and race. Kimberly is the founder and CEO of Artis Solomon, a fashion consultancy firm, and founder of The Fashion and Race Database, a one of a kind learning platform that is supported by subscribing universities and museums globally. Most recently, she co-produced and hosted the podcast, "The Invisible Seam," in partnership with Tommy Hilfiger, highlighting the underrepresented contributions Black culture to fashion.
Kimberly who is based in New Yorkâis a fashion boundary-breaking role modelâa trailblazer who is pushing for change in fashion. For over a decade, Kim has been studying the impact of our clothes and how we express ourselves, through the lenses of politics, race, psychology and anthropology. Kimberly is best known for introducing the course, Fashion and Race, at Parsons, and for working as an education consultant for Gucci in Europe and Asia to support their efforts on design and cultural awareness. Kimâs important work has been recognized by many publications including Vogue, The Business of Fashion, The Financial Times, The Washington Post , The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, The Guardian, DAZED, i-D, W, and NYLON to name a few.
Please join me as I talk with Kim, an OG of Fashion Studies who is reshaping boundaries.
#kimberlyjenkins #fashionandrace #invisibleseam #fashionstudies
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This BONUS episode is a talk with host Zara Korutz on the current state of marketing and the luxury fashion industry in a post-pandemic world using Maison Margiela as a case study thread of debate. This talk isn't a super deep dive analysis but rather is meant to be a conversation starter so please share your thoughts on social media or on our website unbiasedlabel.com.
Host, Zara Korutz launched Unbiased Label podcast after earning her MA (with Distinction) in Fashion Critical Studies from Central Saint Martins in London (2020). She is now a Fashion Studies PhD Researcher at Massey University. Zaraâs viewpoint sits at the intersection of industry and academia with over a decade of experience in the media spaceâincluding at The Washington Postâwith brand expertise in luxury, fashion and arts.
#luxury #luxuryfashion #margiela #maisonmargiela #luxurymarketing
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This episode is a conversation with three Indian fashion voices â Shriya Zamindar, Mukul Bhatia and Jebin Johny â examining the Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2023 runway show that took place on March 31, 2023 at The Gateway of India in Mumbai. This fashion meets cultural celebration came 60 years after Dior first traveled to India to showcase the brandâs spring-summer 1962 couture collection by Creative Director, Marc Bohen.
â Guests â
Shriya Zamindar is the Fashion Features Editor for Vogue India. Shriya has also written for publications including Vogue Business, Grazia India, and 1Granary. Notably, Shriya wrote the words for Vogue Indiaâs March-April issue cover story interviewing catwalk queen Naomi Campbell.
Mukul Bhatia, is an award-winning visual artist from India focused on sustainability, travel and fashion. Mukul has been featured in Forbes, The New York Times, GQ and TEDx, and winner of Cosmopolitan Indiaâs 2020 Blogger Award for âSustainable Fashion Influencer of the Yearâ.
Jebin Johny is a sustainable luxury fashion designer based in Kerala whose work features hand-painting and handloom fabric. Jebin launched his brand Jebsispar in 2015 at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. His designs have been featured in Vogue India, The Indian Express, The Hindu and The Hindu Metro Plus, and worn by Hindi film actresses including Sonam Kapoor, Kalki Koechlin and Vidya Balan.
â Show Reference Links â
The making of Dior Fall 2023 in India: https://youtu.be/bwIVOc-_3go
Dior Fall 2023 Show: https://www.youtube.com/live/BfxdKZvpG6s?feature=share
#christiandior #dior #vogueindia #mariagrazia #diorfall2023 #luxuryfashion
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This episode is a conversation with Finnegan Shepard who is founder of Both& Apparelâa company that closed on one-million seed round and is pioneering non-binary fashion, starting with apparel for trans men. The company is powered by the belief that trans masculine, non-binary, and gender non-conforming people deserve gender joy through fashion.
On March 31, 2023, Both&, launched their first global advertising campaign photographed by non-binary photographer Lydia Garrett of creative agency WongDoody. This campaign launch coincided with Trans Day Visibility and promoted the labels new denim line.
The campaign is called âBoys, Boys, Boysâ perhaps as a play on the phrase âboys will be boys,â which is often used to describe gendered stereotypes of masculine heteronormative behavior, except in this case, instead of depicting cismen, the campaign uses transmen to define masculinity and sex appealâa clear inspiration coming from famed images of the 1990s Calvin Kleinâs underwear campaigns whose attractiveness was charged with classical ideas of traditional masculinity and whiteness. In the Both& Apparel campaign whiteness is replaced by ethnic diversity and the viewers gaze is displacing hypermasculinity by hypertransvisibility. The intention of the campaign is made explicit, itâs all about sex appeal and being desired.
Please join me as I talk with Finnegan via Zoom from his home in New Mexico. We talk about the growth of Both&, their global campaign, and dive into ideals of trans masculinity that no longer belong to cis men.
#transfashion #transmasculinity #fashion #genderjoy #both& #finneganshepard
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This episode kicks off a new season and is a conversation with the legend Dana Thomas who is a world-renowned fashion author, journalist, podcast host, and leading voice on sustainability. Dana has been called âThe Woodward and Bernsteinâ of the fashion industry because of her investigative style of reporting.
Danaâs intelligent reporting style comes from her journalism training at The Washington Post where she wrote for many sections including the Style section with fashion editor Nina Hyde along with former Executive Editor Ben Bradley who would stop by Danaâs desk and ask, âwhatâs the news kiddo?â
Danaâs work is focused on highlighting fashion change makers. She is the European Sustainability Editor for British Vogue, and hosts âThe Green Dream,â a weekly podcast on sustainability, produced by Wondercast Studio. Dana wrote the screenplay for Salvatore: Shoemaker of Dreams, a feature documentary directed by Luca Guadagnino, which premiered at the Venice Film Festival in 2020. And in 2016, the French Minister of Culture named her a Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters.
In 2007, Dana published the New York Times bestseller, "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster". In 2015 she published âGods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Gallianoâ. And most recently, in 2019, Dana published âFashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothesâ.
Please join me in conversation with Dana over zoom from her home in Paris as we share stories of working at The Washington Post, talk about her incredible career and body of work including her podcast the Green Dream as well as her books. And, of course, I get Danaâs thoughts on the state of fashion.
Sign up for Dana's Green Dream Newsletter here: https://www.thegreendream.studio/
THIS SEASON IS DEDICATED TO ANDREA MESSIMER-HENLEY (1972-2022). I MISS AND LOVE YOU, FRIEND!
#fashion #danathomas #fashionjournalism #sustainability #fashionsustainability #BritishVogue #The Washington Post #fashionpodcast
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This episode is a conversation with Dr. Carolyn Mair who is a London based author, educator, speaker, consultant, Charted Psychologist and Fellow of the British Psychological Society.
In 2012, Dr. Mair developed the Psychology Department at London College of Fashion and created the world's first Psychology for Fashion Masters degrees (MA and MSc). In 2018, Dr. Mair published The Psychology of Fashion. The idea of 'fashion psychology' has now become a growing global phenomenon thanks to the original work by Dr. Mair who is constantly in the press all over the world including The Washington Post, Vogue Business, NBC News, WWD, The Observer, ELLE, The Guardian, Harper's Bazaar, and The Atlantic to name a few.
Follow Carolyn on social media, particularly Twitter @Carolyn_UK and Instagram @Psychologyforfashion
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This episode examines the Chanel 2022/23 MĂ©tiers dâArt runway show that took place on December 6, 2022 at the former âPalais de Justiceâ Hall in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa. Beyond cultural and artistic inspiration, I was curious to unpack this show, but given of my own limited Western perspective, I thought it most appropriate to seek answers from a local Senegalese who attended the show which led me to past Unbiased Label podcast guest Milcos Badji who is a Senegalese fashion designer from Dakar. The design ethos of Milcos is deeply connected to heritage with research at the center of his artistic process. Nio Far by Milcos is unisex and handmade brand, and orders can be placed on-line at https://www.niofarbymilcos.com.
Please join me as I talk with Milcos via zoom from his home in Senegal about his experience of attending the Chanel fashion show in Dakar. We discuss his thoughts and perspective on the show from the Senegalese lens including location, guests, music and fashion. I hope you find this conversation as enlightening as I did in terms of culture, history and perspective.
#Chanel #Dakar #Senegal #Fashion
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This episode is a conversation with Nigerian Fashion Journalist Elvis Kachi. Kachi has been published in many magazines and news outlets including Vanity Teen, BBC, Guardian, BusinessDay Nigeria, Essence, and Quartz to name a few.
His reporting focuses on conversations with fashion designers whose work is changing the stereotypical ideologies of African fashion and breaking gendered norms. Most recently, Kachi's work highlighted how transgender Nigerians could be jailed for cross-dressing if a proposed bill becomes law. The amendment â currently in parliament â would make it illegal for a person to wear clothes that do not match their gender assigned at birth.
This episode is published to coincide with African Fashion Week Season with Legos Fashion Week taking place on October 26-29, 2022. Please join me as talk with Elvis from his home in Lagos, Nigeria. We talk about his journey to becoming a fashion journalist, African fashion designers, and the restrictive Nigerian culture on gender and sexuality. If you love fashion journalism from the African perspective, then this conversation is for you.
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Gaurav Monga is a writer and teacher originally from New Delhi. He is the author of Tears for Rahul Dutta (Philistine Press, 2012), Family Matters (Eibonvale Press, 2019), Ruins (Desirepath Publishers, 2019), Costumes of the Living (Snuggly Books, 2020), My Father, The Watchmaker (Hawakal Publishers, 2020) and The English Teacher (Raphus Press, 2021). Gaurav's work has appeared in numerous literary magazines, including B O D Y, Fanzine, Juked, Tammy Journal, Spurl Editions, Queen Mob's Teahouse, Birkensnake amongst others.
Gaurav teaches English, German, literature, epistemology and creative writing, and has taught at schools and universities in India, Nepal, Switzerland, Dubai and the Czech Republic. Gaurav taught himself German to read the works of Franz Kafka, and is currently translating selected works of Robert Walser, Peter Bichsel and Paul Leppin from German to English. He is a member of an international art and lifestyle movement called Neo-Decadence.
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This episode is a conversation with Beau McCall aka âThe Button Man" who is a New York-based cultural tastemaker & visual artist that creates wearable and art by applying clothing buttons onto up-cycled fabrics, materials, and objects generating discussion on topics related to pop culture and social justice.
McCall has been featured in the NY Times, Associated Press, NPR, and L.A. Times. His visual and wearable art has been included in many exhibitions and is held in the permanent collection of public institutions and by private individuals including the Museum of Arts and Design (New York), Philadelphia Museum of Art (Philadelphia), Victoria and Albert Museum (London), The Museum at FIT (New York), to name a few.
In 2021, McCall released his debut artistsâ book titled, REWIND: MEMORIES ON REPEAT, commissioned and published by SHINE Portrait Studioâthat honors the legacy of ten of McCallâs deceased friends through collages composed of archival photos and images from his button artwork. The collages capture the late 1970s to the mid-1980s, from Philadelphia to New York, during the LGBTQ+ rights movement, the height of disco music and the AIDS crisis. In 2024, McCall will debut his first-ever retrospective titled, Beau McCall: Buttons On! at Fuller Craft Museum.
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This episode is a conversation with John Matheson who is a London based Alexander McQueen enthusiast, archivist and owner of the Instagram account, @McQueen_Vault.
John has contributed to many fashion exhibitions, discussions and publications including Show Studio. Over the past two years, John has been working as a consultant on Alexander McQueen exhibitions with museums LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and NGV (National Gallery Victoria, Melbourne).
Please join me as I talk with John about his passion for McQueen, the history of his archiving and his contextual viewpoints on fashion. If you love Alexander McQueen, then this conversation is for you. I do hope you enjoy!
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This episode is a conversation with Colleen Hill, Fashion Author and Curator at The Museum at FIT. Colleen holds an MA in Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice from FIT and is currently a PhD candidate at London College of Fashion. Her most recent exhibition Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s (2021) is on exhibit until April 17, 2022.
Colleen has authored or coauthored many books on fashion and contributed to numerous other publications including her latest book Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s (2021) which examines 'Nineties fashion--from grunge, to Clueless's AlaĂŻa, to Margiela's new couture--is an essential reference point for contemporary style. This book, created in tandem with an exhibition at The Museum at FIT, documents the changing culture, attitudes, and creatives that ushered in our visual age' (Rizzoli).
In this talk, Colleen and I discuss her exhibition and book Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s, the art of curating, and workings of the Museum at FIT.
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This episode is an unedited talk that I recorded over the summer with my friend and life guru Mukul Bhatia. It's a raw and vulnerable conversation with my puppy Bijou barking in the background. I talk with Mukul from Bali about all the important topics that intersect with living in a Post-pandemic world including sustainability, fashion, consumerism, society, trauma, relationship, and personal growth.
Mukul Bhatia who is an award-winning visual artist from India based in Bali focused on sustainability, travel and fashion. Mukul has been featured in Forbes, The New York Times, GQ and TEDx, and winner of Cosmopolitan Indiaâs 2020 Blogger Award for âSustainable Fashion Influencer of the Yearâ.
This episode is dedicated to the legacy of Virgil Abloh (1980-2021) who sadly passed away this week at the young age of 41. đ Virgil was a prolific zeitgeist cultural communicator and forever left his footprint on the world. His visionary work intersected many spaces including art, media, fashion, design and music. He didn't prescribe to bias, boxes, labels or limits; but lived and created with freedom of thought that birthed a new cultural code rooted in acceptance, kindness and inclusivity.
Virgil left a legacy built by a superhuman work ethic filled with risk, failure, success, collaboration, accessibility, conviction, criticism, friendship, love, passion, vision and clarity. He opened doors and paved the way for future generations because he believed that his voice as a black man needed to be heard.
I had the privilege to hear Virgil speak during the 2018 Vogue Paris Fashion Festival and these are my notes from his talk:
Youthful outlook of Paris.
Friendship.
Organic.
Authentic.
Transparent.
Design for a need to exist.
Intrigue.
Controversial.
Collaboration.
Transparent-shows who you are--Is harder and takes more time.
Transparency allows for people to make a connection. Creates a dialogue. Meeting someone half way.
Understand the ecosystem we live in.
Blurred lines.
Luxury is old word-new word is coveted!
Emotional connection is the NEW luxury!!!
Youthful approach with respect to Heritage.
Adapt to environment and not industry.
Image and text based culture.
People see when things are fake.
Biggest success is when organic happens!!
Advertising is about relevance and importance.
How do you create Desire?
Fulfil dreams.
Cutting corners cuts artistic vision.
Branding and iconography signifies history and importance.
Bestow meaning.
Art & fashion collaboration.
CORE-has beating heart.
Experience over transaction.
Untraditional ideas may be relevant and update the industry.
What is exciting and relevant?
Thank you for dedicating your life to being a cultural change maker. The world desperately needed you, Virgil. Rest in peace. -
This bonus episode is a critical fashion talk by host Zara Korutz focused on the investigation of the babushka headscarf style trend by examining its cultural implications both historically and in contemporary context.
Additionally, Jacqueline Pham from the Asian Fashion Journal investigates the lack of representation of Asian plus-size models.
If you geek out over fashion and culture, then this talk is for you⊠Please engage with your thoughts afterwards on social media or with a personal voice note.
References available upon request.
Cover Photo: Gucci X Dapper Dan. Courtesy: https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/gucci-dapper-dan-collection
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This episode is a conversation with Carl Ray, a Washington, D.C. based celebrity make-up artist, who has been in the beauty industry for over 20 years. Carl's prolific work is evidenced in his position as official make-up artist for former First Lady Michelle Obama since 2009. Carl has also worked with a long roster of notable clientele including: Anna Wintour, Meryl Streep, Natalie Portman, Claire Danes, Diane Von Furstenberg, Debra Messing, Stella McCartney, Kerri Washington, Gabriel Union, Adrianna Lima, Allison Janey, Julia Child, Melinda Gates, Pricilla Chan Zuckerberg, Anna Nicole Smith, Nancy Pelosi, Queen Rana, Queen Noor, Sir Paul McCartney, Leonardo DiCaprio, Morgan Freeman, Lin - Manuel Miranda, Hugh Jackman, former President Bill Clinton, and former President Barack Obama.
The artistic style of the 'Carl Ray Way' is rooted in enhancing a woman’s natural beauty. He enjoys getting to know each individual woman so he can bring out her own personality. Carl prides himself on complimenting individual beauty, and his range of techniques allows him to deliver a natural glam, polished, clean, fresh, and beautiful look.
Carl has been voted “top make-up artist” by Washingtonian magazine since the inception of his career in Washington, DC in 1999 and is the go-to make-up artist for weddings. His work has appeared in the bridal magazine covers & pages of: Brides, Martha Stewart, Vogue, The Knot, Washingtonian Bride and Groom, Inside Weddings, Town and Country Weddings, Modern Luxury Brides, Engaged, Bridal Guide, Wedding Style, and Premiere Bride. Carl's work has appeared on and in the magazine covers & pages of Vogue, Glamour, Elle, In Style, Cosmopolitan, Allure, Ebony, Essence, Harper’s Bazaar, More, Ladies' Home Journal, Variety, Seventeen, Red Book, People and Time. - Näytä enemmän
