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Many centuries ago, a mysterious woman arrived in the small community of Nes in Borgarfjörður. No one knew where she had come from, but her beauty and grace quickly won the respect of the locals. She settled in Nes and gradually took control of the entire estate, becoming its mistress. Her name was Snotra, and though she was admired, she carried an air of secrecy.
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This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024.
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The Mysterious Woman Challenges Her Steward
One day, Snotra appointed a steward to manage the estate and presented him with a challenge. She told him she would be leaving for the Christmas holiday, but when she returned, he must correctly guess where she had been. If he failed, he would forfeit his life. However, if he succeeded, she promised to reward him richly.As Christmas approached, Snotra made preparations to leave. On Christmas Eve, she departed without revealing her destination. When she returned after the holiday, she asked the steward if he could say where she had been. He admitted he could not. Shortly after, the steward vanished, never to be seen again.This same fate befell two more stewards, each unable to solve the mystery of Snotra’s Christmas journeys. Finally, a fourth steward was appointed. Like the others, Snotra told him he must uncover her secret or face dire consequences. The steward, however, resolved to succeed where the others had failed.
Christmas with a Twist
As Christmas Eve arrived, the workers retired for the night, but the steward stayed awake. Hidden in the shadows, he watched as Snotra slipped out of the house carrying a bundle. He followed her silently across the fields to the rocky shore, where she sat and unwrapped her parcel.Inside were delicate veils. Snotra draped one veil over her head and threw another into the sea. As she leapt into the water, the steward boldly grabbed a veil and followed her. Suddenly, they were traveling through a swirling mist until they emerged in a land unlike any he had ever seen. The air was filled with the scent of herbs and fruit, and the landscape was lush with orchards.In the distance, the steward saw a magnificent city surrounded by high walls. Snotra, now wearing her veil, entered the city gates to the sound of music and a warm welcome. She gestured for the steward to stay in a small building near two tall structures, from which he could observe what happened inside the grand hall.Curious, the steward peered through a window and saw an incredible celebration. The hall was filled with people in splendid clothing, dancing and feasting. At the center of the festivities sat a noble man on a throne, and beside him was Snotra, adorned in regal attire.
One Event Changes Everything
Night after night, the steward watched the same scene: music, dancing, and Snotra by the man’s side. On the last evening, he noticed a disturbance. Two men approached the nobleman, reporting that a cow had given birth to twin calves, but one was dead. The two women tasked with caring for the cow blamed each other for the calf's death. The nobleman grew angry at the dispute, and the steward could see the tension in the hall.When Christmas ended, Snotra prepared to leave. A grand procession escorted her from the city, with the nobleman leading her by the hand. The steward followed her as she retraced her path through the mist, arriving back at the same rocky shore. She removed her veil and folded it carefully, and the steward did the same before throwing his veil to her.Snotra said nothing and returned to the house. The steward followed her and rested until morning. When the workers rose for their daily tasks, Snotra approached him and asked if he could say where she had been. The steward replied, “I cannot say exactly, but I saw two women arguing over the death of a calf, -
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This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland.
A Young Girl and Her Prankster Neighbor
In a small Icelandic village, there was a young boy who loved to play tricks and frighten a girl who lived nearby. He’d pop up unexpectedly, trying to make her jump. But over time, she became so used to his tricks that nothing he did could scare her anymore. Anything strange she encountered, she dismissed as one of his pranks.One day, the girl was sent to the churchyard by her mother to fetch linen hung there to dry. As she worked, she noticed a figure sitting on a tombstone, dressed in all white. Instantly, she thought it was the boy up to his usual tricks, so she marched up, grabbed the figure’s white cap, and declared she wouldn’t be scared this time. With a smug grin, she returned home with the cap in her basket.
The Realization of a Grave Mistake
But when she arrived home, the boy was already at the house, greeting her with a puzzled look. Confused and unnerved, she sorted through the linen and found the cap she had taken from the figure. It was damp with mold and smelled of earth. Realizing the figure hadn’t been the boy, the family understood the girl had encountered a ghost. Fear swept through the village.The next day, the ghost reappeared on the same tombstone, this time without its white cap. No one dared approach it, fearing the consequences. Desperate, the villagers called for an old man from a neighboring village known for his wisdom. He advised that the cap had to be returned to the ghost, in complete silence, by the girl who had taken it.
Returning the Cap & The Consequences
So the entire village gathered in the churchyard as the girl nervously approached the ghost, cap in hand. She placed it back on its head and asked if it was satisfied. The ghost looked up, a cold gaze in its eyes, and replied, “Yes, but are *you* now satisfied?” It then raised a hand, struck her, and she fell dead on the spot. Without another word, the ghost sank into the grave, disappearing forever.
Random Fact of the Episode
While you might think that this story might make Icelander’s afraid of going to graveyards because they could encounter a ghost, this doesn’t seem to be the case. In fact, in the days leading up to Christmas and especially on December 24th, Icelanders can be seen in graveyards decorating the graves of their loved ones with candles and decorative lights.If a group of them go, they tell fond stories of the loved one that they are there to honor. I find it sweet and interesting because you can see the graveyards lit up from a distance.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Kirkjugarður – graveyardLiterally translates to church garden.Kirkja – churchGarður – garden
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
Experiencing *Into the Glacier* in Iceland was like stepping into a different world—a frozen wonderland hidden deep within Langjökull, Iceland’s second-largest glacier. It was truly mesmerizing to see the glacier from the inside, which made me feel like I was in the heart of an enormous frozen giant.
Is it Safe to Visit "Into the Glacier" Anytime of Year?
When it comes to those wondering about safety, the *Into the Glacier* experience is indeed safe. The ice tunnels were engineered with extreme care, taking into account both glacial shifts and temperature stability.The tour operators maintain the tunnels regularly, and visitors are provided with the necessary equipment, like crampons, to safely walk on ice. Additionally, experienced guides accompany each group, ensuring that everyone is informed about safety measures while they explore this icy wonderland.
The Adventurous Ride on the Glacier & Into the Tunnel
The journey to reach this icy marvel began with an exciting ride in a massive truck, custom-built for navigating the rugged, icy terrain. This monster vehicle rumbled up the glacier for nearly an hour and a half, offering glimpses of the snow-covered landscape as we climbed higher. When we arrived, the true adventure began as we stepped into a small tent that led directly into the glacier’s inner sanctum.Once inside, we were handed crampons, which are ice chains for your shoes, to safely walk on the icy surface. The temperature in the tunnels is a steady 32°F (0°C), so dressing warmly is essential. Moving through the tunnels, I was in awe of the surreal, radiant blue ice.Being surrounded by walls of ice, created by a unique mix of nature and engineering, felt like discovering a secret known only to scientists and glaciologists—until now. The massive tunnel system, stretching through Langjökull, is an extraordinary feat that brings people right into the core of a glacier, something I had only dreamed of seeing.There are several ice chambers that we visit, like the Chapel. People have actually gotten married in this chapel, which is pretty cool. I enjoyed exploring this icy wonderland and I think it is a once in a lifetime opportunity to be this deep inside of a glacier and it is stable. I learned so many cool things during this experience, including the facts below.
Experience "Into the Glacier" in Iceland at a Discount
I went on the "Into the Glacier" adventure with Arctic Adventures. If you use my code iceland10 with them for this trip and other experiences, you can save 10% on the cost of the tour.
Here are seven unique facts about the "Into the Glacier" experience:
The Largest Ice Tunnel in the World: This man-made marvel is currently the largest ice tunnel globally, carved specifically to allow people to journey into the depths of a glacier.Situated on Iceland’s Second-Largest Glacier: The ice tunnel sits within Langjökull, covering about 950 square kilometers and mostly standing over 1,200 meters above sea level. 500 meters long (1600 feet), 3 meters tall (9.8 feet tall), and 3.5 meters wide (11.5 feet wide)Legend of the Troll Þórir: Near the glacier, Þórisjökull is a smaller glacier linked to a local legend about a troll named Þórir, who supposedly lived in a green valley between Langjökull and the smaller glacier.A 2010 Vision Brought to Life: The ice tunnel was imagined in 2010 by Baldvin Einarsson and Hallgrímur Örn Arngrímsson, who wanted to give people access not just to the glacier’s surface, but also to its icy core.Built with Scientific and Engineering Precision: The creation of the tunnel involved renowned geophysicist Ari Trausti Guðmundsson and a team of engineers who rigorously planned, modeled, and constructed the tunnels to withstand the glacier's movements.A Glimpse into "Blue Ice": Inside the glacier, you can witness “blue ice,” which is buried deep within and has been compressed over centuries, -
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland
The Troll Woman & Bjarni
Once upon a time, a farmer named Bjarni lived in Skaftafell. He was known for his skilled craftsmanship and resourcefulness. High in a cave above the Skaftafell Woods, there lived a troll-woman who had become a loyal friend to Bjarni. She watched over his sheep in the mountains and guarded his driftwood along the shore.One harsh winter, the troll-woman visited Bjarni with troubling news: a ship had wrecked on the coast, leaving only one survivor. But this wasn’t any ordinary man—it was a wild, dangerous brute, and she feared he would bring ruin to all of southern Iceland if left unchecked. Without hesitation, she took up an axe and accompanied Bjarni down to the shore, where she bravely fought the savage and defeated him.Generations passed, but the troll-woman stayed connected to Bjarni’s family, protecting them as she had him. To this day, people say her cave still stands above Skaftafell, with a skylight in its roof and a bed carved right into the stone—a bed so large it could only have belonged to a troll. And they say Bjarni, ever thoughtful, crafted the cave’s door and its sturdy fittings to make it a cozy home for his unusual friend.
The Troll Woman and Einar
Years later, another man named Einar lived in Skaftafell. He, too, knew of a troll-woman. Once, while traveling through thick fog, he suspected the mist was no natural haze. Feeling uneasy, Einar took his axe and threw it far. Instantly, the fog lifted, and he was able to make his way home. But just as he arrived, one of his horses collapsed, and Einar found his axe lying on his doorstep—this time covered in blood.The following year, Einar was setting off to cross the Skeidará river when he met a towering woman. She asked if she could borrow one of his horses to cross the water. At first, he hesitated, remembering how one of his horses had been strained the year before. But then, the woman explained it had been because of a prank he’d pulled. She showed him a scar where his axe had struck her, revealing that she was the one who had lifted the fog.Einar believed her, and they crossed the river safely. During this crossing, the troll woman teased Einar a bit, which he did not take well. To get revenge, he went home and made a cooper gun. After tracking her down, the troll woman apologized for teasing him and they were on good terms again.After that she vowed to do what he wished and his only ask of her was to not let anyone steal his driftwood. And so, the legend of the troll-woman and her friendship with the people of Skaftafell endures to this day, her protective spirit woven into the landscape and the lore of Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
Skaftafell is a stunning nature reserve inside of Vatnajökull National Park. In that area, you can hike to the Svartifoss waterfall or go on a glacier hike/ice climbing adventure. There are many hiking paths in this area and I highly recommend checking it out. During winter, there are ice cave tours avaiable on the glaciers too. If you plan to take a glacier hike here, feel free to use my code Iceland10 with Arctic Adventures to save 10%.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
goðsögn - legend
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
Eyþór is an Icelandic antiquarian with an impressive rare book collection. For many years, he has been collecting and restoring rare books, some of which are important original Icelandic manuscripts. We sat down to chat about his collection and so much more.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkKR4qoW67A
Questions I Asked Eyþór During the Interview?
When did your fascination with antique book collecting and restoration start?How many books are in your collection?What is your process of restoration? How long does it take to restore a book?Do you have any strange books in your collection? What is the oldest book that you have?You’ve had many visitors to see your collection. Is there anyone who visited your collection that surprised you?Do you ever display your collections to the public?Where can people find you online if they want to follow along with what you are doing?What’s your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland.
Sleipnir's Hoofprint: The Mythic Origins of Ásbyrgi
According to Icelandic legend, the stunning horseshoe-shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi was formed by the mighty hoofprint of Sleipnir, Odin’s legendary eight-legged steed. As the Norse god rode across the sky on his powerful horse, Sleipnir took an extraordinary leap, imprinting his hoof on Earth and leaving behind the shape of Ásbyrgi Canyon. This tale weaves Ásbyrgi into the fabric of Norse mythology, offering a mystical origin story that resonates deeply with Iceland's cultural heritage.
Álfakirkja: The Elfin Church
Beyond natural explanations, folklore suggests that Ásbyrgi served as a sacred gathering site for Iceland’s hidden folk, or Huldufólk. Often referred to as "Álfakirkja" or the Elfin Church, the canyon is said to be a place where elves and other mystical beings held their celebrations and gatherings. This enchanting narrative adds a supernatural charm to Ásbyrgi, further heightening its allure as a place where nature and folklore intertwine.
Random Fact of the Episode
The initial carving (8-10 Million Years Ago) of Ásbyrgi began eight to ten million years ago, during a time of dramatic glacial floods from the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river. Likely triggered by a volcanic eruption beneath Iceland’s massive Vatnajökull glacier, these catastrophic floods began carving the canyon shortly after the last Ice Age, setting the stage for its iconic horseshoe shape. About 3000 years ago, further glacial floods from Jökulsá á Fjöllum once again surged through the canyon, deepening and refining its form. This powerful combination of volcanic and glacial forces crafted Ásbyrgi’s unique shape, etching a story of geological transformation that spans millions of years.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Ásbyrgi - the Shelter of the Gods
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland.
Who is Búkolla the Magic Icelandic Cow?
Once upon a time, there was an old man and his wife who lived in a small cottage with their son. They weren’t particularly fond of him, but they had little else in their life besides a single cow, Búkolla, who was their most prized possession.One day, Búkolla gave birth to a calf, and after helping with the birth, the old woman stepped away for a moment. When she returned, Búkolla was gone! The couple searched high and low but couldn’t find her anywhere. Furious, they ordered their son to find the cow and told him not to come back without her.
Trying to find Búkolla
Off he went, into the unknown, armed with only some food and new shoes. As he walked, he grew tired and sat down to eat. “Bellow now, my Búkolla, if you’re out there,” he called out. Far in the distance, he heard a faint bellow.Encouraged, the boy walked further. After some time, he stopped again, calling, “Bellow now, my Búkolla, if you’re alive.” The bellow was louder, closer.Finally, he climbed to the top of some tall rocks, sat down once more, and called out, “Bellow now, my Búkolla!” This time, he heard her right beneath him. Climbing down, he found a cave where Búkolla was chained. He freed her and began the journey home.
Escaping Treacherous Trolls
But before long, he noticed something terrifying—a giant troll and a smaller one chasing after him!The boy panicked, realizing the troll’s long strides would soon catch up. “What do we do, Búkolla?” he asked.“Pull a hair from my tail and drop it on the ground,” Búkolla replied. He did as she said, and Búkolla spoke to the hair:“Become a river so wide that only a bird can cross it.”Immediately, a massive river appeared between them and the trolls. The larger troll, undeterred, ordered the smaller one, “Go fetch my father’s giant bull!”The smaller troll rushed off and returned with a huge bull, which drank up the entire river in a single gulp.The boy’s heart raced as the trolls closed in. “What now, Búkolla?”“Take another hair and drop it,” she said. Once he did, she proclaimed, “Become a flame so high that even a bird cannot fly over it!”A wall of fire erupted before them. But the trolls were persistent. The larger troll commanded, “Fetch my father’s bull again!” The smaller troll fetched the bull, which spat all the water it had drunk from the river onto the flames, extinguishing them.Once again, the boy asked, “What do we do, Búkolla?”“Take one more hair and drop it,” Búkolla instructed. “Now, become a mountain so tall that nothing but a bird can cross it.”
Búkolla Returns Home
Before their eyes, a towering mountain shot up. The giant troll, furious but determined, sent the smaller troll to fetch her father’s bore-iron. With the iron, the troll drilled through the mountain.But she was so eager to squeeze through the narrow hole she had made that she got stuck. And there she remains, turned to stone, unable to pursue them any further.The boy finally returned home with Búkolla, and for the first time, his parents were genuinely happy to see him. Their cow was safe, and all was well again.
Random Fact of the Episode
There are many children’s books about Búkolla in Iceland. During Jónsmessa or Midsummer Night, cows gain the ability to speak among other strange things that happen that night. It is interesting how cows having the abiliy to talk comes up in Icelandic folklore.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Kýr - cow
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst f... -
This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland.
How Dimmuborgir was Said to be formed?
Legend has it that Dimmuborgir, with its eerie rock formations and twisting lava fields, is more than just a natural wonder. Some say it's a hidden gateway to a mysterious, parallel world – a realm where Iceland's most elusive creatures reside.Elves, trolls, and other mythical beings are said to call this shadowy place home, slipping in and out of our world through secret passages among the towering rocks.In other tales, especially in Nordic Christian lore, Dimmuborgir takes on an even darker role. It's believed to be the very spot where Satan crashed to Earth after being cast out of Heaven. From there, he is said to have forged the catacombs of Hell, using the strange landscape as his foundation.For those who visit Dimmuborgir today, the air still hums with the legends of this supernatural past, making it feel as if you're standing on the edge of another world.
Random Fact of the Episode
It is estimated that Dimmuborgir was created about 2,300 years ago after a huge volcanic eruption. It‘s a beautiful and sort of eery place. In North Iceland and can be part of your Diamond Circle route.
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Icelandic Word of the Episode
Dimmuborgir translates to "dark castles" or "dark cities.
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland.
How an Icelandic Fisherman Caught a Merman
Many years ago, there was a farmer living in Vogar, famous for being the best fisherman around. No one could match his skill, and his farm flourished because of it. One day, while he was out on the water, something strange happened. He cast his line into the sea like usual, but when he tried to reel it in, it felt impossibly heavy, as if he had snagged a massive catch.To his surprise, when he finally pulled it up, it wasn’t just a fish—he’d caught a strange creature with the body of a man!Startled, the fisherman blurted out, “What in the world are you?”The creature responded calmly, “I am a merman from the deep sea.”Curious, the farmer asked, “What were you doing when my hook got you?”The merman replied, “I was adjusting the chimney cowl on my mother’s house to make it face the wind. Now, let me go!”But the farmer wasn’t ready to release him just yet. “Not so fast,” he said. “You’ll have to serve me for a bit first.”Without further discussion, the fisherman dragged the merman into his boat and rowed back to shore.
The Merman Notices Some Interesting Things About the Fisherman
When they reached land, the fisherman’s loyal dog ran up to greet him, barking happily and wagging its tail. But in a foul mood, the farmer struck the dog for being too excited. At this, the merman chuckled softly but didn’t explain why.As the fisherman headed toward his house, pulling the merman behind him, he stumbled over a small hill. Annoyed, he cursed at it. The merman laughed again, louder this time.Finally, when they arrived at the house, the fisherman’s wife rushed out to greet him, wrapping her arms around him affectionately. Pleased with her welcome, he smiled—only to hear the merman laugh a third time.The farmer, now curious, asked, “You’ve laughed three times. Why?”“I’ll only tell you,” said the merman, “if you promise to take me back to the sea and let me go.”The fisherman agreed, eager to hear the reasons.The merman began, “I laughed the first time when you hit your dog, who was only showing you honest joy. The second time, I laughed because you cursed the hill—yet beneath it lies a fortune in gold. The third time, I laughed because your wife’s embrace, though it pleased you, was hollow. She is unfaithful to you.”Shocked, the farmer said, “I’ll believe you if I find gold in that hill. The rest, we’ll see.”
The Fisherman is Shocked at What He Found
He immediately went to the hill and dug it up. Sure enough, he found a treasure of golden coins buried there, just as the merman had said.Keeping his word, the farmer took the merman back to the sea. Before diving back into the depths, the merman said, “You’ve kept your promise, so I will reward you. Soon, you will come across something valuable. Be ready to claim it.”Not long after, seven sea-grey cows appeared on the beach near the farmer’s land. They were wild and untamable, but the farmer noticed something unusual—they each had a small bladder attached to their noses. Remembering the merman’s words, the farmer chased after them, managing to burst the bladder on one of the cows. Immediately, the cow became calm, allowing the farmer to lead her home. The rest of the cows fled back into the sea.That one grey cow turned out to be an incredible gift, giving more milk than any other cow in the land. She became the ancestor of a prized breed of grey cows, famous throughout Iceland.The farmer grew rich and lived a prosperous life, but he never caught another merman. And as for his wife, well, nothing more was said about her after that, so we can only guess how that part of the story ended.
Random Fact of the Episode
Stories of Mermen often depict them as being very ugly with hands and feet. -
This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland.
How Icelandic Necropants are Created
Imagine making a pact with your best friend—if one of you dies, the other gets to use the body for something truly bizarre: making a pair of magical pants. These aren’t just any pants though. They’re called Necropants, and they're made from human skin, specifically from the waist down.So, when one friend dies, the surviving one digs up the body, carefully peels off the skin from the legs (without making any holes, of course), and puts them on right away. Sounds grim, right? But here’s the catch—the pants don't just sit on you like a creepy costume. They actually fuse to your body, becoming a part of you. You can wear them as long as you like, but eventually, you’ll have to pass them on to someone else if you want to keep the magic going.But wait, what magic, you ask? Just wearing the pants isn’t enough to unlock the wealth. For that, you need to perform a twisted ritual. First, you must steal a coin from a desperately poor widow, and the timing is key—it has to be done during a church service, right between specific readings on Christmas, Easter, or Whit Sunday.You then place this stolen coin into the “pocket” of the Necropants. And here's where things get even stranger: that “pocket” is more like the, ahem, scrotum area of the pants. Once the coin is in, the pants magically start producing more coins. Free money, but with a dark price.
Why Some People Feel Necropants are Worth it
But these aren’t your average enchanted pants. If you remove the original stolen coin, the magic stops working. And then there's the even darker part—when you're ready to pass the pants to someone else, you can't just hand them over. There’s a strict process. You have to remove the pants one leg at a time. First, the right leg comes off, and the new wearer has to immediately put on that same leg. Once they’re in, there's no turning back. Even if they try to stop, they’re cursed to wear the full pants, like it or not.If you fail to pass them on properly, your soul could be in danger, and your body, once you’re dead, will be consumed by vermin. Some say theseNecropants are a gift from the devil himself, a symbol of the pact made with dark forces in exchange for earthly riches. But no matter how much wealth you gather, wearing them comes with a heavy cost.
Random Fact of the Episode
A replica of what these pants are supposed to look like are in the Icelandic Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft in Hólmavík in the Westfjords region of the country.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Nábrók - necropants
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024.
How is a Tilberi Creature in Iceland formed?
In the heart of Icelandic folklore, there exists a strange and eerie creature known as the *tilberi* in the north and the *snakkur* in the south and west.This mystical being is said to be the creation of witches, conjured specifically to steal milk from the farms of others. Only women have the knowledge and ability to summon and control this creature, using it to enrich their own dairy supplies.Though the origins of the tilberi stretch back into the misty past, tales of it weren't written down until the 17th century. Yet, one account from that time recalls a witch being punished in the year 1500 for possessing one. The ritual to create a tilberi is both chilling and secretive. At dawn on Whitsunday, a woman must steal a rib from a freshly buried body. She then wraps this rib in grey wool—wool that must also be stolen, plucked from a widow’s sheep just after it has been sheared. For the next three Sundays, at the communion table, she spits sanctified wine onto the bundle, slowly bringing it to life with each ritual. Finally, to complete the creature’s birth, she lets it suckle from the inside of her thigh, leaving a wart-like mark as a permanent reminder of the dark deed.
Why is a Tilberi is Dangerous?
Once created, the tilberi becomes an insatiable thief. The witch can send it out to steal milk from the cows and ewes of neighboring farms. The creature, able to stretch itself, leaps onto the back of its target, wrapping itself around the animal to suck from one or even two teats at once. When it returns to its mistress, it perches at her dairy window and cries out, "Full belly, Mummy!" or "Churn lid off, Mummy!" before vomiting the stolen milk into her butter churn. However, milk stolen by a tilberi bears a curse of its own. When churned, the butter forms curdled clumps or even melts into foam if a cross is made over it or a magical symbol, called the smjörhnútur (butterknot), is drawn into the mixture.
How Icelander’s Protected Their Livestock from a Tilberi
Farmers, plagued by udder infections and other signs of a tilberi’s presence, would protect their animals by making the sign of the cross beneath the cow’s udder or laying a Psalter on its spine. Though the tilberi was lightning-fast, if caught or pursued, it would flee back to its witch, hiding beneath her skirts. But there was a way to stop the creature and its master. A brave soul could sew shut the petticoat of the witch, trapping both her and her creation. Then, they would meet a grim fate, either burned or drowned together, ending the dark magic for good. This legend serves as a chilling reminder of the power of superstition and the mysterious bond between the witches of old and their strange creations.
Random Fact of the Episode
If the woman who created the creature has a child of her own, a nightmare scenario unfolds. Should the tilberi, always hungry for milk, find its way to her breast, the consequences are dire—it may suck her dry, leading to her death. Ridding oneself of this creature, however, comes with its own perilous ritual. To banish a *tilberi*, the woman must send it on an impossible task. She orders the creature to climb the mountain and gather every lamb’s dropping from the vast common pastures. In some versions of the tale, the tilberi is told to sort them into three piles, or collect all the droppings from three separate fields. But the number three is the tilberi’s undoing. Being an evil creature, it cannot endure the power of this sacred number. As it toils endlessly, trying to complete the task, it either works itself to death or succumbs to the mystical force of three. In the end, only the human bone that gave it life remains, lying abandoned in the pasture, marking the creature’s demise and freeing its maker from a dark an... -
Learn about cycling culture, different routes, races, and more from Búi Aðalsteinsson, an Icelandic cycling enthusiast and podcast host.
About Búi Aðalsteinsson
Búi Aðalsteinsson is a designer and has run the design studio Grallaragerðin since 2016, alongside various other jobs, he currently works at the Department of Service and Innovation at the City of Reykjavík.Búi’s work emphasizes community and environmental aspects. His experience includes developing creative projects within Icelandic prisons, mapping the arrival of refugee children to Iceland, improving connections with plants, enhancing the utilization of by-products from vegetable farming in Iceland, and incorporating insects into food products. Búi was nominated for the Icelandic Design Awards in 2019, and in 2016, he won the Grapevine Design Award for Project of the Year, which focused on using insects in food production.Recently, Búi has developed a remarkably strong interest in cycling and has started a podcast, Hjólavarpið, covering everything related to bicycles, both in terms of transportation and competitive cycling.
Búi’s Podcast About Cycling
Hjólavarpið is the name of the cycling podcast that Búi hosts.Apple Podcasts Spotify
Questions I asked Búi Aðalsteinsson During the Interview
What sparked your interest in cycling?Can you share a little about cycling culture in Iceland and why it has taken off as a trend?What to know if a person wants to bring their bike to Iceland?Where can someone rent a bike in Reykjavík?Are there any routes in the city that you enjoy cycling?What are some competitive races in Iceland?What have you learned about cycling in Iceland that surprised you?What are your favorite cycling routes in the city and the countryside?What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?
Links that Búi talked about during the interview
Public Transport IcelandCycling IcelandReiðhjólabændur on Facebook
Where to follow Búi and Hjólavarpið
BúiInstagramHjólavarpiðInstagramFacebook
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Why Trolls Tried to Make the Westfjords of Iceland an Island
Centuries ago, in the wild and rugged land of Iceland, three mischievous trolls hatched a plan to reshape the landscape forever. Their goal? To sever the Westfjords from the rest of the island by digging a massive channel between Húnaflói Bay and Breiðafjörður Bay.These trolls loved a good challenge, so they added a competitive twist: as they dug, they would turn the earth they dug into islands.Deep in their task, the trolls were so focused on their wicked work that they failed to notice the sky brightening—the worst mistake a troll could make, for sunlight spells doom to such creatures
The Trolls Try to Escape the Death
In the west, where two trolls toiled tirelessly, hundreds of small islands began to speckle the shallow waters of Breiðafjörður. But in the east, where one lone troll struggled with the deeper, harsher waters of Húnaflói, only a few meager mounds rose from the sea.As the first light of dawn began to creep across the horizon, panic set in. The two trolls in the west abandoned their work and sprinted northeast, hoping to escape the deadly sunlight. But they were too late. The rays of the morning sun caught them in Kollafjörður, instantly turning them into stone, where they stand to this day.Their frenzied digging left behind the Gilsfjörður and Bitrufjörður fjords—mere hours more and they might have succeeded in turning the Westfjords into an island.Meanwhile, the third troll in the east, furious at her lack of progress, slammed her shovel into the ground in frustration. With a crack, a piece of earth broke free, forming what we now know as Grimsey Island. But before she could celebrate, the rising sun caught her as well, turning her to stone.Today, her petrified form remains in the village of Drangsnes, known as the Kerling rock formation—a reminder of the trolls' ill-fated quest to reshape Iceland's coasts.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Westfjords is one of the oldest parts of Iceland. The ancient basaltic lava flows date back to the Tertiary period, which is around 7 to 16 million years ago.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Tröll – troll
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Where is there treasure behind Skógafoss waterfall?
In Icelandic Legends and Fairy Tales, 1862-64, Jón Árnason (1819–1888) added more details to the story of Þrasi Þórólfsson in Skógar. It is said that Þrasi buried a chest full of gold and treasures beneath the Skógafoss waterfall, and in olden times, part of this chest was visible.An old rhyme goes:
"Þrasi's chest is filled with treasure,
Hidden beneath Skógafoss waterfall,
The first to find it there,
Will discover great riches."
Jón also recounts that around the year 1600, three men attempted to retrieve the chest. However, they were distracted when they thought their farmhouse was on fire. Rushing back, they found no fire. When they returned to the waterfall, they managed to hook a ring attached to the chest.As they tried to pull it out, the ring broke off. It is said that this very ring is now affixed to the door of the church in Skógar.
Random Fact of the Episode
There are many more waterfalls behind Skogafoss waterfall. This path is part of the Fimmmvöruháls trail.
Explore Iceland on Your Own
Go Car Rental Iceland Go Car Rental Iceland is a local Icelandic car rental company that has great customer service, a large variety of cars and very competitive prices. Use my code Iceland10 to save 10% off the entire cost of your rental car.I personally use them for when I go on adventures, and I’m so glad to hear that many of my listeners and subscribers are also having a great experience with them. I mentioned in a previous episode that one of my listeners switched to Go Car Rental Iceland from one of the internationally known rental car companies here and she saved $400! That was for a rental during the summer when prices can sometimes double due to demand.Go Campers - Camper Van Rental in IcelandIf you plan to use a campervan, use my code Iceland7 to save 7% and get two free duvets with your GO Camper van rental. Also, I have a great episode coming up soon about how to choose the right camper van for your travels in Iceland, so keep an eye out for that.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Íslenzkar þjóðsögur og ævintýri - Icelandic Legends and Fairy Tales
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
A Plague Sent Sorcerers int Hiding
When a plague ravaged Iceland in the 15th century, eighteen sorcerers formed a desperate alliance, fleeing to the remote Vestmannaeyjar Islands (Westman Islands) to escape its deadly grip. They hoped to wait out the plague, but as it finally began to subside, they grew curious. Did anyone still live on the mainland?They chose one among them, neither the strongest nor the weakest, to go ashore and find out. But they warned him—if he didn’t return by Christmas, they would send a deadly zombie to kill him.
A Post-Apocalyptic Scene in Iceland
The man wandered through the desolate land, finding only abandoned farms and scattered corpses. Hope seemed lost until, at last, he came upon a closed farmhouse. When he knocked, a beautiful young woman answered.Overcome with relief, she embraced him, believing she was the last living soul. She pleaded with him to stay, and though he was bound by his promise to return, her loneliness moved him. He stayed with her, but as Christmas approached, he knew he had to leave.
Preparing for a Zombie Attack
On Christmas Eve, as he prepared to go, the woman begged him to stay, warning that his journey back would be futile. Time was short, and he realized he wouldn’t make it. Resigned to his fate, he decided to wait for death by her side.As the night deepened, the man grew sleepy while the woman remained watchful. She kept waking him, asking where the zombie was. But as it drew nearer, his sleep became more profound. Finally, he announced that the zombie had reached the farm and then fell into an unbreakable slumber.
The Zombie is Tricked
The woman, however, was ready. As a rust-brown vapor, the zombie seeped into the farmhouse and took human form. When it demanded she move so it could reach its target, she challenged it instead. “Show me how big you can become,” she said. The zombie expanded until it filled the room. Then she asked, “Now, how small can you get?”The zombie boasted it could shrink to a fly, and as it did, she quickly trapped it in a sheep’s leg bone. When she woke the man, he was astonished to be alive. The woman revealed her cunning trap, mocking the supposed power of the island wizards. They celebrated together, but soon, the man grew anxious again. The wizards, he feared, would create an even stronger zombie to finish him off by New Year’s Eve.
Zombie Danger Averted for the Last Time
On the eve of the new year, the woman led him to a hidden vault beneath a bush. Inside, they found a terrifying figure—her foster father—lying in a dark chamber lit only by a candle in a skull.After hearing their tale, the foster father took the sheep’s leg, freed the trapped zombie, and ordered it to devour all the wizards’ zombies. The zombie-turned-fly obeyed, growing immense and consuming every undead creature sent from the islands.With the threat vanquished, the man and the woman returned to her farm. They fell in love, stayed together, and their descendants multiplied, filling the earth with life once more.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Black Death, which devastated much of Europe in the 14th century, somehow spared Iceland. The plague never became a constant presence on the island, unlike in neighboring countries. However, Iceland wasn’t entirely untouched by this deadly disease.In the 15th century, two severe plague epidemics did hit the country. The first outbreak arrived in 1402 and caused widespread devastation until early spring 1404. Nearly a century later, the second epidemic struck during the winter of 1494-95, once again leaving its mark on Iceland's history.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Uppvakningur – zombie
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Recently a horrific accident in an ice cave resulted in a tragedy that has rocked the Icelandic tourism industry. After international news sources picked up this incident, many potential visitors have expressed worry about whether they should ever go into an ice cave.I’m going to share what has been reported in Iceland, action being taken to prevent potential ice cave tragedies, and when it is safest to go on an ice cave tour.Before I dive in though, I would like to extend my deepest condolences to the family of the person who lost their life.
An Ice Cave Tour Turns into Tragedy
On Sunday, August 26th, 2024 rescue crews in Southeast Iceland searched for two missing tourists after an ice cave partially collapsed on the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. The collapse occurred while a group of tourists was inside the cave. One tourist, a US national, was pronounced dead at the scene, while another, his pregnant wife, sustained serious injuries and was flown to a hospital in Reykjavík.
Continuing Search and Rescue Efforts
Following the collapse, around 50-60 rescue workers were deployed to the site, working in rotating shifts to clear away ice by hand due to the inability to bring heavy equipment to the site. Although weather conditions were favorable, the difficult glacier environment posed challenges to the rescue efforts.Authorities as well as Search & Rescue teams had initially been told that 25 tourists were on the tour but only 23 were accounted for. The assumption was that two people were buried under the ice or stuck in the cave.After a day of Search & Rescue workers digging in the ice in three groups doing one-hour shifts at each time, the search was called off for the two missing people because they never went on the tour. So basically, the tour company only had 23 people on the tour but initially thought there was 25.
Concerns Over Tour Safety and Regulations
The incident has sparked criticism from experts and officials regarding the safety practices of tour companies offering ice cave tours on Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Experienced glacier guides had previously raised concerns about the dangers of operating such tours outside the safer winter months (December to March).A 2017 risk assessment report had already warned against summer ice cave tours due to increased risks, yet tour companies continued these excursions year-round, driven by the growing tourism market.
Government and Park Authorities' Response
In response to the accident, Vatnajökull National Park temporarily suspended all ice cave tours within its boundaries. The park authorities, along with government officials, expressed deep regret over the incident and acknowledged the failure to enforce earlier safety warnings. A government task force has been established to investigate why these warnings were not heeded and to ensure stricter regulations moving forward.
Call for Stricter Regulations on Ice Cave Tour Operations
The conduct of the tour company involved, Ice Pic Journeys, has been criticized, particularly for its marketing practices. Officials are now calling for a reassessment of the regulatory framework governing ice cave tours, with potential new regulations to prohibit such tours during unsafe periods.The Icelandic Tourist Board is also considering expanding its oversight to require all tour operators to submit safety plans, rather than relying on a sample. One other important finding is that the area where the accident took place had been advised against going to because of recent glacial movements over that summer that could make dangerous conditions.
National Park and Government Actions
Our current Prime Minister and other government officials have emphasized the need to understand the regulatory failures that led to the tragedy.
“At first glance, it seems we have a decent regulatory framework concerning insurance, education, -
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
A Tale of How a Canyon is named after a Giantess
Kolugljúfur Canyon gets its name from the legendary giantess Kola, who made her home on a ledge within the gorge. According to local folklore, Kola was quite resourceful, often catching salmon straight from the river with her bare hands for breakfast.On occasion, she would cook her catch in the Koluketill Kettle, a nearby natural hot spring, to enjoy a warm meal later in the day. Kola’s connection to this place was deeply practical—she appreciated the abundant salmon and the convenient hot spring rather than the scenic beauty that draws visitors today.
Random Fact of the Episode
Kolugljúfur Canyon, located in the north of Iceland, is a hidden gem that showcases the raw beauty of Icelandic nature. This stunning canyon, approximately one kilometer long and up to 50 meters deep, was carved out by the Víðidalsá River over millennia. It is home to the spectacular Kolufossar Waterfalls, a series of cascades that tumble through the gorge, creating a breathtaking natural spectacle.Despite its beauty, Kolugljúfur remains off the beaten path, offering visitors a peaceful and uncrowded experience. Two main hiking trails allow for exploration of the canyon's depths or a more leisurely stroll along the rim, providing stunning views at every turn. The area is also rich in birdlife and other fauna, adding to its appeal as a destination for nature enthusiasts.
Drive Yourself Around Iceland
Go Car Rental Iceland is a local Icelandic car rental company that has great customer service, a large variety of cars and very competitive prices. Use my code Iceland10 to save 10% off the entire cost of your rental car.I personally use them for when I go on adventures, and I’m so glad to hear that many of my listeners and subscribers are also having a great experience with them. I mentioned in a previous episode that one of my listeners switched to Go Car Rental Iceland from one of the internationally known rental car companies here and she saved $400! That was for a rental during the summer when prices can sometimes double due to demand.If you plan to use a campervan, use my code Iceland7 to save 7% and get two free duvets with your GO Camper van rental. Also, I have a great episode coming up soon about how to choose the right camper van for your travels in Iceland, so keep an eye out for that.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Kolugljúfur is broken down into two words. Kola is the name of the giantess and means coal. While gljúfur means canyon.
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
An Icelandic Saga that Mentions the Lyngbakur
The Saga of Örvar-Oddur from the 13th or 14th century mentions the Lyngbakur. In part of the saga, Oddur is seeing vengeance against Ögmundur Flóki (sometimes referred to as Ögmundur Eyþjófsbani or "Eythjof's-killer") for the murder of his blood-brother Þórður.To make it safely to Ögmundr Flóki’s location, Oddur was guided by his half-giant son, Vignir. Oddur and his crew set sail towards a fjord in Helluland where Ögmundur was rumored to be hiding. Along the way, they encountered two enormous sea creatures that were so large they appeared as islands.
Two Sea Monsters that Look Like Islands
In the saga, Vignir said, "These were two sea monsters, one called Hafgúfa and the other Lyngbakur. Hafgúfa is the largest creature in the entire ocean. It devours men, ships, whales, and anything else nearby. It stays submerged for days before surfacing, and when it does, it remains on the surface for at least one tide."Five men had mistakenly disembarked on what they believed was an island, only to be dragged into the sea when Lyngbakur dove beneath the waves, leading to their deaths. Despite this, the group managed to navigate through the jaws of Hafgúfa, the other monster that Ögmundur had magically summoned to stop them.
Lean More About Sea Monsters Spotted in Iceland
The book "Meeting with the Monsters" is a wonderful resource if you want to learn more about sea monsters in Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
The lyngbakur is said to eat every three years when it swallows everything in its path, including birds, fish and any other life in the sea.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Lyngbakur – Heather back
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega. -
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
A Tyrant Farm Owner
Long ago, in the northern reaches of Iceland, there was a farmstead called Skíðastaðir, where a wealthy farmer ruled with an iron fist. His wealth was immense, and he had many laborers working tirelessly, both summer and winter. The farmer was known for his strict ways, especially during the haymaking season. He demanded that the women servants cook meals only on Sundays, leaving the other days for hard labor in the fields. Church was out of the question, and reading the bible was forbidden. His farm was a place of toil, not of worship.
A Strange & Deadly Disaster
One Sunday morning, something strange happened. A mysterious man, dressed in white and holding a staff, was seen by many in the area. He was walking northwards over Vansdalsfjall, a mountain that loomed above Skíðastaðir. The man stopped at the top of the mountain, looked down upon the farm, and struck the earth with his staff. Suddenly, the ground began to shake, and a massive landslide started to rumble down the slope, growing larger and more terrifying as it descended. This unstoppable force crashed into the farmhouse, leaving nothing but destruction in its wake. All who lived there perished, except for one young girl who had, by some twist of fate, been away from the farmhouse at that very moment.
A Young & Kind Woman Working on the Farm
This girl had lived at Skíðastaðir for a long time, but her heart was heavy with sorrow. She was deeply troubled by the farmer’s godlessness, yet she remained kind and dutiful, earning the affection of her masters and fellow workers alike.She often cooked on holy days without complaint, though her only reward was being allowed to scrape the pots clean. The winter before the landslide was one of the harshest anyone could remember. People and animals alike were starving, but the wealthy farmer refused to share his abundance, turning away those who came to him in desperate need.The girl, however, could not bear to see others suffer. She would give what little she could to the poor and hungry, even offering them the scrapings from the pots. The winter was cruel to the animals too, and they died in great numbers, their bodies piling up as the cold tightened its grip.Ravens gathered at the farms, searching for any scraps that might be thrown out. Moved by their plight, the girl threw out whatever she could from the kitchen. One raven, in particular, became fond of her, following her wherever she went outside. He was always there, waiting for her to share a morsel.
How the Raven Saved the Young Woman
As spring turned to summer, the raven continued his visits, arriving early each morning at Skíðastaðir. The girl, with her kind heart, always saved a bit of food for him. On the fateful Sunday morning when the landslide occurred, she had risen early to cook porridge.Eager to feed her raven friend, she hurried to scrape the pot before he arrived. But when she went outside, the raven was acting strangely. He wouldn’t touch the food she offered, instead fluttering around anxiously and then flying a short distance away into the field.Puzzled, the girl followed him, determined to find out what was wrong. The raven flew a little farther each time she approached, leading her further and further from the farmhouse. She didn’t understand why he was behaving this way, but she trusted him and kept following.Eventually, they had traveled some distance south of the homefield when the girl decided it was time to turn back.Just then, she heard a terrifying roar coming from the mountain. She turned to see the landslide crashing down, sweeping away the farmhouse and everything in its path.The realization struck her like a bolt of lightning—the raven had saved her life. Overcome with gratitude, she thanked God with all her heart for sending this wise and faithful bird to lead her to safety. - Montre plus
