Episodes
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Portia Menlove was born and raised in Salt Lake City. She spent time doing outdoor sports with her family. Portia was immediately draw to climbing as an ADHD kid and started climbing all the time at the Wasatch Front Climbing Gym and going on trips with older climbers. Portia competed in youth and adult bouldering competitions, including the Junior Competitive Climbing Association, Professional Climbers Association, Mammut Bouldering Championships, and Nationals. In 2005 Portia won Nationals and was on the US Climbing Team. Portia discusses inspirational female climbers, friendships surrounding competitions, the pressures of competition, and disordered eating. Portia now focuses more energy into trail running, but still loves to climb and be a part of the community. Portia is an ICU nurse at the Huntsman Cancer Institute.
View Portia Menlove's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Larry Love was born in Oroville, California where he grew up playing outdoors and enjoying sports. His dad was a plumber and his mother was a cook. After his parents were divorced, he and his mother moved to Salt Lake City where he attended the Sherman Elementary, Granite Junior High, Granite High, and Olympus High Schools. Right after high school he entered the Army Reserve, where he served for eight years. He attended the University of Utah and Brigham Young University, graduating in 1968 in physical education with a coaching emphasis and a minor in German. He played volleyball for the "Y" for four years and substituted the deep powder skiing class. He first climbed in Jackson Hole at age sixteen and was one of the originators of the Alpenbock Club. He talks about climbing with Ted Wilson and discusses the advancement in equipment. Outdoor Recreation Project. Interviewer: Erik Solberg
View Larry Love's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Episodes manquant?
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Cerre Francis was born in St. Louis, Missouri, and suffered from hip dysplasia. Treatment for her condition involved multiple surgeries and a body cast during her first year. Her family was not particularly oriented to the outdoors so early in her life she was limited to taking lessons that her parents signed her up with. Her high-energy nature led her to more adventures in the outdoors when her family moved out of urban St. Louis. She first experienced climbing when a friend, who was an experienced climber, took her to a cliff. She surprised her friend by making the climb without any falls on the first try. From that point her desire to climb played a larger part in shaping her life. To get around her parents' restriction against overnight trips she fabricated a high school sponsored climbing club. At eighteen she convinced her parents to let her go to school in Steamboat Springs to be closer to the mountains of Rifle. Shortly after she moved on to Salt Lake and the climbing opportunities it offered. Her experience and drive led her to enter into competitive climbing. Cerre believes that climbing is losing its label as an extreme sport as it becomes more popular with people left with fewer available activities. Utah Interview is part of the Outdoor Recreation Project. Interviewer: John Worsencroft
View Cerre Francis' Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Jessica Taverna developed a love for the outdoors when she spent a semester working on a farm in Vermont during junior high school. In college, a friend of hers took her climbing and she loved it. She moved to Washington DC to work and became involved with the climbing community there. Jessica chose to come to graduate school in Salt Lake City because of climbing. She talks about her climbing experiences in Utah and the climbing community. She describes the climbing industry´s impact on the sport and on the environment. Outdoor Recreation Interviewer: John Worsencroft.
View Jessica Taverna's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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John Cronin grew up in New York City and Long Island. He started rock climbing in 1987 and quickly left to live by the Shawangunks, NY, to climb. Within a year, John started doing climbing competitions, including a few international World Cups. John really enjoyed the mental and physical aspects of competitions. In 1992, John moved to Salt Lake City to continue training for competitions and climbing locally at American Fork Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, and other areas. John recounts memorable first ascents and repeats during a very intense 12 year climbing career. John left Salt Lake City and stopped climbing, but continues to visit to see family and friends. John now plays table tennis and surfs in his free time in California.
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Sarah Wolfe grew up on Navajo Nation reservation with her mother and sisters. Her primary interests were singing and playing musical instruments and creating programming around culture and the arts. She moved to North Carolina after college and eventually became very involved in the climbing community through the North Carolina Chapter of the American Alpine Club, Triangle Rock Gym, and Carolina Climbers Coalition. She moved to Eugene, Oregon, for her now husband to complete his graduate degree. During that time, she created the Oregon Climbs newsletter to connect and inform climbers across the state about climbing-related news, organized the programming for the Smith Rock Craggin' Classic and Wilsonville Festival of Art, and compiled the Oregon reports for American Alpine Club's Accidents in North America. In winter 2019, Sarah moved to Salt Lake City and created the Utah Climbs Newsletter. Sarah works for Trails Utah, a trail advocacy and trail building nonprofit. She continues to compile Accidents in North America reports for Northern Utah, and serves on Glendale Neighborhood Council Board.
View Sarah Wolfe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library -
Jacinda "JC" Hunter grew up in Wenatchee, Washington, before moving the Utah. JC spent her childhood backpacking in the Cascades with her father and did track and field in high school. After graduating from high school, she started climbing at the Rock Garden in Provo, Utah, and climbing outside. JC worked as a nurse and recounts returning to climbing after several years of being pregnant and barefoot with her four children, getting the first ascent on Fantasy Island, and first female ascent on Breaking the Law. JC talks about being a female sponsored athlete and love of deep water soloing. JC currently lives in Boise, Idaho.
View Jacinda Hunter's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Alex Lemieux grew up outside of Montreal and recounts playing hockey, doing gymnastics, and skiing in his youth with his older brother. In high school Alex became a ski instructor and continued to work his way up through the certifications. Alex was introduced to rock climbing in high school and that soon became his other passion. While on a three-month climbing road trip in the United States, his van broke down outside of Salt Lake City. While waiting for the van repairs, Alex and his then-partner found jobs in Salt Lake City and became full-time residents. Alex became a ski instructor at Park City Mountain and continues to guide backcountry skiing and rock-climbing clients with Utah Mountain adventures as well as other guiding companies. While living in Salt Lake City, Alex and his friends started developing new climbs along the Green River, West Desert, Uintas, and other areas. Alex is particularly drawn to longer adventure climbs. Around 2015, Alex started volunteering with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance's volunteer rebolting group (WARI, the Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative) and now is an employee as an anchor technician. Alex discusses the impact of rebolting old routes and his own route development, safety considerations, and ethical concerns and considerations. With his friend, Rene Cortenraad, Alex created Gear Loop Topo, a business selling very detailed topos of classic multi-pitch climbs.
View Alex Lemieux's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Adriana Chimaras was born in Caracas, Venezuela and grew up in Miami, Florida. After graduation, Adriana moved to Portland, Oregon, and starting climbing. After a long climbing road trip, Adriana settled in Salt Lake City and starting coaching at Momentum Climbing Gym in Millcreek. When approached by Amanda Leonard to create some type of event of event at Joe's Valley, Adriana immediately said yes. Adriana and others created the Joe's Valley Bouldering Festival with Emery County locals, which continues to grow. At the heart of the Festival is bringing the two communities together - locals and climbers. In 2019 Adriana moved to Castle Dale with her husband (Steven Jeffery) to become the Director of Tourism and Museum for Emery County to create more sustainable tourism.
View Adriana Chimaras' Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Ted Wilson discusses being hired to work at the Grand Tetons. He was chosen to be a part of the Tetons rescue team because of his rescue skills. He describes a few rescues he was a part of. After one rescue, the sheriff's office, who hadn't done anything to help, took all the credit for rescuing a group of kids. The most harrowing, and most famous, rescue Mr. Wilson took part in was a three day rescue on the north face of Mount Owen in 1967. A man and woman were signaling for help on the mountain. The rescue team assembled and put together a plan. It took them two days to plan the rescue and get to the victim. They got the woman off the mountain, but the man was very badly injured. Mr. Wilson stayed up with the victim during the first night, discussing climbing in Europe and trying to keep his mind off the pain. In the morning a helicopter brought morphine for the victim. On the third day, the team decided to go down the mountain with the victim, which was a very complicated process. At one point two of the rescuers (mathematicians), worked together to estimate the distance to a ledge beneath them by listening to the sound of a rock falling onto it. They succeeded in saving the victim, but the victim, according to Mr. Wilson, was upset. He told the press it shouldn't have taken the rescuers that long. All the rescuers were extremely upset, and some still are, though Mr. Wilson doesn't think about it anymore. He did his job and he got paid for it and he saved a life. Mr. Wilson then describes life after working at the Tetons. After the rescue in '67, Mr. Wilson had more confidence in accomplishing goals because he had overcome such a difficult task. He also learned to appreciate the aesthetic qualities of climbing, instead of only thinking of it as climbing. Mr. Wilson considers mountaineering to be the most challenging and rewarding form of climbing, but believes that other, newer forms of climbing have value as well. He then, discusses advances in gear and equipment and talks about some of the climbers that he admires most. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewer: Matt Driscoll and Erin Halcomb.
View Ted Wilson's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Ted Wilson discusses being hired to work at the Grand Tetons. He was chosen to be a part of the Tetons rescue team because of his rescue skills. He describes a few rescues he was a part of. After one rescue, the sheriff's office, who hadn't done anything to help, took all the credit for rescuing a group of kids. The most harrowing, and most famous, rescue Mr. Wilson took part in was a three day rescue on the north face of Mount Owen in 1967. A man and woman were signaling for help on the mountain. The rescue team assembled and put together a plan. It took them two days to plan the rescue and get to the victim. They got the woman off the mountain, but the man was very badly injured. Mr. Wilson stayed up with the victim during the first night, discussing climbing in Europe and trying to keep his mind off the pain. In the morning a helicopter brought morphine for the victim. On the third day, the team decided to go down the mountain with the victim, which was a very complicated process. At one point two of the rescuers (mathematicians), worked together to estimate the distance to a ledge beneath them by listening to the sound of a rock falling onto it. They succeeded in saving the victim, but the victim, according to Mr. Wilson, was upset. He told the press it shouldn't have taken the rescuers that long. All the rescuers were extremely upset, and some still are, though Mr. Wilson doesn't think about it anymore. He did his job and he got paid for it and he saved a life. Mr. Wilson then describes life after working at the Tetons. After the rescue in '67, Mr. Wilson had more confidence in accomplishing goals because he had overcome such a difficult task. He also learned to appreciate the aesthetic qualities of climbing, instead of only thinking of it as climbing. Mr. Wilson considers mountaineering to be the most challenging and rewarding form of climbing, but believes that other, newer forms of climbing have value as well. He then, discusses advances in gear and equipment and talks about some of the climbers that he admires most. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewer: Matt Driscoll.
View Ted Wilson's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Julia Geisler grew up in Deep Creek Lake, Maryland. She discusses an early connection to nature and outdoor activities like night skiing, camping, snowboarding, and backpacking. After graduating from Dickinson College, in Carlisle, Pennsylvania, with a degree in Environmental Science, Julia traveled, through-hiked the Appalachian Trail and John Muir Trail, taught English in Japan, and guided outdoor trips for youth in California for the Adventures Cross-country and in Utah for the Oakley School. In 2003 Julia moved to Park City, Utah, for snowboarding and found work waitressing/bar-tending and being a climbing guide for White Pine Touring under Charlie Sturgis' mentorship. In 2012, Julia became the Executive Director of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) and started her own guiding business Park City Yoga Adventures. Julia talks about several SLCA accomplishments including signing a MOU with the Uinta Wasatch Cache National Forest, signing the Gate Buttress lease with The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Little Cottonwood Canyon, creating the Alpenbock Loop Trail with the Forest Service and other partners at the bottom of Little Cottonwood Canyon, rerouting the Jacob's Ladder Trail to Lone Peak Cirque, collecting data and advocating for permanent pit toilets at Joe's Valley bouldering areas in Orangeville, Utah, and helping to establish the first professional anchor maintenance crew in the country.
View Julia Geisler's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Greg Child grew up in Sydney, Australia, and stated climbing in high school with friends. Greg discusses early climbing, equipment, and tactics in Australia. In 1977, Greg visited Yosemite to climb El Capitan and then from about 1980s onwards lived in the United States climbing in Colorado, California, Washington, and Utah. Greg recounts challenges to writing, including the internet and new work for hire contracts, and the processes and logistics for Himalayan expeditions. In late 1990s, Greg moved to Castle Valley, UT, for the dramatic landscapes and solitude. Greg recounts a few meaningful climbs, Excommunication on The Priest and a multi-pitch adventure with John Catto in Red Canyon. Greg really enjoys walking to find archeological sites in Southern Utah and served on the Friends of Cedar Mesa's board.
View Greg Child's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Melissa Lipani was born and raised in Rochester, New York. Her family owned Lipani's Bakery, which unfortunately burned and was never re-opened. Melissa participated in dance and gymnastics as a youth. Melissa moved during college to Fort Collins and feel in love with the mountains and being outside. She eventually found climbing and became obsessed. After a period of traveling and climbing throughout North America with her husband, Adam Holmes, they settled in Salt Lake City. Melissa worked at Black Diamond Equipment in various positions and then for several animal welfare organizations and now is a real estate agent. Melissa recounts memorable boulders in Little Cottonwood Canyon and Joe's Valley, along with volunteer work with HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundations' Climb for Life events in Salt Lake City. Melissa continues to foster dogs and does dog therapy for the third district courthouse.
View Melissa Lipani's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.
View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.
View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.
View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.
View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.
View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.
View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library
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