Episodes
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Today in Wine News: Harvest has already begun in some of the Northern Hemisphere’s warmer wine regions, but after a rainy spring in notoriously chilly Champagne, Le Comité Champagne has decided to wait until mid-September to start picking grapes for the world’s best sparkling wines.
With a heat wave threatening to sweep through Champagne, how will the 2024 crop fare? And how much can Champenoise vineyard managers prepare for temperatures rising well above normal?
Keep listening to learn more.
Further Reading
* “Together for the Champagne harvest” (CIVC press release)
* “5 reasons why Champagne remains optimistic for 2024” (Liz Palmer)
* “Why Champagne is well-placed to weather climate change” (Patrick Schmitt/The Drinks Business)
In Other News
Here are some additional highlights from the week:
The Institute of Masters of Wine have announced five new Masters of Wine. The new class of MWs includes Neil Bernardi, Tone Veseth Furuholmen, Benjamin Hasko, Victoria Mason, and Wei Xing. There are now 431 Masters of Wine representing 30 countries throughout the world.
* “Five new Masters of Wine announced today” (Patrick Schmitt/The Drinks Business)
Today in the symbiotic critter and wine relationship… A South African wine estate is using drones to drop predatory wasps on their vines in an effort to curb the deadly leafroll virus. The project called SkyBugs, a collaboration between a Cape Town-based bug supplier and an agritech company, is helping Vergelegen Wine Estate manage its 130 hectares of vineyards in the Western Cape of South Africa.
* “A South African vineyard is dropping predatory wasps from drones to keep its grapes free from bugs” (Gertrude Kitongo/CNN)
And finally, American filmmaker Steven Soderberg has become the unofficial mascot for a little-known Bolivian spirit. In 2010, Soderberg collaborated with Bolivian singani producer Casa Real on a premium version, Singani 63, meant to be imported and shared with other countries. Soderberg worked with the TTB for eight years to formally recognize singani as brandy, and after that recognition came in January 2023, Singani 63 is now distributed in most U.S. states and the United Kingdom. And yes, this is a Soderberg fan account, thank you for asking.
* “Movie Director Unearths Bolivia’s Secret Brandy” (W. Blake Gray/WineSearcher)
That’s all the news this week. Thank you for listening to The Wine Press!
We’ll be back next Thursday with a new crop of wine news. Until then, cheers and happy drinking!
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Today in Wine News: Alsace recently approved a third Grand Cru vineyard specifically for Pinot Noir. In a major wine region that has thrived on the production and sale of prestigious white wines, Alsace has added three Grand Cru designations for Pinot Noir since 2022.
Why would one of the world’s best destinations start to expand their most high end wine production to red grapes now after decades of specialization in white wines? Is Alsace the new Burgundy, or can wine drinkers expect to see more red wines from Alsace in the near future?
Keep listening to learn more.
Further Reading
Some great reads on Alsatian red wines that may pique your interest.
* “Is the future of Alsace red?” (Benjamin Roefls/Jancis Robinson)
* “Alsace adventure (1): Domaine Weinbach” (Jamie Goode/Wineanorak)
In Other News
Here are some additional highlights from the week:
A former city leader of Hong Kong is publicly pressing the Chinese government to only serve Chinese wines on official government holidays. Representatives from the Wine Association of Hong Kong have already indicated their support for a national mandate that features exclusively Chinese wines at national celebrations. The next public holiday will be celebrated in mainland China, Hong Kong, and Macau on October 1.
* “Call for only Chinese wine to be drunk at national celebrations” (Sarah Neish/The Drinks Business)
Northern California vineyards have the new state bat to thank for effective pest management. Since pallid bats and other types of bats have been taking the night shift of pest control, especially in organic vineyards, the California wine industry has saved approximately $1.3 billion dollars in pest control every year.
* “Wine Country’s ‘coolest’ vineyardist - the pallid bat!...” (Janis Mara/North Bay Biz)
And finally, Wine Enthusiast has named its Future 40 Tastemakers for 2024. Among this year’s selections are two of my favorite wine writers on Substack: Chasity Cooper of Bright + Balanced and Amanda Joffee of Shitty Wine Memes. Congratulations to all the honorees!
* “Future 40 Tastemakers 2024” (Wine Enthusiast)
That’s all the news this week. Thank you for listening to The Wine Press!
We’ll be back next Thursday with a new crop of wine news.
Until then, cheers and happy drinking!
The Wine Press is a Brunello Bombshell podcast, supported by listeners and wine drinkers like you! Please consider becoming a free or premium subscriber.
This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit brunellobombshell.substack.com/subscribe -
Episodes manquant?
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Today in Wine News: The United States will be holding its presidential election on Tuesday, November 5, but the food and wine industry is already bracing for change no matter who is elected president.
In an age where more people are choosing to abstain from alcohol, how will farm workers and restaurants thrive over the next four years? Moreover, how would changes to farm policy and taxes on alcohol and other imports affect life for all Americans in the near future?
Keep listening to learn more.
In Other News
Here are some additional highlights from the week:
Marcelo Aguero has been appointed the new CEO for Kobrand Corporation. He is the first person of color to hold the position in Kobrand’s 80 year history.
* “Marcelo Aguero Named Kobrand CEO” (Chris S. Nishiwaki/Wine Business)
Chile has established its newest D.O. on Easter Island.
* “Easter Island named new Chilean D.O.” (Louis Thomas/The Drinks Business)
And finally, the world’s most visible custody fight over a winery has taken a new turn. Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie have roped Campari into a new lawsuit regarding the distribution of their Provençal rosé brand, Miraval.
* “A Fresh Chapter in the Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie War Over Miraval” (Kristen Bieler/Wine Spectator)
That’s all the news this week. Thank you for listening to The Wine Press!
We’ll be back next Thursday with a new crop of wine news. Until then, cheers and happy drinking!
The Wine Press is a Brunello Bombshell podcast, supported by listeners and wine drinkers like you! Please consider becoming a free or premium subscriber.
This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit brunellobombshell.substack.com/subscribe -
Today in Wine News
One year ago today, the deadliest fire in the United States hit Lahaina, a small town on the northwest side of the island of Maui in Hawaii. More than 2,000 buildings and 102 lives were lost when the fire tore through the historic resort town, leaving many hospitality workers in mourning.
How has the hospitality industry changed in one of the most hospitable parts of the United States? And how can a small town rebuild its legacy of attracting tourists when the rebuilding process is still so fresh?
Keep listening to learn more.
In Other News
Here are some additional highlights from the week:
TikTok quietly updated their advertising policy to allow advertising for alcohol.
* “Alcohol Advertising Now Allowed on TikTok” (Strike Kerr Johns/Alcohol.law Digest)
The 2024 harvest has kicked off in Napa Valley.
* “Napa harvest kicks off with Chardonnay picked first” (Sarah Neish/The Drinks Business)
And finally, the Michelin Guide has put forth its list of notable California restaurants for 2024.
* “All the 2024 California Michelin Guide Stars” (Michelin Guide)
That’s all the news this week. Thank you for listening to The Wine Press!
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We’ll be back next Thursday with a new crop of wine news. Until then, cheers and happy drinking!
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Today in Wine News: Over the last 10 years, the NBA has openly embraced wine culture, to the point where many notable players of past and present have made wine a part of their professional lives and a fun hobby. What started as wine-soaked team dinners has turned into current and former players making their own wine in collaboration with America’s best vintners.
Have professional basketball players changed the way American wine drinkers learn about wine and experience it for themselves? And why can’t the press stop talking about it?
Keep listening to learn more.
In Other News
Here are some additional highlights from the week:
This year’s Olympic Games in Paris have banned alcohol sales in stadiums.
* “The Drinks Brands You Can Expect To See at the 2024 Olympics” (Pete O’Connell/VinePair)
* “Sparkling wine brands go for gold at the Paris Olympics” (Louis Thomas/The Drinks Business)
Vintage Wine Estates, one of California’s largest beverage companies, has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy.
* “Large California wine producer files for bankruptcy, to sell assets” (Jonathan Stempel/Reuters)
* “Four Takeaways From the Bankruptcy Filing Rocking a California Wine Company” (Justine Jones/Eater)
And finally, this is what it sounds like when doves cry over “Purple Rain”.
* “Settlement reached between local winery, Prince’s estate in ‘Purple Rain’ dispute” (Chelsea Simeon/WKBN 27 and Nexstar Media)
We’ll be back next Thursday with a new crop of wine news. Until then, cheers and happy drinking!
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Today in Wine News
Madeira has been celebrated throughout history, but a wide variety of influences - from climate change to tourism to bananas - have severely impacted yields and production methods.
Now that fortified wines in general are starting to rise in popularity, how are vintners on the Portuguese island planning to uphold their winemaking traditions and continue bringing Madeira wines to international markets?
Keep listening to learn more.
In Other News
Here are some additional highlights from the week:
LCBO stores across Canada have now reopened after a two week strike shut down stores in Ontario.
* “LCBO strike to end Monday after workers ratify tentative agreement” (CBC News)
FlyWithWine, the wine luggage company trusted by industry professionals and wine enthusiasts alike, has closed for good.
* “FlyWithWine Closes, Files Chapter 7” (Kerana Todorov/Wine Business)
And finally, spritz cocktails are hitting pop culture again thanks to an unlikely hero.
* “Recipe: El Presidente’s viral Wolf Spritzer cocktail recipe” (Anna Spiegel/Axios D.C.)
The Wine Press is a Brunello Bombshell podcast, supported by listeners and wine drinkers like you! To receive new episodes and support this work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.
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Today in Wine News: Bulk wine is having a moment of crisis everywhere wine is made, but especially in California. Many states rely on California’s bulk wine grapes to flesh out their own blends, and “family-run” organizations like Gallo Wine depend on bulk grapes for their entry level wines.
With vineyard managers unable to sell their grapes, how is the rest of the wine industry affected? Keep listening to learn more.
It’s Wednesday, July 17.
In other news, here are some additional highlights from the week:
Darioush Winery has acquired an additional Yountville vineyard.
* “Darioush Buys Napa Valley Vineyard” (Kerana Todorov/Wine Business)
The United Kingdom has surpassed China and the United States to become Chilean wine’s biggest importer.
* “UK becomes Chile’s top importer” (Arabella Mileham/The Drinks Business)
And finally, the future of Bordeaux’s en primeur wine sales program is in dire straits.
* “Recriminations in Bordeaux after En Primeur ‘failure’” (Oliver Styles/WineSearcher)
* “A First Look at Bordeaux 2023” (Maria Banson/Brunello Bombshell)
The Wine Press is a Brunello Bombshell podcast, which is supported by readers and wine drinkers like you! To receive new posts and support this work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.
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Thank you for your patience! We’ve busted through some technical difficulties to get this episode to your ears. It took longer than we had hoped, but we’re here and ready to party now. Thank you for listening to The Wine Press!
Today in Wine News: Oregon’s Willamette Valley has long been a destination for premium American Pinot Noir, but climate change and consumer demands have started shifting the regional focus towards Chardonnay. Winemakers say that they’ve replanted some of their prized Pinot Noir vines with Chardonnay, and demand for the grape has kept up with the new plantings.
Has Chardonnay become the new “it grape” in Willamette Valley? Why is this American wine region starting to double down on its investment in a grape that grows well in many different climates? Keep listening to learn what makes Willamette Valley Chardonnay different from other iterations you’ve tasted, and why this delicious wine is on its way to becoming a benchmark grape and region pairing right alongside Burgundy.
In other news, here are some additional highlights from the week:
Jayson Woodbridge, the winemaker behind Hundred Acre and Fortunate Son, has bought Madrigal Family Winery in Calistoga.
* “Why a cult Cabernet winemaker just bought an under-the-radar Napa winery” (Jess Lander/SF Chronicle)
Gigondas is celebrating the release of its first white wines.
* “In White as in Red, Domaine Santa Duc Unveils the New Vintage of Its Clos in Gigondas: Le Clos Des Hospices” (Press Release/Wine Industry Advisor)
The Michelin Guide has announced 13 California restaurants added to their Recommended list.
* “These 5 Bay Area Restaurants Just Got Added to the Michelin Guide” (Dianne de Guzman/Eater)
The Wine Press is a Brunello Bombshell podcast, supported by readers and wine drinkers like you! To receive new posts and support this work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.
This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit brunellobombshell.substack.com/subscribe -
Today in Wine News: California Governor Gavin Newsom has signed State Bill 1524 - The Consumers Legal Remedies Act. Effective as of July 1, the famous “junk fee ban” will be in place throughout California, with a few major exceptions specifically created for the food service industry. The amendment that provides the legal loophole for restaurants to charge service fees was just signed by Governor Newsom on Saturday, June 29, a last minute change after many restaurants had announced fee hikes and even restaurant closures.
Many consumers are upset about the restaurant loophole. So why have restaurant owners, delivery services, and the best lawyers in California fought to keep service fees in place? Keep listening to learn how the amended junk fee ban affects restaurants, bars, and the foodies that love them.
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The Wine Press is a Brunello Bombshell podcast, supported by listeners and wine drinkers like you! To receive new posts and support this work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.
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In other news, here are some additional highlights from the week:
Spanish laboratories have found success with two grapes related to Tempranillo that may offset the effects of climate change.
* “Tempranillo grape relatives show promise in climate study” (Noah Chichester/Decanter)
Most people turn lemons into lemonade, but Durant Vineyards in Willamette Valley has turned their smoke-tainted grapes into barbeque sauce.
* “Oregon winery turns 800 cases of tainted Pinot into BBQ sauce” (Sarah Neish/The Drinks Business)
Funeral services for acclaimed winemaker Warren Winiarski were held last week.
* “Hundreds Pay Homage to Stag's Leap Wine Cellars' Visionary Founder Warren Winiarski and His Multifaceted Life” (Pam Strayer/Wine Business)
FOR MORE INFORMATION
* SB-1524 Consumers Legal Remedies Act: advertisements: restaurant, bar, and other food services. (California Legislative Information)
* “That service fee on your restaurant bill will stay for now, but what’s it for?” (Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)
* “Restaurant surcharges are officially an exemption to the California junk fee law” (Joanna Fantozzi/Nation’s Restaurant News)
* “San Francisco’s Hidden Fee Drama in Restaurants Explained” (Jeff Gibson/Kintsugi)
* “Service fees still on the menu at Bay Area restaurants” (Kate Murphy and Megan Rose Dickey/Axios)
* “Bay Area restaurants react to new Calif. law with anger, shock” (Madeline Wills/SF Gate)
* “90% Of Zuni Servers Have Left the Restaurant Due To No-Tipping Policy; Policy May Still Be Revised” (Jay Barmann/SFist)
* “Should restaurant surcharge fees be illegal? More than 1,000 readers weighed in” (Mario Cortez/San Francisco Chronicle)
* Good Good Culture Club’s statement about their in-house Equitable Compensation Fee
* Non-Monetary Ways to Help Restaurants (Good Good Culture Club)
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Today in wine news: Millennials and Gen Z have been trolled by the media for their spending habits for a long time. But the wine world is starting to wake up to the buying power of its youngest consumers. Here’s how wineries have tapped into the wants and needs of wine drinkers from the newest generations of wine drinkers.
Brunello Bombshell is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.
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In other news, here are some additional highlights from the week:
Marchesi Antinori has fully acquired Col Solare, the Washington winery that Antinori previously co-owned with Ste. Michelle Estates. The Italian wine conglomerate is starting to truly stake its claim on American-made wines. In January, it was reported that Antinori had started their own importing business specifically created to give their American wine holdings more distribution. On June 20, Marchesi Antinori issued a press release indicating that they had bought the remaining shares of Col Solare from their partner in Washington, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Col Solare was co-founded by Marchesi Antinori and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in the Red Mountain AVA in Washington as a way to showcase the beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon fruit coming out of the Washington hills. The first vintage of Col Solare wine was released in 1995, and the two co-founding wine producers formally established the Col Solare label and estate vineyard in 2007. Marchesi Antinori also bought the remaining shares of Napa Valley favorite Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates last year. The sale of Col Solare is expected to be completed by the end of June. As of today, no sales numbers have been reported.
* “Marchesi Antinori acquires Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ Col Solare stake” (Conor Reynolds/Just Drinks)
Speaking of experiences, Dom Pérignon has announced the hard launch of its two most recent Champagnes at an immersive event this summer. The famous Champagne estate will be releasing the 2015 vintage of their eponymous wine and the 2006 vintage of their ultra-premium Plénitude 2 wine at an exclusive event in the Hamptons from July 19-21. To celebrate the new releases, Dom Pérignon will be transporting special guests to an undisclosed 21-acre estate for a uniquely tactile experience that captures both the beauty of the seaside surroundings and the elegance of the wines. Argentine Chef Francis Mallmann, world renowned for his Seven Fires approach to grilling, will be serving a multi course dinner menu each night to pair with the two new cuvees. Matthew Quintana, head of Dom Pérignon in the United States, says in his press release, “Dom Pérignon has always sought unique experiences to pair with our distinctive Vintages… The Hamptons, with its serene beauty, myriad of textures and sophisticated palate, provides an ideal canvas for such an immersive experience. This setting resonates with Dom Pérignon's dedication to exceptional environments that enhance the enjoyment of our champagnes." Tickets are limited, and cost $4,000 per diner. Bookings are now available online.
* “Dom Pérignon Unveils Vintage 2015 and Vintage 2006 Plénitude 2 with Landmark Public Experience in the Hamptons” (Press Release/Wine Industry Advisor)
And finally, KCBS Food and Wine editor Narsai David has passed away. Bay Area residents have been listening to Narsai David talk openly about food and wine on KCBS news radio since the 80s. Born in South Bend, Indiana to Assyrian-Iranian immigrant parents, David moved to Turlock, California as a child, and called the Bay Area home until his death. He opened Narsai’s Restaurant in Kensington in 1970, then quickly became a notable figure in food and wine media. During his time as a restaurateur, David cooked for both the British Royal Family and rock-and-roll royalty, namely, The Rolling Stones. His unassuming approach to the world of food, as well as his championing of the farm to table movement from the beginning of its popularity in the 1970s, made him a fan favorite for years. Narsai David is survived by his wife, Venus, his son, David, and a community of friends, co-workers, and foodies worldwide. He was 87.
* “Bay Area radio legend Narsai David, who answered listeners' questions for decades, dies” (Katie Dowd/SF Gate)
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FOR MORE INFORMATION
* “How Wineries Are Getting In Cash-Rich Youngsters” (Kathleen Wilcox/The Drinks Business)
* “Survey Says: Many Gen Zers and Millennials Seeking Financial Independence” (Christina Roman/Experian)
* “Millennials and Gen Z to account for 70% of global luxury sales by 2025” (Retailboss)
* “New Study Shows How Wine Is Winning Over The 30-Something Crowd” (Liz Thatch MW/Forbes)
* “Wine consumption and purchase behaviour in high and low involvement situations: A comparison of Gen Y and older consumers” (Joanna Fountain and Charles Lamb/Lincoln University New Zealand)
* “Millennials Are Entering Their Collecting Years — Will They Buy the Same Wines Boomers Did?” (John Sumners/VinePair)
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Every year, the best of the best in the food world descend upon the Lyric Opera House in Chicago for the annual James Beard Awards. Presented by the James Beard Foundation, the “Oscars of food” present chefs, restaurateurs, and media figures with medals that represent the year’s finest contributions to the way Americans eat and think about food.
But wait a second. Why are we talking about the Oscars of food on a wine-and-movies blog?
Reason Number 1: Awards season is the best season. Moira Rose knows what’s up.
Reason Number 2: In my opinion, food is always wine’s favorite dance partner. Yes, they are delicious individually, but at the end of the day, finding a great food and wine pairing is like experiencing a Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers movie for the first time. There’s just something harmonious about that perfect bite together with the perfect sip.
Reason Number 3: Hospitality and beverage service on the restaurant floor remain key parts of the wine industry. Great chefs and great sommeliers work together every day to create unique dining experiences for everyone that walks through the doors of their restaurant. To understand what is happening in the food world is to celebrate restaurant culture as a whole.
On Saturday, June 8, the James Beard Foundation presented their slate of Media Awards, recognizing the best cookbooks, social media accounts, and documentary films from the past year. Michelle Miller, co-host of CBS Saturday Morning, acted as the Master of Ceremonies for the 2.5-hour ceremony that awarded industry luminaries like José Andrés, Sohla El-Waylly, KJ Kearny, and more.
Mondays are usually a day off for people in the restaurant world, and Monday, June 10 brought the Restaurant and Chef Awards. In a three hour ceremony hosted by Nyesa Arrington, Richard Blais, Amanda Freitag, and Marcus Samuelsson, 22 awards were presented to the best chefs, restaurants, and hospitality programs of the year.
Here are some of my wine-related highlights, and a few additional trends and takeaways from this year’s awards ceremonies:
SOMM TV won the James Beard Award for Visual Media - Long Form for the fourth SOMM documentary (SOMM: Cup of Salvation). This marks SOMM TV’s second award and third nomination in three years, following 2022’s Sparklers (Nominee, Reality or Competition Visual Media) and 2023’s The Whole Animal (Winner, Visual Media - Long Form). Yes, Jason Wise - the filmmaker behind the original SOMM documentary that launched a thousand pins - has now established himself as one of the most trusted voices in wine media.
The Bay Area has walked away from the James Beard Awards ceremonies empty handed for the second year in a row. Two Bay Area-based chefs (Geoff Davis from Burdell in Oakland and Rogelio Garcia of Auro in Calistoga) and two Bay Area beverage destinations (The Morris and Pacific Cocktail Haven, both in San Francisco) were named as finalists in three categories. Mandalay, the first Burmese restaurant to open in San Francisco, was previously announced as one of the winners of 2024 America’s Classics.
If last year’s awards ceremony cemented Portland, Oregon as a major food destination, 2024 has crowned Portland, Maine as your next travel destination for some really good baked goods. Atsuko Fujimoto of Norimoto Bakery won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker, and ZU Bakery won Outstanding Bakery.
Finding the best drinks in the country will involve a trip to the South: Lula Drake Wine Parlour in Columbia, South Carolina is the James Beard Foundation’s pick for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program, and New Orleans’ Jewel of the South is the Outstanding Bar for 2024.
And, finally, my Best Dressed List…
I want to hear more from you. What are your takeaways from this year’s James Beard Awards? Have you dined at any of the winning restaurants? Are you planning a food trip based on this year’s winners? Let me know in the comments below!
Further Reading
* The full list of 2024 James Beard Media Award winners (Eater).
* The full list of 2024 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Award winners (Eater).
* The full list of all the Latiné chefs and restauranteurs finalists nominated for James Beard Awards this year (Nichole Shaw/Hispanic Entrepeneur).
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Here are some highlights from the week in wine news:
RIP Drizly (and possibly more alcohol delivery services). Drizly, the alcohol delivery app, will be shutting its doors by the end of March. In an unexpected move, Uber (who had previously bought Drizly for over $1 billion less than three years ago) announced that company restructuring would fold the Drizly name and bring the liquor delivery function into its current Uber Eats program. In addition, speculation is swirling that Drizly was susceptible to some considerable cybersecurity risks, which were absorbed by Uber at the time of the buyout.
* Read more from VinePair here.
* Further reading and analysis from W. Blake Gray at WineSearcher is available here.
Silicon Valley Bank has released its annual 2024 State of the Industry Report. SVB’s Wine Division Founder Rob McMillan is the author of the report, in which he predicts that the wine industry is in for a difficult year. 2023 saw overall wine sales decrease by 2-4%, with more decreases on the horizon in 2024. The wine world needs younger consumers to reach for wine more often, as Baby Boomers are still far and away the most likely age group to bring wine to a party. There is a silver lining, however - while the losses in the report feel insurmountable McMillan is not predicting the U.S. economy to fall into recession this year.
* Read more from Wine Industry Network here.
* Read the press release and the full report from Silicon Valley Bank here.
Brunello Bombshell is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.
In an historic change of pace, more women are now running the storied estates of Chianti. Eric Asimov, the chief wine writer for The New York Times, traveled to Chianti Classico to profile the women who have taken over the day-to-day operations of Istine, Castello di Ama, Terreno, I Fabbri, and Podere le Boncie. Throughout Europe, and especially in Italy, it is common for fathers to pass along the family wine business to their sons. Recent generations of women have come to the forefront of these businesses, often getting university degrees in winemaking or working harvests elsewhere in the world before taking over the winemaker role at their family estates.
* Read more from The New York Times here (paywall).
* Further Reading: Feature articles on Angela Fronti from Istine, Lorenza Sebasti from Castello di Ama, Sofia Ruhne from Terreno, Susanna Grassi from I Fabbri, and Giovanna Morganti from Podere le Boncie.
Abrie Beeslaar, the long time cellarmaster at Kanonkop Estates in Stellenbosch, will be leaving his role later this year. Beeslaar has worked for Kanonkop, arguably the most famous name in South African Pinotage, for 23 years, and will leave his full-time role in August to focus on his own eponymous Pinotage-driven label. While Beeslaar has agreed to serve as a consultant for Kanonkop, the winery will be restructuring and promoting from within the company, teasing some new releases along the way. Beeslaar started his work as Kanonkop’s cellarmaster before the age of 30, and in 2018, he became the first South African winemaker to earn a 100 point score from Tim Atkin MW for the 2015 Kanonkop Paul Sauer.
* Read more from Decanter here.
* Learn about Abrie Beeslaar and his own label, Beeslaar Wines, here.
And finally, today in “Not On My 2024 Bingo Card”... Josh Wine is the meme of the moment. Josh Cellars makes the number one selling table wine in the United States, with $5 million cases sold in a year, but in the early days of 2024, it has cemented its meme status by the Internet. You don’t have to go far to see Josh at Da Vinci’s Last Supper, Don Draper and Josh, or the ever-popular Drake and Josh images circulating around the world wide web. Out of the bevy of articles on the recent Josh craze (there were so many I could have made this entire article a Josh Wine meme think piece roundup), my favorite critical analysis comes from GQ: What do two sommeliers named Josh actually think about Josh wines?
* Read more from GQ here.
* Another think piece from Slate here.
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Here are some highlights from the week in wine news:
Big deals keep on turnin’... Domaine William Fèvre, one of the most prestigious estates in Chablis, is now under new ownership. Domaines des Barons de Rothschild, the luxury wine conglomerate that also owns Château Lafite Rothschild in Bordeaux and Viña Los Vascos in Chile, acquired Fèvre in a deal for an undisclosed sum. Domaine William Fèvre has a total of 72 hectares of vineyards that cover the spectrum of quality levels in Chablis (village level to Grand Cru), all of which are organically farmed. The acquisition of the Fèvre estate marks the first holdings in Burgundy for the Domaines des Barons de Rothschild portfolio, which is now requiring all of its vineyards to be certified organic.
* Read more from WineSearcher here.
* Read more from Decanter here.
There’s a regime change at UC Davis’ Viticulture and Enology Department. Dr. David Block, who has been the Department Chair for over 12 years, quietly stepped down from his post at the start of the year. Associate Professor Dr. Ben Monpetit has been named Interim Chair. Dr. Block will be on sabbatical for part of 2024, and will focus on teaching and research upon his return. Dr. Monpetit, a yeast microbiologist who has served as Vice Chair for the last two years, has publicly stated his desire to enhance the student experience at UCD by updating classroom tools and providing more research opportunities.
* Read more from WineBusiness here.
* Read the announcement from UC Davis here.
The team behind COTE Steakhouse has opened a new fried chicken concept with one of the largest Champagne lists in the US. COQODAQ opened its doors to the public on January 12, just down the street from the original COTE Steakhouse in the Flatiron District of New York City. Simon Kim, the owner of Gracious Hospitality Management, has expressed a desire to put a fine dining spin on Korean fried chicken, similar to the concept behind COTE. Victoria James, the Director of Beverage for all Gracious Hospitality Management restaurants, has assembled a 600 bottle wine list for COQODAQ, 400 of which are Champagne. The list includes Special Club Champagnes, niche grower-producer labels, and a special Gaston Chiquet cuvée made exclusively for COQODAQ.
* Read more from Wine Spectator here.
* Further reading from The New York Times here (paywall).
Marchesi Antinori has started its own import company with a direct relationship to American wine buyers. Vinattieri 1385 formally opened for business on January 1 and will be fully operative by the end of the month. The new offshoot company will be responsible for directly importing Antinori wines to the United States. Vinattieri 1385 is a direct result of last year’s news that Marchesi Antinori had directly purchased Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, one of the most prestigious producers in Napa Valley. Between the current Antinori portfolio and the Stag’s Leap wines, Vinattieri 1385 is expected to handle 500,000 cases of wine and approximately $100 million in sales.
* Read more from Wine Industry Network here.
* Read more from Wine Business here.
And finally, a wine news story specifically for TV lovers and awards season addicts. JUSTIN Vineyards and Winery will be pouring their Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc as an official sponsor of the 75th Emmy Awards. JUSTIN has served as the official wine for Emmy events in the past, but this is the first year that the Paso Robles-based winery will have a notable presence at the Governors Gala Winners Circle. As the newly crowned Emmy winners get their statues engraved, Master Sommelier Joseph Spellman will pour JUSTIN wines while winners receive personalized, engraved bottles of JUSTIN ISOSCELES. The ceremony will be televised live from Los Angeles tonight (Monday, January 15) at 5 PM on FOX.
* Read more from Yahoo! Finance here.
* Check out the full list of Emmys sponsors here.
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Here are some highlights from the week in wine news:
The famed Pebble Beach Food and Wine Festival is returning for the first time since 2020. One of America’s premiere food and wine events will be making its anticipated return to Monterey from April 4-7 this year. Events on the docket include seminars about La Grande Dame, Opus One, BOND, and Laurent Perrier’s Grand Siècle. Expect to see a lot of celebrity chefs and sommeliers in attendance, including local favorites Chef Suzette Gresham (Acquerello), Chef Gonzalo Guzman (Nopalito), Chef Charles Phan (Slanted Door), and Master Sommelier Max Kast. Ticket prices range from $475 for a one day tasting pass to $10,000 for an all-access VIP pass to the whole weekend, including the PBFW Golf Invitational. The weekend is a fundraiser for Pebble Beach Company Foundation, a non-profit that assists low-income youth in the Pebble Beach area.
* Read more from SF Gate here.
* Learn more about the festival at its website here.
California’s “Bottle Bill” is now starting to take effect. Signed into law by Governor Gavin Newsom in September 2022, Senate Bill 1013 enforces the recyclability of wine and spirits containers, which were not previously accepted for CA redemption value at CalRecycle locations. California residents may now redeem standard glass wine bottles for 10 cents each, any spirits or juice containers under 24 fluid ounces for 5 cents each, and large Tetra-Paks and bag-in-box containers for 25 cents per piece. Combined with new labeling laws regarding the “California Redemption Value” language on wine and spirits bottles, this is a sweeping piece of legislation that will help to curb the ongoing glass shortage in the beverage industry, in addition to giving glass, aluminum, and Tetra-Pak containers another life in the form of recycled goods. All California wineries and spirits producers are now required to register with CalRecycle (effective January 1 of this year), and the labeling laws with go into effect on July 1, 2025, giving producers time to design new labels.
* Read more from Wine Business here.
* Learn more about Beverage Container Recycling from CalRecycle here.
Bordeaux’s historic châteaux are returning to French ownership after years of Chinese investment. In the early 2010’s, wealthy Chinese wine lovers were taking initiative and investing money into their favorite Bordeaux châteaux, sometimes going as far as to take on ownership, partnership, and even renaming rights. Between more restrictive Chinese investment policies, the COVID-19 pandemic, and lots of frustration from Bordeaux residents and consumers, these same Chinese investors are now quietly selling back their properties to French investors. The new owners typically share their deep knowledge of the land and the product in order to resuscitate the family-run estates of Bordeaux, but they face many challenges in getting these châteaux operating in the black.
* Read more from Wine Searcher here.
* Further Reading: Hubert Prolongeau wrote a feature article for Le Monde in 2022 about the beginning of the buyback movement in Bordeaux.
SevenFiftyDaily has assembled a list of six stories to monitor in the new year. Rather than focusing on the anticipated drinking trends of 2024, Betsy Andrews has taken a holistic approach and cultivated a great list of six things to look out for in the wine industry. Among the trends to note are ensuring good working conditions and solid pay for labor, both in the vineyard and on restaurant floors, a focus on regenerative agriculture in place of more biodynamic certifications, and more BIPOC-led wine businesses.
* Read more from SevenFiftyDaily here.
And finally, as consumers find interest in Dry January and sober living, sommeliers are starting to reckon with their own relationships to alcohol. Lauren Paige Richeson has profiled three notable sommeliers - Laura Vidal, Sam Anderson, and Master of Wine Tim Hanni - about their professional and personal lives as sober sommeliers. Each of these sommeliers has a different approach to sobriety on the floor and at home, and it’s refreshing to hear about a side of the beverage industry that doesn’t often get air time.
* Read more from Wine Enthusiast here.
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This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit brunellobombshell.substack.com/subscribe -
Here are some highlights from the week in wine news:
Napa Green, the top sustainability certification body in Napa Valley, is outlawing Roundup use in vineyards. Napa Green announced last month that Roundup, the world’s most popular herbicide, will be phased out of certified vineyards by 2026, with a longer term goal of completely eliminating the use of synthetic herbicides in mind. This makes Napa Green the first sustainability credential in the world to completely eliminate Roundup. About 64 percent of the current Napa Green membership doesn't use synthetic herbicides, and at a recent town hall meeting about the subject, Erik Dodd from Wight Vineyard Management said, “I tell people to expect maybe a 15 to 20 percent cost increase”. With more of a focus on identifiable terroir and vineyard worker health, Napa Green has started an important worldwide conversation about the definition of sustainable winemaking.
* Read more from Wine Business here, and read more from Decanter here.
* Learn more about Napa Green at their website, linked here.
The French are drinking less wine. A recent study by Ipsos has confirmed that French people are drinking wine less often, and the percentage of people who don’t drink at all is rising. In an abrupt change from the French Paradox craze that swept through American culture almost 30 years ago, millennials and Gen Z French people are quickly replacing boomers’ drinking habits by not drinking wine every day, with about 19% choosing not to drink any alcohol.
* Read more from Barrons here.
* Further Reading: Dr. Liz Thatch MW writes about French millennials’ reticence to drink wine, and offers some creative solutions.
Take a look at the 15 best moments for wine in pop culture this year. Wine Spectator’s Unfiltered editors have compiled some of the most - ahem - wine-conic headlines from 2023. From Belgians dumping massive amounts of “the champagne of beers”, to 6- and 7-figure wine heists, to the Taylor Swift-approved celebrity wine that flooded our Instagram feeds, these are the OMG moments that defined the year in wine.
* Read more from Wine Spectator here.
In Memoriam 2023. Here’s a list of all the wine industry figures we lost this year, alongside their Wine Spectator obituaries. At the end of this year, we toast to the giants that have come before us, and may we keep their names and their wines in our hearts and glasses forever.
* Read more from Wine Spectator here.
Kim Severson from The New York Times predicts some food trends for 2024. Food will always be wine’s dance partner, so it’s nice to see what to expect on restaurant menus in the coming year. That being said, there are one or two drink trends to examine. I haven’t been to Double Chicken Please (yet), so if anyone in New York wants to help with field research, please try a Waldorf Salad cocktail for me and report back.
* Read more from The New York Times here.
And finally, we wrap up 2023 with some words of wisdom for drinking responsibly. Here’s a collection of sommelier-tested and approved ways to avoid hangovers and consume alcohol with mindfulness. A Balanced Glass is a great resource for people interested in no/low alcohol-related content, and especially for beverage industry professionals looking for a holistic approach to alcohol consumption.
* Read more from Forbes here.
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Here are some highlights from the week in wine news:
* American wine pioneer Miljenko “Mike” Grgich has passed away at the age of 100. Mike Grgich is perhaps best known for his contribution to the 1976 Judgment of Paris as the winemaker behind Chateau Montelena’s winning Chardonnay (just the second vintage of Chardonnay the estate ever made). Mr. Grgich made a second home for himself in the Napa Valley after his native Croatia was overtaken by Communist rule. With a resume including winemaking jobs at Souverain Winery, Beaulieu Vineyards, and Robert Mondavi, Grgich provided expertise and a newfound tradition to an emerging Napa Valley before settling into his own eponymous label. In the 1990’s Mr. Grgich returned to Croatia and established Grgić Vina winery in an effort to support the post-war rebuilding efforts. Grgich also worked with Dr. Carol Meredith from UC Davis to trace the roots of California Zinfandel to its Croatian origins in the grape Kaštelanski Crljenak.
* Read the obituary from Grgich Hills Estate here.
* Further Reading: A Glass Full of Miracles by Miljenko “Mike” Grgich (2016)
* Willamette Valley AVA celebrates its 40th anniversary this year. In 1983, Willamette Valley became the 55th designated American Viticultural Area. Oregon’s premiere wine region has now blossomed in size, hosting 11 sub-AVAs within the boundaries of the original territory, with four sub-AVAs added within the last five years. Today, Willamette Valley is considered a landmark region for American Pinot Noir, with its variety of soil types and terroirs providing beautiful wines with incredible diversity. From cult favorite producers to household names, Willamette Valley is home to over 700 wineries and so much more than its signature grape. Willamette Valley Wineries Association is planning a year’s worth of special events to commemorate the special anniversary, including a wine tasting weekend that recreates tasting room environments from 1984.
* Read the press release from Willamette Valley Wineries Association here.
* Read more from Oregon Live here.
* One of Champagne’s most unique têtes de cuvées is likely to become extinct. Bollinger’s Vieilles Vignes Françaises, a Blanc de Noirs champagne only produced in spectacular vintages, gets its name from the ungrafted vines that surround the headquarters of the esteemed production house in Aÿ. Most of the vines in Champagne were grafted onto American rootstock when phylloxera first invaded in the 1880’s. In an effort to concentrate flavor in grapes and establish a signature house style, it is customary for modern vintners to regraft vines onto new rootstock every 20 years or so. Because the yields on ungrafted vines is significantly lower, Vieilles Vignes Françaises is by definition a rarity for the Champagne region, and this outstanding cuvee has become known as a standard bearer for sparkling wines made from 100% Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, phylloxera has started to infect the historic ungrafted vines, and Bollinger is worried that some of the oldest vines in Champagne have produced the last vintage of Vieilles Vignes Françaises.
* Read more from The Drinks Business here.
* Read a detailed history of Vieilles Vignes Françaises by Tom Stevenson here.
* The Languedoc region welcomes a new red wine appellation. Grés de Montpellier is the first new appellation in Languedoc since 2017, effective November 30. Grés de Montpellier is a red wine-only appellation, with Southern French favorites Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre as focal grape varieties. Wines will be required to age for a minimum of one year before release. Starting in 2024, the region can state “Grés de Montpellier” on wine labels without the conjunctive Languedoc labeling.
* Read more from Decanter here.
* The eighth edition of the Langtons Classification for fine Australian wines has been published. The Langtons Classification was first released in 1990 with a three-tiered structure, and focuses on ranking the most in-demand Australian wines at auction. Inspired by the 1855 Classified Growths of Bordeaux, Langton’s Classification now condenses its picks into two categories: First Classified and Classified. 19 new wines have joined the list this year, of which 65% originate from cool climate growing regions, marking a difference in both Australian winemaking and consumer demand. Historic producer Penfolds continues to dominate the 100-bottle list with eight different cuvées, four of which have earned First Classified Status.
* Read more from Langtons here.
* Read more from The World of Fine Wine here.
* The Court of Master Sommeliers-Americas has removed the terms “Old World” and “New World” in its blind tasting language standards. Previous generations of sommeliers have been taught that “Old World” wines generally come from Europe and exhibit less alcohol, tighter acidity levels, and more secondary characteristics than their “New World” counterparts from around the world. Now that winemaking techniques and climate change have caused viticultural lines to blur, the Court of Master Sommeliers-Americas will be assessing regional typicity for wines based on more current standards. The new blind tasting grid that eliminates “Old World” and “New World” will take effect in Court exams starting in 2024.
* Read the statement from the CMS-A newsletter here.
* Read more from Forbes here.
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Your weekly wine news roundup is now in a new format, available here every Monday.
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The audio version of The Brunello Bombshell Newsletter, Edition 01.04: G.H. Mumm and T-Day Prep.
