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For nearly a decade, the luxury sector has experienced what seemed like limitless growth, with brands like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel pushing product prices higher — and seeing consumers pay up. However, recent quarterly reports have marked a sudden shift, with even industry giants reporting disappointing revenue. As luxury editor Robert Willliams explains, “These brands are omnipresent and people are seeing them everywhere. Whether consumers finally pull the trigger is so much about their economic confidence, this feel-good factor. Are things going to be better for me next month than they are today?”
This week, BoF executive editor Brian Baskin and luxury editor Robert Williams discuss the forces contributing to this downturn, the implications for top brands and potential strategies luxury players are exploring to reignite growth.
Key Insights:
Global economic uncertainty has hit U.S. and European luxury spending hard. “Whether they finally pull the trigger [on a big purchase] is about economic confidence,” explains Williams, noting that factors like inflation, wage stagnation, and election cycles have consumers second-guessing expensive purchases. There are similar issues in Europe, with proximity to conflicts in the Middle East, Ukraine and Russia additionally impacting consumer sentiment and spending power.However, according to Williams, the biggest issue is China pulling back on this type of spending. China’s luxury market has always been a growth engine, but changing economic sentiments and less travel due to COVID are affecting luxury sales. “[Chinese consumers] are really holding out for when they feel better about the economy. … They’re holding out for when they can feel like they can get a deal because prices are higher in China than most of the world for luxury brands,” says Williams. Many consumers are frustrated with steep price increases, as seen with Dior’s Lady Dior bag, which has jumped 76% in price since 2019. “Customers are quite fed up with how dramatic the price increases have been often for like for like products,” Williams states, adding that consumers often feel they’re “spending a lot more for something that’s not necessarily as good.” Even if quality hasn’t declined, the perception has, especially with social media spotlighting any issues. “With the way our Internet culture works, if someone has an issue with the product, they can make that so public in a way and really disenchant a lot of people and their audience and make them question, is this high price worth it?”Facing a saturated market after years of rapid growth and price hikes, many forecast that 2025 and 2026 are to be similarly stagnant or negative periods for sales.” Even if it wasn't just a question of the prices or if there weren't these other macroeconomic factors, there could be a sense of having saturated the market, of people needing to be bored with fashion a bit so that then they can rediscover it. I'm not sure that it's the right time to introduce the next big idea if you were the one who had it,” says Williams. “Because if you're among the brands whose sales are quite negative … then how much can you really invest in telling the world that you're the one who has the next big idea?”.Additional Resources:
Inside Luxury’s Slowdown | BoFWhy Some Luxury Groups Are Doing Better Than Others | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Sammy Basso left an indelible mark on our community last year at BoF VOICES 2023. Sammy had a rare genetic condition called Progeria that accelerates ageing, affecting only one in 20 million people, with an average life expectancy of 13-and-a-half years. Last year at VOICES, Sammy celebrated his 28th birthday with us, and shared his extraordinary resilience and passion, for life and for research.
“To be a patient and scientist is beautiful for me because it is a great antidote against fear,” he reflected. “Never think you are not enough to make a difference ... So many people said it’s impossible to do research into such a rare disease. But now thanks to that, we are opening ways to treat so many others. We are making a difference.”
This week on The BoF Podcast, Basso in conversation with friend Annastasia Seebohm Giacomini about the importance of his research and his philosophy of how to live a full life.
Key Insights:
When asked how he maintains such a positive outlook despite the daily challenges of his condition, Basso explains, “I must be positive, because if I won’t be, I would limit my life more than progeria itself. My life is worth living, progeria or not. I love my life …This is the only possibility for the universe to be myself. And you are the only possibility for the universe to be in the stars. So we can’t waste this great opportunity. We need to be the best copy of ourselves.”Reflecting on his outlook toward life, Basso shares the importance of gratitude in his daily routine: “Progeria taught me not to believe anything to be granted. I’ve risked my life so many times, I’ve wished to die several times, so now every day for me is a gift. When I wake up in the morning, I have to be grateful for that day. I must be grateful for that day.” Basso finds strength in community and expresses his deep gratitude for the role of his family and friends in his life. “They are the reason why I wake up every morning. Sometimes when I’m too tired, I remember that my life is not only mine. So if I can’t do it for myself, I must wake up for them and do it.”Additional Resources:
BoF VOICES 2023: Finding Hope in the DarkRegister now to join us at BoF Voices 2024, our annual gathering for big thinkers, streaming live from November 12 to 14
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In recent years, sports has provided a rich ground for fashion partnerships. Where even three years ago Dior’s tie-up with Paris Saint-Germain was relatively novel, today it’s harder to find luxury brands that aren’t at least dabbling in football, Formula 1 or other sports. These deals are also getting increasingly elaborate, with brands outfitting athletes, teams and even entire leagues on and off the field.
This new wave of partnerships is about more than just looks or finding new audiences — it’s about cultural relevance.
“Fashion brands have looked to [sports] to market their products to groups of consumers who maybe weren’t targeted by these brands previously, and athletes themselves have become major brands and media businesses in their own right,” says BoF sports correspondent Daniel-Yaw Miller.
This week on The Debrief, Executive Editor Brian Baskin and Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with Daniel-Yaw Miller to explore how the worlds of fashion and sports are colliding like never before.
Key Insights:
For a partnership to be successful, it must feel authentic. Arsenal's collaboration with London-based brand Labrum, which presented a runway show at Arsenal's stadium is a prime example. The jersey colours draw influence from the Pan-African flag and hint to the histories of the players and the club. "That partnership makes sense on a cultural level and fans can buy into that authentic messaging rather than just a logo swap,” he says.As individual athletes gain larger followings, brands see more appeal in creating tailored partnerships with rising stars like Coco Gauff and Angel Reese. “Athletes now have a direct bond with fans that the previous generation of stars never had,” Miller notes. “Sports fans have had insights into Coco Gauff and Naomi Osaka’s lives since they were teenagers. They’ve grown with them, and that’s at the very essence of their appeal to these brands.”The rise of women’s sports has opened doors for fashion brands that previously overlooked the sector. "And that's really opened up the sports industry, which has traditionally been extremely male dominated. So a whole range of luxury womenswear brands that previously never really had an entry point into the sports industry,” Miller explains. Some sports struggle to find traction in the fashion world. While Formula 1 has embraced luxury, baseball remains on the sidelines. “Baseball has never quite broken out to have true global appeal in a sense that fashion could leverage,” Miller says. “I think baseball is very similar to where Formula One was before the Liberty Media acquisition, where there was a strict atmosphere around showing an interest in things that are outside the direct line of business for a baseball organisation that's hampered how much the sport and the athletes have been able to be in fashion.”Additional Resources:
Fashion’s Sports Obsession Is No Accident | BoF How Athletes Became Fashion Week Royalty | BoF.Inside the Big Business of Styling Athletes | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Khalid Al Tayer, Managing Director of Al Tayer Insignia and CEO of the luxury e-commerce platform Ounass, leads one of the Middle East’s most powerful retail networks. In his first public interview at Oud Fashion Talks, Al Tayer shares insights into the rapid evolution of the Middle Eastern luxury market, the region's growing influence on global trends, and how his business approaches e-commerce with a customer-first mindset. He also discusses the strategic importance of respecting and investing in the Middle Eastern customer while creating opportunities for regional talent to flourish in the luxury landscape.
“The brands that have taken [the Middle Eastern] customer as a very important customer and respect them are seeing benefit. The ones that approach this customer as, ‘They’re just going to buy what we make, and we’re going to do … a good enough job because we’re busy somewhere else,’ are not benefiting. Respect the Middle Eastern customer,” shares Al Tayer.
This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Al Tayer to discuss the growing influence of the Middle Eastern luxury market and how businesses can succeed by prioritising the evolving needs of the regional customer.
Key Insights:
Despite challenges in global luxury, Al Tayer points to the Middle East as a resilient outlier in the industry, especially post-Covid. Brand investment in top-tier store experiences, thoughtful activations, and tailored assortments have fostered a deeper connection with the local customer. “The Middle East … has been a shining candle in the industry generally because of the resilience and the growing sophistication of the Middle Eastern customer,” Al Tayer notes, attributing this shift to brands recognising the importance of this loyal market.Al Tayer forecasts that e-commerce will soon make up half of all luxury retail in the region, with Ounass already pushing double-digit growth in this area. “In the next few years … 50 percent of the sales of retail will be online,” he says, describing an evolving model he calls “luxury convenience.” While physical stores will still offer unparalleled experiences, online platforms like Ounass meet the growing demand for digital access and seamless customer journeys.Al Tayer attributes his company’s success to “fanatical focus” and the dedication of his team. “First and foremost, it's all about team and surrounding yourself with the right people,” he says. “I try to build trust by allowing them to have ownership. When they have ownership, they really drive the business like it's their own.” In an industry that requires high levels of execution, he recommends patience and focusing on the details that matter. “Focus on what you’re doing and get it right,” he advises, urging new entrepreneurs to remain committed and data-driven.Additional Resources:
BoF Insights | Fashion in the Middle East: Optimism and Transformation What Escalation in the Middle East War Means for the Industry | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Online shopping promises convenience, but finding the right product among thousands – or hundreds of thousands – of options can often feel like a chore. To address this, retailers are experimenting with AI tools that aim to cut through the clutter with improved search capabilities and personalised shopping experiences. These models don’t just match keywords; they understand user intent and interpret complex search terms, moving closer to a more personal shopping experience online.
“Search works really well when you know specifically what you're looking for,” senior technology correspondent Marc Bain notes, “but there’s potential for AI to bridge that gap when you don’t.”
This week on The Debrief, BoF executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with Bain to explore how AI is transforming e-commerce.
Key Insights:
New AI search tools are evolving past traditional keyword searches, enhancing users’ ability to find what they’re looking for online with greater ease. “These large language models could change search in a way that you can interact with it more naturally,” explains Bain. With AI’s advanced understanding of nuanced searches like “what should I wear to Burning Man?”, these systems can now deliver results based on context, location, and style preferences, making online shopping a more seamless, intuitive experience.AI in e-commerce aims to serve as an attentive, personalised assistant, but brands face the challenge of enhancing the customer experience while maintaining a respectful distance in the digital space. AI must fall on “the right side of the line between concierge and creepy,” Baskin explains. "The ideal is having an online sales associate … where it doesn’t feel like … it’s just throwing products at you to see what sticks,” continues Bain. The goal of AI in e-commerce is to make shopping more intuitive by simplifying search. As Bain notes, “search is notoriously terrible on retail e-commerce sites,” highlighting the need for improvement. However, despite these advancements, consumers may remain hesitant to fully trust AI-driven recommendations. Bain reflects this sentiment, adding, “I would probably look at what it says and then still go do my own research because I don’t fully trust it.”Additional Resources:
The E-Commerce Search Bar Gets an AI Makeover | BoF How AI Could Change Online Product Search and Discovery | BoFCase Study | How to Create the Perfect E-Commerce Site | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Growing up in Hamburg with a photographer father and a stepmother who ran a vintage boutique, Robert Geller was immersed in the world of fashion, art and creativity from a young age. His journey from Marc Jacobs intern to co-founder of cult New York fashion label Cloak to creative director at Rag & Bone is the result of his personal philosophy of saying yes to new opportunities.
“The key thing is saying yes. Just do it and try it. It's always better to do something than not to do it,” shared Geller. “Even if it doesn't go right, you learn a ton from it. You're always better off going out and trying something."
This week on the BoF Podcast, founder and CEO Imran Amed sits down with Geller to explore his journey, learn about the ups and downs of building an independent fashion label, and why he’s taken on his new role as creative director at Rag & Bone.
Key Insights:
Growing up, Geller was deeply influenced by his creative surroundings and his stepmother played a pivotal role in shaping his fashion sensibilities. “She owned a second-hand store in Hamburg, but she only sold Japanese fashion labels,” he recalls, pointing to brands like Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. Trips with her to Paris, where she would take him to “beautiful boutiques,” ignited his passion for fashion. “At a very young age, I really enjoyed it. I sort of found the magic of fashion in these places and in these clothes.”Geller’s first major venture in fashion, Cloak, became a cult label in New York in the early 2000s. Geller left Cloak after the A/W 2004 collection, with the brand finally closing down in 2007. As Geller candidly explains, “We were not really focusing on making money. We didn’t know how to do it, but we knew how to make great clothes and how to put on fun shows.” The purity of vision behind Cloak was undeniable, but it ultimately lacked the business foundation needed for sustainability. While Geller has always embraced creativity, he also understands the importance of balancing it with the practicalities of running a business. “I respect the need for the sales and need for the business, that’s the fuel,” he says. “One cannot exist without the other. You can’t have a collection without getting the business right and having sales,” Geller adds.After years of running his own label, Geller made the leap to become creative director at Rag & Bone in 2023. Reflecting on his approach, he says, “It just needed another layer of excitement... I felt like it was lacking conversations, the exciting pieces, the layer on top that really exemplified the peak of the brand.” Geller’s vision involves integrating the brand's core strengths, like denim, with modern elements to create a cohesive, elevated collection. “It’s not a revolution... we're just trying to layer something on top that’s exciting.”Additional Resources:
Groundhog Day at Rag & Bone | BoFMarcus Wainwright on Rag & Bone and Going It Alone | BoF A Different Kind of Dream at Rag & Bone | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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A growing number of direct-to-consumer brands are disrupting the luxury market by offering high-quality alternatives at more affordable prices. As traditional luxury brands focus on the ultra-wealthy and fast fashion dominates the budget market, these “dupe” brands cater to middle-class consumers who feel priced out of luxury but still want value for their money. Through transparent pricing and savvy use of social media, they are reshaping how consumers think about value and quality.
“The term dupe stems from duplication, but it also does speak to consumer sentiment around pricing today - they do feel duped,” says e-commerce correspondent Malique Morris. “Luxury brands have exponentially raised their prices for hip products in a way that is locking out middle class shoppers who typically could splurge on a few nice bags or a few nice sweaters a year.”
Key insights:
As luxury brands continue to hike prices for their most popular products, middle-class consumers are feeling increasingly excluded from the luxury market. This sentiment is fueling the rise of brands like Quince and Italic. “Luxury brands have exponentially raised their prices for hip products in a way that is locking out middle class shoppers who typically could splurge on a few nice bags or a few nice sweaters a year,” says Morris. “The check is going to come due for luxury brands to explain why their prices are so high.”Dupe brands take advantage of this dynamic by being open about their costs, breaking down exactly how much it takes to produce their items and what they’re selling them for. “Dupe brands are almost annoyingly transparent about pricing in terms of breaking down,” Morris explains. “That’s refreshing for middle-class shoppers who are seeing the prices of things like milk and eggs rise inexplicably. Outside of this vague bogeyman of inflation, their dreams of owning a Chanel bag is moving further away with no real explanation on that front either.” Platforms like TikTok and Instagram have been instrumental in the rise of dupe brands, where influencers showcase cheaper alternatives to high-end products. However, the sustainability of this trend is uncertain. “If consumers stop caring about dupes and engagement goes down, then social media leverage on this front will die out for these brands, but right now, it really is a boon for them,” says Morris.While price is the main draw for dupe brands now, they will need to evolve beyond being simply the cheaper alternative. “What is our differentiator beyond offering good prices now? What is our storytelling? What are our products that are unique to us? If dupe brands can answer those questions, they’ll stop being seen as just cheaper versions,” says Morris.Additional Resources:
What Luxury ‘Dupe’ Brands Get Right About Shoppers | BoF Is Dupe Culture Out of Control? | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Michelle Yeoh has captivated audiences for decades, from her iconic role in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon to her Oscar-winning performance in Everything Everywhere All at Once. Over her storied career, she has consistently pushed boundaries, proving her versatility both on and off the screen, breaking paths as an Asian woman on the global stage.
Now, at the age of 62 Michelle has scored coveted global ambassador roles at not one, but two of fashion’s top luxury brands — Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta.
"Fashion has changed, and it’s not just about dressing younger people," Yeoh says. "You have to find representation across different generations, and I think what I represent is being proud that you are different, that you are older — and there’s nothing wrong with that. Just before the Oscars a silly television commentator said, ‘You’re past your prime because you’re 50-something.’ How dare you? How dare anybody tell you what you are capable of?”
This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Yeoh to discuss her winding journey to the big screen and why fashion is finally embracing older women.
Key Insights:
Yeoh’s path to stardom began with her early passion for dance, which she began as a child in Malaysia before travelling to England to study further. When she had to set her dance dreams aside due to injury, the shift opened the door to acting in action and martial arts films alongside actors like Jackie Chan, Sammo Hung and Jet Li. “I watched [Hung] do the choreography and the fighting, and I thought, ‘this is exactly like dance,’” she says. “This is choreography. We all know what we are doing, it's about how you transfer the energy and the speed of the rhythm.”
On success and failures, Yeoh embraces the lows moment as opportunities to transform. “Failures are what make you learn. If you're only successful, how do you know that's the way? ... It's the journey, not just the destination," says Yeoh. "And in that journey, that's where you learn. That's where you grow, where you meet, where you engage, and that's where you have a full life.”
Yeoh places a deep emphasis on trust and collaboration when choosing her creative partners. “Once I choose to work with you, then I have to trust you. I have to believe that you have the right vision,” she shares. “If I don’t trust you, then I don’t think I’ll be able to give you my best. I have to believe in your vision, that you know what you’re doing, and that we’re in this together."Additional Resources:
How Michelle Yeoh Conquered Fashion | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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The beauty industry thrives on virality, but in the age of social media, that can be a double-edged sword. One viral TikTok video can catapult a brand to success — or bring it to its knees. From Youthforia’s foundation shade controversy to Huda Beauty’s mislabeling error, brands are discovering that managing customer expectations and addressing backlash swiftly is critical to their survival.
“It happens pretty fast when it does happen. … Sometimes it’s an unknown creator who can make [a product] go viral for all the wrong reasons,” says beauty correspondent Daniela Morosini. “You have to be willing to listen when they tell you that you got it wrong.”
Key Insights
Building a strong brand community involves more than just creating a product; it means engaging with your customers and allowing them to have a meaningful role in your brand’s development. “If you're going to create a community to help your brand grow, you need to understand that those customers want a seat at the table,” says Morosini. Listening to customer feedback, especially when things go wrong, is crucial. Being proactive in addressing customer complaints is crucial. As demonstrated by Huda Beauty’s mislabeling issue, taking responsibility early on and offering solutions can stop a backlash from spiralling. Morosini notes, “She took full accountability and offered to make everybody whole if they’d bought the wrong shade.”Hair care products, especially those tied to hair loss, tend to evoke emotional responses and intense scrutiny. The stakes are high as hair loss is a sensitive, deeply personal issue. As Morosini points out, “There are so many factors that can cause hair loss… people don't want to roll the dice if there's even a 1% chance a product could be the cause.”Complexion product mishaps can be particularly damaging for beauty brands, as they quickly highlight inclusivity gaps. “It’s just so obvious when a brand has missed the mark with complexion,” says Morosini. “Oftentimes the scandals that seem to cause a lot of blowback, they come back to that exclusionary point,” she adds. “Nobody likes to feel left out.”Additional Resources:
What to Do When a Beauty Product Launch Goes Wrong | BoFWhy Beauty Brands Keep Getting Accused of Causing Hair Loss — and What They Can Do About It-
Editor's Note: This podcast was amended on Oct. 17 2024 to clarify YSL as the maker of the blush product.
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Zac Posen burst onto the fashion scene in the early 2000s, gaining acclaim for his glamorous designs and dressing Hollywood's elite. After nearly two decades, Posen closed his label in 2019, finding himself at a crossroads that eventually led to a meeting with Richard Dickson, the new CEO of Gap Inc., and the chance to join the company as creative director. Now, he's on a mission to bring cultural relevance and excitement back to brands like Gap, Old Navy, Banana Republic, and Athleta.
“Within five minutes [of meeting Dickson], I knew that there was something very special. It was a cosmic moment where there was like a magic connection, where I saw that I had met my dreamer,” Posen says.
This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Posen to explore his journey of redefining success, his transformative role at Gap Inc., and his vision for the future of fashion.
Key Insights
Closing his eponymous fashion label forced Posen to reevaluate how he defined success, shifting his focus from external achievements to personal fulfilment and creative expression. "Success for me is about being able to inspire a larger public, to be able to work within my own creativity and to use that and what I represent to help a larger public be in touch with their own creativity” he says. “To me, creativity is as essential as sleeping and eating and everything else wonderful in life." Posen found new creative inspiration through returning to his roots of draping and garment creation. “I was back on a mannequin … and just expressing and sculpting in space, it felt exciting,” he shares, describing the joy of reconnecting with hands-on creative work in his father’s studio, the same place where his journey in fashion began. “It felt like a full circle moment.”As creative director of Gap. Inc, Posen is working to modernise brands like Old Navy and Gap by emphasising storytelling, redefining brand identities, and making subtle evolutions that reignite consumer interest. "Building a brand is about being part of the cultural conversation and moving at the speed of culture and actually being able to help move culture forward,” he says.Posen advises young designers to be patient, embrace the balance between art and commerce, and appreciate the opportunity to inspire others. “Creativity is a lifelong pursuit … You can't foresee the path and where it will take you,” he says. “If you are able to work in this industry, to be able to work in a creative field and … understand that fabulous, amazing, magical pendulum that has to be in balance, you are so lucky and so fortunate.”Additional Resources:
The Gap Comeback That’s Actually Working | BoF Do Mass Brands Need Creative Directors? | BoFCreating Cultural Moments in the Age of Algorithms | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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The influencer landscape has shifted dramatically over the last decade. While the image of influencers posting flawless selfies on exotic, brand-sponsored trips still resonates, the reality has become far more complex. Influencers now host live shoppable streams, publish newsletters on Substack and engage in intimate group chats. Their goal is not just to build a following and wait for brands to come calling, but to establish multiple sources of income through affiliate links, brand deals, and subscription models.
“Influencers and creators have realised that they need to diversify and be on multiple platforms. They need to be connecting with their followers in multiple ways and have a deeper relationship with their followers,” says Diana Pearl, senior news and features editor. “Even five years ago, there were people who didn't really take this industry very seriously and didn't realise the difference they could make for their brand. Now it is impossible to ignore.”
Key Insights:
In the evolving digital landscape, influencers and creators are no longer relying on a single platform for success. Diversifying their presence across platforms, from Instagram to Substack, is key. Pearl emphasises, “It’s really all just about diversification... not relying so much on one source, not having to rely so much on Instagram, the algorithm, affiliate links and brand deals.”While macro-influencers may reach a broader audience, smaller influencers often have more engaged, loyal followers. “Once you get so big and you've got millions and millions of followers, you can't have that type of relationship with 5 million people the way you can with 100,000,” says Pearl.The rivalry between influencer marketing platforms LTK and ShopMy highlights a shift in the landscape, with ShopMy offering influencers more control and transparency. Pearl explains that while LTK encourages creators to centralise their content on its app, ShopMy allows influencers to share across platforms. “We know our audience, we know what content resonates with them. But if you hand us this really detailed brief and expect us to act like a traditional ad agency... it’s just not going to come off as authentic,” Pearl explains.The industry is becoming more nuanced, with clear distinctions emerging between influencers and creators. While creators focus on producing unique, engaging content, influencers drive sales and hold sway over purchasing decisions. Influence remains the key asset in the industry, one that can be translated across platforms like Instagram, TikTok, or Substack. "At the end of the day, the most valuable commodity in this business is influence," Pearl explains.By understanding their goals and selecting the right partner to meet them, brands can optimise the impact of their influencer campaigns and better connect with their target audiences. “Brands just need to be smart about what are your goals, what’s the right type of person to achieve these goals or right type of partner and who should we go with from there?” says Pearl.Additional Resources:
The Widening Gap Between Influencers and CreatorsThe Fight for Influencer Marketing Dollars Heats UpWhat’s Driving the Influencer Subscription BoomHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Amid economic uncertainty, a global luxury industry slowdown, and conflicts erupting around the world, designers at the Spring/Summer 2025 shows balanced restraint and expression, resulting in collections that sought deeper emotional and intellectual impact. Megabrands scaled back fashion week festivities as they battened down the hatches with budget cuts and streamlined shows.
“I think there's a general caution and a realignment. I think the state of the world is more conducive to reflection than extravagance,” says Tim Blanks, The Business of Fashion’s editor at large.
It was the designers who took creative risks that stood out. At Marni, Francesco Risso created a cinematic spectacle, transforming cotton into expressive designs, emphasising simple beauty amid turmoil. Alessandro Michele made his anticipated debut at Valentino, honoring the legacy of Valentino Garavani while infusing his flair. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson played with scale, encouraging audiences to rethink aesthetics.
In this episode of The BoF Podcast, Imran Amed sits down with Tim Blanks to unpack the highlights of Fashion Month and discuss how the current global climate is influencing designers and brands.
Key Insights
In his eagerly awaited debut for Valentino, Alessandro Michele seamlessly integrated his unique creative approach with the storied heritage of the house. Blanks describes the collaboration as “a natural consummation ... like lovers meeting after decades of being apart and that kind of explosion of joy.”Sabato De Sarno's recent work at Gucci reflects the complexities of redefining a brand with a rich and influential legacy. While attempting to honor Gucci's heritage, his collections have faced criticism for lacking the distinctive and bold creative direction of his predecessors. Blanks remarks, “the problem is creating a new story for Gucci when the old stories are just so overpowering.”At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson pushed boundaries by experimenting with scale and perspective. His designs included oversized hoop skirts that seemed to hover. "He likes to challenge people's points of view," Blanks observes, adding that Anderson provokes thought "by showing them something that makes them wonder, how would I wear that? How would I sit in that?"Emerging designer Duran Lantink made a strong impression with his collection featuring extreme shapes refined into wearable forms. “Those clothes are a physical realization of independent thinking. What we need is more independent thought... fashion needs more of that," Blanks says.Amed echoes the importance of nurturing new talent, saying, “I think the future of the fashion industry is in good hands with some of these younger designers that haven't necessarily had a big role in a house yet but certainly deserve an opportunity to show what they can do. I think that's part of what we need in the industry—to move away from this lack of risk-taking. Safety and being safe, that's just boring.”Additional resources
In Paris, the Boys Can’t Help It!Beauty Is Still DefianceWhat Does Pressure Look Like in Milan?Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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For decades, department stores were symbols of American retail success, but their shine has long since faded. Overexpansion that began in the 1990s, the growth of e-commerce and the decline of many malls has left a saturated market, with more stores than there is demand. Major department stores have been struggling for decades to adapt to changes in the way their customers shop, with little to show for it.
"These challenges existed ten years ago, but the problem we have today is that it’s getting later and later, and more and more desperate for these department stores. Time is running out, and they still haven’t figured out the solution,” says retail editor Cat Chen.
In this episode of The Debrief, BoF senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young speaks with Chen about why department stores are struggling to stay relevant, how activist investors are complicating the picture, and whether following the approach of European department stores like Selfridges can save this iconic segment of the retail industry.
Key Insights:
Activist investors have been targeting department stores like Macy’s and Kohl’s, but they are more interested in these companies’ real estate portfolios than retail. Chen highlights the parallels with Sears, where the investor Eddie Lampert spun out Sears’ real estate into a separate entity, ultimately leading to its bankruptcy. “The sentiment in the industry is that if these companies were bought out by activist investors it would not be a good sign for the health of these department stores. There wouldn’t be a long-term strategy for maintaining their health,” she says.Nordstrom's strategy for revival includes focusing on experiential retail, enhancing customer service, and possibly going private under the Nordstrom family’s ownership. These moves would allow them to invest in the long-term health of the company without the pressure of quarterly earnings. “The Nordstrom family is really set on making some radical, transformative changes to Nordstrom that they just can't make as a public entity,” Chen explains.European department stores are a potential model for American department stores to replicate. “Look at Selfridges or look at Le Bon Marché. People love spending time in those stores — tourists but also locals,” Chen says. Explaining how European stores are treated like flagships, with significant investments in customer experience and meticulous attention to detail, she adds, “these companies invest in the layout of the store — fixtures, carpeting, lighting — all of these details matter, and European department stores have done a great job making it happen.”Additional Resources:
Why Nordstrom’s Founding Family Wants to Take the Retailer Private | BoFInnovation Won’t Save Department Stores. The Right Products Will. | BoFCan Saks, Neiman Marcus and Amazon Save the American Department Store? | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Alessandro Michele’s whimsical, bold vision as creative director of Gucci revitalised the brand, turning it into a cultural juggernaut. Now, he’s attempting to do the same at Valentino, bringing his signature blend of nostalgia, craftsmanship, and artistic risk-taking to reimagine the Roman couture house.
“This place has such a specific story,” he says. That name, Valentino—it’s a real name, with real life, with real love. … There is always Valentino somewhere with me.”
This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Michele to discuss his evolution as a designer, his deep connection to Valentino’s heritage, and the importance of passion and obsession in achieving creative success.
Key insights
As creative director, Michele said that the weight of Valentino founder Valentino Garavani’s legacy continues to inspire and guide him, even in the smallest details of his work. “When I'm working by myself, with the people of the studio, with Jacopo, there is always Valentino somewhere with me. … There is always an open conversation with him because I can feel the things talking to me, through the dresses, the walls," he said.Contemplating the meaning of success, Michele emphasises the importance of remaining true to himself as a designer. “It’s more moving left and right, rather than up and down. … Success is when you are in the right place, when you're free to be yourself,” he said. His approach to fashion is personal and deeply intuitive, and he protects his creativity by concentrating on his own creative fulfilment rather than trying to please everyone. “I don't need to be someone else. I think a big designer or a good designer needs to be himself.” Michele approaches his work with a deep understanding that creativity comes with taking risks, both in life and in fashion. He views risk as an essential element of growth and evolution in his designs. "You are taking beautiful risks, but they are risks,” he said. “I like myself also for the things I did wrong. … Now that I’m a big boy, I like the Alessandro who did so many wrong things.”For Michele, the magic of fashion and creating a collection lies in the uncertainty. "You put all the ingredients inside, and it’s going to be real only when the first person starts to walk on the catwalk. That’s the magic," he said. “You feel that you were pregnant, but now the baby has a proper life and you can no longer be in control. It's outside and it's gonna walk by himself or herself.”Additional Resources:
Alessandro Michele, Michelle Yeoh, Francesca Bellettini, Zac Posen and Angel Reese Are Our BoF 500 Cover Stars‘Hyper Beauty’: Inside Alessandro Michele’s Surprise Valentino Collection | BoFThe Logic Behind Valentino’s Alessandro Michele Appointment | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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A style renaissance that changed how many men dress – mostly for the better – has congealed into a sea of sameness, at least in the eyes of a growing number of fashion critics and influencers. Too many interchangeable brands take the same approach, blending tailoring with casualwear in neutral-toned collections that are stylish but often fail to inspire. The look is often derided as a menswear “starter pack,” but remains popular with consumers.
This week on The Debrief, Brian Baskin sits down with correspondents Malique Morris and Lei Takanashi to discuss why this “starter pack” approach works for the industry - but at the cost of long-term brand building and customer loyalty. Additionally, they probe what brands must do to recapture consumers' imagination.
“Any brand can make a good product, but what makes a brand good, especially a good menswear brand, is having a great story that's worth telling,” says Takanashi.
Key Insights:
Menswear brands today are following a familiar formula, leading to a prevalence of “starter pack” lookbooks. “They all do some sort of version of this. Approachability, timeless, stylish and handsome but inoffensive look,” says Morris. This marketing playbook, popularised by brands like Aimé Leon Dore and followed by many others, has led to a lack of creativity and experimentation. As Morris puts it, “everything is good and nothing is great. So if everyone can dress well, then no one is actually cool.”What makes brands stand out over decades isn’t radical changes in design, but compelling storytelling and mythmaking. Morris argues consumers may not be loyal to today’s menswear brands in the long term if they're just buying into a trendy and easy to copy aesthetic. But Takanashi notes that for certain brands that are seen as authentically embracing this style, their best bet is stick to what’s worked: “I feel like in the case of brands like Aimé Leon Dore and Supreme, the long game for them is becoming a heritage label … they have such a distinct point of view that they will always have a core consumer.” As Morris puts it, “what brands should think about is just being themselves.”Additional resources:
Why Menswear Is Getting a Marketing Refresh | BoFCan Off-White Get Back on Track? | BoFHow the Streetwear Customer Is Evolving | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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The renowned grime MC and rapper Skepta knows that there’s no such thing as an overnight success. After the rapper launched his fashion brand, Mains, in 2017, it was put on pause after a split from his manufacturer before making a return to London Fashion Week last year. Progress, he believes, takes time and resilience.
"Like anything in the world, the best way to learn is to do it and fail,” he said. “I know that it’s not a short road … you have to be in it to win. And it could take one pair of shoes. It could take a hat, could take one bag … If you don't carry on trying and failing, you won't get there."
This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Skepta to discuss Mains’ revival, his philosophy of perseverance and why he refuses to follow conventional rules in the fashion industry.
Key Insights
Skepta’s love for fashion was sparked by his passion for underground music and the style he saw at garage events. “I'm getting turned away from clubs… and when I'm getting turned away, I'm looking in the queue and there's people wearing Versace, Moschino, Patrick Cox loafers,” he says. The way that clothes and music felt, tied together to shape his taste. “That was where I really fell in love with fashion. The aspiration of wanting to wear the clothes, but also listening to the music that you listen to when you wear the clothes."Skepta’s journey as a fashion customer, with a keen eye for garment construction and detail, led him to launch his own brand. "Years and years of experience of buying clothes and looking at stitches and the inside jackets, the panels, I just felt like I was experienced enough to give the tailoring expertise as well as the love and the true magical passion that's not taught in school. ... Paired with a great designer, Mikey Pearce, and team, it was almost like divine intervention for me to just do it."Skepta’s creative process is iterative. "With music, you can actually change the audio after it’s even out, but with clothes you definitely can’t, so until it’s out I'm always changing. I'm always adapting and figuring out,” he says. “I don't like putting boundaries on thought. I think we should always be able to adapt and change.”"I'm doing one show a year. Spring, summer or winter altogether. Boys and girls in my show, they're all wearing the same clothes." This creative freedom allows Skepta to fully enjoy the process, believing it's important to not take fashion too seriously. "It should be fun. And I see a lot of people that go into fashion and adhere to the rules that have been set, then they start having a bad time doing something that they love. That’s crazy to me."Associated Articles:
In London, Plasticine and Messy Dressing | BoFHow to Bring a Personal Touch to PR | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Luxury fashion remains an exclusive club, where leadership positions are often filled from within tight, familiar circles. Despite industry-wide commitments to diversity and inclusion, the sector continues to struggle with gender and racial diversity in its top creative roles. Many luxury companies still operate within networks that favour traditional backgrounds, making it difficult for new, diverse talent to break through.
“It's a role where I think people's unconscious biases really can come into play because whether or not they receive something as good design or bad design is going to be so much influenced by the person who told them that it's good design or bad design,” said BoF’s Luxury Editor Robert Williams.
This week on The Debrief, BoF Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sat down with Williams to discuss the structural barriers that keep women and minorities from ascending to these coveted positions. They explore how the industry’s patriarchal business models perpetuate these challenges, the influence of consumer expectations in driving change, and how mass brands like Uniqlo are beginning to shift the narrative by appointing creative directors from unconventional backgrounds.
Key Insights:
The role of the creative director in luxury fashion has traditionally been defined by a singular, authoritative voice that dictates trends and tastes, often imposing what is considered "right" or "wrong" in design. Williams explains that this model, which elevates the creative director as a gatekeeper of style, makes it challenging for those who don't fit the traditional mould of authority in fashion to rise to the top.“The creative director defined in a very traditional sense … is so much about imposing this authority from the top. And while that's not how everyone operates a brand anymore, … when you have that tradition, that makes it harder for people who don't fit the bill of what someone is used to seeing as a person of authority and in power to rise up.” Women in creative leadership face unique challenges, needing to prove their creative vision with commercial success. Williams explains, “Women have had to maybe back up their creative contributions with commercial results. And I think when you look at the women at the top of the luxury industry, you have a group of women who really know how to say something on the runway and say something with the brand. But then also really to back that up with products that women will want to buy and wear.” This dual expectation places added pressure on women creative directors, which may not be applied to their male counterparts.Luxury fashion remains a highly insular industry, where hiring and promotion often occur within exclusive networks that favour familiar faces and traditional backgrounds. “Many luxury companies still operate within a very exclusive network, which makes it difficult for new, diverse talent to break in,” Williams notes. “It's a very contacts and relationship driven industry, and so reinforcing diversity is quite tricky. If the people in positions of power don't have a really diverse group around them, it's going to be less and less likely that they're going to find out about an interesting talent, someone that they want to kind of cut into the action in terms of their studio.”Additional Resources:
Luxury Fashion’s Designer Diversity Problem Persists | BoFDo Mass Brands Need Creative Directors? | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Clare Waight Keller’s career in fashion has been defined by her versatility as a designer and desire to step outside her comfort zone. She started out specialising in knitwear at the Royal College of Art before taking on a role in knitwear at Calvin Klein, before moving on to Ralph Lauren. She returned to Europe to work at Gucci under Tom Ford, and then stepped into creative director roles at Pringle, Chloé and Givenchy. Last week, it was announced that she was becoming the creative director of Japanese clothing retailer Uniqlo, which is targeted at the masses, not the classes.
Seeing new challenges as an opportunity to learn and grow, has led Clare to make many unexpected decisions from the start of her career.
“Those moments when you are pushed to your boundaries and don't quite know how to navigate… bring a great sense of drive for me. I love the idea of being uncomfortable with what I'm working on because it makes me learn quickly,” she said. “I enjoy the process of change, and I guess that's why I've worked in so many different places.”
This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder Imran Amed sits down with Clare to discuss her varied career path and her experience working in American, Italian, British, French and now Japanese fashion companies and how this has shaped her outlook on the industry.
Key Insights
Growing up in Birmingham, England, Waight Keller was captivated by the vibrant subcultures she encountered. That influence led her towards art school, and eventually, fashion. “I distinctly remember standing at a bus stop, going to college, with punks, skinheads or goths — people who really expressed themselves through fashion and took it to a real sense of identity,” she said. “They just seemed like the most interesting people. I wanted to be part of that.”After working for predominantly male creative directors, Clare felt it was time to express her own perspective, leading her to the creative director position at Chloé in 2011. “There's such a sensibility that women have in fashion because you try it on yourself, you wear it, you feel it,” she said. “I'm putting together what I believe to be my point of view of fashion."Waight Keller’s move to Uniqlo marked a shift from working in the world of luxury to mass fashion, which has required some adjustment. “Understanding the scale was just extraordinary. In luxury fashion, you work on a much smaller scale, even at big brands,” she said. However, with this came new opportunities. “With that scale comes incredible access to innovation, amazing fabric mills, and quality.” Even as her career flourished, Waight Keller came to discover the inherent gender bias women face in the industry. “It's still fairly male-dominated in management and across the business side of fashion ... I had to make my family work around my career because even a season out in fashion can put you back a year, and people look at you differently.” With that, her advice to fellow female designers is not to “be afraid of a challenge and having to learn on the ground."Additional Resources
Do Mass Brands Need Creative Directors? | BoF The Logic Behind Givenchy's New Designer Appointment | BoFUniqlo Appoints Clare Waight Keller as Creative Director | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Shein has fundamentally changed the fashion market, challenging fast fashion giants that were not so long ago in the disruptor position themselves. Once the category's upstart, H&M now finds itself struggling to keep pace as Shein redefines consumer expectations with ultra-low prices, endless selection and lightning-fast production. In response, H&M’s new CEO has unveiled a strategy to target the elusive middle market, hoping to position the retailer as more affordable than Zara but higher-quality than Shein.
This week on The BoF Podcast, executive editor Brian Baskin sat down with Senior Sustainability Correspondent Sarah Kent and Retail Correspondent Cat Chen to delve into the contrasting paths of these two retail giants and what it means for the future of fashion.
“H&M has been stuck in the middle with kind of a muddled identity … It's trying to figure out how to differentiate itself,” said Chen. Meanwhile, Shein’s breakneck growth comes with a heavy environmental toll, raising questions about the industry’s efforts to reduce emissions.
“Shein’s growth is phenomenal, but its environmental impact has grown even faster than its sales… now outpacing all other large fashion companies,” Kent said.
Key Insights:
H&M’s CEO Daniel Ervér is focusing on a strategy to occupy the middle ground between ultra-budget brands like Shein and more premium fast fashion like Zara. The goal is to appeal to both ends of the market with a mix of affordable basics and higher-end pieces, as Ervér explained to Chen in her interview with the CEO. “[Ervér] said they were committed to this position of wanting to offer something to everybody.Shein’s rapid growth has turned it into fashion’s biggest polluter, surpassing even Inditex in emissions. The company’s production model, reliance on cheap polyester, and coal-powered manufacturing contribute heavily to its environmental impact. “Over the last three years, their emissions have tripled as their sales have grown hugely,” Kent explained. Shein’s rapid growth has turned it into fashion’s biggest polluter, surpassing even Inditex in emissions. The company’s production model, reliance on cheap polyester, and coal-powered manufacturing contribute heavily to its environmental impact. “Over the last three years, their emissions have tripled as their sales have grown hugely,” Kent explained. As Shein continues its rapid growth, the company faces increasing scrutiny from regulators and potential investors regarding its environmental and labour practices. But Shein is unlikely to face major restrictions on how it operates anytime soon. “The hand of regulation moves slowly, and so far, most companies are being asked to provide a bit more transparency,” Kent said. “No one's facing any real penalties for being the worst polluter at the moment.” Shein’s growth may be peaking, creating opportunities for competitors like H&M. The market is always evolving, allowing established brands to find ways to stand out. “We are at the end of the beginning for Shein and Temu. … And at the end of the day, there will always be new disruptors,” Chen shared.Additional resources:
H&M’s Big Bet on Fashion’s Elusive Middle Shein Emissions: Fashion’s Biggest Polluter?Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Fashion narrator Lyas is one of the most compelling and authentic fashion communicators to have arrived on the scene, and whose takes on fashion shows and editorials are incisive, honest and well-informed.
“I think we’ve lost the mindset of thinking that it’s possible to be creative and make money for the company, because the golden age of designers is over,” he says. “Now, every designer is disposable. It’s like musical chairs—every month, there’s someone leaving, someone coming.”
Lyas’s journey has been shaped by his belief in the emotional power of storytelling, which he sees as central to fashion communication. Using TikTok and Instagram to communicate his thoughts and opinions, his fashion roulette videos and witty runway dissections have captured the attention of hundreds of thousands of viewers. Recently, he has bemoaned the dilution of creativity across the fashion industry.
Key Insights:
Growing up in France and studying drama, Lyas was first drawn to the visual world filmmaking. Frustrated by the rigid criteria of the film industry, Lyas found freedom in fashion, where he could create personas and critique without fitting into predefined moulds. He connected with fashion insiders at parties, building his presence through social media and discovering a space that allowed his voice and persona to thrive. "I didn't find the sense of belonging in that cinema crowd, so I started going out with fashion people,” he said. “It became this way of creating this superstar persona at night and I fell in love with that."Lyas quickly noticed the gap between private opinions and public silence in the fashion world. He began voicing unfiltered critiques, challenging the industry's hypocrisy. This unapologetic stance led to temporary blacklists but also opened doors, proving the value of staying true to his voice. “I started just saying it like it is on my TikTok... the first Sabato de Sarno I really didn't like, and I think most of the industry did not like it, but no one wanted to say it, so I took the bullet."Lyas is critical of the corporatization of fashion, where creativity is often sidelined for profit. "We've lost the mindset of thinking that it's possible to be creative and make money for the company, " he said. “The golden age of designers is over. Now any designer is disposable. We've seen it, it’s like musical chairs."On advice, Lyas keeps it simple. “Have no fear. But it's very easy to say, but I think fear is the biggest issue for anyone's confidence. … Just be fearless and if you're scared of doing it, do it.”Additional Resources:
Commercialising the Zeitgeist: Crafting a Successful TikTok Strategy | BoFWhy Brands Are Inviting Customers on Influencer Trips | BoF Finding Fashion Consumers Beyond Instagram | BoFHosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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