Episoder
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The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?"
Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it!
THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.
Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in!
Here's a rundown of some key moments:
0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel.
2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing.
5:30 - Some interesting training history.
9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research.
10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance.
10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent.
12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach.
17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training.
20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport.
23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades!
24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers...
29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes.
32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes.
33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance.
36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen.
40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X.
44:00 - The best supplement for climbers?
45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation.
51:00 - Personalized nutrition
52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach.
54:50 - The power of Discipline.
58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals.
58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+?
59:50 - A few questions from listeners...
1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes?
1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same?
1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM)
1:08:45 - Nutrient timing.
1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments
1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel!
1:14:00 - Eric's final comments
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright © 2000â2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
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In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limitâor, perhaps, beyond limit!âproject boulder or route.
Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more.
RUNDOWN
3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing
4:15 - 1. The first âlittle, big thingâ is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence.
10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day.
14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags.
20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage.
26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing.
SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
32:13 - 6. Donât Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta.
39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta.
41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts?
45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you!
46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer...
51:03 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally.
52:28 - 12. Make sure youâre wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it!
55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time.
58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trustâŠAND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at youâŠand when to shut up and let you take care of business.
1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page.
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright © 2000â2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
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Mangler du episoder?
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One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game.
The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental!
While many athletes "shoot themselves in the footâ in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition â or even during the sports event itself! â a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to set the stage for peak performance.
Towards this end, I'm going to detail 8 so called "last-minute" things you can do (or not do) that will help set the stage for climbing your best when it counts most. The more of these items that you deliberately optimize, the better youâll sort of stack the deck for performing your best when it counts.
Support the TFC podcast...and amplify your training and performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition!
This month (Rock-tober) only, get 20% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST20 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Links to more Training For Climbing!
The Power of Pre-Climb Rituals >> 10 Does and Don'ts of Effective Redpointing >> How To Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing >>Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fasting. 2. The value of getting an occasional blood work-up to monitor how your health and performance-related biometrics change as a result of diet, training, and aging.This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music Remix of the Police
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when. 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk.This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music Remix of the Police
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing!
There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever!
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music: Remix of The Police
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes.
The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years.
Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics:
How to raise kid climbers...to be happy, healthy athletes...and, hopefully, pass on the gift of becoming a climber for life. How (and when) to stretch and train flexibility for climbing. Also, a pithy discussion of climbing injury trends. Potential benefits (and drawbacks) of ice baths (or cold plunges), intermittent fasting, and sauna use.This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".
This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.
We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:
What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season
How to carry a project over from one season to the next
The secret to being a successful route climber
Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training
The science of building route fitness
Why many climbers are training endurance wrong
So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and
some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals.One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine
approach to blood testingâŠwhich is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast.My expert guest joining us for this episodeâŠ.is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville
Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance.The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can
potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify
your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and
well-being.RUNDOWN
00:15 â T4C podcast mission statement
00:45 â The things we do to level up our performance
1:10 â Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance
1:35 â Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com)
2:30 â Use of blood test biomarkers
3:45 â Value for older athletes
4:10 â Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com
5:00 â Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham
5:30 â What is functional medicine: âMedicine 3.0â
9:30 â Preventative health care through your primary physician â The "Big 4 Killers"
11:20 â Pursuit of âoptimalâ rather than âaverageâ
14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc.
16:40 â âTreat the patient, donât treat the numbers!â
19:15 â Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count
22:25 â Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com
23:30 â More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB
31:45 â Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone â vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.)
35:00 â The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep.
37:10 â Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine
40:00 â The journey toward optimization.
47:02 â Considerations for female athletes â abnormalities to watch for and treat.
49:50 â Thyroid function and blood panels
53:00 â Hormone changes in women
55:00 â A brief mention of peptides
57:00 â Get the low-hanging fruitâŠby getting your sleep and nutrition on pointâŠand do some strength training every week.
1:01:00 â Final thoughts
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be!
No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing.
Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secrets to accelerating improvement and climbing your very best!"
I've got a lot of territory to cover in the next hour, so let's get started!
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best!
However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes?
Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and many more in this episode. Listen and learn how to make your climbing shoes perform better for you!
Reminder: T4C episode #97 provided a look into the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. Combined with today's podcast #99, these two episodes provide a comprehensive look into the quality of your four points of contact with the rock. If you want to climb better, then you must strive to optimize your purchase with each contact point.
RUNDOWN
00:20 - Introduction
1:30 - Building on podcast #97, my interview with Kevin Brown about the science of chalk and optimal chalk use.
2:00 - Now we look at the feet! How shoe design, fit, comfort, and price affect footwork and climbing performance.
4:00 - Podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15.
7:00 - Overview of shoe design, parts, and craftsmanship.
10:00 - Heel structure and performance.
16:10 - Downpointing and asymmetric shoes for high-performance sport climbing and bouldering. Details on the La Sportiva "PD #".
18:45 - Entry-level shoes versus high-performance fit.
20:50 - Why outdoor climbers likely need 2 or more different pairs of shoes....for optimal performance on different rock types and climbing styles.
22:00 - Lace-up shoes versus slip-on shoes.
27:15 - Lined versus unlined?
29:10 - How much should you "size down" your climbing shoes (compared to your approach shoe size)?
32:05 - Shoe fit for kid crushers! Tips to optimize performance and reduce risk of toe/foot injury.
33:20 - Shoe rubber, stickiness, and temperature effect on optimal rubber performance.
38:50 - Proper care tips for maintaining your shoe's performance and extending the life of the shoe...so hopefully you can get a couple of resoles out of each pair of new shoes.
40:20 - When to resole your shoes?
46:10 - Does the country a shoe is manufactured in tell us anything about the quality and performance of a shoe?
52:00 - Closing thoughts, and discussion about La Sportiva's new retail shoe in Boulder, CO.
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier.
You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym.
Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains!
Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels.
*** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). ***
In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset wonât get you up a climb if you canât hang onto the holds!
Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived âstickinessâ of the holds â to begin with, thereâs the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge factors in determining how holds feel and will work for a given move. Last but not least, thereâs your skin quality and the structure of your fingertips. Pulpy (fleshy) tips can deform around tiny rock rugosities to give a better grip on tiny holds and, similarly, skin thatâs got adequate moisture and elasticity will stick to holds better than thick, dry, callused skin which yields a glassy and slippery grip.
It's the latter topic of skin quality and specifically chalk-use to optimize grip that weâll explore today. To help shed some light on this topic, I've got Kevin Brown, co-founder and CEO of Friction Labs chalk, to download on us some of the science of chalk and skin performance.
So lean in and chalk up for this grip-enhancing episode of the T4C podcast!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Intro to skin performance and grip--what things affect the quality of your grip?
3:00 - Overview of chalk and the role of "dryness".
6:00 - The effect of humidity, personal skin quality, and chalk use as it relates to skin wear and climbing performance.
8:35 - Use of Collagen powder supplements to improve skin elasticity, strength, and recovery of damaged skin.
9:20 - Importance of making quality efforts on skin-hard boulders and routes--save skin by making just a few quality attempts over many quick, low-quality attempts.
10:00 - Are all chalks basically the same? Kevin reveals the vast differences in chalk formulations!
14:00 - What's the optimal amount of chalk to have on your fingers?
16:30 - How chalk products on the market vary. Are added drying agents helpful?
19:30 - Common contaminants in chalk...and how they adversely affect grip.
21:10 - The genesis of Friction Labs...and new product development.
22:00 - The utility of liquid chalks--who will benefit from it and how to use it for optimal skin performance while climbing.
24:00 - Difference uses of alcohol-containing chalk versus alcohol-free liquid chalk.
25:00 - Is "drier always better"? What are the pros and cons of various drying agents such as Dry Hands, Carpe, AntiHydral, etc.
28:00 - The importance of developing a personalized skin-care routine... Tips on washing chalk off skin after climbing...and moisturizing skin.
31:00 - How to dry out your chalk...if it gets wet from rain...or deep water soloing.
31:35 - Responsible use of chalk, tick marks, brushing practices, etc.
35:50 - Closing comments and coupon codes
*** Friction Labs special offer for T4C podcast listeners -- Save 15% at FrictionLabs.com with checkout code: T4C15 ***
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever!
In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January.
One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of consistent aerobic energy system training, especially for route climbers, and he provides details on important changes he's made to both his daily diet and sleep habits.
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Intro to the most transparent TFC podcast ever!
3:10 - The need to perform an end-of-season "gap analysis". What needs to be done to reach big goals in 2024?
7:37 - The importance of willpower! And one of my favorite quotes: "The will to prepare for success is more important than the will of success."
10:18 - Eric details his personal gap analysis -- a very transparent examination of the things he feels are holding him back.
15:42 - Breakdown of the 4 Action Items in Eric's winter training program.
21:20 - Intro to Eric's winter training plan
22:17 - Action Item #1: Train to become a stronger, more powerful climber on bouldery sequences. Eric provides rich detail on how he's employed twice weekly Kilter Board training to achieve this goal.
29:20 - Eric takes you through his typical Kilter Board workout....from warm up to cool down.
40:00 - Eric shares some of his Kilterboard videos on Instagram: @Kilter_ehorst -- Follow Eric's FA boulders on the Kilter Board app via his username: ehorst
40:45 - Action Item #2: Maintain climbing-specific and generalized aerobic fitness through the winter training season. Lots of important details here for route climbers.
46:05 - Pro climber Amity Warme's incredible 2023 climbing season, finger injury, and rehab protocol and comeback story. Read a full article with details here >>
Read the latest research summaries of daily collagen use >>
51:30 - Action Item #3: Drop a few pounds of body fat...and get back to my "fighting weight" of previous years. Listen to Eric's major dietary changes.
1:08:35 - Action Item #4: Improve my sleep habits...to optimize recovery, health, and wellness. Learn about Eric's interventions and data gathering in this important area.
1:16:06 - Closing comments: Learn one of the key traits of top pro climbers that Eric works with or knows.
1:18:00 - Dear listener, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life?
Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too!
Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest to level up your performance in climbing, career, and beyond!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Greetings and Happy New Year!
0:50 - Use the new year to evaluate your life across the board...and make course corrections!
3:20 - Introduction to Eric's "Mental Wings" concepts and strategies
5:02 - Overview of human performance -- YOU, dear listener, are far more powerful than you can possibly imagine!
12:30 - Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). International climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop >>
14:30 - 15 Mental Wings concepts and strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
16:30 - #1: Your quality of life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts
18:15 - #2: Human beings are the embodiment of unused potential.
19:00 - #3: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do.
21:10 - #4: Clarity of values and goals, and a clear purpose for living form the foundation for a life full of rich, transcending experiences.
22:10 - #5: Risk is a precursor to reward.
23:15 - #6: Almost anything is possible once you conquer fear.
26:12 - #7: Singular focus and indomitable persistence knows no limits.
27:30 - #8: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger.
29:55 - #9: A fit body potentiates a fit mind.
30:20 - #10: Life is subtleâsweat the small stuff!
33:47 - #11: Your future is largely determined in the brief moment between stimulus and response (in any activity).
35:15 - #12: Maintain a dynamic, evolving life process by reinventing yourself from time to time.
36:55 - #13: Enjoy this momentâthis moment is your life.
37:47 - #14: Unconditional love is the most powerful force in the universe.
38:20 - #15: In the final analysis, you are mostly self-made.
40:25 - Summary thoughts -- please share this podcast with a friend...or on your Social Media. (Thanks!)
42:00 - Send off!
A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".
This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it!
Lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. Iâll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the pastâŠand chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Welcome
0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt the performance gains
3:09 - Let's get started...and elevate our training and climbing!
3:55 - Mistake #1: Not having an intelligent plan for each training session.
5:40 - Mistake #2: Making every workout a competition with yourself.
9:40 - Mistake #3: "Crammingâ training before a weekend trip, competition, or longer road trip.
Learn about the performance nutrition used by Top Pros - Get 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
14:25 - Mistake #4. Training through injury.
Listen to previous injury podcast on the "perfect storm" for getting injured.
22:28 - Mistake #5: Following someone elseâs training plan (i.e. copy cat training)
25:35 - Mistakes #6: Training your strengthsâŠ.ignoring your weaknesses.
31:35 - Mistake #7: Training hard and smart, but failing to get adequate sleep and proper nutrition to support your training.
39:02 - Bonus...Mistake #8: Engaging a various acts of self-sabotage.
42:00 - Summary thoughts.
Please check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
43:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.
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In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.
I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Greetings
0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium
1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine
3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC.
DAY 1 (abridged)
7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl
7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers.
9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA)
10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers
11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom.
13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps?
15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers
17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders)
DAY 2 (abridged)
18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline
22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction
23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts
24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers
27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse
DAY 3 (abridged)
30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. Get it here >>
31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance
32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness
32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. Listen to Episode #22 first >>
33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance.
36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.
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What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year.
This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end!
Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending.
With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November.
Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND!
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Welcome message.
00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season!
2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins.
4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing there? What's your "super bowl"...that is, the most important project boulder or route?
8:42 - #2: Spend less time strength training and more time climbing! Over the coming weeks, taper off climbing-specific strength exercises and put down the heavy free weights until your next off-season.
12:25 - #3: Consider your body composition--is it currently optimal for climbing your best on steep boulders and long, overhanging routes? If not, what calorie-dense junk/pleasure foods can you reduce or eliminate until after send season is over? Consider running a few days per week to increase caloric expenditure and spin-up cardiovascular fitness (especially helpful for route climbers).
19:52 - Summary points
22:12 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
23:00 - LET'S GET THE SEND TRAIN ROLLING!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by The Police (Remixes)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Ericâs YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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