Episoder
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Karen is continuing her in-depth look at different fragrance families. This week, she’s taking a look at the misunderstood Chypre family. Created in 1917, the chypre family of fragrances has never been considered the best or most popular but has stood the test of time, and the family continues to grow with new subcategories being added year on year. In this episode, Karen details everything you need to know about this family of fragrances and explains why you might benefit from creating your very own chypre fragrance.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
The chypre fragrance was first created in 1917 by Francois Coty, who was inspired by the island of Cyprus. What he didn’t know at the time was how influential it would be and all of the offshoots it would create, as Karen explains. What exactly is a chypre fragrance and why are they so unique? Karen breaks down what notes go into a chypre fragrance and how they all work together. Oakmoss is one of the main ingredients in chypre fragrances but, due to it causing allergies, its usage has been heavily restricted. Karen gives details on other materials that can be used to create an oakmoss scent. There are numerous subcategories of chypre. Karen details the main subcategories, how to identify them, what materials go into them, and gives you some real-world examples that you can sample for yourself.BEST MOMENTS
“The interplay between the fresh, floral and earthly elements are what makes a chypre so fascinating.”
“The thing that really defines a chypre is the fresh notes in the base.”
“If you’re looking to make a fragrance that stands out from the crowd, then a chypre fragrance could be the way forward.”
EPISODE LINKS
Make a Natural Perfume Masterclass
Exploring Aromachemicals Second Chance
Perfume Book
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week Karen is continuing her series on fragrance families, looking at floral families. The largest and most varied family in fragrance production, florals have stood the test of time and are as popular today as they ever were. From key notes to the difference between soliflore and floral bouquets and a breakdown of some of the most popular notes, Karen covers everything you need to know about this famous family, and also, why they are so popular.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Florals are among the most popular fragrances in the world of perfume. Karen details the reasons behind this and how synthetic materials help creators keep up with demand. One category of floral fragrances are ‘Floral Bouquets’. This is a fragrance where no single scent stands out above the others. Karen explains the background to these scents and offers some examples for you to sample. In the 80’s it was ‘White Florals’ that were popular among consumers. Karen breaks down exactly what a white floral is and some of the classic fragrances that were inspired by them. Micheal Edward, and his fragrance wheel, categorise the subfamilies of florals and how they relate to each other in a unique way. Karen summarises his method and conclusions.BEST MOMENTS
“Floral fragrances are the most expansive and versatile family in perfumery”
“Keep in mind that fragrance classification is a guide, not a rule.”
“Every floral note can have a unique part to play, whether they are used as part of a main focus or a complex blend.”
EPISODE LINKS
Natural Isolates Masterclass
Make a Perfume Oil Masterclass
Materials Mastery
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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Mangler du episoder?
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This week Karen is starting a new mini series, looking at each of different fragrance families. And, to start, she’s looking at one of her personal favorites, Citrus. In this jam packed show Karen covers what materials go into a citrus fragrance, the right notes to add to make your scent last longer, key regulations to understand and the interesting history of citrus fragrances. And, on top of all of that, Karen also breaks down her step by step guide to help you create your very first citrus fragrance.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
What materials go into a citrus fragrance to give it that bright and uplifting quality? Karen breaks down the best materials to achieve a citrus fragrance and gives some top tips on experimenting with different variations of notes. Citrus notes will normally disappear on the skin within minutes, therefore, it is crucial to mix your fragrance with the right mid and base notes. Karen gives her recommendations for the best notes to make your fragrance last. Making a citrus fragrance, like any fragrance, requires research. Karen breaks down the fascinating history of citrus fragrances and gives you recommendations of modern fragrances that you can sample and begin to learn from. So, how do you actually make your own citrus fragrance? Karen explains the process step by step.BEST MOMENTS
“A well balanced eau de cologne can’t just rely on citrus notes, otherwise it will last for 10 seconds on the skin.”
“The beauty of a citrus fragrance lies in its simplicity, but achieving that can be a complex task.”
“Just because you’re using natural materials doesn’t mean your product can be used by anyone, they are still packed full of allergens.”
EPISODE LINKS
Make a Citrus Fragrance Masterclass
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week Karen is joined by Kelly Colman, an award winning product expert. After developing and selling her own cosmetics products, Kelly now helps other entrepreneurs find their niche and sell their products on Amazon. Surprisingly, most people don’t consider the possibility of selling on Amazon for various reasons, such as the high levels of competition or fear or altering the perception of their brand. However, as Kelly explains in this episode, there are masses of customers already on the platform waiting to buy your products, and she’s about to share with you the secrets to accessing them.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Kelly shares with Karen the details of her incredible career journey from dancer to salon owner to product developer and, finally, to where she is today. So many people have developed products and are selling them online, but have never considered the possibility of selling on Amazon. Kelly breaks down what the first research steps are that people should consider before taking this leap. Selling on Amazon isn’t as easy as just uploading your product and setting the price. There are hundreds of factors to consider, and most of these, people are unaware of. Kelly explains to Karen the basics of a sales strategy and how you can target the right customers. With the excessive number of products already on Amazon, how do you stand out? Even with a perfect sales strategy you still have to differentiate yourself from the competition. Kelly shares her top tips on how to rise to the top.BEST MOMENTS
“There’s a really big piece of cake online for sellers and it’s accessible to everyone.”
“People want perfection out of the gate, but if you haven’t done the research and it doesn’t sell, you’ve lost so much money and time.”
“Amazon isn’t just about selling, it is also a great tool to direct customers to your brand website.”
EPISODE LINKS
Kelly’s Instagram
Kelly’s Website
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE GUEST
Kelly Colman is the founder of New CID Cosmetics, a multi-award-winning brand she built from the ground up before selling it in 2018. An entrepreneur and industry expert, Kelly now runs One Winning Product, where she helps others create and launch successful products through Amazon and beyond. With a deep understanding of today’s fast-paced market, Kelly is passionate about empowering the next generation of entrepreneurs to turn their ideas into thriving businesses.
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week on the show, Karen is talking to Kyle Fearn of Redolescent Fragrances. Kyle created his first fragrance as a way to make an emotional connection with his boyfriend who was travelling across the world. This creation started Kyle on a journey of developing fragrances that would tell a story which people could integrate into their lives. Focusing on wellbeing and mental health, Kyle’s fragrances have had an incredibly positive impact on the lives of many. And, when his grandmother died, Kyle saw a unique opportunity to turn his grief into love through his most bold creation.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
During his time at university Kyle’s then boyfriend was moving to Japan to study. Determined to continue their special connection across the globe, Kyle was drawn to the idea of perfume. He explains to Karen how this idea led to the creation of his first fragrance and his future career. Kyle was suffering from PTSD, having an average of 10 flashbacks a day. One day he climbed a mountain with his mother and, when he reached the summit, he was overcome with peace. He tells Karen how this inspired him to create scents that he hoped would create that sense of peace in others. Toward the end of his life Kyle’s grandfather, David, was suffering with Alzheimer's. When his wife was taken into hospital David received a phone call to say she wouldn’t make it through the night. This led to Kyle creating his fragrance “What Time Will My Wife Die?” A fragrance designed to create a conversation around loss. Karen and Kyle discuss the idea of using scent as a wellbeing tool and a functional fragrance and how choosing the right scent can vastly affect your mood and create a positive feeling within you.BEST MOMENTS
“Perfume falls between art and science and the most interesting things happen between the intersection of the two.”
“Historically, functional fragrances were laundry detergent and bathroom cleaners. But, they can be, and are, so much more now. They are powerful wellbeing tools.”
“Smell forms an integral part of early memory structure. If utilised correctly, this can be a powerful tool to promote wellbeing.”
EPISODE LINKS
Redolescent Website
Redolescent Instagram
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE GUEST
Kyle Fearn is the perfume maker and owner of Redolescent. Kyle has a degree in chemistry from the University of Cambridge, where he found his passion at the intersection of science and art. His mission? To tell stories through scent. Alongside fragrance, Kyle finds joy in pottery and onstage performances. He lives in the midlands with his husband and two dogs.
Redolescent stems from the idea that scents possess the power to weave stories and rekindle memories. Kyle envisioned fragrances that resonated deeply, serving as companions throughout your day and accompanying pivotal moments in life. He also saw the potential to use fragrance as a platform to discuss other topics, such as mental health. Kyle’s desire to bridge the gap between fragrance and emotional connection gave rise to Redolescent.
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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On this week's show, I'm joined by Ana Kaplan of Kaplan Communications, a PR company that works with beauty and holistic companies. Ana worked for a large PR company but increasingly felt like they didn’t match her values. So, during COVID-19, she took the brave move of leaving them behind and setting up her own company that has the unique approach of blending PR and marketing with holistic wellbeing. In this interview with Karen, Ana discusses the importance of creating stories, the all-important ‘hook’ and the crucial difference between PR and Marketing.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
How do we know when a new venture is the right path to follow? Leading on from Ana sharing her story of how she began her company, we discuss the idea of following your heart and the green flags to look out for. Ana moved from working for a large PR firm to setting up her own. She talks about the lessons she learned from the big firm and how they have shaped her philosophy on both her work and selecting the clients she chooses to work with. What is the difference between PR and marketing? Ana explains, giving examples, so that you can organise and be efficient. ‘The Hook’ is one of the most important aspects of creating a piece of modern marketing. But what is a hook?, what makes a good one?, and how does the approach change for different types of media? Ana explains.BEST MOMENTS
“When things feel natural and fluid, that’s how you know it’s meant for you.”
“Are your goals coming from a place of ego or from alignment of where we want to be in the world?”
“When you're writing a PR story make sure you’ve done your research on who you are sending it to, don’t just cut and paste.”
EPISODE LINKS
Website: https://www.kaplan-communications.com/about
Yin Yoga: https://thepoweryogaco.com/hybrid-plugin/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kaplancommunications/
https://www.instagram.com/ana.stasia.maria/VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE GUEST
Ana Kaplan is a PR specialist focused on supporting wellbeing and beauty brands; she is also a yin yoga practitioner.
Ana holds space for healing yin yoga sessions incorporating galactic reiki to re-calibrate the nervous system as one melts into a deep meditative relaxed state.
From a young age Ana has always been attracted to spirituality and helping people holistically. The benefits of practising yin yoga has created an awareness of a different quality of being which she weaves into her unique PR approach.When she works with clients, Ana harnesses an intuitive edge to deliver valuable and recognised results. By working in alignment through her bespoke PR services, she is able to share her knowledge for all to benefit from her unique and effective PR philosophy.
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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Get your calculators, beakers and bottles ready because this week Karen is tackling the often talked about subject of perfume math, or more simply, the basic calculations involved in creating and scaling up perfume formulations. The idea of perfume math can fill most first timers with dread, especially when considering ratios, scaling up and concentration equations. But, Miss. Gilbert is here to give you the easiest math lesson of your life as she once and for all simplifies perfume math.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
You've got your materials measured out, you’ve made your accords, but now you want to scale up or reproduce that scent. This is the part of perfume making that can stump a lot of people. But, Karen has created a spreadsheet to help you. She breaks down what her spreadsheet can do and how to use it. Understanding percentages is essential for creating safe and consistent perfumes. But it’s easy to become stuck when you want your perfume to smell great but also add up to 100%. Karen shares her insights on how to tackle this problem. Getting the ratio of your materials correct is key to making sure your scents blend well, but it can be a daunting aspect to learn. Karen shares some of the many tools to help you understand ratios. Complying with regulations and allergy needs requires complex calculations. But, as Karen explains, you might be worrying about something that isn’t essential to your production scale.BEST MOMENTS
“There’s a misconception that you have to be a math genius to make perfume.”
“With practice, focus and the right tools you can master these skills without becoming a math expert.”
“A well balanced ratio ensures that fragrance components work together harmoniously.”
EPISODE LINKS
Perfume Calculations Spreadsheet - Use Coupon Code to get this for free: PODCAST-FS
Episode on Diluting
Episode on Jean Carles
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week’s show is inspired by a question Karen received from one of her listeners - “Can you give me your top tips on how to overcome the overwhelm of starting perfume making?”
This is a problem that most first timers encounter. That initial adrenaline rush of creating something new can easily be dampened when you start to dive into the world of perfume making and see just how big it is. But fear not, Karen is here to guide you through her top tips, from starting small to building a support network, so that you can tackle the art of perfume making and become a master.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
People can become easily seduced by the appeal of something new and exciting. Karen details what is actually happening to the chemicals in your brain during this time and how you can harness this to your benefit. When you're in a structured environment like a classroom it can feel easy to create a scent, however, when you're back at home on your own you suddenly find yourself without a plan. Karen breaks down how to create a simple plan you can stick to to avoid getting lost in the process. It’s natural to want to jump to the end and create your magnum opus at the first attempt. However, this will only lead to frustration. Karen explains why creating simple goals is key to the process of becoming a master. One aspect that can cause great overwhelm is the state of your workspace. Karen talks about the importance of not just having a dedicated workspace but also having it organised and fluid so that it works for you.BEST MOMENTS
“The main thing that is going to make your career is consistent progress. Never stop moving forward.”
“Every mistake you make is an opportunity to improve your skills.”
“Engaging in continuous learning is a great way to combat fear."
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week Karen is talking to Anne Onwusowulu, an alumni of Karen’s Artisan Perfume Mastermind course. Anne is the founder of fragrance company House of Purple Rose and, along with her husband John, runs a second company, the Skin and Hair Manufacturing Hub. However, both of Anne’s companies, and all the services they offer, were born out of personal tragedy or challenges she faced on her entrepreneurial journey. In this interview with Karen, Anne inspires as she details the way in which she took every challenge and turned it into an opportunity.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
When Anne moved into her new house she found that the open plan nature of it led the smells of food to drift all through the house. She wanted to overcome this problem and started to research candles and diffusers; what she found, however, led her to set up her company, House of the Purple Rose. When Anne tragically lost her mother, the stress she experienced from this led her to have problems with her skin. Determined to do something about it she went from trying a multitude of different skin care products to launching her own range. When Anne started House of the Purple Rose she found it impossible to source suppliers that would give her small quantities of materials, as most demanded orders in the thousands. Once again, Anne took this problem and saw an opportunity and formed the Skin and Hair Manufacturing Hub. Another of the many services that Anne’s companies offer is to formulate a product for indie brands. She talks about this process and some of the brands she has helped to launch.BEST MOMENTS
“People don’t realise the high level of technical skill involved in creating skin care products with a scent.”
“When creating a fragrance for skin care the goal is to keep it small so that the notes don’t clash.”
“Everyone needs to take notice of regulations, it is the best thing you can do for your clients.”
EPISODE LINKS
House of Purple Rose Website
House of Purple Rose Instagram
Skin and Hair Manufacturing Hub Website
Skin and Hair Manufacturing Hub Instagram
Skin and Hair Manufacturing Hub YouTube
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE GUEST
Anne Onwusowulu is a seasoned cosmetic chemist and perfumer with over a decade of experience in the beauty industry. She is the founder of the House of Purple Rose, a renowned skincare and home fragrance brand. In 2021, Anne and her husband launched the Skin and Hair Manufacturing Hub (SHMH), where she serves as the creative and scientific leader.
Anne's extensive background as a cosmetic chemist, herbalist, and aromatherapist has enabled her to create successful products for independent brands. Her passion for discovering and blending the finest ingredients drives her work. Anne is dedicated to making high-quality beauty and home fragrance products accessible to everyone, leading pioneering changes in the industry.
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week on the show Karen is joined by Michael Paul from Day 3 Fragrances. From childhood Michael was fascinated by magic. Supported by his father, he became a professional magician and toured the world. However, he would always turn to his hobby of perfumery when he was stuck. In time he realised that magic and perfumery were one and the same. During COVID his ability to perform magic ceased, and so his daughter inspired him to start a new form of magic ...perfume making.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
During Covid Michael's ability to travel and perform magic shows was taken away from him. It was during this time that his daughter inspired him to take his perfume ‘hobby’ seriously. Michael talks about letting go of his fears and taking the leap into a new world. From an early age, Michael was fascinated by magic. When he was stuck with a magic problem he would turn to perfumery as an escape. However, he soon realised that magic and perfumery shared many commonalities, some of which he discusses here. Michael has no relationship with his biological mother. When he met his wife, her mother began to treat Michael as her own son, so touched by this Micheal created his first perfume in her honour. He tells the story of how this launched his company. The rise in the number of artisan perfumers has led to a rise in the number of online reviewers, especially on youtube. Michael talks about the positives and negatives of this trend and how the customer always reacts differently to the reviewers.BEST MOMENTS
“There’s something to be said for telling yourself to stop making excuses and to just start.”
“Being able to tell the story of your perfume tells the customer so much more than if they just read the list of ingredients.”
“Break the rules. But know them first.”
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Day 3 Fragrances
Day 3 Fragrances Instagram
Michael Paul
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE GUEST
Michael Paul is a recipient of the prestigious Art and Olfaction Golden Pear award, and the creative force behind the viral new fragrance house, Day Three Fragrances.
Before his transition into the perfume industry, Michael garnered acclaim as a world-renowned close up magician. Today, he uses the principles and philosophies learned from his time as a performer to shape his thoughts on the art of perfumery.
Thanks to his unique approach to creative perfumery, Michael Paul has been featured in "Profiles in American Perfumery", and was invited to speak at the 2024 Experimental Scent Summit in Portugal. This year, he was chosen to create a "Special Edition" perfume for the international ScentXplore fragrance convention in New York City, where he will also be a featured speaker.ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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In this week's episode Karen is joined by Jaclyn Bellomo, a cosmetic industry professional with over a decade of experience in regulatory compliance. In the USA, up until now, the FDA has managed and maintained all fragrance industry regulations. However, the biggest overhaul in these regulations is about to occur with the introduction of MOCRA. But these new regulations don’t just impact companies selling from the USA, but also companies selling into the USA. So, what is MOCRA, why is it being implemented and what does it mean to you? Find out on this week's show
KEY TAKEAWAYS
An overhaul like this does not happen without a great need for it. Jaclyn breaks down where the gaps are in the current FDA regulations and how MOCRA will fill these in. One of the major changes that will come with MOCRA is how the ‘responsible person’ protocol works. Jaclyn explains the new system and how it will apply to companies based both in and out of the US. Jaclyn addresses the most significant changes to the new MOCRA system, adverse events. With examples, she breaks down what adverse events are and how these changes will affect you. Safety substantiation is another aspect that will be given a complete overall with MOCRA, Jaclyn provides an in-depth overview of what the new system will look like.BEST MOMENTS
“It's always a good idea to get feedback from your customers, but even more so now as you can use this feedback for evidence.”
“If you don’t comply with MOCRA, there are real world consequences.”
“If you have a small artisan brand, working from home, one of the new requirements is that you have a learning period.”
EPISODE LINKS
www.registrarcorp.com
KarenGilbert15 – code for your listeners to use to get 15% off our services
Jaclyns E-mail
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE GUEST
Jaclyn Bellomo is a cosmetic industry professional with over a decade of experience in technical formulation, regulatory compliance, product development, and brand management. Jaclyn has spent the majority of her career in the private sector working with multinational brands, specializing in formulations for the beauty and personal care industry from concept to counter. Jaclyn is active on several committees across the industry that focus on education and compliance to ensure there is continued support for the cosmetic
industry. In addition, Jaclyn works closely with our Cosmetri Product Manager and cGMP software to help streamline R&D processes, update compliance, and support customers in improving their current working operations.
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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On this very special one year anniversary episode of the Perfume Making Podcast, Karen is joined by Micheal Edwards, author and founder of Fragrances of the World and author of "Fragrance Legends" and his latest book "American Legends"
Micheal, who has worked in the fragrance industry for over 4 decades is the creator of one of the first classification systems for commercial fragrances, which is still widely used today. Having classified more than 55,000 fragrances he is a walking, talking encyclopaedia of all things perfume. In this fascinating interview with Karen, Michael shares his life story, his philosophy to his work and an incredibly insightful history on the evolution of scent.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Historically, perfume brands described their scents differently, without a common language. Noticing this, Micheal set about creating a system that all brands could use. He outlines this process. Michael's classification system began as a labour of love. However, concerned that the amount of work he was doing was not creating an income, he approached department stores with a copy of his guide. He tells the story of how this was the beginning of his incredible journey. Due to the birth of the artisan & niche perfume industry the amount of scents released each year has risen from 300 to over 25,000. Micheal talks about the challenges his team has faced in continuing to classify these scents as the numbers rise. Michael's in-depth knowledge of scent places him as an historian also. He gives an overview of scents from the 1800’s and how consumer trends today are being influenced by early creations.BEST MOMENTS
“The problem with perfume is that it was fascinating, but frustrating until we created a universal language.”
“Women’s fragrances are described as romantic, men’s fragrances are described as macho. It’s total nonsense, but that is the way the industry likes it.”
“The problem with old classifications was that they were linear, there was no link between different notes. That needed to change.”
EPISODE LINKS
https://www.fragrancesoftheworld.com/AmericanLegends
Wikiparfum
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week on the show Karen is joined by Natalie Napoleon, a world renowned visual branding strategist and product photographer with over 25 years of experience. An expert at creating strong, unique visuals for brands, Natalie is always asked by indie brands “How can I compete with the big companies?” Luckily, that’s where Natalie’s passion lies. In this interview with Karen, Natalie is going to reveal her deepest secrets so that you, and your brand, can stand out and stand tall next to the giants of the industry.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Most small companies don’t have the marketing budgets of the big hitters and this can create the perception that they can’t create impactful marketing campaigns. However, Natalie explains that money is not the boundary that people think it is and shares some tips on how you can create impactful images on a budget. Why is visual branding so important? Natalie shares her 7 key points on why it is so, including the ability to create brand recognition and an emotional connection with your audience. Creating a strong brand is so much more than just taking professional images. Natalie breaks down the elements that she delivers in her training course, such as how to build a consistent style, create a visual story and a repeatable system. The number one mistake people make is getting the product right and then thinking about branding. Natalie and Karen discuss the importance of making sure your branding is in place from day one, how to evolve it and how to engage your customers in that journey.BEST MOMENTS
“Regardless of the size of your company or the strength of your product, it’s your visual branding that sets you apart.”
“75% of consumers make judgements on a company's credibility based on their visual assets.”
“Images have what the written word doesn't - the ability to communicate complex ideas quickly and effectively.”
The Shot Vault Coupon Code: Enter PERFUME500 at checkout for $500 off
Natalie’s Instagram
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE GUEST
Natalie Napoleon is an in-demand marketing, advertising, and celebrity photographer who (over the span of her nearly 25 year career) has worked with people like Prince Albert of Monaco, Leslie Odom Jr., and Arnold Schwarzenegger and brands like Microsoft, Google, and OstomySecrets.
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week on the show Karen is joined by Liz Moores, founder of Papillon Perfumery. When Liz started her brand she was taking a huge gamble. Self-taught, inexperienced and jumping into an already heavily populated marketplace, Liz’s view was “I’ve got nothing to lose.” If her venture didn’t work out, she was prepared to sell her initial batch of fragrances at a car boot sale to recoup her investment. However, after some early positive reviews, Liz found great success and her brand has grown from strength to strength. In this interview with Karen, Liz details her unique approach to business and perfume making, how to deal with rumours and gossip and inspires you to take a leap of faith.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Like most perfumers, Liz was drawn into setting up her own business through her love of fragrance. After some initial high-praising reviews from bloggers, she was approached by retailers who wanted her perfume. She talks about how this early success has influenced her overall approach to business. Setting up your own business can be daunting, but it can also give you incredible freedom. Liz talks about how she embraced that freedom with her marketing and creations and how ‘being naive’ enough to do this has led to her success. In agreement with Karen, Liz believes that it is essential to have a strong story behind any scent you are creating. She details her process in creating stories and why, sometimes, it is essential to take a step back and not rush the process. Karen and Liz discuss how the perfume industry has exploded over the last ten years as perfumery has turned from an artform to a consumer trend. How this has flooded the market with thousands of perfumes and how you can still stand out in the market if you have the right approach.BEST MOMENTS
“Create fragrances that you love yourself, everything after that is a bonus.”
“If you don’t have a strong story all you’re doing is chucking materials together and there’s no guarantee that the process will work.”
“It is crucial, as an artisan perfumer, to forge strong relationships with your suppliers and customers. Your reputation is everything.”
EPISODE LINKS
Papillon Perfumery Website
Papillon Perfumery Instagram
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week on the show Karen is giving a history lesson on the life and work of Jean Carles. Founder of the first ever perfumery school, today known as the Givaudan, and the father of the most influential method of perfume making, his influence is still felt far and wide in the perfume industry today. Jean Carles lived an incredible life, created some of the industries most iconic scents and influenced some of the great perfumes of all time. In this episode, Karen takes you through his life's work and gives you a valuable insight into the now legendary ‘Jean Carles Method.’
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Jean Carles had both a unique approach to creating perfumes and to teachings. He is the father of many iconic scents as well as the teacher of many prolific perfumeres. Karen details some of his greatest creations and influences. Jean Carles developed a revolutionary method for perfume creation based on a systematic approach to understanding raw materials. Karen breaks down his method step by step. His method for creating accords was also considered to be groundbreaking. Whilst complex, it is an incredible tool for you to understand. Karen gives an overview of his method and principles. The final part of Jean Carles’ method is that of constructing a fragrance, it is known as the pyramid method, which is creating a fragrance with base notes, heart notes and top notes. Karen gives examples of this method and how to implement it.BEST MOMENTS
“The Jean Carles method of creating accords is a meticulous and structured approach that will provide a deep understanding of how different materials blend together.”
“Jean Carles’ systematic approach to perfumery and his innovative techniques remain influential in guiding both new and seasoned perfumers in their craft.”
“It’s recommended to learn the Jean Carles method but it is also essential for you to learn and adjust based on the materials that you are using and the type of fragrance you are creating.”
EPISODE LINKS
Material Mastery
William Kaufman Book
The Jean Carles Method
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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Karen is in the process of writing a new book on the many challenges that await those who want to create perfumes or set up their own perfume business. Inspired by this, Karen has decided to go over eight of the most crucial points in this week's episode. Looking at some of the myths of the perfume industry, such as a need for a chemistry degree or the need for industry validation, as well as the huge amount of knowledge you must learn, time management and imposter syndrome, Karen separates fact from fiction and shares her invaluable tips on how to overcome the beginners challenges.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
As with most careers, perfumers seek validation from the wider industry, especially when starting out in their careers, and this lack of validation can make you feel like an outsider, however, Karen explains that validation does not equate to success. When you step into a large industry like the fragrance industry it is natural to start out feeling like you’re not good enough. Karen talks about this and the bigger problem of imposter syndrome, and how you can overcome these feelings. There are hundreds of materials that you can use to create your scents and the thought of learning and memorising them all can be a daunting one. However, Karen is here to reassure you that by working in artisan perfumery, you really don’t need to memorise all that knowledge from day one. Time management is a huge challenge when you dive into a new career. Karen breaks down her top tips for achieving effective time management.BEST MOMENTS
“Focus on your craft and your unique journey. Remember, that many renowned perfumers have succeeded without the industry stamp of approval.”
“Fragrance creation is deeply personal, it’s like creating a piece of art. When someone criticises your work it can feel like a personal rejection.”
“Feel the fear and do it anyway.”
EPISODE LINKE
Materials Mastery
Mindset Magic
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week on the show Karen is joined by one of her Artisan perfumery mastermind alumni, Earl Williams, founder of ESW Perfume Bar. Through Earl’s unique business he creates bespoke scents for private clients as well as hosting pop up perfume bars at public and private events. But what really sets Earl apart is his determination and drive to keep moving forward no matter how many times the chips are stacked against him. In this interview with Karen, Earl shares his journey which will inspire you to keep moving forward and keep learning so that tomorrow, your dreams can come true.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Earl details his journey in the fragrance industry and how his promising start was cut short by Covid but, instead of giving up, he decided to scale up. When Earl launched his business he was sure that he was offering the right products to the right people but, this confidence only came after a lot of preparation work, a process he outlines here. A chance meeting at an event led Earl to open his business into a new area. He discusses the way he approached this opportunity and why you should be open to exploring new avenues. Having a unique business model is one thing but having your own style is what sets you apart. Earl talks about the journey he embarked upon to find his own unique style.BEST MOMENTS
“Before you put something out into the world, make sure you’re ready. You’ll achieve nothing if you rush the process.”
“Something that feels difficult today will feel easy tomorrow if you just keep learning and growing.”
“If you don’t take the opportunities when they are presented to you, you’ll never move forward.”
EPISODE LINKS
ESP PerfumeBar Website
ESP PerfumeBar Instagram
ESP PerfumeBar Tik Tok
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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As regular listeners will know, one of Karen’s favorite materials is sandalwood, that’s why she’s genuinely excited to welcome Sophie and Vanessa from Quintis on the show this week. Certain varieties of sandalwood become endangered over the years, so, 30 years ago, Quintis decided to create new plantations so that sandalwood could thrive. In this interview with Karen, the ladies talk about all things sandalwood from the therapeutic benefits, the growing and harvesting procedures and why, with the right approach, sandalwood will never be endangered again.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
As well as producing an incredible scent, sandalwood also has some amazing therapeutic benefits, such as anti-aging. Vanessa breaks down these benefits and the research behind them. Vanessa outlines the history of sandalwood, its importance as an export for Australia and why, 30 years ago, Quintis decided to create plantations which, today, total over 4 million trees. Sophie discusses the importance of having strong relationships with the team that grow and harvest the sandalwood and how this creates transparency and trust with their clients. Sandalwood was once endangered and Quintis are determined to make sure that never happens again. Sophie discusses the company's approach to making sure that sandalwood will be sustainable for the future.BEST MOMENTS
“Sandalwood has the same effect on the brain as meditation. It has the ability to calm you and reduce anxiety.”
“You have to make sure you are honest with your clients so they can be honest with their customers.”
“Sandalwood has an incredible ability to adapt to the other ingredients it blends with to give a wide range of scents.”
EPISODE LINKS
Quintis Website
Quintis Instagram
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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This week on the show Karen is joined by one of her Artisan Perfumery Mastermind Alumni, Nicole Brannan. Nicole has had a lifelong passion for fragrance and perfume which started when she was gifted a perfume making kit as a child. After a life of working in other creative areas, her passion for perfume never died but, it was during covid, when she found herself at a crossroads, that she decided to attend Karen’s class, and her life changed forever. In this interview with Karen, Nicole gives a detailed account of her journey over the last 3 years and will inspire you to do what she did….follow your dream.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Nicole recounts her journey which started with her beloved childhood perfume making kit, and how, during covid, Karen’s course reignited those memories which ultimately led her to launching her own perfume business. Nicole explains the theory behind her workshops and how they are designed to encourage mindfulness and harmony in the participants, as well as bringing people closer to scent. Nicole finally took the step to launch her own perfume business once covid hit and she found herself to be desperately unhappy. She details her process to Karen, the challenges she faced and how she ultimately overcame them. Karen and Nicole discuss the importance of obtaining objective feedback on your work, where to get it from and how, if done correctly, it can help you to grow.BEST MOMENTS
“Being creative is not only fun, but it releases positive endorphins which helps to reduce stress and make you feel better.”
“If you’re thinking about doing something, just go for it. If you have time to put barriers up, you’ll find a reason not to do it.”
“Start small, test your market, test your audience. That's the best way to grow anything.”
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
EPISODE LINKS:
Elix Fragrance Website
Elix Fragrance Instagram
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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Karen is away on a yoga retreat this week and it has got her thinking about how important it is to incorporate mindfulness practices into perfume making. In this episode, Karen explains how adopting mindfulness practices can open up new avenues for creativity and expression in your work, as well as improve your mental and physical health. Sharing techniques tailored for perfume makers, Karen is here to guide you into the world of mindfulness practices so that you can achieve your full potential.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Karen breaks down the science behind mindfulness and creativity, how we process both creativity and emotions and why practicing mindfulness techniques can enhance the key areas of our brain. Karen walks you through a breathing technique that not only calms your mind, but engages your sense of smell, and shares the advantages of practicing this technique prior to any practical work. Are you conscious of how your workspace makes you feel? Karen talks about how you can incorporate mindfulness into your workspace to help improve your creativity and shares her top tips for doing this. Being mindful in your working practices is key, but being mindful about your mindfulness is really what helps you to grow. Karen talks about the importance of being present in the moment and evaluating and refining your mindfulness practices.BEST MOMENTS
“Mindfulness practices help calm the mind, clear mental clutter and improve our focus.”
“By integrating mindfulness practices to your routine, you’re going to significantly enhance your ability to work with and understand a variety of different scented materials.”
“It’s too easy to get to the end of the day and think that you haven’t achieved anything, but if you spend even a few minutes reflecting, you’ll be amazed and what you realise.”
VALUABLE RESOURCES
Getting Started Guide
Artisan Perfumery Mastermind
EPISODE LINKS
The Scent Shift
ABOUT THE HOST
Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.
Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.
With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques.
Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.
CONTACT DETAILS
Website
Instagram
Facebook
YouTube
Email
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