Episodes
-
F is for Fringe Festival. In this episode, I talk with Australian clown and actor Jasper Foley about how he (and his team) are bringing the famed international theatre and performing arts festival back to the City of Light. Paris.
Also:
What's life like as a trained clown in Paris?
Here's the link to donate and support the upcoming Fringe Festival: https://whydonate.com/fundraising/paris-fringe-festival-fundraiser Here's the link to get tickets to the show, Sep 9th to 13th, 2026: https://www.parisfringe.fr/ Here's the link to the episode of Spilling the Beans where I was the guest: https://open.spotify.com/episode/39Us4GtDIFjyn6jCHHAAwU?si=ZkiFrcaeSsqxXus3SFaXVA&nd=1&dlsi=4774773ed9ee413c
What happens at the famed Ground Control in Paris?
And how can you support the arts in Paris, even if you're not here?
The music is from Pres Maxson.This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
E is for Embassy. And in this case, I'm talking about the US Embassy's Garden Party to mark 250 years of Independence with a capital I.
And guess what: I was there! So this podcast is just me, Oliver Gee, talking about my night among the Americans for their Fourth of July bash.And here's the video from INSIDE the US ambassadorial residence that I mentioned in the show, from a year ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygYRLRg--70
The music is from Pres Maxson.
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
Missing episodes?
-
It's sweltering in Paris right now and life is unbearable for many. Not least for those who live under the zinc rooftops. The whole city comes to a standstill in these heatwaves, but those in the rooftops suffer the most, perhaps.
So, while The Earful Tower puts business as usual aside like everyone else, we figured we could take a look back at an episode about another rooftop: The domed cupolas of Paris.
Today's episode is a segment from an episode in early 2022, where I interviewed an American woman called Sarah who lived in such a dome. Here's the chat. And here are some dome pics from outside and inside.
This episode is brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in Montmartre, the Marais, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are now award winning, and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson
-
Every year or so, Lina and I make a children's book. Sophie in Paris is the fifth. And every time, once the books arrive, we hit the streets of Paris to deliver them ourselves. Bookshops, museums, all of it. This episode is about that part. Not the writing, not the illustrating, but the launching - which we find to be one of the most enjoyable bits. The envelopes, the deliveries, the doors we knock on.
So, for our second new episode this week, we're focusing on D for Deliveries.
Five books in, the operation has grown. This new book, Sophie in Paris, has been our biggest yet, and Lina and I sit down to talk through what that actually looks like from the inside.
Get Sophie in Paris: theearfultower.com/shop
Find the book in a shop near you: Where to buy our children's books in Paris
-
D is for Delon, Alain Delon. Author Edward Chisholm is back on the podcast, this time talking about his new book Murder in Paris '68.
We recorded this one on location - sitting on the quai by the Seine, directly beneath the Quai des Orfèvres, the famous Paris police headquarters that has watched over the city's darkest crimes for centuries. Fitting, then, that we were there to talk about one of France's most explosive unsolved murders.
In 1968, a body was discovered on the outskirts of Paris and identified as Stevan Marković, the former bodyguard and close associate of the enigmatic film star Alain Delon. What began as a simple murder case quickly spiralled into a full-blown political scandal, drawing in actresses, gangsters, and high-level politicians.
British author Edward Chisholm, the author of the bestselling memoir A Waiter in Paris, has written the definitive account of the affair. His new book takes us into the heart of an era and into the inner world of Alain Delon himself, a world of gangsters, violence, and underworld Parisian conspiracies, where everyone possessed their own cold elegance and charisma.
We talked about the book, the Marković Affair, and of course... Alain Delon.
The music is from Pres Maxson.
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
New episode: Let's take a deeper dive into the 17th arrondissement of Paris. You've hopefully already heard the previous episode, where Tom Vickers shared his thoughts on the 17th Kingdom.
In this brand new episode, I kept exploring the 17th with my wife (and our new intern Victoria Hughes).
Relevant places to find:
Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner 43 avenue de Villiers, 75017 A beautiful 19th-century townhouse museum dedicated to the dreamy, atmospheric paintings of Alsatian artist Jean-Jacques Henner (1829–1905), tucked into the elegant Plaine Monceau neighbourhood. www.musee-henner.fr
Claude Debussy & the 17th Debussy lived in the 17th for many years and composed some of his most celebrated works here, including Pelléas et Mélisande and Clair de Lune. The neighbourhood honoured him with both a street and a conservatoire bearing his name.
25 Rue de Chazelles: Where the Statue of Liberty Was Built The workshop where Bartholdi and Eiffel assembled the Statue of Liberty before shipping it to New York. 25 rue de Chazelles, 75017
Inform Café A top specialty coffee shop and brunch spot with two locations in the 17th, one of them inside the striking Cité de l'Économie building (11 bis rue Georges Berger, 75017), and the original at 25 rue des Acacias. www.informcafe.com
Square des Batignolles A classic Haussmann-era English-style garden with a grotto, waterfall and pond, it's the heart of the village-y Batignolles neighbourhood. 11 place Charles-Fillion, 75017
Parc Martin Luther King (Parc Clichy-Batignolles) A vast, modern 10-hectare park built on former railway land, full of biodiversity, cherry trees. 147 rue Cardinet, 75017
Station Service Batignolles A tiny, warm neighbourhood coffee shop serving specialty coffee, fresh juices and homemade cakes - a perfect local gem. 3 rue Brochant, 75017
This episode is brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in Montmartre, the Marais, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are now award winning, and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson's take on Debussy's Claire de Lune.
-
Welcome back to "The 20 Kingdoms" season. As you probably know, there are 20 districts in Paris, known as arrondissements. They may as well be kingdoms, at least for this podcast season, where I'll visit each kingdom and introduce you to someone who truly loves it.
In this episode, it's Australian chef Tom Vickers. He runs a couple of cafes in the 17th, a district he defines as being a fusion of its neighbouring districts (specifically the 18th and 16th). I met him at his flagship spot, the Inform Cafe, here's what he had to say.
Mentioned in this episode:
Inform Café - the original
25 Rue des Acacias, 75017 Paris
Flagship mentioned in the episode: 11 bis Rue Georges Berger, 75017 Paris
With its high ceilings and view of an Italian-German architecture tower, this location offers more of a restaurant experience, with some additions to the menu, like a short wine list.
Great streets: Rue des Dames, Rue de Lévis
Canadian Embassy Pub: With a dark wood interior and a list of draft beers, here you can get a traditional Canadian Pub experience.
Address: 71 Bd Gouvion-Saint-Cyr, 75017 Paris
****************
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson
-
Updated Re-Release: This episode originally aired a few years ago and has since become one of The Earful Tower's most beloved classics. We're bringing it back today because some things are simply too good - and too instructive - to stay buried in the archives.
It started with a photo. A single, damning image shared on The Earful Tower's social media: an 18-month-old Comté, massacred at a Parisian dinner party by the hand of a newly arrived American. The picture went viral inside the Earful community almost instantly, and the culprit, Will Weaver, a Texan fresh off the plane, became the talk of the group. So we did what any responsible France-based podcast would do: we launched a full investigation.
In this episode, you'll hear from genuinely mortified cheesemongers, some committed dramatic performances from Earful VIPs, and crucially the full account from Will Weaver himself, the man holding the knife that fateful evening. Yes, we find out exactly what he did, why he did it, and whether he has shown any remorse whatsoever. We also get into the real, legitimate, no-nonsense guide to how you are actually supposed to cut a Comté — because this is a safe space for learning, not just judgement.
A word of warning before you dive in: a lot of this episode is firmly tongue-in-cheek, so take the drama with a generous pinch of salt. The cheese-cutting advice, however, is completely genuine. If the episode sends you running to the nearest fromagerie, the spots mentioned in the show is worth a visit: Griffon Fromager in Paris's 7th arrondissement (23 bis Av. de la Motte-Picquet, 75007 Paris) and we also recorded at bar of the legendary Le Bristol Paris (112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris). Both are excellent.
The music is from Pres Maxson.
This episode is brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Whether you're exploring the Marais, scaling Montmartre, or wandering the Latin Quarter, our walking tours are among the highest-rated in Paris — and the best possible way to experience this podcast in the flesh.
The Earful Tower stays independent thanks to its members. For just $10 a month, you'll unlock a growing vault of extras: bonus episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and an annually updated PDF guide to Paris that's worth its weight in Comté. You can get started in under a minute via Patreon or Substack — and if you're already a member, thank you. You're the reason this exists.
More from The Earful Tower: Website · Weekly Newsletter · Walking Tours
-
C is for Carnavalet. Or should that be Kernevenoy??
In this episode, we dive into one of Paris's most overlooked treasures - the Carnavalet Museum, the only museum in the world dedicated entirely to the history of Paris. I share, for the first time, the story of visiting the newly renovated museum before it opened to the public - completely alone - while waiting for the birth of my first son. Plus: the strange story behind the museum's bizarre name, and the remarkable woman history forgot.
The Carnavalet Museum: 23 rue de Sévigné (also entered from 16 rue des Francs-Bourgeois), 75003
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am–6pm. Closed Mondays. Permanent collection is free. Metro: Saint-Paul (line 1) Official website: carnavalet.paris.fr
Mentioned in this episode:
The €56 million renovation that closed the museum for four and a half years before reopening in May 2021 Françoise de La Baume — the twice-widowed aristocrat who actually owned the building and whose husband's unpronounceable Breton name gave the museum its peculiar title Marcel Proust's cork-lined bedroom, Napoleon's death mask, and a 6,000-year-old canoe pulled from the SeineThe music is from Pres Maxson.
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
New episode: Let's take a deeper dive into the 18th arrondissement of Paris. You've hopefully already heard the previous episode, where Sutanya Dacres shared her thoughts on the 18th Kingdom.
In this brand new episode, I re-visited the 18th and did some exploring with my wife, and with Earful Tower's senior tour guide Hannah Coyle, who regularly walks the streets of Montmartre. Hannah shared her thoughts on everything from gentrification to rue des Abbesses, my old favourite street.
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in Montmartre (!!) or Marais, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are now award winning, and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. Why not meet Hannah in Montmartre!
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson -
Welcome back to "The 20 Kingdoms", a new season of The Earful Tower podcast. As you probably know, there are 20 districts in Paris, known as arrondissements. They may as well be kingdoms, at least for this podcast season, where I'll visit each kingdom and introduce you to someone who truly loves it.
In this episode, it's Sutanya Dacres, podcaster and author of Dinner For One. She has called the 18th home since 2013 and truly loves it. I met her at the Pirates de Montmartre seafood restaurant over an oyster or two. Here's what she had to say.
Mentioned in this episode:
Les Pirates De Montmartre (seafood restaurant)
Address: 63 Rue Duhesme, 75018 Paris
Au Rêve (cafe),
Address: 89 Rue Caulaincourt, 75018 Paris
****************
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson
-
This podcast episode features host Oliver Gee and his co-host Lina exploring the history and physical traces of the Bièvre, a lost river in Paris. Once a vital waterway that flowed into the Seine, the river was entirely buried and built over by 1912 due to industrial pollution.
In this updated re-release, we lead a "scavenger hunt" with a group of enthusiasts to find medallions, plaques, and architectural clues that reveal the river's hidden path through the 13th and 5th arrondissements. A highlight of the journey includes visiting a perfectly preserved medieval arch located deep beneath a modern post office. Oliver also ventures outside city limits with a colorful character named the "Comte de Saint-Germain" to wade through a restored section of the water. Finally, the discussion touches on future urban projects that aim to uncover parts of the Bièvre to help the city combat climate change.
The music is from Pres Maxson.
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
B is for Brocantes! This podcast episode features an interview with Sharon Santoni, a long-time expert on French lifestyle and author of the book "The Art of Antiquing in France."
She discusses the nuances of the "brocante", which she defines as accessible antiques that possess a unique history and patina.
The conversation explores the cultural importance of repurposing vintage items and provides practical advice for navigating famous markets like the Puces de Saint-Ouen in Paris and fairs in Provence.
Sharon shares her personal journey from starting a blog in 2010 to building a community centered on French country aesthetics. Additionally, she shares tips for international travelers on how to identify quality pieces, negotiate prices, and transport treasures home.
Key Links and Websites
Sharon Santoni's Official Website: www.myfrenchcountryhome.com
This is the primary hub for her blog (started in 2010), her My French Country Home magazine, and her boutique.
The Book: "The Art of Antiquing in France" – Published by Flammarion, this book serves as both a reference and a coffee table book and is fully illustrated with photographs by Sharon Santoni, Franck Schmitt, and Joanna Maclennan.
Books are available worldwide from your favorite local bookseller and signed editions can be purchased directly via her website on this link.
Antique Fair Locator: Sharon mentions the website, www.brocabrac.fr, which is a helpful resource for finding fairs happening across France on any given weekend
Places MentionedThe episode covers several iconic and local spots for antiquing and living in France:
In Paris:
Les Puces de Saint-Ouen: Located on the northern perimeter of Paris, Sharon describes it as a unique place in the world with over 500 vendors and specialized knowledge in everything from paintings to textiles
Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves: A weekend morning market Sharon and Oliver both enjoy for its "authentic vibe." It is known for its urgency, as dealers unpack from cars at 8:00 AM and pack up by 12:30 PM
Foire de Châtou: A large, prestigious 10-day antique fair held just outside of Paris
In Provence and Southern France:L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: This town is famous for its antique dealers and weekend markets.
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: A "wonderful" fair mentioned by Sharon
Carpentras: Another "fantastic" fair located in the south
In Normandy and Northern France:The Eure Valley (Val de l'Eure): Sharon lives in the Normandy countryside, roughly halfway between Paris and Deauville, near the famous village of Giverny
Amiens: A northern city (noted as the home of Emmanuel Macron) that hosts a spectacular fair where selling starts as early as midnight
Lille: Known for its massive fair, though Sharon notes it is so large it can be "scary" because it includes items beyond just antiques
Notable Details for AntiquingBrocante vs. Antiques: Sharon defines brocante as "relaxed antiques", a mix of items with patina and repurposed pieces, whereas the "antique world" typically involves highly polished furniture and higher price points
The "Hand Rule": Sharon advises that if you are interested in an item, keep your hand on it; if you take your hand off and step away, someone else can jump in
Suitcase Treasures: For travelers, she suggests looking for paintings, vintage postcards, or palettes that can easily fit into a suitcaseOne tip she shares from her travelers is to "ship home their dirty laundry" to make room for their antique treasures in their luggage.
__________________________________________________________
A reminder: For this new season, we're doing a new take on the A to Z of Paris. This time, B stands for Brocantes, following from A which stood for Arc de Triomphe.
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
New episode: Let's take a deeper dive into the 19th arrondissement of Paris. You've hopefully already heard the previous episode, where Ben McPartland shared his thoughts on the 19th Kingdom.
In this brand new episode, we visited some of the places he recommended, plus more. And we report back to you! (Scroll down for the spelling/websites of each place mentioned).
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Food and Drink
L'Atalante
A spacious bar on the canal known for IPAs and dishes like roasted cauliflower with peanut butter sauce.
26 Quai de la Marne, 75019 Paris
www.latalante.frCombat
A lively cocktail bar near the border of the 19th and 20th arrondissements, recommended for high-quality cocktails.
63 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
www.combat.parisLao Siam
A long-running Southeast Asian restaurant recognized by the Michelin Guide, known for dishes like "Crying Tiger" beef.
49 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
www.laosiam.frCheval d'Or
A highly praised restaurant with an understated exterior.
21 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
www.chevaldorparis.comPaname Brewing Company
A brewery on the canal serving craft beer and food.
41 Quai de la Loire, 75019 Paris
www.panamebrewingcompany.comLe Passage à Niveau
A restaurant on the Petite Ceinture with its own herb garden and mushroom cultivation.
2 bis Rue de l'Ourcq, 75019 Paris
https://www.instagram.com/lepassageaniveau/Coffee Shops & Bakeries
Mardi
A café known for excellent coffee and Swedish-style cinnamon buns.
29 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
www.instagram.com/mardi_cafe_parisBuna Bet
A specialty coffee shop and roastery known for single-origin coffee, pastries, and a warm neighborhood atmosphere.
102 Rue de Meaux, 75019 Paris
www.bunabet.frParks & Culture
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
A dramatic park built on an old quarry with steep hills, a lake, and a hilltop temple.
1–7 Rue Botzaris, 75019 ParisParc de la Villette
A large contemporary park with playgrounds, museums, and entertainment venues.
211 Av. Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
www.lavillette.comPhilharmonie de Paris
A major concert hall located inside Parc de la Villette.
221 Av. Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
www.philharmoniedeparis.frL'Eau et les Rêves
A botanical bookshop on a moored boat along the canal.
9 Quai de l'Oise, 75019 Paris
https://www.penichelibrairie.com/Belleville Market
A busy outdoor food market near Rue de Belleville.
Boulevard de Belleville, 75019 ParisNordic Bookshop (La Librairie Nordique)
A specialized bookstore focused on Nordic and northern literature.
5 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
www.lalibrairienordique.fr -
Welcome back to "The 20 Kingdoms", a new season of The Earful Tower podcast. As you probably know, there are 20 districts in Paris, known as arrondissements. They may as well be kingdoms, at least for this podcast season, where I'll visit each kingdom and introduce you to someone who truly loves it.
That's the whole concept. This isn't me recommending cafes or restaurants in different parts of town. This is true locals telling us about the soul of their kingdom and what they like to do there. The goal is to give you a very real look at each of these districts from a local's perspective.
And for the 19th Kingdom, the second episode of the season, you'll meet Ben McPartland, the presenter and producer of the Talking France podcast, which is made by The Local France news website here in Paris.
He loves this "genuine neighbourhood" of an arrondissement, and I met him at the edge of the Bassin de la Villette for a pint of beer, which he also loves. Here's what he had to say.
Mentioned in this episode:
Drinks, Food & Canal Hangouts
Paname Brewing CompanyA floating brewery on the Bassin de la Villette with an easygoing, almost London-style pub atmosphere. Great beers, lively crowds, and one of the best sunset views over the canal.
41 Quai de la Loire, 75019
panamebrewingcompany.comL'Atalante
Just up the Canal de l'Ourcq from Paname Brewing, this spot is known for its strong craft beer selection and excellent IPAs.
26 Quai de la Marne, 75019
latalante-paris.comLa Rotonde
Historic circular building at Stalingrad with restaurants, terraces, and drinks right on the edge of the canal basin. Ideal meeting point before exploring the neighborhood.
6–8 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad, 75019
Bars Inside Buttes-Chaumont
In summer, the park fills with tiny outdoor bars and terraces tucked among the hills and pathways — perfect for an afternoon drink after wandering the park.
Music, Film & Culture
Philharmonie de ParisOne of Paris's great modern concert halls, famous for its dramatic silver architecture and panoramic rooftop terrace overlooking the city.
221 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019
philharmoniedeparis.frLe Zénith
Large live music venue inside Parc de la Villette hosting major touring artists and rock concerts.
211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019
le-zenith.comMK2 Cinemas
Twin cinemas facing each other across the canal. A favorite local spot for late-night screenings and films in original English versions.
7 Quai de la Loire & 14 Quai de la Seine, 75019
mk2.comCité des Sciences et de l'Industrie
Massive science and industry museum loved by Parisian families, with exhibitions, immersive installations, and huge open spaces.
30 Avenue Corentin Cariou, 75019
cite-sciences.frOn the Water
Akwa electric boatsRent small electric boats and cruise the Canal de l'Ourcq yourself — especially beautiful from spring through early autumn.
37 Quai de la Seine, 75019
https://akwa-experience.com/en/
Kayaks & Rowboats
Locals can often access free kayaking and rowing sessions around the Bassin de la Villette on weekends during warmer months.
Summer Canal Swimming
Every summer, sections of the Bassin de la Villette transform into open-air swimming areas, with races, floating pools, and seasonal events.
Parks & Walks
Parc des Buttes-ChaumontWild, cinematic, and hilly — often called the most beautiful park in Paris. Expect cliffs, bridges, waterfalls, a lake, and incredible Sacré-Cœur views.
Parc de la Villette
Huge contemporary park blending architecture, green space, music venues, museums, and canal life into one sprawling cultural district.
****************
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson
-
Let's take a deep dive into the Paris Rose Line. This is an updated re-release of the time I did another A to Z season, where A was for Arago, the name of the scientist who helped map out the Paris meridian line (François Arago (1786-1853)).
In this episode, I explored the "Rose Line" (as it was called in the Da Vinci Code), sought out the bronze medallions along the streets of Paris, through the Louvre, and into the Paris Observatory.
Featured is the voice of Nicolas Lesté-Lasserre, a science historian and the community manager of the Observatoire de Paris. He showed me around this incredible 17th century institution, which is usually closed to the public.
Find more, including beautiful pictures of the observatory, on The Earful Tower's website.
The episode in this music is from Pres Maxson, featuring an original song called Le Meridien de Paris.
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
It's another new season - and we're doing a new take on the A to Z of Paris. This time, A stands for Arc de Triomphe. A big thanks to the team at the Arch, who opened this majestic monument just for me! I had the whole thing to myself, did an interview on top - and then made this episode.
You'll hear my wife Lina as my sidekick as I share about 10-15 cool things about the Arch, at least five of which you definitely didn't know.
Find the video we mentioned on my YouTube page here: https://www.youtube.com/theearfultower
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
-
Let's take a deeper dive into the 20th arrondissement of Paris. This is an updated re-release of the time we visited the 20th arrondissement as part of our Paris Countdown season.
You'll hear dinnertime singalongs, a cemetery visit, and more about the best pizza in Europe. There is even an interview with a Polish singer called Gosia who had just finished leading an Edith Piaf show at a local restaurant. (She sings on the episode, too, her fave Edith song, which was J'm'en fous pas mal).
You can find everything we mention on this post:
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
If you're in a rush, here is a narrative distillation of the episode (meaning, essentially, that you're reading about 10 percent of what happens).
Oliver: Let me take you back to December 19th, 1915, in Paris, where a baby girl named Edith Piaf was born on the cold streets of Belleville. She became the soul of Paris and, more specifically, the soul of the district we are sharing with you today in the far east of the city. To get there, we are taking a car, and I'm joined by my wife and confidant, Lina,.
Lina: Yes, I am ready. Welcome to a new season.
Oliver: I'm very excited. I've described my role this season as the Robin to your Batman.
Lina: And usually, I am the Batman, of course.
Oliver: We want to give everyone a glimpse into this interesting neighborhood where Edith Piaf served as the muse,. Upon arrival in Belleville, we stayed at the Babel Belleville hotel. It was immediately clear that this is a different version of Paris than the one people expect with berets and the Eiffel Tower.
Lina: Especially since we arrived on market day.
Oliver: The market was busy, bustling, and colorful, with more people than I've ever seen in a Paris market. We were in full tourist mode, talking to street sellers and eating what seemed like an Algerian Korean crepe,. The area is very diverse and immersive,. We also noticed that as time passed, there were far fewer tourists than in areas like the Marais.
Lina: The shops aren't catered to tourists either; many were residential or even closed down,. It's a real, unpolished neighborhood.
Oliver: Our plan was to explore for the day and then attend a show at Le Vieux Belleville. The 20th is a large district, so we did a lot of walking. We set our sights on Peppe's Pizza, which is ranked the best pizza in Europe. On the way, we passed the Père Lachaise Cemetery, which is essentially the only major tourist attraction in the district.
Lina: I used to live in the 20th and had visited the cemetery a few times years ago, but it is just so big.
Oliver: No one should miss it because entering those gates feels like entering a different world. However, it is not wheelchair or push-chair friendly due to the huge cobblestones,. While the most famous grave is often cited as Jim Morrison, I went looking for the ultimate hit: Edith Piaf,. Her grave is somewhat unassuming, much like her famous little black dress. After the cemetery, we finally had that pizza, which lived up to the hype with its unique toppings like cheese and marmalade,.
Lina: It was delicious.
Oliver: Next, we looked for La Campagne à Paris, the "countryside of Paris". It's a remote area with cottage-style houses built on top of old quarries, which is why the buildings are so low,. Our cab driver even gossiped that the previous president, François Hollande, lives up there.
Lina: It was lovely, though since it's winter, there were more sticks than greenery. It's a great spot for a 15-minute walk and an Instagram photo.
Oliver: That evening, we went to Le Vieux Belleville. We were worried it might be cheesy or touristy, but we ended up staying for three hours,. I managed to warm up the owner by telling him he looked like George Clooney,. Every Tuesday is Edith Piaf night, featuring an accordionist and a wonderful Polish singer named Gosia,.
Lina: The vibe felt like crashing a French family's dinner party,.
Oliver: We were the only foreigners there, but everyone was dancing and singing together. It was an utterly surprising amount of fun. Afterward, I stepped outside to interview the singer, Gosia,.
Oliver: Gosia, that was a wonderful performance. How did a Polish woman end up singing Edith Piaf in Belleville,?
Gosia: I started learning French by singing her songs. I adore the "gut" emotion in her singing; she comes from the streets. Piaf is an icon, but not many people really listen to her music anymore.
Oliver: What makes a good crowd for you?
Gosia: A crowd that realizes they actually can sing along. I know the evening worked if people are exchanging phone numbers and talking to their neighbors by the end. It's more of a ritual than a concert.
Oliver: What is your favorite Piaf song?
Gosia: My favorite is "J'm'en fous pas mal".
Oliver: You also mentioned this is the best district in Paris.
Gosia: It is getting gentrified, but it's a lovely, mixed, working-class area where Piaf was born. It has the real life of the neighborhood and an original Parisian feel,. We need to enjoy it while it lasts.
Oliver: Le Vieux Belleville really captured the vibe of the neighborhood. My only complaint was that the lighting was a bit too bright,. Afterward, we walked down to Rue de Belleville and visited a bar called Aux Folies where Piaf used to perform,.
Lina: That bar has a great "old Paris but young vibe" with neon lights. It's very picturesque, but don't expect fancy cocktails—it's all about cheap drinks and fun.
Oliver: We stayed at the Babel Belleville, which has an international, "multi-culti" vibe that represents the 20th well,. The next day, we visited a brand-new cafe called The Dancing Goat, run by a young British guy,.
Lina: The cafe was beautiful and fresh. Regarding the street art, it was cool but perhaps not as much as I had hoped for.
Oliver: I think the 13th arrondissement might be better for street art, though Rue Dénoyez had some huge murals,. Finally, we decided to rank the district based on five categories: Strollability, Affordability, Sharability, Touristability, and Accessibility,.
The Scores:
Strollability: Oliver (4), Lina (3) — It's too big and has too many hills. Affordability: Oliver (10), Lina (10) — Probably the cheapest in Paris. Sharability: Oliver (5), Lina (4). Touristability: Oliver (3), Lina (5) — Lina liked the views and the bars,. Accessibility: Oliver (3), Lina (2) — It's quite far from the rest of Paris.Oliver: My total was 23, and Lina's was 26, giving the district a 49 out of 100,.
Lina: It failed!
Oliver: It's not a fail, it's just a very residential district. I probably wouldn't stay here on a first trip to Paris, but it's a great experience if you've been here before. Join us next week as we head to the canals of the 19th Arrondissement.
Oliver and Lina: Bye-bye!
-
Welcome to "The 20 Kingdoms", a new season of The Earful Tower podcast.
As you probably know, there are 20 districts in Paris, known in French as arrondissements. But my brother once referred to them as kingdoms and I liked it. It's true, each of the districts has its own soul, quite separate from the next. They may as well be kingdoms. At least for a podcast season.
In this 20-episode season of the podcast, I'm going to visit each kingdom and introduce you to someone who truly loves that particular district. Maybe they work there, maybe they live there, or maybe they just love it.
That's the whole concept. This isn't me recommending cafes or restaurants in different parts of town. This is true locals telling us about the soul of their kingdom and what they like to do there. The goal is to give you a very real look at each of these districts from a local's perspective.
And for the 20th Kingdom, the first episode of the season, you'll meet Abiola, a social worker who looks after kids in the north western side of the district. He loves cafes, good food, football and the 20th arrondissement of Paris. Here's what he had to say.
Mentioned in this episode:
Restaurant
Paloma
Website: https://www.instagram.com/paloma.belleville/
Address: 93 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris
Bar
Combat
Website: https://www.instagram.com/combat.belleville/?hl=en
Address: 63 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
Cafes
Candle Kids
Website: https://www.instagram.com/candlekidscoffee/
Address: 107 rue des couronnes, Paris, France 75020Miliki Coffee
Website: https://milikicafe.com/
Address: 8 rue Levert, 75020 Paris
Bambin
Website: https://bambin-coffeeshop.fr/
Address: 40 Rue de Tourtille, 75020 Paris
Best thing to do
Parc de Belleville
Best street
Rue Saint Blaise
********************
This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life.
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson
-
Have you ever heard of Rungis? It's the world's largest wholesale food market, it provides all the Paris markets and restaurants with their fresh produce, and you can find it near the Orly Airport.
Or can you?
This place may as well be top secret. Only the vendors and restauranteurs can access it - yet it's as big as a village. Every night, at around 2am, produce sellers (like fishermen and cheesemongers) open their doors to the eager buyers, who charge in and negotiate prices for the goods.
And even though it's closed to the public, I got an invite to make this episode. My invite came from April Pett who runs April in Paris tours, check her out here: https://www.aprilinparistours.com/
Big shout out to market vendor Jaad who took us around and whose laughter echoed through the halls of Rungis all night.
You can find more about the market here (but remember, it isn't open to visit to the public). https://www.rungisinternational.com/
Here's the replay of the short live video we made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeiII9gqlZo
And the rest of our pictures are on social media, the rest of my videos will be for the members, only. Links below.
********************
The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.
Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.
For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Website
Weekly newsletter
Walking Tours
Music: Pres Maxson
- Show more
