Episódios
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I know that CYT listeners love to hear how sewing is being used to positively impact the lives of others, so I know you’re going to love today’s episode! For years, Mel Keane has been improving the lives of members of her community who are struggling through various types of volunteering. This has included setting up sewing workshops to help people clothe themselves and their families, as well as to build skills and confidence. The workshops Mel facilitated at a refugee centre helped forge a sense of community for people who found themselves isolated. And more recently, the sewing classes she runs help the participants find a sense of calm and stillness in otherwise very stressful lives.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find Mel on Instagram (@melaniekeane).
Visit The Lighthouse’s website to learn more about where Mel volunteers:
The Stash Hub app helps Mel keep track of the donated fabrics.
Mel starting (non-scrub) garment making using the PJs pattern in Tilly and the Buttons Love At First Stitch book.
She then moved on to Closet Core Pattern’s Carolyn Pajamas pattern.
Mel is active in the @SewOver50 community and helped start up @surreysews.
You can help them raise money for Sewing Stillness by attending the SewFizzTeaCated fundraising event that is taking place on Saturday 19th October 2024:
…or by participating in the #SewFizzTeaCated24 sewing challenge:
Mel will be hosting a session at The Virtual Sewing Room on Wednesday 18th September.
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Many of us sewers feel confused and even wary of the term deadstock fabric. Does buying fabric labelled ‘deadstock' really save it from landfill or incineration? Or are we enabling fabric producers and fashion brands to get away with overproduction, incentivising it even? And what’s the difference between ‘deadstock’ and ‘overstock’, and how, as consumers, can we tell the difference?
This week, you’ll hear my conversation with Hannah and Rosie from London-based The New Craft House as they unpick this topic for us, leaving us all with a greater understanding. From school friends, to craft bloggers, to workshop facilitators to fabric purveyors, the current incarnation of their business is made possible by navigating the excesses and waste of the fashion industry. In this conversation Hannah and Rosie are super open and candid about how their business runs, and their plans and hopes for its more sustainable future.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find The New Craft House online, via Instagram (@newcrafthouse) and IRL at their London studio:
They explain the nature of deadstock fabric on their website:
#sewyourselfsustainable is the hashtag they created to encourage the sewing community to explore more sustainable practices during September. It also coincides with other sustainability-related endeavours, including Oxfam´s Secondhand September campaign.
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Do you want to hang with me and regular guest Meg Grandstaff as we grill each other about sewing plans and goals, and cackle over basically everything? This episode is a chatty conversation in which we have a catch up about our current creative obsessions, projects and plans.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
You can follow Meg’s sewing and knitting endeavours, as well as learn more about #scrapbustingseptember via Instagram (@the_grand_stash).
Previous episodes with Meg Grandstaff include:
Ep #22: Mending Workshops with Carla & Meg / Community GlueEp #37: Pledges and Participants #1 with Rebecca & MegEp. #103: Swimming in a Sea of Scraps with Meg GrandstaffMeg has been working on:
The Ginger Jeans pattern by Closet Core PatternsThe Gable Top pattern by Jennifer Lauren Handmade The Granville Shirt pattern by SewaholicMeg tried the Seasonal Stash organisation system I came up with. You can hear about it and check out the FREE downloadable PDF version.
Meg took an alterations class at Sew On Central in Evanston, IL, USA
Check out Meg’s incredible, reversible fabric:
…and her Gingham with lobsters fabric!:
Meg’s thinking of using pattern McCalls 6696 to make her shirtdress.
During Scrap Busting September last year, Meg pieced together scraps of black jersey to make a Lago Tank:
My downloadable resource, How to Sew Clothes with Fabric Scraps, can help get creative and resourceful with scraps.
I highly recommend making a meditation cushion using this tutorial by The Daily Sew.
I made a yoga bolster with removable cover for my friend:
My failed vest/gilet knitting project:
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This week’s episode provides a window into the ideas and processes of quilt artist Eliu Hernandez. Much of Eliu’s practice focuses on the reuse of existing materials, and he’s taken this further than you might previously have thought possible! I loved nerding out about denim with him, and even if denim isn’t your jam, this conversation may help you take reusing garments to a whole new level. We also discuss the portability of hand stitching and unpicking, crafting as a new parent, and consider the likelihood of a pair of jeans having been worn to rob a bank!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find Eliu via his IG account @madeorremade.
Eliu has made a series of quilts entitled ‘Waist Not’, which are made almost entirely from reclaimed materials, including the backing and thread used for quilting (see below).
‘Cutting Up Jeans’ is a fabulous little zine that Eliu made in collaboration with quilt artist Zak Foster.
Find out more about Zak Foster.
Eliu is friends with fellow quilt artist, Heidi Parkes.
Listen to my subsequent episodes with Heidi:
Ep. #105: A Habit of Curiosity with Heidi ParkesEp. #106: Reframing a Relationship with Clothing with Heidi ParkesEliu makes use of the reclaimed zips from deconstructed jeans by making these wonderful, and very useful, zippered pouches (see below):
A selection of Eliu’s reclaimed, handmade, leather thimbles:
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We can all agree that mending items when they break to keep them in use out of landfill for longer is important. Repair cafes and organisations have been popping up across the globe to help facilitate keeping stuff in use for longer. But how much do you know about the inner workings of these groups and how they operate? And how much fun is it to volunteer for them, or even start one from scratch? My third replay episode of the summer is my conversation with Carla Bruni and Meg Grandstaff from Community Glue Workshop in Chicago. It’s a fascinating sneaky peek, as well as informative discussion, with Community Glue’s founder Carla and resident textiles mender Meg.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Check out the Community Glue Workshop website and follow them on Instagram (@communityglue).
Photos from some of the Community Glue Workshops can be enjoyed in the show notes from the original episode.
Listen to my subsequent conversation with Meg:
Ep. #103: Swimming in a Sea of Scraps with Meg GrandstaffYou can follow Meg’s sewing and knitting endeavours, as well as learn more about #scrapbustingseptember via IG @the_grand_stash.
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Living in a way that limits your negative impact on the planet gets a bad wrap. It’s often viewed as restrictive, limiting, frustrating, dull, even joyless. This week’s episode is a replay of my conversation with a maker who blows that whole notion completely out the water. Sarah Lancaster, AKA Sarah Sew Love, is a New Zealand based sewing teacher, maker and sustainability phenomenon with a vibrant aesthetic and buckets full of positive energy. We talk about lots of things, from the social enterprise she started to teach people sewing and mending skills at music festivals,, to her love of creating with reclaimed fabric to make her fantastic product range. Sarah explains how making more sustainable choices can bring your life extra layers of enjoyment rather than restricting it, and if you don’t feel uplifted and inspired by the end of this episode, then I’ll give up podcasting!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Follow Sarah Sew Love and her joyful aesthetic via Instagram (@sewlovenz).
Sarah also has a website that brings together all aspects of her work and creativity.
Her Etsy shop where Sarah sells handmade bumbags and towel ponchos is called SarahSewLove.
Watch the amazing video of Sarah showing how to wear your bum bag depending on your dancing style.
At the time of recording the conversation, Sarah worked for Xtreme Zero Waste in Raglan, New Zealand.
Other businesses and enterprises mentioned:
Fabricabrac (fabric markets around NZ). My Keeper (sells and rents dresses and collaborated with Sarah on a range of bumbags).DIY Daisy (colourful inspiration and garment tutorials). -
Have you ever sewn an entire garment by hand? Or even considered it? This week’s episode is a replay of a very popular conversation from the CYT archives with hand-stitching expert Louisa Owen Sonstroem. Louisa explains why you might want to do more stitching by hand rather than machine, and gives advice on how to start.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Louisa Owen Sonstroem has a website and can be followed on Instagram (@louisaowensonstroem).
Find out more about Louisa’s book.
Her book can be bought in PDF form via her Etsy shop.
In the UK, Louisa’s book can be bought in paper form from Beyond Measure.
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Sometimes sticking to a tight budget can feel really complicated, as well as frustrating. But if you’re looking to spend less on your sewing, then I have five super simple tactics for you that require very little effort to implement. AND, what is even more awesome is that each one will automatically help you reduce the environmental impact on your sewing!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Image source: Tomáš Petz via Unsplash
Check out related episode:
Ep. #58: Sewing on a BudgetTactic #1: Finish a project before you start a new one.
Related listen:
Ep. #92: Self Coaching for Sewing Success with Kim WittenTactic #2: Sew from your fabric stash.
Related listens:
Ep. #118: Last Sewist Standing with Lise BauerEp. #119: Seasonal Stash OrganisationTactic #3: Buy less fabric than you need.
Tactic: #4 Remake a sewing pattern you made before.
Related listen:
Ep. #90: Introduction to Pattern HackingTactic #5: When buying a sewing pattern, if it comes in both paper and digital PDF formats, go for the PDF.
Related listen:
Ep. #41: Using Sewing Patterns More Sustainably -
Attending a fabric swap can be the most fun ever! It’s one of the most ethical ways to offload your unwanted fabric, plus it will also give you access to new-to-you fabric that you’re excited to sew with. AND you’ll get to meet other passionate sewers. In this episode you’ll be coming along with me and friend-of-the-podcast Catherine Weight as we attend the London Destash Fabric Swap. The event took place in January 2024 and was organised by Yvette from Stash Hub and Sarah from Olive Road London. Listen right to the end where Sarah shares some incredibly helpful tips on how you can organise a fabric swap of your own!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
For a Covid-safer meet-up, check out these tips.
The London Destash Fabric Swap was organised by Sarah from Olive Road London and Yvette from Stash Hub app.
Sarah wrote an excellent post sharing heaps of tips on how to organise a successful fabric swap.
Catherine Weight (@kittyandthetiger on Instagram) came with me to the Knitting and Stitching show in 2023. Listen to what we got up to:
Ep. #110: Knitting & Stitching Show 2023Also attending the fabric swap was Tanya from Bornella Fabrics, who featured in the Knitting & Stitching Show episode also.
Here's what Catherine brought back, plus the two wonderful garments she's made so far from fabric from the swap:
This the stack of fabric I took to the swap and the items I’ve made so far from my own fabric scores:
Thanks again to Sarah and Yvette for organising this wonderful event.
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It seems like every day, another small craft business announces that it’s closing down. In this solo episode I’m looking at the causes. What can we do to both support small businesses AND buy less new stuff for the sake of our planet?
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Image source: Tim Mossholder via Unsplash
Find out more about the Last Sewist Standing challenge:
Ep. #118: Last Sewist Standing with Lise BauerThis Forbes article, ‘The Benefits Of Shopping Small All Year Long’ by Jim Granat, was really interesting.
The shoplocaluk.org website has some more useful information.
I used the definition of the cost of living crisis from this fuelgenie.co.uk article.
Enjoy Gina Ferrari’s Substack.
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Do you practice values-based spending? You probably do, but possibly never thought of it in such terms. In this episode, regular guest Shams el-Din Rogers and I discuss how to align your spending and your making with what’s really important to you. Plus, Shams and I share what we think, or rather hope, our wardrobes broadcast about ourselves!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers.
Listen to her on previous episodes of CYT:
Ep.#32: Textile Activism with Shams el–Din Rogers Ep.#49: Sewing as Art and Political Action with Shams el–Din RogersEp.#77: Stashes and Spaces with Shams el–Din RogersEp. #81: Travel, Sustainability and Sewing with Shams el-Din RogersShams is part of a creative re-use collective called Works in Progress Toronto.
Values based spending is a term coined by Jen and Jill from the Frugal Friends podcast. Listen to a one of their many awesome episodes on the topic:
Ep. #325: Step by Step Guide to Values Based SpendingShams is a supporter of the Black Women Stitch podcast created by Lisa Woolfork.
Wawak is a US-based online sewing supplies shop where Shams buys her cotton thread.
At time of recording, Shams had just dropped out of the Last Sewist Standing challenge, and I was still clinging on. Hear about the challenge in full detail:
Ep. #118: Last Sewist Standing with Lise BauerShams and I discussed the sustainability of Halloween costumes, including stats I learned whilst researching for:
Ep. #108: A More Sustainable HalloweenShams and I touched on the subject of sewing when you already have enough clothes. This topic was expanded upon in:
Ep. #123: Sewing When Your Wardrobe is FullOne point that was made in this discussion is that the more sustainable option is often to buy or do less. This was an idea explored further in:
Ep. #85: Everyday Activism with Rachel AKA The Crap Activist -
Have you heard of the multiple forms of capital? It’s the theory that there are numerous ways in which we can be wealthy, beyond our finances. This week’s guest, Laura Oldanie, is a green living and money coach who talks to me about the concepts and the practicalities related to living a rich and resilient life. As makers, we are used to flexing our creativity and resourcefulness. So let’s investigate how we can apply these skills more broadly to achieve abundance, resilience and wealth.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Laura Oldanie has many facets to her work, all of which can be explored via her website.
Follow Laura on Instagram (@rich_resilient) and on YouTube (@lauraoldanie).
Laura co-authored a book ‘Growing FREE: Building the Life of Your Dreams Without Losing Your Soul or Destroying the Planet’:
I first heard about Laura through The Frugal Friends podcast:
Ep. #362: The Multiple Forms of Capital to Earn & Build Wealth with Laura OldanieThere are many platforms for sharing and acquiring unwanted items, including:
Local Buy Nothing groups on FacebookFreecycleFreegleOlio appCheck out Laura’s course: Towards Regenerative Investing - A Beginner’s Guide.
Invest in regenerative farming in the US via the Go Steward platform.
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This week you will hear an episode of the Sew Organised Style podcast about a social enterprise based in Australia called The Nest Community. The Nest is an incredible charity that empowers women by fostering healing and connection. And they do this important work by keeping existing crafting materials in use and by sharing craft skills and knowledge.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
I made my pallet bench at a workshop run by The Salvage Sister:
In this episode you will hear founder and CEO of The Nest Community, Roz Holt:
This episode was made by Sew Organised Style podcast and first aired 4/3/24. The second episode, focusing on the volunteers at The Nest Community, aired 1/4/24 and can be heard on the Sew Organised Style website:
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This is the second part of my conversation with Maria Theoharous in advance of our feed swap next week. In this part we find out just how organised IS the maker of the Sew Organised Style podcast?! Plus we share which of our previous guests have surprised us and how…
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
This is the second instalment of a two-part conversation. Listen to the first part:
Ep. #138: Making Sewing Podcasts with Maria TheoharousMaria Theoharous makes the Sew Organised Style podcast.
Follow Maria on Instagram (@velosews).
Days for Girls is an organisation that attempts to eliminate the stigma and limitations associated with menstruation.
I worked out my manifesto with my friend and former coach, Kim Witten, and encouraged others to do the same in Ep. # 71: Making Personal Manifestos with Kim Witten.
Maria was deeply moved when Denise Archer relayed her experience of living with breast cancer and the after effects.
Birgitta Helmersson surprised me with an Australian accent when we met up to record:
Ep.# 54: A Journey to Zero Waste with Birgitta HelmerssonEp.# 55: The Challenges of Zero Waste Design with Birgitta HelmerssonThe input of the CYT listeners to create the Scrap Strategies episodes have had a direct impact on my sewing.
One day I would love to record a conversation with Zero Waste Daniel!
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Have you ever wondered what it might be like to make a sewing podcast? Maybe not, but I’ve recorded a conversation with fellow sewing podcaster, Maria Theoharous from Sew Organised Style, that will give you some insights anyway!
Maria and I came up with lots of fun and illuminating questions to pose to one another. We talked for so long that we're splitting this chat into two episodes, the second part will come later this week. So press play if you want to know which episodes Maria and I are most proud of, and what mistakes we’ve both made during the making of our podcasts!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Maria Theoharous makes the Sew Organised Style podcast.
Follow Maria on Instagram (@velosews).
At the time of recording, I was making my fourth pair of Ginger jeans.
This isn’t the Chanel-style jacket that Maria was making at time of recording, but it’s a great example of her jacket-making talents!
My mum’s sweatshirt made from scraps:
The Sewcialists was an incredible community blog that focused on sewing. All the previous posts are still available to enjoy.
Susan Young has appeared in many episodes of Sew Organised Style. You can hear them all, including the conversation that helped Maria get her Sewjo back during lockdown.
Maria’s episode with Marcia Lois Riddington (@marcialoisriddington on Instagram) is one that feels very representative of Sew Organised Style’s output.
I am proud of the success of the Seasonal Stash organisation system (Ep. #119). Download the free PDF version.
I was also very happy with Ep. #107: Sewing is Political.
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Whether it’s because you just participated in Me-Made-May, or you’ve recently had a wardrobe sort out, what do you do with the items you find yourself no longer wearing? In this week’s solo episode, I advise you on how to diagnose why you’re not wearing them. I then suggest five different ways you can update those garments so that you’re excited to wear them again!
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Image source: Sarah Brown via Unsplash
If you want to learn more about the Me-Made-May challenge, listen to:
Ep. #84: What is Me-Made-May?The Clothehorse podcast is a great place to learn more about the life of second hand clothing, including what happens to donated items.
The three questions to ask of each item of clothing:
Does it fit my personal aesthetic (OR is it a basic garment that pairs well with items that really DO fit my personal aesthetic)?Does it fit with my lifestyle?Does it fit my body?My five suggested approaches for updated unworn garments (including me-mades):
RepairRefitRemove somethingAdd somethingChange the colourFor repair, consider signing up to the Winter of Care and Repair challenge for motivation.
For advice on how to proceed with a repair, this episode might help:
Ep. #135: How to Triage your Mends with Jeanna WiggerFor refitting assistance, check out this episode:
Ep. #86: Garment Alterations with Naomi FataThe Bernie Belt Bag pattern by Friday Pattern Co. might solve the dilemma of a pocket-free garment:
Image source: Friday Pattern Co.
The free Oversized Detachable Collar pattern by Tilly and the Buttons would really jazz up a plain garment:
Image source: Tilly and the Buttons
If you’re interested in trying your hand at natural dyeing, these episodes provide a ton of information:
Ep. #13: Natural Dyeing with Amy TaylorEp. #52: Grow, Cook, Dye, Wear with Bella Gonshorovitz Ep. #88: Natural Dyeing Q&A with Amy Taylor -
Does the climate and ecological crisis just feel too massive to deal with sometimes? When it all feels so overwhelming, it can be tempting to tap out completely and disengage. That’s totally understandable. However, my guest today, Beedy Parker, shows us that it is entirely possible to participate in climate related activism and action, whilst continuing to lead a happy and exciting life. From attempting to influence legislation to hemming her neighbours' trousers, Beedy has been getting stuck in since 1970. Sadly, we can’t all be Beedy, but we can all take heart and inspiration in her example.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
The leather glove thimble is made in Japan by Little House but it probably sourced most easily via Etsy.
Beedy Parker is a committed naturalist and social and environmental activist living in Maine, USA.
Read more about Beedy (unfortunately this link doesn’t seem to work in Europe, frustrating I know!).
This is another piece about Beedy.
Beedy recommends sourcing a copy of ‘The Needleworker's Constant Companion’, first published in 1978.
I referred to an article by Christina Garton called Weaving While Neurodivergent on the Handwoven Magazine website that is a fascinating read.
Check out Beedy’s pants bags and felted wool slippers:
Wool Yes, Plastic Fleece No By Beedy Parker, Camden, MaineSo how about wool, anyway? Here is a wonderful natural fiber that grows on the backs of gentle animals, who, Shmoo-like,* provide meat and manure, and even milk and cheese. When sheep are rotated through pastures, they improve the land and keep the farm open – and yet, the use of wool for clothing and blankets seems to be disappearing, as are the sheep. People who raise sheep in New England and around the world receive less and less money for their fleeces and must depend solely on the meat market for income. What's been happening in the world of wool?
I went on a woods hike this fall with an environmentally minded group and was surprised to see that everyone else was wearing recycled plastic fleece jackets and pullovers, the same people who, five or 10 years ago, would have been wearing beautiful hand knit sweaters and woolen Maine hunting jackets. Even their mittens and scarfs and caps were mostly synthetic. Well, I guess the weather is warmer these days, and the advertising blitz has been successful, and that "fleece" really is sometimes made of recycled plastic soda bottles, which adds a measure of virtue to the apparel, but is this really what we want to wear?
Do we want to wear "oil," with its unfortunate "cradle-to-grave" trail of pollution? Synthetics made of oil attract their relatives, oily stains and synthetic odors and solvents, the outgassing of other plastics in our environment, and these pollutants sink in and stay. To 5 reveal the true nature of plastics, try this little fiber test (cautiously): Singe a few threads of different fabrics with a lighted match. The cotton (or any vegetable fiber) gives off a pleasant wood smoke odor. Wool smells like the burning hair that it is. Synthetic plastic fabrics melt into a sticky black puddle that gives off noxious fumes, a transformation into its original self, as shocking as the melting of the witch in "The Wizard of Oz." This stuff poisons people when it is mined, when it is refined and manufactured, when it outgasses in normal use, and when it is burned in municipal waste; whereas wool comes out of the land, via photosynthesis and protein synthesis, and when we're done with it, microbes can reintegrate it into the land.
Many things have changed in our lives since the days when wool was the dominant fiber in cold weather countries. We now spend most of our time indoors and in temperature controlled cars; we hardly need coats. We don't walk much and our health suffers accordingly. In the past we trusted our wool jackets and socks that breathed when we sweat; that could shed all but a long soaking rain, and even then, would dry from the inside out from body heat and would continue to keep us warm. It was the survival stuff of the Northern winter! Now we don't seem to need it any more and we have forgotten the simple ways of taking care of it: airing out, brushing (coats and jackets), spot cleaning with soap and water, and a gentle soaking to wash. When sweaters get thrown in the washing machine, they come out shrunk and felted. (Then I buy them at rummage sales and make wonderful slippers out of them.) People now tend to send wool clothing to the dry cleaners, which is expensive and brings home the toxic vapors of the chemicals used in cleaning. And most of us have learned that we shouldn't expose ourselves to the chemicals in moth balls, because they affect people as well as moths. In the days before cheap, sweatshop clothing, we didn't have so many clothes and wore them more, but when you have too many unused woolens, they're vulnerable to the moth that loves still, dark places. With wool, it's often "use it or lose it". Just to jog our memories, here's how to wash wool: Soak for several hours in warm water with mild soap or mild detergent (a bathtub is good for blankets and coats), giving it a swoosh now and then to urge the water through the cloth; rinse gently in warm water till the soap feel is gone; press the water out by hand and hang the item to dry – and dry as flat as possible – on a rack (or a clothesline for blankets). Avoid drastic temperature changes and rough handling while the wool is wet. (It's the shock of agitation and change that creates felt.) Remember that woolens don't need to be washed all the time. Once a season is often enough (honors) and even less for blankets. In the interim, spot clean, shake out, brush and air as needed.
Wool fabrics used to come in many textures and fiber blends: the sturdy, cool Palm Beach fabric of military summer wear, British "Vyella" cotton and wool blends in beautiful prints for shirts and dresses, the linsey-woolsey linen blends of yore, the softness of lambs' wool and silkiness of cashmere. Warm, woven wool blankets become long lasting family heirlooms. Some weaves were light and airy, some tough, hardened and very durable; some were even machine washable. Some people think of wool as itchy and uncomfortable, because woolen underwear was commonly worn in the winter by country people, but now we can afford to wear cotton underwear and shirts next to our skin, with wool on the outside if we are sensitive.
To me, the saddest part of the decline of wool, besides the loss of income and open pasture to our farms, is the loss of a fabric that can be understood and even made, by a child, from fleece to sweater. Compare this to the synthetic, which is a remote and even dangerous mystery, wrapped in patent secrecy. It's like comparing a bicycle where you can see how the peddles, gears and wheels work and feel the centrifugal force that holds the bike steady, as opposed to the increasingly "black box" design of our computerized cars, where you just buy it and drive it. The sheep's fleece can be sheared, washed, carded, spun and knit or woven, all by hand, most of which are pleasant and tranquil activities, encouraging thought and conversation. So consider adding a few wool items to your wardrobe. Think about taking up knitting again (socks are easier than you think). And start saving up for a beautiful Maine-grown blanket. Maybe we can bring back the fleece on our green pastures.
* "Shmoos" were lovable creatures in the "Li'l Abner" comic strip (in the late 1940s) who turned into delicious food, clothing and building material when people looked at them with desire.
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Have you ever found yourself unsure of how to proceed with fixing a damaged garment? The two most common stumbling blocks are knowing what mending technique to use, and knowing what materials are the best choice to create a long lasting repair. Today mending expert Jeanna Wigger and I guide you on how to triage your mending pile and answer those tricky questions. We then go on to respond to some mending dilemmas submitted by patrons of the podcast. By the end of this episode, you’ll have a much clearer idea of how to tackle your next repair.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Find some great pre-owned sewing resources whilst getting essential funds to Palestinians in Gaza via the @destash4palestine Instagram account.
You can follow Jeanna on Instagram @thepeoplesmending.
Listen to my previous conversations with Jeanna about the Winter of Care and Repair challenge:
Ep. #115: Winter of Care and Repair with Jeanna WiggerEp. #132: A Season of Mending with Jeanna WiggerI help you consider the two main approaches to mending:
Ep. #68: Visible Vs Invisible MendingJeanna adopted a ‘hidden in plain sight’ approach to fixing these T-shirts:
Find Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald via her website, and on Instagram @erinlewisfitzgerald.
Hear Erin’s episodes on CYT:
Ep. #39: Modern Mending with Erin Lewis-FitzgeraldEp. #40: Experimend with Erin Lewis-FitzgeraldErin also has an online shop, Modern Mending, where you can find high quality mending supplies.
With help from lovely listeners, we explore the use of fabric scraps:
Ep. #127: Scrap Strategies Part 1Ep. #128: Scrap Strategies Part 2For more info on patching:
Ep. #47: Introduction to PatchingAmy Meissner (@amymeissnerartist) is an Alaskan-based artist.
My recent knee-replacement mend on my son’s joggers:
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Are you interested in mending your clothes but you’re just not sure where to begin? For this episode, we’re taking a different approach to the topic of mending in that this episode is for complete beginners, no prior knowledge of sewing is needed or assumed AT ALL. But for the regular listeners who already engage in sewing and mending, this episode is kind of for you too. It’s an excellent resource to forward on to people in your life who are interested in keeping their clothes in use for longer, and who you feel might be open to learning how to do it for themselves.This episode is one part pep talk, one part practical guide. You’ll be left feeling empowered to start repairing your own clothes.
Support the podcast over on Patreon!
The climate action NGO WRAP has published studies on the impact on keeping our clothes in use for longer.
The items I think you need for a basic but very effective mending kit:
So you’ll need:
Hand sewing needles: try to find a pack that includes needles that range in thickness. Different thicknesses of needle will be suitable for different thicknesses of fabric.Sewing thread: go for reels polyester or 100% cotton thread made by a known brand like Guterman, Meltler or Coats/Moon. Cheap, or very old, sewing threads are liable to break. If you bought a sewing kit that includes some thread, treat yourself to some stronger, higher quality stuff anyway. It’s a good idea to keep a small range of common colours in your kit (black, white, navy, red, grey and cream perhaps) which should cover the majority of your projects, and add other colours to your collection as you require them.Small, sharp scissors or thread snips: a basic, shop-bought sewing kit may or may not include these but they are definitely necessary. Cheap thread snips are available in most haberdasheries, but sharp nail scissors will also do.Pins: a pack/tub of sharp pins is very helpful to keep things in place during your repair or alteration. Only an octopus could successfully complete every project without some pins. Pins that come with little plastic shapes or spheres attached to the end are easier to pick up. Safety pins: a few safety pins in a range of sizes will likely come in very handy. They can be used instead of pins for some projects to keep things in place, and you will be less likely to get stabbed whilst using them. Safety pins are also invaluable for threading elastic through a channel. Seam ripper (AKA stitch ripper/quick unpick): these sharp metal hooks with plastic or wooden handles are useful for removing stitches carefully. Using scissors or snips to do so is more likely to result in holes in the fabric.Additional items and materials to allow you to make patches and expand your repertoire of repairs:
Tape measure: This is for working out how big you need to cut a patch. Fancier, retractable tape measurements are available if you wish, but the basic kind that you sometimes win in Christmas crackers is also fine! Tailors chalk or fabric marking pen/pencil: This is for drawing out the size and shape of the patch you require before cutting it out. There is a wide range of fabric marking tools available. From the basic triangle shaped tailor’s chalks, to chalk wheels that dispense chalk dust, to marker pens with ink that disappears when you iron it. They all do a similar job, so buy whichever appeals to you and see if you like using it. Fabric scissors: they are going to make cutting fabric to create patches a joy. Using other types of scissors such as paper scissors or kitchen scissors is an option of course, but using blunt or unsuitable scissors for the task will be frustrating and may damage the fabric. So use non-fabric scissors at your own risk.Fabric scraps: As you can imagine, these are to make the actual patches. You’ll need a variety of types of fabric, basically try to gather a selection that represent the types of fabrics you’d find in your wardrobe, seeing as those are the items you’ll be fixing. It is particularly useful to have scraps of denim, T-shirt jersey and stable, woven cotton (like shirt fabric). Fabric scraps can be harvested from old garments that are beyond repair. Iron: this will allow you to improve the finished look of your repair. It is also essential for making neat patches, and at a later date using fusible interfacing if that’s something you eventually get round to. Make sure the base (the soleplate) is clean and free from any burnt-on residue. Keep a piece of light-weight, 100% cotton woven fabric with your iron to use as a pressing cloth. Ironing board: obviously goes hand-in-hand with an iron, but I’ve always found it can also provide a useful surface for resting your project on whilst you work. A heat resistant surface like a kitchen worktop covered with a clean towel can be a substitute at a pinch.And lastly, a couple of useful additions:
Buttons: obviously it’s great when you can catch a button that’s coming loose rather than completely falling off and getting lost, then the buttons will on your garment will all continue to match. But as well all know, that isn’t always the case. So keep a little selection of standard looking buttons in a variety of colours and sizes. Some buttons have two or four holes in them, other buttons have a bit that sticks out with a hole through which is called a shank. Like fabric scraps, buttons can be harvested from old clothes, and make sure to keep any spares that come attached to your shop-bought clothing. Iron-on patches: if you like the look of ready-made, iron-on patches, then they are a great tool for quickly covering up a hole or stain. If you see any that appeal to you, buy them to have on hand.Common repair tasks and resources for guidance:
Stitching a button on:
This video by Treasurie shows the three different types of button.
Repairing the broken stitching in a seam:
This video by Rokolee DIY shows both back stitch and a ladder stitch techniques.
Repairing a hem:
This video by GreenecoStyle shows the blind stitch approach to fixing an invisible hem.
If the original stitching at the hem is visible, then I’d recommend a backstitch to replicate the look of sewing machine stitching.
This video by Sewn Company shows how to do backstitching more neatly.
Repairing a tear:
This video by Rokolee DIY shows how to use a whipstitch to close the tear by bringing the edges back together and use a scrap of fabric on the inside to stabilise the repair at the same time. This is a good idea if the tear has occurred in an area of weakened fabric.
This video by @elhrfy shows a more challenging approach but shows how you can effectively deal with a tear in fabric that probably occurred when the garment got caught on something and the surrounding fabric is in good condition.
To Repair a hole or stabilise a worn out area:
This video by This Little Farmhouse walks you through how to make a patch that goes behind the hole.
Katrina Rodabaugh’s book ‘Mending Matters’ is an excellent resource for making and applying both external and internal patches.
This blog post by Indestructables includes two methods, an iron-on no-sew approach, and a hand-stitched approach:
Other books:
‘Modern Mending’ by Erin Lewis-FitzGerald‘Mend it, Wear it, Love it!’ by me (Zoe Edwards)Check out these other episode of CYT:
Ep. #47: Introduction to PatchingEp. #68: Visible Vs Invisible MendingHappy mending!
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Mending your clothes to keep them in use for longer is a vital part of sewing and living more sustainably. But how can we amplify the positive impact of mending our clothes? Answer: By mending them in public! By mending in public, not only are you reducing the annual carbon and water footprint of your clothing, but you’re helping to normalise these actions for other people! On the 20th April 2024 hundreds of mending in public events took place around the globe, the endeavour having been initiated by the Fashion Revolution movement in collaboration with the Street Stitching movement. I attended an event hosted by Diana Uprichard, owner of Dolly Clothing in Lewes, East Sussex, and I got to see first hand the positivity and power of mending in public. In this episode, you’ll hear from five different people I spoke to at the event, each with their own unique angle on why it’s so meaningful.
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Support the podcast over on Patreon!
Check out the Seated Makes Challenge on IG #seatedmakeschallenge2024.
Mending in Public day was organised by Fashion Revolution in collaboration with the Street Stitching movement.
Diana Uprichard is the owner of Dolly Clothing in Lewes, East Sussex UK. They can also be found on Instagram (@dolly_clothing).
Melissa with her grey cardigan with its ongoing repairs:
Attendee Sarah Elwick (@sarahelwick) on the left with Mica Janiv (@micajaniv), sustainable business consultant.
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