Episódios
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Ben Mayforth’s strength is a sight to behold. The professional paraclimber’s social clips of campusing double digit boulder problems may have made it into your social feed, but his story runs much deeper than any grade or route. It’s a story of hard work, belonging and finding a path in the world.
Forerunner features Alex Johnson
Adapted Part 1 and Part 2 features Mo Beck
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Altitude Climbing Learn the three key elements needed to make progress again from Dave Macleod. Sign-up for the course at altitudeclimbing.com/climbinggold
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Last summer, Alex and Tommy Caldwell rode bikes from Estes Park, Colorado to SE Alaska where they boarded a sailboat which dropped them beneath the fabled Devil’s Thumb. Their adventure is now a film on Disney+, but a lot of the experience got left on the cutting room floor. We sat down with Tommy and their photographer/wingman, Taylor Shaffer, to dive deeper into the journey.
The Devil's Climb trailer
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Altitude Climbing Learn the three key elements needed to make progress again from Dave Macleod. Sign-up for the course at altitudeclimbing.com/climbinggold.
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Tucked away in a corner of Chilean Patagonia, Valle Cochamó wasn’t going to stay hidden forever. The soaring unclimbed granite walls instilled dreams of first ascents in climbers. Industrialists eyed its free flowing rivers with their potential for hydroelectric power. Conservationists hoped it could provide a final puzzle piece of an incredible protected wildlife corridor. To the families who live there, it was simply home where they ranched amidst the 3,000-year-old Alerce trees. This is the story of how a coalition of Chilean gauchos, climbers and activists fought off development efforts for two decades. Now there is an opportunity for a lasting conservation victory. How do you make the next Yosemite? You start by buying it.
Donate today: https://bit.ly/SavingCochamo
This episode was produced in collaboration with The Dirtbag Diaries. Listen to all episodes on Apple Podcasts or Spotify
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Altitude Climbing Learn the three key elements needed to make progress again from Dave Macleod. Sign-up for the course at altitudeclimbing.com/climbinggold.
Henson Shaving Use link and enter CLIMBINGGOLD at checkout to get 100 free blades with your purchase. (Note: you must add both the 100-blade pack and the razor for the discount to apply.)
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5.13 at 78. That’s staggering, but the numbers don’t capture the breadth of Jamie Logan’s climbing career, which now spans seven decades. Through every chapter of our sport, Jamie has been a contributor from pioneering free climbing in the 1960’s to leading design trends of the modern gym. The risk she took in her 70’s may ultimately prove to be the most lasting pillar of her legacy. Never be afraid of who you are.
Watch Jamie film at bit.ly/JamieLogan
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Alpinist and photographer Cory Richards was living at full speed. A steady stream of Himalayan expeditions and assignments from National Geographic kept him relentlessly moving around the world. Meanwhile, his long struggle with bi-polar disorder, PTSD, alcoholism, and sex addiction hit new lows until Cory’s world came undone. Today, Cory’s stepped away from both climbing and photography, has written two books and in a lot of ways, is happier than he’s ever been.
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Altitude Climbing Enroll in Hazel’s brand new course to overcome fear of falling and learn more about the 7 signs of fear at altitudeclimbing.com/climbinggold.
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El Cap. Free. In a day. Putting those words on your resume puts you in the league of legends. How did that become the bar? Lynn Hill. A singular athlete who stepped up to the biggest stage in climbing, Lynn redefined what was athletically possible not just for her generation, but generations to come. Emily Harrington and Beth Rodden add their perspective on the momentous achievement.
“It Goes Boys” poster
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Altitude Climbing: Sign up for a free mini-training that Hazel and Altitude have put together to bust some of the biggest myths and faulty advice when it comes to overcoming fear of falling at altitudeclimbing.com/climbinggold
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Ms. 5.15 – that was the moniker the climbing world bestowed on Margo Hayes after she became the first woman to climb the grade. Two more 5.15’s followed and Margo seemed poised to be a defining climber of her generation. Yet, in the background, Margo was quietly struggling with Lyme disease and exploring other interests when she wasn’t healthy enough to give climbing her all. What does a professional climber owe their sport, their community, and what do they owe themselves?
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While most of the elite climbing world has turned its attention to raw difficulty in sport and bouldering, Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have been carrying the torch for hard, sometimes dangerous, traditional climbing. We talk about Eternal Flame, managing risk and getting sandbagged in Yosemite.
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Beth Rodden started climbing in 1995, and it wasn’t long before she radically changed the sport. Within three years, she’d become the first woman to climb 5.14; within five, she established a still unrepeated free route on Yosemite’s El Capitan. Today, Beth is making waves in a different way: by leading the climbing community in difficult, vulnerable conversations. Fitz chats with Beth about her new book, A Light Through The Cracks, and what it means to live a big life.
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After a protracted battle over bolts and sport climbing, American climbers nearly lost the ability to climb on public lands in the early 1990s. It would have completely altered the course of our sport. Fortunately, lawyer and climber Armando Menocal rose to the challenge of protecting climbing for generations to come, despite the fact that many climbers hoped he would fail. We take a peek into the early days of the Access Fund and Leici Hendrix adds perspective on the importance of local climbing organizations.
Armando Menocal Climbing Advocacy Fund
Originally aired in 2021.
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In 1986, a rag-tag group of dirtbags including Beth Wald, Russ Clune and Todd Skinner came up with a scheme to go behind the Iron Curtain with the goal of competing in the Soviet Union's speed climbing competition. It was audacious as any cutting edge climb. Originally aired in 2021.
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Adieu Paris. After a week at the Olympic games, Alex and the team reflect on an incredible moment for climbing and its brightest competitors.
Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
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The Tomoa Skip. The Chinese Top. Records are falling and what is fast this year will be middle of the pack next year. For competitors Emma Hunt, Piper Kelly, and Sam Watson, they are in the midst of a golden moment for their chosen discipline. For the climbers leading the charge, what’s beyond personal bests and world records? And how will the climbers apply these incredible skills beyond the 15-meter route?
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Records are falling. Beta is getting tweaked. We’ve entered the sub five second era of speed climbing. The athleticism is off the charts and the format is friendly to the viewing public. Despite that, what happens on the 15 meter speed wall seems to be a sideshow to the greater climbing community. How did speed climbing arrive at this moment? We are joined by legends Hans Florine, Jacky Godoffe, and Olympians Sam Watson, Piper Kelly and Emma Hunt.
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Paris here we go. Today, we dive into what to expect, the stories that will define the games, and the Olympics’ impact on our sport. Plus we make our picks and learn what the deal is with Team Japan.
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The weight of expectations is real. Today, Olympians Natalia Grossman and Jesse Grupper share their journey through the highs and lows of winning and losing. Even when you're winning, the road to Paris is a difficult path.
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At only 23, Brooke Raboutou has established herself as one of the best climbers indoors and out. While that’s taken an extreme amount of talent and dedication, Brooke and two other Olympians, Natalia Grossman and Colin Duffy, are graduates of a groundbreaking approach to climbing created by Brooke’s mom Robyn Ebersfield-Raboutou. Climbing has a lot to teach about life.
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Yes, the Olympics are entertainment, but they can also transcend sport. Ukrainian climber Jenya Kazbekova carries a weight few competitors have to shoulder. Two years into Russia’s unprovoked attack on her home, Jenya is channeling the strength of her country into competing in Paris. She just hopes the world doesn’t forget Ukraine.
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What’s Ashima Shiraishi been up to? Since she was eight, Ashima made waves with staggering ascents beyond her years. In 2021, Ashima helped bring us into the mind of a competitor walking us through in meticulous detail of what it’s like to compete in a World Cup. Today, we reshare that short segment and then find out about Ashima’s new path through climbing far from the spotlight of the competitive circuit.
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When we think of cutting edge climbing, we think of cutting edge athleticism. But what about the mental side? The true test of finishing the world’s most difficult routes may not come down to strength, but mental fitness. Today, we are joined by Jonathan Siegrist to discuss the mental hurdles climbers experience. Sometimes you have to let go to hang on.
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