Episódios
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In this episode, Kyra and Allison break down Kyra’s performance at the first World Cup of the season, where she made semifinals and finished tied for 11th—a strong start to the year. The following weekend brought the season’s first Lead World Cup, packed with fast-paced action and drama. From route setting and rule changes to performance mindset, they unpack it all with their insider perspective as athletes.
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In this episode, supported by OCÚN, Kyra is fresh off competing with the new scoring format at Team Trials. Kyra and Allison together unpack what they missed when they talked about it before actually experiencing it, and how it might change the sport moving forward. They wonder how World Cups will be impacted and get excited for the season to officially start with Kyra heading to China just a few days after this episode was recorded.
Then they dive into the latest Olympic announcement: three medals will be awarded for Sport Climbing in LA28 with 76 total athlete spots across lead, boulder, and speed. They take a few educated guesses at how the selection might work, and what this shift means for climbers who’ve traditionally excelled in more than one discipline.
Along the way, they veer into a quick race walking and x games tangents, chat about the Olympics as a brand, and talk about Brooke Raboutou's impressive First Female Ascent of Excalibur, 5.15c, becoming the first woman to climb a route of that grade.
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In this episode, Kyra and Allison had the pleasure of going to the Tension Climbing shop in Denver, Colorado and chatting with Will Anglin before their flight home about how the Tension brand started and how he developed the Tension Board 2 (aka the TB2). It was fascinating to learn about the process, starting from learning from lessons with their first product (the TB1), to creating holds digitally, setting the board, and then working within constraints to finally get what we now see in gyms across the entire country and world. Will sprinkles in some of his own philosophy and vast climbing wisdom throughout, enjoy!
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In this episode, Kyra chats with Jesse Grupper, her good friend, roommate, and fellow Olympian. Jesse and Kyra start off by sharing some insight into their house and their similarities and differences when it comes to training mindset and planning. Jesse shares his thoughts about being an "underdog" in the past and how its helped him push himself and his limits while achieving benchmarked goals along the way. They then talk about how that's changed throughout the years. Jesse shares insight into why he feels so restless on rest days and him and Kyra chat about how climbers can try to use their platform to make a positive impact.
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In this episode (episode 50!!) Kyra and Allison debate and explain the new scoring system being implemented in IFSC and many other international and national events. There are big changes this year, where the old tops and zones format was changed to purely be point based. Kyra and Allison lightly disagree about how they define the "best" climber in a round; is it the climber getting the most tops or the climber consistently getting the farthest on all the climbs? Listen to find out! Comment to let us know your thoughts!
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In this episode of Circle Up!, Kerry Scott shares her journey through the ups and downs of her climbing career. She talks about transitioning from competitions to outdoor climbing—and then back again—and how moving across the country to work in the climbing industry influenced her path.
Kerry reflects on the pressure she felt to downplay her competitive side, something she realized wasn’t encouraged in young women the way it often is in men, something both Kyra and Allison heavily relate to. She also tells the story of how training for lead climbing unexpectedly turned her into a boulderer.
Throughout the episode, Kyra and Allison share their own thoughts and insights, adding their perspectives on competition, outdoor climbing, and what it means to find purpose in the sport. It’s a thoughtful conversation about balancing ambition and the joy of climbing.
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In this episode of Circle Up!, Kyra and Allison revisit a conversation Kyra had with Dan about climbing with a romantic partner—this time, flipping the script and asking Allison for her take. The two dive into the nuances of sharing projects, time, and training with someone you’re dating, leading to a bigger discussion on how relationships intersect with high-level climbing. Then, Kyra breaks down her experience at a recent grip competition in LA, what she learned, and why grip sport might actually be a secret weapon for climbing performance. Tune in for a mix of deep conversation, laughs, and some unexpected takeaways! There was a technical difficulty while filming/recording this episode so they had to re-record the end--sorry for the difference in sound!!
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In this episode, Kyra is joined by Dan Beall (who's stepping in for Allison while she's off crushing boulders in Vegas) and together they dive into the moments when they first saw major breakthroughs in their own climbing and talk about what they believe made the difference. Then, they explore a common challenge among climbers: truly trying hard. Many unknowingly hold themselves back in training, stopping short of their full potential because unlocking 100% effort can be uncomfortable and . Kyra and Dan share insights on how to push harder, embrace a "glass half full" mindset, and get the most out of every session.
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In this episode, Kyra is joined by returning guest Dan Beall to tackle some big questions: What are tactics, really? How can you best support your romantic partner while climbing? And how do you adjust expectations when health or life complications shift your plans?
They bring up common mistakes to avoid both indoors and out while talking about tactics and both share how they focus when they find themselves thinking too much. They swap opinions on what makes the best climbing gyms, with Kyra making the case for why a little grunge adds character. They also open up about how their unique health situations have shaped their expectations and approach to climbing.
When the conversation shifts to climbing trips they talk about how to navigate group dynamics, the challenge of balancing priorities when climbing partners are at different levels, and how romantic partners can best support each other on and off the wall. Plus, Kyra shares what it’s been like to start something new (and a little scary): her YouTube channel and relates it to Dan's dive into making a private coaching business. -
In this episode, Kyra sits down with Campbell Harrison, Australian Olympic climber and passionate advocate for athlete representation, to explore a wide range of topics. They discuss the impacts of social media on their careers and mental health, and how it can be especially challenging following the Olympic explosion in popularity. They talk about the outdoor industry as a whole, and how climbing stars may be outgrowing the scope of the climbing industry in years to come. The conversation then delves into the challenge of advocating for topics that are close to the chest and putting what is best for the group above what is best for yourself. throughout the episode, Kyra and Campbell discuss the all-too-familiar struggle of fighting the inner voice that creates guilt around taking necessary rest days, indulging in small joys, or stepping back from the grind to focus on holistic well-being.
**They discuss drinking alcohol and taking time off drinking, so if this is a sensitive topic for you, skip 27:00-32:45. -
In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into their lesser known backgrounds as lead climbers and how it has shaped their skills as primarily boulderers. They share their favorite exercises and drills for training endurance and discuss why reflecting on your goals can help you modify your training to stay on track.
They explore the challenges of climbing well while pumped, overcoming fear to push your limits, and the value of rest and focused attempts over grinding through fatigue. Whether you’re aiming to train for a specific goal or just want ideas on how to switch up your training, this episode has plenty of actionable takeaways for climbers of all levels! -
In this Episode, Kyra Condie and Dan Beall went into the recent top posts from r/climbharder and talked about some of the topics and themes they saw reoccur in recent hot posts. They talk about how, if you want to, to avoid "life as a mediocre climber" and what small changes and tweaks you can make to your attitude and everyday schedule to improve your climbing. Then, they break down the art of projecting—what it truly means to push your limits and challenge yourself on a climb. Plus, they debate whether anyone could climb V15 in perfect conditions, if Kyra has what it takes to dunk a basketball, and which training exercises are criminally underrated (or totally overrated).
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In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into listener questions from their Patreon, covering everything from building finger strength and improving crimp endurance to valuable lessons learned from their youth competition days. The conversation meanders through a variety of related topics, including when to consult a PT—whether for an injury or strength training, current trends in climbing science, and how climbing parents can stay engaged and advocate for safe, inclusive environments within youth teams.
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In this episode Kyra brings on her parents once again to talk about what they do to support her at competitions and how they supported her dream of becoming a professional climber. Currently being in Santiago at the Panamerican Championships, they talk about specifics around supporting Kyra while at an event. Later, Tom, Kyra’s dad provides some insight into his theory of providing guardrails but casting a wide net of possibilities for your kid, while Cathy, Kyra’s mom, shares some of her own upbringing that led to her unwavering support and belief in what her kids were capable of.
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In this episode, Kyra Condie and guest Dan Beall use Dan's experience with overcoming catastrophic injuries to give some advice when facing adversity in sport. They talk about Dan's shoulder dislocation and accompanying nerve damage that left him without a clear path to recovery and how he dealt with that, both mentally and physically. They also explore the nuances of confidence versus mastery, and how a delicate balance of the two can lead to an enjoyable experience for some (not all) on highball boulders, as well as how to confront fear in a safe and productive way. They finish by talking about the most common training plan mistakes Dan sees in his coaching and provide some tips to maximize your learning potential during each climbing session.
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This week, Kyra and Allison get real about the struggle to balance their climbing obsession with the reality of needing rest days. The talk about the challenges of having a never-ending season both in competitions and with outdoor climbing (something is always "in-season") and how hard it can be to time things correctly between varying schedules and time windows. They chat about trying to stay in peak shape through that never-ending season and share some of their own experiments with training schedules to figure out what works for them and their goals. Finally, they take a fun trip down memory lane, back to the PanAmerican Youth Championships where Kyra and Allison first met, and Allison got to compete as a Canadian citizen for the first time.
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In this episode, Kyra recounts her past two trips to Rocklands, South Africa for climbing trips and how she approached her third one differently than the first two. She remembers some lessons learned from her first trip in 2016, what she did wrong (like switching birth control right before leaving), what she would have done differently, and how that changed her whole approach to climbing outside in general. Sometimes, finding what motivates you is the most important.
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In this episode of the Beta & Banter series Kyra and Allison chat about how to deal with a self deprecating climbing partner, when (and how) to avoid an ex at the climbing gym, and how does all that advice carry over to climbing with your romantic partner. other questions included what their opinions are of the recent age limit change in IFSC and how an unfunded athlete does the World Cup series. Tune in to hear all of their advice, beta, and banter!
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In this episode, Allison and Kyra dive into the tricky world of climbing etiquette and ethics—both indoors and outdoors. From navigating social situations, like approaching someone with headphones in at the gym or downgrading someones "first of the grade", to managing the vibe at the crag when loud music takes over; they break down common dilemmas. Tune in as they explore how to balance personal preferences with respect for the climbing community, offering insights and practical tips for climbers of all levels.
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In this episode Kyra and Allison dive into the exciting world of paraclimbing and its growth into becoming a Paralympic sport. Special guest Mo Beck, a 2X World Champion Paraclimber and 10 time AU2 Paraclimbing National Champion, shares her experiences and insights on the growth of adaptive climbing, the challenges and triumphs of competing at the highest level, and her professional climbing career. Mo discusses her journey, the incredible athletes in the sport, and how the paraclimbing community continues to grow.
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