Episódios
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Peat moss is used for terrestrial plants both indoors and outdoors. It is spongy and holds enough water without being sopping wet, and is derived from digested Sphagnum moss, making it organic.
Most people say that peat is not a renewable resource and therefore should not be used. And it turns out…most people would be correct.
Really I think the confusion is peat moss vs. sphagnum moss
Peat moss usually has that texture that you imagine when you think of moss. It’s thin and bright green, sort of like turf. If you touched it or walked on it, you can expect it to be wet and squishy. It contains more water than sphagnum.
Sphagnum moss could be wet and squishy too, but it doesn’t resemble turf. Instead, it grows noticeable fibers.
Peat Moss and Sphagnum Moss are basically the same plant. Read that again. They are part of the same plant.
While both peat moss and sphagnum moss come from the same plant, the moss grows in different circumstances, the surface of the soil versus in the water, but it is still the same moss.
Peat moss and sphagnum moss are two sides of the same coin, so to speak. Depending on where the moss was growing determines how we refer to it once it’s packaged for sale to the public. I would guess most folks don’t know the difference.
Peat Moss will be banned, or the sale of peat, in EU in 2024.
Remember, peat forms very slowly in cool wetlands as sphagnum moss decays. The bogs are called "carbon sinks" due to the massive amounts of carbon they store—far more than trees. When peat moss is harvested, carbon dioxide is released, and carbon dioxide is a significant contributor to climate change. While some scientists view peat bogs as a possible aid in reversing climate change, the very increases in heat and drought brought about by climate change may destroy the bogs.
The industry says it harvests less than 2% of the existing supply each year and that this reasonably low collection amount keeps up with demand. But even though that doesn't sound like a lot, harvested areas can't recover quickly enough for peat to be considered a renewable resource. * this is everyones hang up
Additionally bogs are also known as carbon houses. I read that some data suggests that once a bog is harvested a little or a lot, it can take up to 40 years for carbon to stop being emitted.
SO this is why folks are saying that peat moss is contributing, or the harvesting of peat moss is contributing to global warming.
Carbon compounds regulate the Earth’s temperature. Carbon also provides us energy.
How is peat harvested?
Peat moss is harvested from bogs and fens around the world, but primarily in Canada and Russia. These water-logged bogs have taken carbon from the atmosphere and sequestered it for 10,000 to 12,000 years, according to Linda Brewer, soil scientist in the Department of Horticulture in OSU's College of Agricultural Sciences
INCREDIBLE article on Peat Moss and where some of the above information was sourced.
https://phys.org/news/2022-12-harvesting-peat-moss-contributes-climate.html
https://www.noaa.gov/education/resource-collections/climate/carbon-cycle
Chime in! Thoughts?
Find us on Socials
Angela @axeandroothomestead
Mandi @wildoakfarms
Cheers! -
Emergencies on your Homestead // Does this lifestyle make you tough?
Where you started vs now?
How have you changed? Have you changed? Advice for those starting out.
Join us as we sit down and have more of an overall conversation about the above.
It is important to reflect as the years go by, make changes, remember what didn't work and what does.
Here are a few stats that we talk about.1in 5 Americans live in rural America- a non metropolitan area.
Mostly, Americans live roughly 10 miles from the nearest grocery store and major hospital. However that does vary from state to state with some being far more drastic (100 miles) and some much closer (2 miles)
Grocery store distance median is 7 miles
What do you think about the perception that farmers/homesteaders don’t care for their animals? What is your take on this given you don’t consume meat.
It was a good one. Thank you for listening!
As always find us on socials for more!
Angela @axeandroothomestead
Mandi @wildoakfarms -
Estão a faltar episódios?
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Season 5: Episode 3 / Natives, Growing Zones, Microclimates
What is a native species?
According to US Forest Service:
“Native plants are the indigenous terrestrial and aquatic species that have evolved and occur naturally in a particular region, ecosystem, and habitat. Species native to North America are generally recognized as those occurring on the continent prior to European settlement.”
What is an invasive species?
From US Forest Service:
“An "invasive species" is defined as a species that is
Non-native (or alien) to the ecosystem under consideration; and,Whose introduction causes or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health. (Executive Order 13112).”Why are invasive species considered bad?
According ot US Forest Service: “Invasive species have contributed to the decline of 42% of U.S. endangered and threatened species, and for 18% of U.S. endangered or threatened species, invasives are the main cause of their decline.”Source: https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/invasives/index.shtml
Invasive species can out-compete native and exotics alike for sunlight, space, soil nutrients, and water. Because they are so successful to their aggressive root systems and ability to produce mass amounts of seed very quickly, they can take over agricultural spaces, forest and prairie lands, and reduce food/habitats that local wildlife depends on. These invasives can change the balance of the natural ecosystem.
*Bradford pear tree example
Are exotic or non-native plant choices bad?
This is the topic of much debate. It is the opinion of many permaculture practitioners to first look to natives so solve a particular challenge or provide food. If that option does not exist, exotics may be used so long as they are not considered invasive. What is a growing zone?The US is divided into regions with regards to their last date of frost. The shorter your winter, the higher your going zone is. If you experience long winters with late last dates of frost, you’ll have a low growing zone number. US growing zones typically range from 3 in cold climates to 11 in hot climates. These regions and growing zone numbers help to determine which plants are best suited to your location.
USDA just updated growing zones across the country for 2024. Find your zone on the USDA Plant Zone Hardiness Map here: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/
What is a microclimate?
A microclimate is a small portion of a garden, forest, or other growing space that has different temperature, humidity, air circulation, sunlight exposure, soil content, and/or moisture levels than other areas immediately surrounding it. This could be due to thermal mass from structures, changes in terrain, proximity to other larger plantings, etc.
Macroclimate: refers to the larger climate patterns of a region. For me I try to think about a large growing plot, like acres or miles of corn. This *can still be a microclimate in spots, spots that flood, spots that are shaded.
More examples are below.
Examples:
Growing differences on hillsides or hilltops vs. valleys on the same property
Growing differences under a maple tree vs. outside the maple tree
Growing differences created in within a few feet of an exterior wall of your home vs. 20 feet away
Think about this- maybe we should consider our microclimate more so than our actual growing zone. We know that this goes against everything we once read when we started our first garden. But hear me out. You can alter your specific
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Season 5, Episode 2 / To Deworm or Not to Deworm
Permaculture Perspective
Employ Rotational Grazing methods to manage worm populations
Animals should have enough forage for 5-7 days, roughlyAnimals enter when grass forages reach 8-10” and legume forages reach 10-12”Never allow animals to graze the forage below 4”. This slows forage regrowth and encourages parasite ingestion otherwiseA full rotation supplies 21-28 days before animals re-enter the original paddockPasture rest and sunlight exposure are essential for regrowth, and dropping larvae egg countsEmploy Co-Species Grazing methods
Goats and sheep share parasites. Those species do not share with horses, cows, and birdsDifferent species eat different forages and forage portions, ensuring all forage is evenly grazedBirds are essential–they break apart manure piles looking for worms, insects, larvae, etc.Effects of Dewormer on Ecosystem
Dewormers are harmful to dung beetle populations which are an important part of ecosystemExcessive/unnecessary deworming builds resistance within animalsDeworming products can effect non-targeted worms once contact is made with the soil just as earthwormsALWAYS RUN FECAL COUNTS AT ANNUAL CHECK UPS! Learn Famacha scale for goats and sheep, interact with animals to detect any abnormalities, and walk your pastures to monitor forage heights and type!
Medically, if you take a listen the "different" viewpoints line up. Husbandry and medicine go hand in hand when it comes to parasite control and prevention.
Refugia is a confusing term that you may hear surrounding the topic of deworming and goats. Refugia essentially means (in this particular topic) the parasites that are in refuge from the drugs used to treat them. Similar to treating heavy shedders in a horse herd.
Resistance in this case is the genetic ability of parasites to survive treatment with an antiparasitic drug that was generally effective against those parasites in the past.References:
Prevent Parasites Through Grazing Management
(Penn State Extension)
https://extension.psu.edu/prevent-parasites-through-grazing-management
Dewormer Resistance
(Cornell)
https://cals.cornell.edu/nys-4-h-animal-science-programs/livestock/goats/goat-educational-resources/dewormer-resistance
Social// Instagram:
Angela: @axeandroothomestead
Mandi: @wildoakfarms
*This is not professional veterinary advice, please always work with your trusted veterinarian. -
After a long Summer break, Angela and Mandi are BACK!
Join us as we catch everyone up to speed, chat about "seasons" in homesteading. Maybe it is because we are seasoned? Real life conversation just like we are sitting down with you on your homestead.
Cheers to you all!
Find us on social channels!
Angela: @axeandroothomestead
Mandi: @wildoakfarms -
Peas: Can be sown when soil temps are between 40 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Shelling peas: for storage
Snap peas: fresh eating
Sweet peas: flowers, not edible
Sow ¼-½” deep in well draining soil. Keep moist through germination and while growing.
Trellis is required.
Peas have thigmotropism: the ability to feel with sense of touch
Radish: Can be sown when soil temps reach 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Pay attention to radish size, depth, and soil needs when planting.
Grow very quickly!
Carrots: Very difficult to germinate
Seed tape vs. sowing seeds – heavily sow and thin if needed
Keep moist until sprouting (the board trick)
Growing temps of around 40 degrees are great for sweeter tasting carrots
Carrots require fluffy soil with good tilth. Rocks in soil make squiggly carrots.
Bok Choi/Pak Choi/Bok Choi:
Prefers temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees fahrenheit
Prone to flea beetles; use coffee grounds in soil at planting time
Keep moist and cool, provide shade cloth if needed
Beets and Turnips:
Sow typically a few weeks before last frost. Requires temperatures in 40s to germinate and sprout. Keep moist. Sow heavily and thin as needed. Greens and roots are edible. Pay attention to variety for root size–some will never reach larger than a golf ball!
Spinach:
Sow 6 weeks before last frost. Prefers cold temps! Excellent for direct sowing when soil is workable, though does well started in seed cells too.
Crop is ready in as little as 6 weeks from harvest.
Spring Onions:
Plant in cool weather, but only when nighttime temps no longer fall in the 20Fs. Plant no more than one inch deep in seed cells or when direct sowing to avoid root growth restriction. Sow heavily and thin as needed.
Strawberries:
Plant bare root crowns and mulch surrounding soil with straw as soon as the soil can be worked. Be sure to identify desired variety; everbearing or June-bearing.
Calendula:
Cold season herb. Flowers are medicinal. Can be grown in spring and fall.
Remember! Some of this might be applicable to you now or in a few weeks. Either way we hope we have encouraged you to get out in your gardens and start growing something beautiful.
Cheers.
Angela- @axeandroothomestead
Mandi- @wildoakfarms -
This is likely one of many chats between the both of us about our Livestock Guardian dogs.
One of many.
Stay tuned for more to come! Cheers.
Angela @axeandroothomestead
Mandi @wildoakfarms -
The brassica family includes cole crops, descendants of the mustard family and wild cabbages. This includes broccoli, cauliflower, romanesco, kale, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and collards.
(cabbage is actually a member of the mustard family- but we lump it into brassicas!)
Soil and TemperatureThese crops prefer well drained soil, kept moist. The seeds require slight warmth to germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit or more, but prefer to grow in cool conditions. If grown in peak summer, and not provided with cooling shade, they’ll bolt. Bolting means going to seed, or sending up flower heads before a true crop is produced for harvest.
Tip: Know your growing environment! If your temperatures where you are seeding stay in the 60-70 range you may not need any bottom heat for germination. If you do use heat mats (and we do!) just remember to remove the trays when you have germination. Forgetting to do so can contribute to weak and leggy seedlings.
When to Sow and TransplantSow 6-8 weeks before last date of frost in seed trays. Direct sow when temperatures are warmer. Can be transplanted out three to two weeks before last frost date when left unprotected. If row cover or a hoop house is provided, can transplant into the garden much earlier.
Tip: Grow where you have NOT grown like crops in the past couple of years- this goes for the whole brassica family.
It is safe to generalize the statement that brassicas want a soil pH of about 6-7.
Tip: I have found over the years that crops like broccoli and cabbage enjoy a little “extra love” when the plants are in your garden and roughly 4-5 inches tall. We side dress with some well aged compost.
Growing and Harvesting
Harvest broccoli and cauliflower when heads reach roughly 5” across, variety dependent. To blanch cauliflower heads, tie the leaves residing directly below the head together above the crown. This will blanch the cauliflower for a whiter color. According to some folks, as brussels sprouts grow, leaves can be pruned off to allow more sunlight to reach the small cabbage heads along the stalk. This is said to increase sprout size. Cabbage should be harvested before the head splits, usually at around 6” in size (again variety dependent).
Kale
Note the kale experiment PerennialTroubleshooting: Any damage (usually pest related or rough handling when removing pests) to the central growing point can lead to a stunted or no head growth. The outer leaves will still grow so it may seem “okay” but they too will be tough and non-edible.
Perennial choices exist for brassicas:
Angela purchases her’s here:
https://plantingjustice.org/product-category/perennial-tree-kales-collards/
9 Star Broccoli (bushing growth habit and is white like cauliflower)Tree CollardsWalking Stick KaleDaubenton's KaleKosmik Perennial KalePests: Slugs, snails, cabbage moths
Companion planting broccoli with garlic, chives and nasturtium helps to deter cabbage moths. Plant thickly.Mulching the garden is great but leave a small bit of soil exposed around the stem of brassicas to avoid slug and snail access
To deter cabbage moths, use row cover before moths appear throughout the growing season-Tip: Spend 10 minutes a day with a morning tea or coffee and pick off any cabbage worms (small green worm like terrible creatures) and dispose. We also like to keep a butterfly net in garden storage to catch any you miss!
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We had the extreme honor of speaking with the incredible Dr. Temple Grandin today. She is not only a pioneer in the Agriculture industry as a whole, but an advocate for animal welfare and husbandry, and she has written over 60 scientific papers.
On today's podcast we discuss one of her latest published papers:
Grazing Cattle, Sheep, and Goats are Important Parts of a Sustainable Agriculture Future.
https://www.mdpi.com/2076-2615/12/16/2092
You all. She is brilliant. Even if you don't farm or homestead, her information is applicable to all. After all, we all live on the same planet Earth.
Enjoy!
Ps! Another incredible piece to this story is Temple wrote the forward to Angela's book - The Sustainable Homestead- which comes out March 28th, 2023!
https://a.co/d/0kCFOCV - Preorder her book here! -
Starting onions from seed:
Onion seeds are tiny little black seeds. Go figure, they are like more than 50% of
other seeds.
They prefer to be planted in loose/fertile soil and or seed starting mix.
You *can start them right in the ground if you have a longer growing season, but
most gardeners that aren’t planting starts are starting seeds early in the year. Late-
Jan- Feb.
If you plant directly in your beds plant them an inch deep and keep rows at least 1
foot apart.
Onion plants have very shallow roots and throughout the season will require a
consistent watering plan or irrigation for best results.
A lot of folks plant start onion seeds indoors or in a greenhouse using a bunching
method. Where many seeds are planted in almost a broadcast method in a larger
pot. The seeds will grow and almost look like grass with tiny black specs on top.
When it comes time to transplant outdoors you lift the entire bunch and carefully
separate the individual seedlings. It seems tedious, but as long as your soil is fertile
and loose its not too bad.
Planting onion sets:
Be sure when you are sourcing them that you source from LOCAL places and or
know your grow zone and what onion varieties grow best. IE: short day and long
Day.
Long day vs Short day onions:
This is just referring refers to the approximate hours of daylight a variety of onion
will need in order to start developing the bulb. Short Day means about ten hours a
day, while long day means twelve hours or more. This is important to consider when
choosing for your zone.
pH desired: 5.5-6.5- more acidic if you can.
In general, onions are ready for harvest in 100 to 125 days from seed. If you planted
onion sets, expect to harvest in 60 to 80 days.
How many onions do you eat in a year?
Curing?
Storage?
Onions prefer 6-8 hours of sun per day.
Plan for a spot with access to plenty of moisture as onions are slow drinkers. They do well in damp soil but need drainage… soaking wet feet leads to rotting bulbs.
Know your zone and onion type. Long day onion varieties are generally best suited for zones 6 and lower and require 14-16 hours of daylight. Short day onions need about 10 hours per day and work for zones 7+. Day neutral onion varieties are pretty adaptable with about 12 hours of sunlight needed daily. Ideally suited for zones 5 and 6.
If you’re planning on storing onions over the winter, grow storage varieties suited for long term keeping. My favorites are Aisla Craig for short term storage and Stuttgarter, Yellow Sweet Spanish, Patterson, and Yellow of Parma for long term. I’m not really a red onion person so can’t speak to that as much. 😉
Seeds are slow germinating and can be started in January with transplanting in spring into the garden.
Leeks, chives, Egyptian walking onions, ramps, and welsh onions are all great varieties to add to your must try growing list! Most of these are perennials too.
Keep onions well weeded as they don’t like competitors.
Plan to grow onions alongside brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and kohlrabi. They help to repel cabbage worms/moths with their strong scent when closely grown together. Greens, tomatoes and carrots are also good companions. So are fruit trees! Onions are great in guilds.
Never plant onions near peas or beans, peanuts or groundnut, nor asparagus. They stunt one another’s growth.
Harvest onions when they tell you to; their greens will usually fall over and begin to yellow. You can also see their papery sk
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HAPPY 2023!
We will admit, we recorded this right before the holidays and then the holidays happened. :)
We would like to welcome you to the New Year with a fun recording where we talk all about some of the common myths that circulate the homesteading community. Or just the community in general.
We both are very excited to bring you incredible content this year, but let's start with something fun! Cheers!
Angela & Mandi
@axeandroothomestead
@wildoakfarms -
You'll have to listen. This is a good one.
Mandi asked on social media- "What does being a homesteader mean to you? Are you proud of it? Do you feel like you "fit in?"
The responses were all over the board. Some were terribly sad. Some made sense to us. Some were very extreme.
We talked about many of them and gave our own thoughts in this episode.
No matter where you stand. If you are in fact a homesteader or are seeking out a similar lifestyle, you DO fit in. There isn't a box. And you are doing a great job.
Stand tall and keep going.
Angela, and Mandi -
Sit down with us as we just have a candid conversation with one another about the difference between functional farming and glamour farming. Has social media damaged how we look at hard work? Functional work?
Our thoughts on this hot button topic. Join us. And remember one thing.
YOU SHOULD BE PROUD OF YOURSELF! :)
Cheers
Angela: @axeandroothomestead
Mandi: @wildoakfarms -
Season 3: Greenhouse
Greenhouses can come in a variety of forms:
Cold FrameHoop HouseMini GreenhouseGreenhouse KitAttached 3-sided StructureIndependent Structure3 Things Required for Greenhouse
VentilationHeat SourceThermal mass from other structureHeaterWater BarrelsSunlightThings to Consider
FlooringDrainagePosition of the house relative to sunrise/setAccess Orientation- traditionally greenhouses direct N-S. (Mandi’s does not and we explain why it still works!)Challenges
Contained pests include aphids, scales, mealy bugs, gnatsMold and mildewHeating if necessaryWays to heat a greenhouse- likely one of the biggest challenges we face. Some folks compost in the greenhouse- you have to have a large enough one and I am not convinced it would work too well. You can double window. Put up sheet insulation- like the kind some folks do on their windows. - may not be rated for humidity though.
Mandi uses an electric heater. It keeps the greenhouse around 40 degrees- even when it is about 16 outside.
As you listen to the entire episode, you will hear that we chat about many ways to do the same thing. It sure doesn't have to be fancy, because the end goal is all the same!
Thank you for listening.
Angela and Mandi -
PLANTING:
Plant in full sun.
Don’t overwater to prevent rotting bulbs. Instead, mulch the area with straw to retain moisture.
Plant cloves in mid October before the freeze. Also know what you’re planting. Grow soft neck varieties for storage and hard neck for larger cloves, and mainly consuming sooner than later. Elephant garlic is awesome and easy to peel. But it doesn’t last super long.
Buy quality seed. We like
@territorialseedcompany
@seed_savers_exchange
@pvfsgroworganic
@filareegarlicfarm
A small sprinkle of slow release fertilizer in each hole when planting really helps out cloves as they establish roots. For a more permaculture approach, use biodegradable materials to improve soil quality and replace needed nutrients (i.e. comfrey, compost, etc.).
GROWING:
In addition to full sun and water, fertilize every 2-3 weeks with liquid kelp.
Keep weed free and avoid walking in growing areas to avoid compacting the soil.
When scapes appear on hardneck varieties, cut them before they blossom. This keeps the plant’s energy going towards the bulb and not reproducing via flower pollen.
HARVEST:
Many sources say to harvest when the foliage of the plant is 2/3 yellow-brown. I don’t as this opens up the possibility of rotting bulbs! I harvest after a week or two of cutting scapes.
After harvesting, shake off excess dirt. Braid and hang softneck varieties in small groups or bundle hardneck varieties and hang. Air flow is key!
Make sure the bulbs cure for about three weeks in a dry, cool location.
After 3 weeks, de-stem, remove roots with scissors and store in braids or porous baskets.
Pro Tip: Garlic is a great companion plant for broccoli, cauliflower and other brassicas. If you plant rows 12” apart, you can leave space to interplant these crops in the spring.
You have the choice between two kinds- hardneck and softneck. Within both of those there are dozens of different cultivars, but knowing the difference in hard vs soft is very helpful for choosing the right kinds for your zone. Softneck garlic is usually what you are finding at the grocery store. Those varieties tend to have a longer and more stable shelf life. Softneck garlic in my opinion is also less flavorful, or should I less more mild to the taste buds. It's a more "well-rounded" choice when it comes to an all purpose garlic. These do NOT have scapes. Softneck garlic grows best in warmer climates, however we do grow some here and we get some pretty harsh winters.Then you have hardneck garlic. We grow 80% hardneck here on our homestead. It does better in colder climates like ours. Hardneck garlic is the superior choice for colder climates because it requires prolonged exposure to cold weather of at least 40 days at 40 degrees F (or even less). This process is called vernalization. We also like hardneck garlic better because of the scapes! Those are the curly-q things that come up in the middle of the stalk. Usually a few weeks before the garlic is ready for harvest. It is like a bonus crop.
With all of that being said, play around with it. Garlic is SO easy to grow and once you start you won't stop. You will plant more and more each year. Trust me.
Garlic requires full- sun. That is considered at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Garlic likes to be planted in a well-draining soil that has a neutral (or even slightly acidic) pH. By doing a soil test in fall, you can learn what and how you should
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Season 3: Cover Crops
Cover crops are a form of vegetation that is grown in raised beds, in-ground gardens, and animal grazing paddocks to improve soil fertility and tilth. These crops are not harvested for use but are left within the soil. Most often, cover crops are chopped and dropped before seed-set in order to return nutrients to the soil and prevent unwanted spreading.
A lot of folks call cover crops the no cash- cash crop. We don’t harvest it so I think it’s widely underused. People forget about soil health once the fall or summer season of growing is done. But when we add things like CC or any organic material to the beds or plots in the fall you are setting yourself up for a better Spring.
For our raised beds we plant roughly 4 weeks before frost- so that is the first week of october. And then we will mow- weed-whack the cover crops down the first of march before they go to seed. This gives the roots and the rest of the plant material time to decompose and feed the soil before we plant things in early spring. (third ish week of March)
From Farmer’s Almanac: “Examples include winter rye, hairy vetch, red clover, oats, buckwheat, forage rye, Italian rye grass (sown by October), field beans, and forage pea (sown by November). Cover crops literally make a living “cover” to sustain soil life until spring planting.”
Cover Crop Functions:
Hold soil in place and prevent erosionKeep soil covered to prevent solarizationIncrease organic matterAdd nutrientsLoosen compacted soil, improving aerationSome suppress weedsIn warmer seasons, flowering crops provide a source of pollen/nectar for pollinatorsNOTE: Cover crops need at least four weeks of growth before the first frost to fully establish themselves and to “work.”
From Farmer’s Almanac:
“For most home gardeners, there are other things to take into consideration. Mainly, cover crops for home vegetable gardens should be easy to work into the soil in the spring.
Hairy vetch produces so much top growth that it’s very difficult to turn over without a strong mower. Hairy vetch and winter rye are better for field-scale production.Perennial cover crops such as red clover (Trifolium pratense) are slow growing and are best used in orchards and vineyards.“For cool-season cover crops (planted in late summer/fall), annuals are the way to go. They die over the winter or naturally complete their life cycle by the next spring. Also, the home gardener should select crops that can be easily incorporated into the garden. Here are some good cool-season cover crops to explore:
Oats are a wonderful annual cover crop which prevents erosion and loosens tight soil.Field peas, mustard, and barley are also good annual cover crops. Berseem clover is a rapid-growing annual legume that will fix nitrogen in the soil.Oilseed radish is a rapidly growing annual with large roots that alleviate deep compaction.”Link to Farmer’s Almanac suggested cover crops by region (also includes Canada):
https://www.almanac.com/planting-cover-crops-home-garden
Way to Improve Soil Fertility in Fall Without Cover Crops:
Add compostRemove diseased plants and unwanted weedsLeave dead, healthy matter to return nutrients to soilAdd any additional amendments if needed after testing the soilCover with straw, woodchips or mulch to offer protectionIn general, Fall is the best time to add any organic material to your garden. It is far wiser to manage, till if you till, add to your
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Join us for this episode where we chat with Crystal, the author of the new book "Freeze Fresh" - The ultimate guide to preserving fruits and vegetables. It was such a fun and relatable conversation and one we know you all are going to love! Crystal is such a wealth of knowledge and an asset to the homesteading community! Enjoy!
Find Crystal on Instagram at Wholefedhomestead and you can find her book titled "Freeze Fresh" on Amazon and other book retailers such as Target and Barnes and Noble.
Cheers!
Angela: axeandroothomestead
Mandi: wildoakfarms -
This was so much fun! I am sure that if we both could only grow one thing, it would be tomatoes!
We talked about pruning, trellising, when to harvest, how to store, and more!
What is your favorite tomato variety?
Cheers!
Be sure to come say hi @wildoakfarms and @axeandroothomestead -
What is companion planting?
It's one of the foundations of creating working ecosystems when it comes to permaculture. We can group plants together when planning and planting our growing spaces to help crops deter pests/disease, mine nutrients from the soil, and attract pollinators.
It's a way of creating a symbiotic relationship in your gardens, because the idea is the two plants (or more) that are companions are each providing to the other something that it cannot do. Or cannot do it alone. The plants are working together to benefit one another. Companion planting is also thought to “confuse” pests even when you are unable to cover or manage intensively.
It helps support plant diversity and actually helps you intensively manage a small space better. The key in fostering diversity is to increase the number of beneficial pests- thus decreasing the harmful ones.
Why companion plant?
The result is a higher crop yield, less human intervention by way of fertilizing and pest control, and maximizing garden space. These concepts can be applied to small spaces--even container gardens--to large environments like orchards. It's about getting away from mono-culture (planting rows upon rows of corn, for example) and planting many things together, called poly-culture.
For containers, raised beds or in-ground garden systems, here's some helpful companion plant combinations I use.
Tomatoes
Plant lettuce, carrots, radish underneath and around
Broccoli/Cauliflower
Plant broccoli and cauliflower between rows of garlic and/or sage to deter cabbage moths. Crimson clover acts a great living mulch to attract predatory insects to feed on those cabbage moth larvae also.
Cucumbers
Surround with radishes to deter cucumber beetles
Pumpkins/Squash
Sow 2-3 nasturtium seeds around each seedling after sprouting to deter squash bugs/borersMarigolds and Calendula
Use around borders to attract beneficial pollinators and deter rabbits- and they can add another thing to you homestead arsenal- you can make salves from the petals- they both are from the same family and have anti-inflammatory properties and more.
Roses
Interplant garlic around roses to deter fungal diseases (some folks say it also encourages a stronger fragrance from the rose blossoms!)
Peas
Peas give nitrogen to the soil so are great for heavy-feeding plants like tomatoes, corn, peppers, eggplant, and even potatoes
Strawberries
Interplant with mint to deter pests. Also interplant with borage to attract pollinators and enhance berry sweetness.
Nasturtium
Containing both edible foliage and flowers (and seeds-capers) it fairs well in less fertile soil. Great for pollinators and pest control- so we interplant this easy to grow trailing flower all over the garden.
Trap crops: the idea of planting crops to “sacrifice”. This aids in pest reduction for the plants you want to see to harvest. This is ideally done in close proximity to the plants you are trying to succeed with. For us- we do this with brassicas- greens etc. We will cover (with a lightweight summer cloth) the beds we want to protect and then leave a bed nearby uncovered and unkempt. The easiest form of trickery.
Plants that add nitrogen back into our soil:
It's no secret- your soil is alive. You want it to be its own little ecosystem right under your feet. We can help the soil (because then it turns around and helps us) by planting crops that are rich in nitrogen. Legumes - peas and beans are some of the more common plants homesteaders will grow for a harvest- and they are also helping improve the soil as they grow a
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Do you live in an apartment, condo, and/or are you limited on your growing space?
This episode is for you! We have covered in previous episodes small space gardening and discussed many tricks we have learned in growing over the years. This just takes it to a little bit more of a niche!
Be sure to check out those other episodes that might also be helpful from the previous seasons!
Cheers! - Mostrar mais
