Эпизоды
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In this episode, we sit down with Boone local Sam Dospoy—woodworker, van builder, and climber deeply rooted in North Carolina’s High Country. Sam shares how a two year stint dirtbagging in a minivan sparked both his love of climbing and his custom van build business, Stand Up Vans. We dig into his early days of bouldering over couch cushions at Blowing Rock, the tight-knit and low-beta climbing scene in Boone, and his progression into bold trad climbing and first ascents.
Sam reflects on mentorship, the local ethics around development, and the draw of uncovering untouched rock. We also get into the nitty gritty of what it takes to repeat some of 221's most infamous and hardest trad routes, his futuristic project at Hawksbill, how bouldering has shaped his trad climbing, and what it looks like bolting steep routes ground up while hanging from sketchy hooks.
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Climbing in Boone with Sam Dospoy: https://youtu.be/rEkMJdHC4gs?si=yB0C2b23oQV64-Gc
The Castaway - Ship Rock: https://youtu.be/h6DG1F8K5qQ?si=IYFZRSrYfohA1NVV
Blowing Rock Boulders: https://youtu.be/rEkMJdHC4gs?si=yB0C2b23oQV64-Gc
Fire in the Hole: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117126148/fire-in-the-hole
Hawksbill Project: https://www.instagram.com/p/B571Y-XD-gN/
Heirloom (Moon Rocks Corridor Project): https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7QCbtDzZo/
Ishmael (Stack Rock): https://www.instagram.com/p/BaJ61_CAQ-H/
Pyramid Scheme: https://www.instagram.com/reel/B8l_ZwUJ_Pc/
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Follow Joel on Instagram: @sam_ayye_am
Check out Stand Up Vans on Instagram: @standupvans
Find a Stand Up Van that's right for you!
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Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup
Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/
Sign up for the Mailing List!
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Boone, North Carolina is where photographer Drew Mercer first discovered his passion for rock climbing, so it’s no surprise that his new coffee table book, In Season, is a love letter to the High Country. A modern champion of Southeastern climbing, Drew uses his lens to share the story of days spent at some of his favorite local, and arguably underappreciated, crags like Ship Rock, Grandmother Boulders, and The Dump.
We also cover Drew's dirtbag days in the Buttermilks and Hueco Tanks, an epic on the Linville Crusher, and ultimately what makes Boone the kind of place always worth coming home to.
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Get a copy of In Season through Kickstarter
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Follow Drew on Instagram
See more of Drew's work on his Website
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Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup
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Пропущенные эпизоды?
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Training for trad climbing isn’t something most climbers think about—but Project Direct coach Dana Taylor is here to change that.
Originally from Chicago, Dana spent years sport climbing at the Red River Gorge before catching the trad bug on a trip to Wadi Rum. In this episode, she takes us through her journey into the world of limit trad climbing, what inspired her to pursue coaching, and how she’s helping clients take their trad climbing to the next level.
We also dive into some epic multi-pitch adventures at Mazama, wild mountain bike descents, and a few pivotal moments that shaped Dana’s climbing career.
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Interested in working with Dana: Project Direct Coaching
Follow Along: Instagram
From bolts to cams: My journey to trad climbing
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Mazama Multi-pitch: Flyboys
More Monkey than Funky
Separate Reality
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Whether you know him as the Vampire Professor, the Banjo Man, or the founding president of the Southwestern Pennsylvania Climbers Coalition (SWPACC), you know that Joel Brady has the undeniable ability to crush nails hard rock climbs. Coming to us live from the Keystone State, Joel recalls his early days competing against legends like Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, and Tommy Caldwell in some of America's first major climbing competitions. We then get into some of his milestone contributions to the sport that have come from more than two decades of establishing and sending some of the Southeast’s hardest routes. Among them are Still Life, a benchmark 5.14b at Summersville Lake in the New River Gorge, which he first ascended at just 18 years old, and Green Magic in the Hills, a recently realized dead-vertical 5.14b at Seneca Rocks that Joel describes as his magnum opus.
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Still Life: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEgbnWTMgmY ;
Green Magic in the Hills: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/124323457/green-magic-in-the-hills
South's Steepest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uT-XWc9ybY
Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition: https://www.swpacc.org/
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Follow Joel on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vampireprofessor/
Photo Credit: Caleb Hills: https://www.instagram.com/calebjhills/
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Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup
https://www.instagram.com/listentogroundup/
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Speed climbing is the ultimate culmination of dozens, if not hundreds, of hours spent dialing in beta, trimming the rack, and pushing the body to move as quickly up the wall as possible. Few do it better than today's guest, Joe Kennedy, a speed climbing phenom who holds the record for the fastest bridge to bridge ascent of the legendary Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon. He’s also known for blazing through the Flatirons, either solo or with Satan's Minions, and holds the fastest known times on "Roach’s Top 10" and the grueling "33 Spring Classics." Joe takes us through where he got the need for speed, how he teamed up with Stefan Griebel to take down the Naked Edge record, and what other epic link-ups he's got on the horizon.
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The Naked Edge Speed Record Video: https://vimeo.com/764407847
The 33 Spring Classics: https://www.strava.com/activities/9090791867/overview
Roach's Top 10: https://www.strava.com/activities/9899803294/overview
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Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup
https://www.instagram.com/listentogroundup/
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Finding first ascents and new potential link-ups in Yosemite Valley is a rare opportunity these days, especially when they're as monumental as the QUAD! In a mind-blowingly short one year between his first NIAD (Nose in a Day), Tanner Wanish and his partner Michael Vail not only broke the speed record on the infamous Yosemite Triple Crown, but also established the Quad, a mega link-up of El Capitan, Half Dome, Mount Watkins and Washington Column. As a former Navy Seal, Tanner is no stranger to pushing himself to the limit and he's quickly making a career out of maximizing his days in the mountains and seeing what he can fit into a single 24 hour window. We chat about everything from his introduction to climbing, how Mountain Project led to mentorship from Randy Levitt, a 50-hour fast and heavy push on the Nose, and everything that lead up to the first ascent of the Quad.
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While most climbers gravitate to El Potrero Chico when visiting Nuevo León, Karly Rager has spent the past five winter seasons learning the dark arts of kneebars in El Salto's tufa filled playgrounds. Fresh off her all female team's First Free Ascent of Guerreras on La Gloria, Karly reflects on what it took to achieve their FFA in the demanding Mexican alpine desert, her early years as a climber in Boulder, Colorado, and lessons learned from training hundreds of other climbers through her coaching business (@ProjectDirect_Coaching). This episode is particularly special since Robert was actually part of the documentary crew that got to film Karly and her partner Mango during their push on Guerreras.
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If you've pulled onto the perfect Nuttall Sandstone of the New River Gorge, odds are you've climbed a Doug Reed route. Boasting one of the most impressive list's of first ascents in Southeastern, and perhaps national climbing history, Doug was a true pioneer of pushing the standards for both difficult and high-quality climbing during the 80's and 90's. A true legend of the steep, Doug takes us through his journey putting up an almost unfathomable 600+ combined routes at the NRG, Little River Canyon and all over North Carolina. He also helps us relive some of his most outrageous stories featuring cutting edge free solos and difficult x-rated trad-lines, before getting into his climbing hiatus and what ultimately brought him back to the sharp end of the rope.
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The Western North Carolina climbing scene has been experiencing a recent flurry of hard ascents and Zack Mintz is certainly someone who's been at the heart of it all. A true guru of granite, Zack joins the Ground Up to cover everything from his rapid progression as a climbing guide, how "learning to fail" has helped him succeed, and his passion for capturing other climbers through the lens of his camera. He also walks us through his process for the first ascent of Invisible Brailleways, an appropriately named 5.13 slab route at the North End of Looking Glass with beta so cryptic it required film review to dial in the moves.
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Hailing from the great state of Georgia, our guest for this episode is the Southeast's latest climbing phenom, Armand La Douceur. It was only 18 months ago that Armand first tied into a rope, but he's since taken the climbing scene by storm, putting down many of the areas hardest test-pieces, including Western North Carolina's most iconic 5.13 multipitch, the Glass Menagerie at Looking Glass Rock. The boys dive into his wild introduction to climbing following Groover, a 900 ft 5.8 on Laurel Knob, recent burns on Wet Lycra Nightmare, lessons learned from various mentors that have allowed him to progress so quickly, and what lies ahead.
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If you tuned into the HBO reality series, The Climb, with Chris Sharma, Megan Martin and Jason Momoa, you probably recognize our next guest, Mario Stanley. A Texas based climber, Mario's impact on the local scene as a coach, guide, route developer and fellow podcast host can't be overstated. A wide ranging episode, we cover outdoor access in the Lone Star State, annual trips to Last Chance Canyon, deep water soloing in Mallorca and Mario's recent transition into documentary filmmaking. Mario then walks us through the mission of his latest film, Climb Malawi, and the impact he and guest of the Ground Up Genevive Walker had on equipping the local climbing community with the necessary skills for sustained organic growth.
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You may have heard of Dad Strength before, but Erica Lineberry is making sure that you know all about Mom Strength. Better known as Cragmama, Erica is one of the Southeast's elite weekend warriors and has sent well over 100 routes of 5.12 or higher, all after having her first child! Whether she's pulling through roofs at Hidden Valley, jug bashing at the Red River Gorge or working her way down Endless Wall, it's always a family affair with Cragmama and her blog details exactly how she and her husband have kept sending while raising the next generation of young crushers. A wide ranging conversation, Erica sits down with the Ground Up crew to cover everything from her initial inspiration to start cragmama.com, sharing 5.12 projects with her son, tips & tricks for climbing with kids, and much, much more.
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This one is for all the local North Carolina hardmen, the lovers of steep & spicy trad climbing, and anyone looking for a classic ground up adventure. The Mayor of Moore's himself, Tim Fisher, takes us through his 40+ year climbing career developing some of the region's best and boldest test pieces. We talk ground up ethics, adventures with other local legends like Doug Reed, Tim's shortlist of classic routes for the Southeast trad climber and route development at Moore's, Rumbling Bald, Linville Gorge and more.
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One of only three participants to ever climb 300+ pitches during the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, Genevive Walker is a true legend of the competition. Her commitment to performance is rivaled only by her involvement in the community and she's always the first one to bring the energy to the afterparty. Join The Ground Up crew for Episode 8 as Genevive walks us through her unexpected introduction to Hell, her impressive year over year progression and the astounding culmination of her efforts as she became the only female to break the elusive 300 barrier at 24HHH.
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They may not have the speed record on El Capitan, but Rob D'Anastasio and Vasya Vorotnikov have the arguably more coveted achievement of holding almost every team and individual record at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. For Episode 7 of The Ground Up, The Goatbusters dive deep into their record smashing accomplishments at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, the tactics and strategy that went into each one and what other outrageous ideas they're cooking up for this year at Hell. Hard to not walk away inspired after a conversation with the GOATs of Horseshoe Hell!
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Every year as the temps begin to drop and the leaves begin to change color, the Ground Up crew heads down to Jasper, Arkansas for the greatest climbing competition on the planet, 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. An annual affair that injects stoke into the veins of those that have participated, and bewilders those that haven't, this is truly an event worthy of the show's first miniseries. No guests this time, just Ari and Rob talking everything 24HHH, sharing their own own experiences at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and previewing what's to come in the net few episodes.
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One of North Carolina's most prolific route developers, Nathan Brown, sits down with The Ground Up crew to share stories from developing crags all across the country and the inevitable shenanigans he's encountered bolting new lines on the sharp end. Nathan's interview takes us through his early climbing days at Stone Mountain, his vision for establishing hundreds of first ascents at Laurel Knob, the Linville Gorge, Rumbling Bald, and Looking Glass Rock, and his new projects in the front range of Colorado. Buckle up, this is a conversation you don't to want to miss.
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Ari and Robert take a few minutes to introduce themselves and set the stage for what to expect from the Ground Up podcast and its guests in the episodes to come.
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On Episode 4 the team welcomes notorious Gunks headpointer Eric Marx to the podcast. A regular in the New York climbing scene, Eric offers insight into his process of headpointing dangerous and difficult trad routes, what drew him to this unique climbing style and how he uses the Moon Board, bouldering and other techniques to to train when he's not plugging gear.
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In Episode 3 of the Ground Up Podcast, the crew sits down with a true veteran and living legend of the North Carolina climbing scene, Bennett Harris. The closest thing you might find to a walking guidebook, Bennett has spent decades climbing at crags up and down the East Coast and shares endless stories from his time at the New River Gorge, the Obed and the Red River Gorge before opening up about a brutal climbing accident and how he was able to overcome his injury.
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