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In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries.
Takeaways
Tendons are the connective tissue that connects muscles to bone and play a crucial role in movement. Tendon injuries are common in climbers, with the most common areas being the elbow, rotator cuff, biceps, and hamstring. Tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy are different types of tendon injuries, each requiring a different approach to treatment and rehabilitation. Rest and proper loading techniques are essential for the healing of tendon injuries, and the progression of rehabilitation should be guided by the individual's symptoms and response to treatment.Evan Ingerson’s Bio
Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries.
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast EpisodeSocial Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner DiscountsInjury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches -
In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of recovery and rest. Beth emphasizes the importance of proper technique, body awareness, and listening to your body's signals. She provides practical exercises and tips that can be applied both in climbing and in everyday life. Overall, this conversation provides a comprehensive guide to climbing injury prevention and performance optimization.
Takeaways
Mental health is a broad category that encompasses various aspects of well-being, including anxiety, depression, and neurodivergence. Grounding exercises, such as the five senses exercise, can help climbers stay present and manage stress and anxiety. Deliberate breathing while climbing can improve focus, oxygenation, and mental clarity. Building a supportive community and engaging in social activities can contribute to better mental health in climbing. Addressing mental health in a holistic manner is essential for climbers to optimize their overall well-being and performance.Beth Scott's Bio
My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps.Chapters
00:00 Introduction 01:26 Understanding Mental Health for Climbers 03:30 Mental Health is Not Always Negative 05:18 Practical Tips for Improving Mental Health 06:00 Grounding Exercise: Five Senses 09:56 Breathing Techniques for Mental Health 23:26 Building Community for Mental Health 33:17 Final ThoughtsBeth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps.
CONTACT BETH SCOTT: [email protected]
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast EpisodeSocial Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner DiscountsInjury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches -
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In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis. Takeaways DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint. Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain. Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury. Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms. Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury. Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury 05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers 07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain 16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain 25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions 28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain 33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors 38:03 Pinch Grip Variations 42:08 Hangboard Recommendations 46:11 Returning to Climbing 48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis
Contact Steve Smith: [email protected]
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 YouTube Session RecordingSocial Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner DiscountsInjury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches -
In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience.
Takeaways
Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique. Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon.Evan Ingerson’s Bio
Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Please note: Evan is no longer taking Free ConsultationsLinks and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 YouTube Session RecordingSocial Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner DiscountsInjury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches -
Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers:
Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general tips for climbing resiliency Patrick's info and outroContact Info:
IG: @kraftfactory email: [email protected] -
Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his history, mental aspects of climbing, and injury management. This episode covers:
A history of The Rock Warrior's Way -- how it started and developed to what it is today Mental aspects of injury management with climbing Body awareness and mental flexibility Arno's personal routine for sharpening his mind Coping with stressors in rehab and leveraging senses to live in the moment Arno's general advice and closing thoughtsContact Info:
https://warriorsway.com/ IG: @rockwarriorsway -
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers:
Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting Supplemental exercise routine - progressions, addressing weak links, maintenance Common areas of weakness, injury prevention, and how RR addresses them What distinguishes elite level climbers Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's favorite drills RR’s advice on injury management OutroRobyn's Bio: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is a 4-time Climbing World Cup champion, 5 time U.S.A champion, and the third female climber to send 5.14a. She has been coaching since 1993 and has served as the head coach for the USA Climbing Youth Team. Additionally, Robyn is the founder of ABC Kids Climbing, an institution that has included the likes of Brooke Raboutou, Colin Duffy, Margo Hayes, and Natalia Grossman.
Contact Info:
https://www.abckidsboulder.com/ IG: @robyn_erbesfield_raboutou -
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews Tom Randall! Tom is the founder of, as well as coach of Lattice Training, a comprehensive training platform for rock climbing. Watch as Tom pulls from his vast experiences as a high level climber and coach to discuss training methodology, injury prevention, and more! This episode covers:
How Tom started and developed his training Developing Lattice Training Tom's experiences with personal injury Common injuries and mistakes Shoulder resiliency and management Tom's go-to exercises for general resiliency and holistic approach Tom's general advice for climbing OutroContact Info:
IG: @tompaulrandall @latticetraining YT: @LatticeTraining Facebook: Lattice -
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Kris Hampton on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on Kris's experience with shoulder and hamstring injuries, what he does to climb strong without getting hurt, common technique errors with climbing, and balancing technique drills with hard climbing. This episode covers:
Shoulder injuries and climbing specific rehab Hamstring injuries when rock climbing What do you do to avoid injuries Common climbing errors related to performance How to combine training, techniques, and movement performance Closing thoughtsKris Hampton's Bio: Kris became a student of movement by watching gymnasts train at a facility near the neighborhood where he grew up. He saved his own money, took a class, and in a short time, was teaching tumbling classes and coaching men's gymnastics. In 1994, Kris found rock climbing, and after a decade as a trad climber, and a short break from climbing, discovered the joy of the gymnastic movement that is sport climbing and bouldering. To make up for the time away from the sport, at age 33, Kris began to get serious about training for climbing. At 40, he climbed his first 5.14, and at 44, his first V11, both of which are grades that seemed mythical when he first began climbing. He doesn't believe that the progression will end there. Seeing his success, Kris's friends asked for training plans. Then readers of the blog asked for training plans. Now he's written plans for thousands of climbers all over the world, and gets just as much satisfaction from their successes as he does his own.
Website:
https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ Instagram: @powercompanyclimbing -
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews world class climbing coach, Dicki Korb -- trainer of Alex Megos and co-author of the best selling climbing book, Gimme Kraft! Watch as Dicki shares his thoughts and methodologies from his 37 years of climbing! This episode covers:
Gimme Kraft! and sharing training methods Contemporary training Dicki's go to exercises, warm up tips, and movement practice/preparation Challenges, risks, and considerations with modern competition climbing Finger training, campus boarding, and training errors Changes in coaching since pandemic Dicki's general tips for resiliencyContact Info:
webpage: https://cafekraft.de/de email: [email protected] -
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Tenaya athlete Felipe Camargo on all topics related to injuries. This interview was part of the “Behind the Send” campaign by Tenaya, sharing the stories of those who make the climbing life possible, from route developers, coaches, and physios to mountain guides, mentors, and advocates. This episode covers:
Felipe’s history of finger injuries and prevention exercises Finger intrinsic strength Finger warm-up strategies for climbing Tips and tricks to keep the fingers strong for climbing Anatomy of the pulleys and pulley protection ring Rehabilitation exercises for pulley injuries The variation behind the side and length of climbers’ digits Problem solving the mechanics of Felipe’s injuries related to grippingFelipe was born in Ribeiro Preto, Sao Paulo, Brazil, in 1991. He began climbing at the age of 10 in a small, local rock-gym, and only a few years later, at the age of 15, won his first Brazilian Championship, an achievement he repeated 5 times, as he did with the South American Championship. On rock, he established Brazil’s first V15 (8C) boulder problem and is the first South American climber to reach both 9a+ and 8C grades. Felipe has also become a top exponent of high grade multi-pitch climbs, as illustrated by his second ascent of ‘Corazón de Ensueño’ (250 metros, 8c) in China’s Gethu region.
Website:
https://blog.tenaya.net/en/2020/12/15... -
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Eric Hörst on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep in to tips to reduce injuries, warm-up routines, shoulder stability training, posterior chain exercises, finger health and maintenance, wrist strength, and a few final thoughts on how to climb injury-free. This episode covers:
General tips that help you lower injury risk Describe your own personal climbing warm-up Describe the importance of training the shoulders Go-to Exercises for the shoulders Developing the posterior chain Wrist stability for the fingers Final words and last thoughtsErics Hörst's Bio: Eric Hörst (pronounced “Hurst”) is an internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of 40 years. A self-professed “climber for life." Driven by his passion for adventure and challenge, he has established over 400 first ascents and he’s still pushing his personal climbing limits at age 53. Eric is also one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. TEric has written hundreds of magazine articles, appeared on numerous TV broadcasts, and his training techniques and photos have appeared in many publications including Rock & Ice, Climbing, Outside, DeadPoint, Men’s Health, Fortune, Men’s Journal, Muscle Media, Muscle & Fitness, Paddler, Urban Climber, Parents, Wall Street Journal, Experience Life, Outdoor 4X, and National Geographic Adventure, as well as European magazines such as Desnivel, Alpen, Climax, and Climber. Eric is also a published researcher and member of the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Eric produces a monthly Training For Climbing podcast and his training videos are regularly featured on EPIC-TV.
Website:
https://trainingforclimbing.com/ Instagram: @training4climbing -
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Arc'Teryx athlete Jonathan Siegrist about his experience with injuring and rehabilitating his Grade III AC joint rock climbing. This interview occurred in 2020, 5 weeks after Jonathan had a grade III AC sprain. After diligent therapy and several months, Jonathan returned to full strength climbing. He continued to train and shortly after, he sent his most challenging project yet. This episode covers:
Taping techniques for AC joint sprain Early range of motion Staying strong early on Blood flow restriction therapy Early strength training Returning to early climbing Late stage strengthening Exercise demonstrationsJonathan Siegrist's Bio: Jonathan is a passionate professional climber and global traveler. He spends his years primarily on the road and overseas, constantly on a mission to develop new areas and pursue the challenge and beauty in hard rock climbing. Since he began his journey with climbing at age 18 he has step by step experimented and refined his methods of training for a variety of goals. His list of career highlights includes over 350 5.14s, 5.14 traditional routes, over a dozen 5.15s, boulder problems up to V14 and 5.14 big wall ascents.
Website:
http://www.jonathansiegrist.com/p/abo... Instagram: @jonathansiegrist -
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Steve Bechtel on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on training mistakes that are common with climbers, training exercises, power exercises for climbing performance, climbing assessments, inside elbow pain, and how to warm up the hands and fingers for climbing. This episode covers:
Mistakes and errors that climbers make with training What are your biases of types of exercises that climbers should use to train How important is lower body power for climbing Assessments typically performed on climbers A discussion about Steve's medial epicondylitis Some great analogies on analysis paralysis and overtraining Warming up the hands and fingers Go-to exercises for climber'sSteve Bechtel's Bio: Steve is the founder of Climb Strong. A climber for more than 30 years, Steve has established over 300 new routes across the globe, from grade VI big wall free climbs to 25-foot sport routes on his home crags near Lander, Wyoming. An exercise science graduate of the University of Wyoming, Steve has been studying and experimenting with climbing training methods since his teens. After spending a few years as a full-time climber, Steve opened Elemental Performance + Fitness in 2002. Elemental is a full-service gym in Lander, but was built around the training needs of high-level climbers.
Website:
https://www.climbstrong.com/ Instagram: @climbstrong -
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Udo Neumann on all topics related to climbing and injuries! Climbing since 1982, Udo has written multiple books on rock climbing, and has served in roles as both German bouldering coach and advisor to various climbing federations. Take notes, because there is a wealth of information to be had from this climbing legend! This episode covers:
Udo's career as a climber, researcher, coach, and federation member Udo's take on warm up routines The visual system in climbing Incorporating standard rehab exercises into intention based climbing Udo's creative process for exercises and exposing climbers to novel movements Udo's tips for staying resilient in climbingUdo Neumann Bio: Udo Neumann is one of the climbing world's most highly respected and sought after Biomechanics, Skill Acquisition, & Motor Control Experts. “Udo Neumann IS bouldering. If all things related to bouldering counted as first ascents—films, books, photography, mixed media—Udo Neumann might just be the most prolific boulderer in history. Since 1982, when he began climbing, Neumann has been cranking out media at a feverish pace, not just documenting the sport, but altering the very way we’ve understand the act of bouldering. Udo Neumann was there in the beginning. He co-authored the sports most successful training book, the now classic but still relevant Performance Rock Climbing (1993), which brought professional sportsscience theory into a sport where climbers were primarily pumping out on Bachar ladders and doing pull-ups on fingerboards. The book introduced climbers to training strategies we take for granted today.”
Contact Information:
https://udini.com/ Instagram: @_udini_ -
In this interview, The Climbing Doctor talks climbing movement with an expert on the subject, John Kettle! John is an experienced coach of over 20 years and is the author of "Rock Climbing Technique." Listen to this episode to learn about John's journey with injuries and how he applies movement to improve climbing performance. This episode covers:
John Kettle's battle with finger injury and subsequent management John Kettle's approach to managing his shoulders Further injury history and management Relationship between climbing movement with performance and injury Changing climbing movement behaviors Leveraging tension for improved climbing movement John Kettle's key tips for improving performanceJohn Kettle's Bio: During 20+ years of coaching I've helped thousands improve both in performance and enjoyment; from first trad leads to 8th grade redpoints and V11 boulder problems. My love of climbing has seen me gain extensive experience over four decades, including first ascents of trad, sport and ice routes, solo winter expeditions, and developing new bouldering venues. If there’s a summit, climb or new grade that inspires you I’ll match your enthusiasm and use my proven coaching approach to make it happen. I've published a bestselling book on climbing technique, and I deliver training for coaches internationally. I have also written coaching skills articles for UKClimbing, Training Beta and the Professional Mountaineer magazine. Listen to a podcast interview with me, about my own progression through the grades and my coaching philosophy.
Where to Find John Kettle:
website: johnkettle.com Instagram: @john_kettle_climbing email: [email protected]Referenced Posts:
Instagram Injury Post 1: https://www.instagram.com/p/CAXia_ijLFV/ Instagram Injury Post 2: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFjQg9EjtQ5/
