Episodi
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We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn).
For this episode, we are joined by Tania Edwards, Co-Founder of Collectability and former employee of Patek Philippe. Her extensive knowledge of Patek, as well as her many years of experience in its marketing department, make her a bona fide expert when it comes to the brand's heritage, evolution, and watchmaking.
Tania and Tony discuss Patek's history through the '80s and '90s, how the brand's identity and marketing campaigns have evolved to today, and her thoughts on vintage and modern Patek watches (including the Cubitus Collection, of course).
0:05 Hodinkee Insurance
00:33 Tania Edwards
00:34 Collectability
6:30 ETA Delirium quartz caliber
7:14 Caliber 89 and the 150th of Patek
12:50 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar
14:01 Patek Philippe Twenty-4
15:09 Patek Philippe Aquanaut
16:40 The Patek Philippe Ads
25:30 Patek Philippe Advanced Research
29:39 Patek Philippe Ref. 96
30:34 The Patek Philippe Neptune
33:08 The Patek Philippe Cubitus
36:35 Patek Calatrava 4860
37:47 Patek Philippe 130 Chronograph
38:37 Patek Philippe 3940
39:25 Patek Philippe 7000 Minute Repeater
40:23 Patek Philippe 3848 Ellipse
51:60 Collectability Podcast
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Pierre Biver of J.C. Biver, Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, and Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches join me in three separate conversations to provide a holistic overview of stone dials.
Over the past few years, stone dials have seemingly popped up everywhere. More modern brands are making them. At the same time, vintage examples have become more collectible and jumped in price considerably.
But stone dials are still a relatively undiscovered corner of watch collecting. They're not well understood on the vintage or modern side.
So I wanted to cover them on Hodinkee. Typically, we'd do this by talking to a few experts and synthesizing those conversations into an in-depth article. But I decided to try something different this time around, hitting record on three conversations to learn about modern stone dial production, vintage collecting, and everything in between.
Our first conversation is with Pierre Biver, who started J.C. Biver with his father Jean-Claude Biver last year. Each of their releases has included a stone dial option. Then, I talk with two dealers. First is Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, a vintage dealer and trained gemologist. Second is Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches, who has helped grow the scholarship around stone dials. We dive into the recent discussion around Rolex "obsidian" dials; as we'll discuss, this name isn't quite accurate and it shows how much there still is to learn about vintage watches, and stone dials in particular.
I hope all three conversations give you a better understanding of stone dials. Note that I've tried to include links to an example of all stone dials mentioned in the audio, so check the show notes below if you're not sure what a particular stone looks like.
Show Notes
1:23: Hands-On: The Biver Automatique
2:14: Hands-On: The Biver Carillon Tourbillon
19:30: Hands-On: The Berneron Mirage Realizes Its Creator's Uncompromising Vision
24:00: Hands-On: Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Limited Editions
31:54: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
33:35: In-Depth: How Piaget Defined The 1970s, And How It Can Do The Same Today
38:15: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Malachite dial
39:16: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Coral dial
41:53: Dr. Helmut Crott's The Dial
42:45: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with black Onyx dial
43:15: Example of a Piaget Protocole with Lapis Lazuli dial
43:28: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Tiger's Eye dial
45:20: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Green Jasper dial
46:30: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Pyramid Onyx dial
46:55: Jasper's white gold Datejust with Red Jasper dial
52:05: Rolex Day-Date with 'Bloodstone' dial
54:10: Hairspring Watches
56:00: Hairspring's post about the "Obsidian" dial Rolex Datejust
58:45: Recapping The Glamorous Day-Date Sale At Phillips (That Time The Average Day-Date Sold For $110,580)
1:00:00: "Obsidian" Rolex at Phillips in 2020
1:02:30: Rolex Day-Date Khanjar with "Obsidian" dial that Loupe This described as "although it looks like an onyx stone dial, after closer inspection it appears the dial is a painted/ lacquer dial."
1:11:37: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel (Live Pics) (including pics of a tropical Starwheel)
1:11:58: Rolex Daytona ref. 116500 "Lemon" dial
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Episodi mancanti?
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For this special episode, we're joined by Andres Nicholls. Andres is a dedicated collector of all things Porsche and Porsche Design. Andres' passion for the brand runs deep – he bought his first Porsche Design Chronograph 1 way back in 2000. As a trained designer and architect, he also brings a different perspective to the way in which Porsche Design's watches blend design and complications. Along the way, James and Andres also talk about some of their favorite Porsche cars, and how the brand continues to set itself apart. Andres is a senior partner and creative director for the creative agency Prophet.
Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.
Show Notes
Related coverage of Porsche Design:
Also watch our first episode featuring Porsche Design with Drew Peterson.
In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design
Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year
Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche
Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee
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There's no one quite like Max Büsser in the watch world. Each of his creations is so innovative, unique, and cutting edge, but also all clearly from the same mind, challenging conventions of watchmaking.
Büsser got his start in watches working with Jaeger-LeCoultre during the rebirth of traditional watchmaking in the 1990s. From there, he joined Harry Winston and launched its Opus series, collaborating with independent watchmakers like FP Journe.
Then, in 2005 he started his own brand, Max Busser and Friends. His Horological and Legacy Machines are like no other watches, pieces of kinetic art.
On today's episode, Max joined Ben and me to talk about his entire career, including his nearly 20 years at MB&F. We also talk about the current state of innovation and creativity in the watch industry. We also discuss the recent investment in MB&F by Chanel, and what's next for him and MB&f. Without further ado, enjoy this conversation with Max and Ben.
Show Notes
3:00: Introducing the MB&F LM101
The MB&F LM101 Limited Edition for Hodinkee
3:39: Hands-On With the MB&F HM2 (2013)
19:00: Hands-On With the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph (2023)
20:30: A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Sector Dial (2017)
24:33: Introducing: The Grande Lange 1 Lumen (2012)
31:58: In-Depth: The Classic Datograph
36:27: Hands-On: MB&F's Horological Machine 11 'Architect' – A House For The Wrist
36:33: Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S, Some Of The World's Best Horological Entertainment And So Much More
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For this special episode, we're joined by Drew Peterson. Drew is a dedicated collector of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, so he brought a portion of his collection to the Hodinkee office to chat with James Stacey. He takes us through the history and the evolution of the Chronograph 1, introduced in 1972. From Valjoux and Lemania calibers to the many military connections and everything in between, Drew is an absolute wealth of knowledge about the Chronograph 1 and Porsche Design. He also talks about the future of collecting the Chronograph 1 and a few of the mysteries that are still out there for collectors to solve.
Finally, James and Drew finish by taking a look at the modern reissue of the Chronograph 1 and what the future holds for Porsche Design.
Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.
Show Notes
Related coverage of Porsche Design:
In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design
Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year
Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche
Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee
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The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, what the Swiss watch industry can do better, and his new brand Albishorn.
Show Notes
1:46: Chronographs for Collectors
4:30: In-Depth: Swatch Group Battles With COMCO Over ETA Movement Sales (2020)
12:40: Hands-On: The Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière
19:30: Possible Tornado Hits La Chaux-de-Fonds, Causing Significant Damage To The Area
28:20: Sellita catalog from 2022
45:20: Albishorn Watches
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We're back in the swing of things after an end-of-summer break from Hodinkee Radio. This week, James and Malaika join the show. We discuss some of our favorite recent releases from Zenith, Tudor, Hamilton, Chanel, and more. Then, we get into Malaika's recent in-depth article on Tiffany & Co.'s "untapped watchmaking potential." We explore the American retailer's long relationship with watches and watchmaking, and discuss the potential for revamping its watches in the wake of its 2021 acquisition by LVMH. Then, we have a Collecting Advice from a world-traveling free diver looking for a watch. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio – we have some exciting guests lined up for the fall, so stay dialed into this feed.
8:30: Zenith ladder bracelet for the Chronomaster Revival Safari and Shadow
10:30: The Dubai Watch Club Zenith El Primero A384 (SJX)
11:15: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Safari
13:04: Just Because: Chanel Made A Watch with Headphones
18:20: Introducing: Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz
19:00: Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 'Blue' Boutique Edition
20:08: A Week On The Wrist: Tudor Black Bay Heritage Chrono Blue
23:16: Gold Tudor Prince Chronograph for Only Watch
25:25: Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold
27:30: In-Depth: Tiffany & Co.'s Untapped Watchmaking Potential
31:45: The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Collection
42:00: Introducing: The Marathon Navigator – Now With A Steel Case!
42:58: Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200T
43:48: Garmn Descent G1
44:26: Scurfa Diver One
45:10: Benrus Type 1-C
45:50: Halios Seaforth IV
46:45: Introducing: Longines Hydroconquest GMT
47:40: Hands-On: The Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453
49:10: Happenings: House Of Craft NYC | UBS x Hodinkee
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It's almost the end of summer, so today I've got Mark Kauzlarich and our new editor TanTan Wang on to talk about some of the biggest news of the past couple of months. While the watch world mostly slows down in July and August, news and releases have still been trickling out. So we're going to highlight a few of our favorite releases from Tudor, Longines, MB&F, and more. Then, we hit on some other industry news before taking a longer look at Habring2, the Austrian brand from Richard and Maria Habring.
Then, Mark and I will both be at Geneva Watch Days, so we do a preview of what to look forward to as the Swiss watch industry kicks into high gear again. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio. We'll be off the next two weeks for an end of summer break, but we'll be back in your feed again on September 18.
Show Notes
2:50: Longines Adds To Its Spirit Collection, Led By The Titanium Zulu Time 39
4:00: Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
8:50: Hands-On: Longines Legend Diver – Back And Better At 39mm
10:30: Hands-On: The Tudor Pelagos FXD 'Cycling Edition'
13:10: Introducing: Two New Tudor Pelagos FXDs For Alinghi Red Bull Racing – And One Of Them Is A Chronograph
18:50: Hands-On: Furlan Marri Disco Volante
20:20: Introducing: M.A.D. Editions' M.A.D.1 Gets Slimmer With The M.A.D.1S
28:05: Business News: Chanel Takes A 25% Stake In MB&F
36:50: The Value Proposition: The Habring2 Erwin 'Tuxedo'
39:35: A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Geopyshic True Second
51:50: SpaceOne Watches Tellerium
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Today's guest is a true legend. Fred Savage is an actor, producer, and director, best known for his roles in front of the camera in The Wonder Years and The Princess Bride after getting his big break in a commercial for Pac-Man Children's Chewable Multi-Vitamin. He's also a watch collector who I've seen get excited about vintage Gallet, Patek, and everything in between.
You might also recognize Fred from his 2018 Talking Watches episode. Since then, he's become a fixture in the vintage watch world, and I always look forward to crossing paths with him at shows, auctions, or meetups.
Ben Clymer also joins the show, and we discuss Fred's evolution as a collector since his Talking Watches episode, some of his more offbeat finds, and how watches have become something for the whole family in the Savage house. Thanks for listening, and we hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio.
Show Notes
00:01: Fred Savage on Talking Watches
1:45: Fred's "new" vintage Rolex Datejust from Wanna Buy A Watch?
17:45: Fred's Rolex Commando
19:10: Fred's Framont Parking Meter Alarm Watch
24:55: Bulova Devil Diver 666 example (Hodinkee Shop)
46:00: Timepiece Grading Specialists
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Our guest today is James Lamdin, co-founder of Analog Shift. After careers in outdoor equipment and cars, James started vintage dealer Analog Shift in 2012. A long-time watch collector, James turned his passion for vintage watches into a new resource for collectors and enthusiasts. You might know Analog Shift for its detailed watch descriptions, often with a bit of character, and perhaps you've even been lucky enough to visit its New York City showroom, a standby for local vintage watch lovers. In addition to Analog Shift, James is also the co-founder of the RedBar community.
In 2020, Analog Shift was acquired by the retailer Watches of Switzerland. But Analog Shift has kept its character since then. Today, James is VP of vintage and pre-owned with Watches of Switzerland. When he's not talking vintage watches, he's drinking whisky, driving his vintage Porsche, and generally cosplaying as Magnum PI.
James Stacey joins Mr. Lamdin and me to talk Doxa (of course), how the watch industry has evolved since Lamdin founded Analog Shift, neo-vintage watches, and his company's acquisition by Watches of Switzerland. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio.
Show Notes
00:01: Analog Shift
13:20: Example of Gruen Travel Alarm Clark
15:20: U-Boat at the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry
16:54: Cartier Envelope Watch
21:10: James' Doxa Sub 300 "Black Lung"
23:18: The Doxa Sub200T
26:00: The New Doxa Army
29:04: James' Doxa Sub300 from the Jamaican Defense Forces can be seen in the header image.
43:00: Cartier Tank Americaine with diamonds
45:30: IWC Chronograph ref. 3706
46:12: Hands-On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3714
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Today's guest is gentleman dealer Eric Wind of Wind Vintage. Eric was one of the earliest contributors to Hodinkee, writing his first article about the Universal Geneve Polerouter way back in 2010.
Over the years, he published the weekly "Bring A Loupe" column and you probably also recognize him from his multiple Reference Points appearances – Speedmaster, GMT-Master, Explorer, and Submariner – and his two talks for the Horological Society of New York.
After his time as a Hodinkee contributor, Eric joined Christie's as a VP and Senior Specialist of Watches. In 2017 he set out on his own with Wind Vintage. Nowadays, you surely recognize his wrist and white cuff, always adorned with a rare or beautiful vintage watch.
Eric tells a few stories about putting together those epic Reference Points, then we talk about the current vintage watch market, his modern watch collabs, and a charitable auction coming this December that he's involved in. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio.
Show Notes
00:01: Wind Vintage and Eric's Instagram
3:58: Reference Points: Rolex Submariner
Reference Points: Omega Speedmaster
8:45: FHH Monthly Report on Swiss Watch Exports
9:00: Half-year financial reports for Swatch Group, Richemont, and LVMH
9:25: Watch Charts
12:30: Patek 3941J with "doré" dial
22:45: Tropical Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer that sold at Christie's in 2017 and Phillips in 2021
25:49: Example of a Heuer 2447S with "eggshell dial"
28:35: Eric's unpolished Rolex Submariner 5510
29:10: Collector's Guide To The Rolex Submariner 5512
29:20: Collector's Guide To The Rolex Submariner 5513
39:05: The Rowing Blazers Seiko 5 Collab
39:17: Eric's collaboration with Tracksmith and Merci
40:00: Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Harry's Bar Super Sea Wolf
40:15: Zodiac x Rowing Blazers "Trading Places" GMT
47:30: Brian LaViolette Foundation
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Today, we're chatting watches with our guest, watch journalist Blake Buettner. Blake's a veteran of watch media, having first contributed to Hodinkee in 2010. After that, he went on to work with StockX before becoming the Managing Editor of Worn & Wound. Nowawadays, you can find his writing in places like the Robb Report as well as his own project, The Deeptrack. We talk a bit about Blake's background, the early days of Hodinkee, and how he got into watches. But since he's old hat at this, James, Blake, and I mostly just kick back and talk watches – the new Seiko Speedtimer, exciting microbrands, all followed by a listener Q&A.
A note that Hodinkee Radio will be adopting a summer schedule through the month of August. We're taking next week off, but we'll be back in your feed again before long. Until then, enjoy my discussion with Blake and James.
Show Notes
00:15: Blake's The Deep Track
1:40: Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller
4:11: Worn & Wound's Windup Watch Fair
5:45: Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor
6:20: Introducing: Oak & Oscar Atwood Chronograph
6:50: AnOrdain Model 3
9:15: Introducing: Furlan Marri Disco Volante
10:10: Hands-On: Autodromo Group C
11:00: Autodromo Racing Team
14:30: Inside The Manufacture: Parmigiani Fleurier
16:10: Hands-On with the d.m.h. Jump Hour
17:40: 2013 Formula 1 U.S. Grand Prix with Armin Strom
26:57: Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar in "Pogue" Colors
33:00: Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports 55th Anniversary
33:15: Seiko 5 Heritage Design Limited Editions
34:00: Seiko Navigator SPB411
37:45: Hands-On: Doxa Sub 200T
38:13: Week On The Wrist: Omega Speedmaster With White Lacquer Dial
40:38: Week On The Wrist: Patek Aquanaut 5065
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Today's episode is coming at you in two parts. In the first part, Jeff Hilliard, our director of Limited Editions, joins Ben and me to chat about limited editions and Hodinkee's recent collaboration with Porsche Design, a take on the original Chronograph 1. Founded by F.A. Porsche in 1972, Porsche Design has made a number of contributions to watches, which we also discuss.
After that, James Stacey and Mark Kauzlarich join the show. Since we're already halfway through 2024, we decided to recap the first half of the year: Our favorite releases, overlooked watches, and the watches we've been wearing the most.
Thanks for listening, and enjoy the show.
Show Notes
1:01: The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Limited Edition for Hodinkee
3:00: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Limited Edition for Hodinkee
3:10: Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache for Hodinkee
16:30: Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Limited Edition for Hodinkee
17:30: Zenith El Primero Limited Edition for Hodinkee
17:45: MB&F LM 101 for Hodinkee
18:15: IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII for Hodinkee
25:15: The Casiotron Makes Its Grand Return 50 Years After Starting A Digital Revolution
28:10: The Doxa Sub 200T – A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design
32:00: Grand Seiko's New SLGW002 And SLGW003 'White Birch' With A Brand-New Manual Hi-Beat Movement
33:10: A Week On The Wrist: Omega Speedmaster with white lacquer dial
35:40: Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
38:30: The Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar – A Modern-Day Chronosport UDT
40:50: Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra
43:24: Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition
44:36: A. Lange & Söhne Makes The First Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon In Honeygold – And It's A 'Lumen'
47:00: Singer Divetrack
53:45: Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono 'Pink'
54:50: Hands-On: Did Raymond Weil Really Make A Watch For Watch Enthusiasts?
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Today: the vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava episode. Introduced in 1932, though it wouldn't be called the "Calatrava" until years later, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is perhaps the most iconic watch ever, laying the blueprint for the modern dress watch. It was also introduced at a pivotal time in the history of Patek Philippe, just after it had been acquired by the Stern family. After the acquisition, the Stern brothers hired Jean Pfister, a technical master who would lead the development of the first serially produced complications that defined so much of Patek's collection during the mid-20th century. But first came the Calatrava ref. 96, Patek's first serially-produced reference.
I called up founder Ben Clymer and client advisor Rich Fordon to discuss the Patek Calatrava. We start by asking: what even is a "Calatrava," and what isn't? Then, we jump through the history of the line, from the original reference 96 through the golden era of the refs. 570, 565, 2508, and others (depending on your definition of "Calatrava"), through the hobnail ref. 3919 and then the rebirth of the traditional Calatrava in the 1980s and '90s. We also take a look at a few of our favorite overlooked Calatrava references as well as the most expensive ones to ever sell at auction.
In the show notes below, I've tried to include a link to each reference we mention to help you follow along with our discussion. Thanks as always for listening – let us know if you liked this model-focused discussion, and if so, what model you'd like to hear us discuss next.
Show Notes
3:55: The Calatrava collection on Patek's website
5:05: A Visual Guide to Rare Patek Philippe Calatravas
5:50: Patek Philippe ref. 3919 (Hodinkee Shop)
11:54: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oaks
13:18: Steel Patek Calatrava ref. 96 with sector dial at Sotheby's
16:36: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million
17:22: The Patek Ref. 565 With Breguet Dial For Sale At Phillips
17:30: Patek ref. 570 in yellow gold (Hodinkee Shop)
18:24: White gold Patek ref. 570 (Hodinkee Shop)
21:30: Alfredo Paramico Talking Watches, featuring his three two-tone dial 570s
24:35: Patek Philippe ref. 2509
28:45: The Patek Philippe 2526, And Why It's A Watch To Pay Attention To
34:52: Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II With Ruby Indices, Limited To Ten Pieces
40:26: Patek 2577 with enamel dial at Phillips
42:28: Patek ref. 530 with black dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 1.4 million
43:05: Patek ref. 570 with two-tone dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 3.3 million (most expensive Calatrava sold at auction)
47:26: Patek ref. 3796 (Hodinkee Shop)
51:10: Patek ref. 3923 for Harrod's 150th anniversary (Mr. Watchley)
52:00: Andy Warhol's Patek 2526 with Breguet numerals
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Our guest today is editor and writer Jay Fielden. Jay is a media industry vet, having spent time at The New Yorker, Vogue, and Men's Vogue, before becoming editor-in-chief of Town & Country. From there, he took the same position at Esquire from 2016 to 2019. He's also contributed to Hodinkee a few times over the years.
We invited Jay on to talk more about his recent excellent piece, "The Strange Journey of John Lennon's Stolen Patek Philippe Watch," which appeared in the June 24 issue of The New Yorker.
It's the most detailed account yet of the "Lennon 2499" that has remained mostly a mystery for decades. He traces the story, talks to the people, and even found some never-before-published photos of the Patek given by Yoko Ono to Lennon for his 40th birthday, just months before he was murdered.
Also joining the conversation is our own Ben Clymer. Thanks for listening, and enjoy this week's conversation with Jay Fielden.
Show Notes
Since the main topic of this week's episode is Fielden's article in The New Yorker, it's short on show notes. Instead, below are links for further reading on the long, winding story of John Lennon's Patek 2499:
The Strange Journey of John Lennon's Stolen Patek Philippe Watch, Fielden's story in The New Yorker
In-Depth: Twelve of the Greatest Missing Watches, Hodinkee
John Lennon's Stolen Watch Found in Geneva, Gotham City, the first publication to break the news that Lennon's 2499 had been the subject of an ongoing lawsuit in Geneva
In-Depth: The Wild, Mostly Complete Story of John Lennon's Lost Patek Philippe 2499, Hodinkee, our coverage of the lawsuit where we fill in the blanks as to where Lennon's 2499 had traveled over the past two decades
The full Geneva court decision between Yoko Ono and "Mr. A.", Canton of Geneva
The Saga of Yoko Ono, Her Chauffer, and Lost Lennon Treasures, N.Y. Times, covering the 86 other items of Lennon's that Karsan had stolen and which were recovered in the 2017 bankruptcy of Auctionata
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My guests this week are Phil Toledano and Mike Nouveau.
Phil is no stranger to Hodinkee, having been on Talking Watches and this podcast previously. He's an artist and photographer, bon vivant as well as a collector of all kinds of stuff, including watches. Most recently, he's the co-founder of Toledano & Chan, which just released its first watch, the brutalist B1. He's also a frequent undercard on Mike's social videos.
Mike is a vintage dealer and the king of WatchTok – he's got hundreds of thousands of followers across social media who tune into his daily updates on life as a dealer in New York City. He has, in particular, become known for his love and expertise in vintage Cartier, which we certainly talk about.
The odd couple are friends and collectors, and they just love watches. We talk about vintage Cartier, Breitling, Patek, and pre-Daytonas, as well as the first release from Toledano's new brand. Along the way, we all get in a few friendly jabs.
Show Notes
00:01: Mike Nouveau on TikTok and Instagram Phil Toledano on Instagram
1:00: Introducing: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan
1:21: Phil on Hodinkee Radio in 2020
2:30: Hands-On: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue – Monopusher Chronograph And All
11:05: Phil's rectangular Patek with blue sapphire numerals
11:25: Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Audacious Design Of 1970s Patek
11:56: Mike and Phil picking up the Rolex Zerograph
15:30: Mike's Patek 96 with Breguet numerals
16:44: The steel Patek 96 that sold at Antiquorum in May
19:45: Auctions: Sylvester Stallone's Grandmaster Chime Sells For $5.4 Million, Evaluating Vintage Patek Philippe Condition, And More From New York
23:52: Talking Watches with Phil Toledano
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My guests this week are watchmaker Dr. Rebecca Struthers and Lewis Heath, founder of AnOrdain. The two are friends and collaborators, so it was fun to get them both together for a conversation about watchmaking in the U.K., what they're up to, and what's next.
Lewis Heath founded AnOrdain in 2015. Since then, the Scottish brand has become known for its beautifully crafted enamel dials. He founded the company after working as a product designer and deciding he wanted to make something closer to home.
Dr. Rebecca Struthers is a watchmaker and co-founder of Struthers Watchmakers along with her husband and fellow watchmaker, Craig. The two began their business as restorers, but after realizing they'd made pretty much every other component for other people's watches, decided to build their own. This was the beginning of Project 248, their effort to build their own in-house movement. Struthers also became the first watchmaker in the United Kingdom to complete a Ph.D program, making her the country's first "watch doctor."
Show Notes
3:00: Lewis' Dubley & Schaldenbrand watch
4:59: Rebecca's HSNY talk on Dutch forgeries
8:38: Hands on Time, by Rebecca Struthers (publisher page); read the Hodinkee review here
9:16: Value Proposition: The AnOrdain Model 1
9:50: AnOrdain and Struthers Project 248 enamel dials
14:04: Hands-On: AnOrdain Model 1 'Fume'
33:45: British Horological Institute
58:00: Rebecca's Movado Weems watch
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My guest this week is Sylvain Berneron. Sylvain is a designer and the founder of one of the most exciting young watch brands. Before starting Berneron, Sylvain spent five years at Breitling, where he eventually became Chief Product Officer. There, he helped completely revamp and build a product portfolio after the brand’s acquisition. Before Breitling, he was also a watch designer at Richemont, working on projects for its portfolio of brands.
He got his start designing motorcycles and cars, most notably for brands like BMW and Ducati.
Now, Berneron is leading his own brand, and his first watch, the Mirage, makes a statement. It’s an asymmetrical gold wristwatch that takes its shape from its caliber.
More important than his background though, he’s one of the most thoughtful guys around.
Sylvain and I talk about his career, what watch design is missing, and about building his brand and developing the Mirage.
Show Notes
1:11: Berneron's website
1:30: One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore Asymmetry On His Own
21:30: Breitling Sells Controlling Stake To CVC Capital Partners For $870 Million
39:00: Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra
1:01:54: After A Decade Working For Big Names, Simon Brette Steps Out On His Own
1:02:00: In Conversation With Xhevdet Rexhepi, Independent Watchmaking's Next Big Thing
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This week, we discuss a few new releases on our desks from VPC and Anoma which leads to a short discussion of the growing small-brand scene. We also jump into our thoughts on the new Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02. Finally, we talk about brand exhibits and spend some time chatting about a recent visit to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, and what made our jaws drop at the mecca of museums.
Show Notes
2:50: Hands-On: The VPC Type 37HW
3:00: Series on Fratello about the development of VPC
7:30: Anoma Watch (hands-on review to come)
8:20: Amida Digitrend
11:40: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan
15:05: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02
17:25: AP Chronicles on the original ref. 5159
25:00: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak
29:00: AP Chronicles 20mm Royal Oak from 1997
37:35: Patek Philippe Museum
44:30: Raúl Pagès Turns The Page With His Old-School Régulateur à Détente
45:30: Steel Patek Philippe 96 Sector Dial at Sotheby's
46:30: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million
47:45: Buying, Selling, Collecting: A Rare, Complicated Patek Calatrava You Might Not Have Known About Is Coming Up For Auction
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In this week's episode, I'm running the three-man weave with Ben and James. I gave the guys a bit of homework before we recorded. Last month, Ben mentioned in his review of the Rolex "Le Mans" Daytona that maybe we should do "A Week On (An Owner's) Wrist" reviews every once in a while. Talking about – and reviewing – watches that we've recently acquired. I thought it was a pretty good idea (nice, Ben!), so I called him up and said "Let's do it on the pod!" Of course, I had to get James in the mix as well to keep us grounded in reality (and Seiko). So each of us came ready to talk about two watches we've recently acquired. Why we bought them, what we like about them, and what we'd change if we could. We cover basically the entire range of watches, from Swatch to Seiko to maybe the hottest indie around.
1:30: Financial Times Luxury Live Summit
3:00: In-Depth: Marc Newson Opens Up About Ikepod, The Pathbreaking '90s Watch Brand That's Cool All Over Again; Marc Newson Hourglass for Hodinkee
6:30: Ben's Watch Spotting at the Universal Geneve Meetup That Tony Definitely Read
7:50: Wind Vintage Universal Geneve Film Compax
9:40: Hands-On With (That Other) Universal Genve Film Compax
10:50: Ben's A Week On The Wrist With The Le Mans Daytona
14:50: James' A Week On The Wrist With The Tudor Pelagos 39
16:40: Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms
21:50: The Unimatic Carbon Limited Editions for Hodinkee
23:45: Hodinkee's first capsule collection with Unimatic
24:35: The 36mm Unimatic Modello Cinque
24:50: The Unimatic x Massena Lab Modello Cinque
26:10: Introducing: Rexhep Rexhepi Returns With A Sequel To The Award-Winning Chronomètre Contemporain
27:00: Ben's November 2023 Photo Report from Geneva
29:28: In-Depth: Gruebel Forsey Signature 1
32:15: Only Watch 2024 Auction Results
34:00: Hands-On: Swatch Adds Six Watches To Its Neon Collection Just In Time For Summer
38:10: Watches in the Wild: Thailand: Episode 1
38:45: Hodinkee's 10 Favorite Seikos of All Time
40:40: James' Review Of The New Seiko "24MAS" Divers
42:58: James' A Week On The Wrist With the Seiko SPB143
44:30: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue, Monopusher And All
47:00: A Collector's Guide To 1970s Cartier Watches
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