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Welcome to Episode 6 of Ana & Al’s Big Portuguese Wine Adventure and a story woven through so many layers of history it’s hard to know where to start.
The boulder fields around the World Heritage city of Évora - in the heart of Alentejo wine country - give the name to one of Alentejo’s most famous and famously expensive wines.
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Pêra Manca which means “wobbling” or “rolling” stone, is made in only the finest years and it sells for hundreds of euros a bottle
But the name “Peramanca” dates back centuries.
In the year 1500, bottles of the already famous Évora regional wine were said to be on board explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral’s ship when he landed in Brazil.
The winery producing the latest iteration of Pêra Manca is called Cartuxa, (pronounced Car-TOUSH-ah) which is at the centre of this story.
For decades the silent presence of an ancient order of monks has guarded Cartuxa’s most precious bottles in a dark dusty cellar beneath a lake.
We were lucky enough to spend a couple of hours in the Santa Maria da Scala Coeli monastery - a name meaning “Stairway to Heaven.”
It’s now closed to visitors, but we toured a place built in the late 1500s for the Carthusian monastic order which was founded by an 11th century saint.
You can read much more all about St Bruno of Cologne, and the link between Green Chartreuse, Charterhouse schools, the Rolling Stones and the Stairway to Heaven in this previous article.
But we’re here for the wine.
Pêra Manca was a name which would have been doomed to obscurity had it not been for the Count of Vill’alva.
Vasco Maria Eugénio de Almeida – Count Vasco de Vill’alva – was the last heir to a family fortune and the founder of the Eugénio de Almeida Foundation in 1963.
He fell in love with Évora, the Alentejo and the monastery his grandfather had bought in 1871, and it was just one of the historic buildings he restored in the city.
He even invited the Carthusian monks back for the first time since the Portuguese dissolution of the monasteries in 1834.
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The foundation runs programmes for arts and culture, scholarship and support and puts profits back into the foundation.
It supports the farming community mostly through grape and olive planting and owns Cartuxa.
That’s the connection: the reason that bottles of Pêra Manca languish under the monastery lake.
Cartuxa has 600ha of vineyards and produces a whole range of wines from its Monte de Pinheiros winery which gives its name to the “entry level” brand.
Cartuxa’s most well recognised bottles are labelled “EA” taking the initials of the foundation, but their whole portfolio of wines include Cartuxa branded wines, Scala Coeli (taking its name from the monastery) right up to Pêra-Manca reds which sell for hundreds of euros a bottle.
Made from the same blocks of the same two Portuguese grapes Aragonez and Trincadeira, the wines are only produced if they’re good enough to hold the historic name handed over to the foundation in 1987 by descendants of the Casa Soares family.
The characteristic label is adapted from a famous 18th century advert.
I haven’t tried it yet – but here’s the story of a vertical tasting from someone who has. If you can find one and afford one let us know what it’s like!
I hope you enjoy this episode’s dip into a different part of Portuguese history.
We’d love to know what you think about our podcast, and please help us spread it by rating it and sharing it with your friends.
See you next time,
A&A
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Hey there are welcome to Episode 5 of Ana & Al’s Big Portuguese Wine Adventure.
This episode we take an even deeper dive into Portugal’s Roman history through Torre de Palma - a wine hotel built on the remains of a Roman winemaking villa.
Mosaics discovered by archaeologists at Torre de Palma are now being protected at the National Museum of Archaeology in Lisbon.
Portugal loves to celebrate its many layers of history and so we begin this story at a Roman reenactment festival in Beja, the capital of the Lower Alentejo.
We meet a real life Roman soldier, a god of wine, tour a beautiful wine hotel and its cathedral of a cellar and plunge into the story of two families with similar ideas…separated by nearly two thousand years of history.
And after figuratively plunging into Alentejo’s winemaking so far in the series, this time we literally plunge into it…up to our knees in fermenting grapes to crush them underfoot.
I’ve already written about Roman winemaking history and our adventures at Torre de Palma, so rather than repeating it all, please have a read (once you’ve listened to the episode).
We do a wine tasting with head winemaker Duarte de Deus (whose last name means “of God”) and try a Tinta Miúda grape.
He says it “gives freshness to the red wines – it gives the salt and pepper to that special wine, you know, that special touch. It's really elegant.”
And there’s even a connection to Luís Duarte - one of the former Esporão winemakers we met in Episode 2.
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He designed the vineyard, choosing the grapes and setting up the winemaking.
If you haven’t heard that episode yet do have a listen.
Thanks so much for following our journey - please tell all your friends about us and of course you can find this podcast series in all the usual places.
And don’t forget to check in here to see the bonus content we post each week for a deeper dive into that week’s wine, winery or story.
See you soon,
A&A
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I love talking about talha or amphora wine - it’s one of the most exciting and popular winemaking techniques in the Alentejo.
It’s natural wine, it’s gastronomic, and it works well with the traditional Alentejo foods like black pork…but it doesn’t taste like regular wine.
Talha has an earthiness about it and is often quite heavy - like a lot of wines from Alentejo have traditionally been.
But everyone here wants to make some wine in a clay pot - that’s why the ancient vessels are so hard to get hold of!
And so winemakers are using talhas as one of the tools of their trade along with barrels and stainless steel vessels - to give certain tastes and flavours to their wines.
That doesn’t mean they all throw their whole field-blended harvest, stalks and all, into an amphora and leave it there until November 11th.For this week’s bonus episode we’re being bundled into a car by Gerações de Talha’s Teresa Caeiro who took us to a talk we just couldn’t miss, while celebrating the opening of the talhas in Vila de Frades (Friars’ Town).
For this week’s bonus episode we’re being bundled into a car by Gerações de Talha’s Teresa Caeiro who took us to a talk we just couldn’t miss, while celebrating the opening of the talhas in Vila de Frades (Friars’ Town).
She took us to Natus - a fabulous small collection wine produced by Hamilton Reis…whose day job is head winemaker at Mouchão where we’ll be heading later in the series.
He explained how it took him so long to come up with the perfect use for his talhas and about his passion project.
Have a listen!
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We hope you like it - please tell your friends to subscribe for the podcast and the extra weekly bonus episodes we put out there if the episode is of particular interest.
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One of the hottest trends in Portuguese winemaking is using amphorae clay pots - just like the Roman’s did two thousand years ago.
In Portugal they are known as talhas, and it’s the way people in Alentejo have been making wine for generations - fermenting field-blended grapes in ancient clay vessels to produce young wines.
In the town of Vila de Frades (Friars’ Town) they claim to have been making it this way - constantly - since Roman times
The clue’s in the title of course…the monks had a thirst for it and the nearby monastery was built on the site of a Roman villa and vineyard.
And Vinho de Talha has its own DOC geographical classification (Denominação de Origem Controlada), even though it can be made in various parts of Alentejo.
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We’re taking a similar, broader approach this episode by basing our story around Vila de Frades in Vidigueira rather than just at one winery.
I’ve written quite a bit about talha winemaking over the last couple of years, so here are a few links to articles for you to read at your leisure.
It’s tough to find a talha that’s less than a hundred years old as the skills to make them and the kilns to fire them have been lost.
Vila de Frades is a small, typical Alentejo town with different coloured barras around the buildings – yellows and blues and reds.
There’s a little walkway in the centre of town, lined with orange trees which were in blossom when we visited.
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There are talha cellars throughout town and on the corner of the main road is the Interpretative Centre which is a beautiful modern museum.
The other country famous for its amphora wine making is Georgia (the country, not the State!), but there they call them qvevri - and bury them.
The museum has bottles that you look through for videos and to smell a wine, there’s a table with two overhead projectors.
We met the mayor of Vidigueira, Rui Raposo, who explained why he wants talha wines to be given heritage status by UNESCO...as happened with Cante Alentenjao singing, which you’ll also hear this episode.
We visit Gerações de Talha – a small winery set up by Teresa Caeiro who gave up a career in diamond mining to return to her roots for love and to make wine with her grandfather Prof Arlindo Ruivo.
They have a few different wines including Natalia and Farrapo and she explains the whole process - including the story of “the mother and the son”.
We tour ROCIM with winemaker Pedro Ribeiro who champions amphorae and whose latest wine sells for €1000 a bottle.
We had dinner and did a blind wine tasting at O País das Uvas which has a "Cella Vinaria Antiqua (Historical Wine Cellar)."
Ruben Honrado is managing partner of Honrado Vineyards and he gave us a wine tasting with a difference – a blind tasting where we drank from black glasses and were challenged to tell red wine from white, and talha wine from more regular blends.
We hope you enjoy the episode - it’s one of our favourite stories so far.
A&A
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We packed so much into our third episode on the Plansel winery - new wine grapes, why every new grape plant must be grafted on to an American rootstock…and the great story of Jorge Bohm, Dorina Lindemann and three generations of winemakers.
But one of the things we wanted to tell you more about was their international wine school, and so that’s the topic for this week’s bonus episode.
It’s a basic introduction to wines and wine tasting, so if you’re already an expert please skip straight on to our next episode where we dive deep into the Roman history of Portugal’s wine.
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While immersing ourselves in the wines of Alentejo, we’ve been trying to improve our broader wine knowledge, and so signed up for an online course with the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust (WSET).
I’ve written about it more detail before - here’s an introduction to the course we joined…and to three grapes you may not have heard about before.
Once Dorina Lindemann heard about it she scolded us for not trying all the international grape varieties and wines and so invited us along to Plansel for one of the courses Wilmy Matum was running.
She’s a Dutch wine exporter and qualified trainer and was hosting a group of students from all over the world for her course.
In this bonus episode she tells us all about WSET, about why the description of wine needs to be standardised and what she teaches here in Portugal.
The wine school is on hiatus at the moment, but if you’re interested in applying for a course, you can email: [email protected]
Please let us know what you think of the podcast series so far - and the bonus episodes we’re dropping. We’d love to know what you think?
And in the next episode we’ll be diving deep into Portugal’s Roman history of wine.
Thanks for following our adventure! Please spread the word…
A&A
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This episode we discover how a shipwrecked German wine heir accidentally changed Portuguese wines from the roots up, and why his daughter Dorina Lindemann began her winemaking journey with a fizz.
Now her daughters are following in the family’s footsteps at Quinta da Plansel winery and plant nursery.
We visit their estate in Montemor-o-Novo to learn about vinhos and vinhas – grapes and vines – the varieties, the grafts and the pesky pests that ruined Europe’s vineyards for half a century.
After a gentle introduction to Portugal’s wines and grapes, this episode we are learning a lot: how to make champagne, we meet a couple of new grape varieties…and we head into the classroom to start our formal wine training.
But we begin with some hard graft.
Now in his 80s, Jorge explained how two types of vines were being grafted together by hand as half-metre lengths of American roots were being cut and interlocked with small clippings of Portuguese grape varieties using something called an “omega cut.”
It’s how almost all European grapes survive the destructive phylloxera pest that arrived from America in the second half of the nineteenth century and still bugs vineyards today.
“It was phylloxera, it was oidium and mildew. These diseases destroyed the European wine culture for half a century,” said Jorge, who has dedicated his life to Portuguese grapes after washing up in Lisbon in 1961 when a damaged sailing boat nipped his voyage to the Seychelles in the bud.
Wine was in his blood as heir to a centuries old German “Hock” family which was shipping millions of bottles to the US and UK.
But while exporting Portuguese wine home, Jorge realised how unpredictable its quality could be, and when the family business took a downturn in the 1970s he decided to help do something about it.
“Portugal has officially 340 different varieties in the national catalogue of grapevine varieties, but there are very few – about 80 or 90 which are really studied,” Jorge said.
He knows because he moved here to study and help develop them.
“The process of grape vine production is a technology which has been developed since the beginning of the last century.”
American root stocks were resistant to the phylloxera, oidium and mildew which invaded unprotected European vineyards when they arrived aboard ship.
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Grafting the old, traditional varieties on to the resistant roots allowed wineries to rebuild, recover and thrive, but the pests remain and the process continues today.
Once grafted, wax is used to protect the join and the little Frankensteins are packed into boxes with peat and substrate to be locked away in a warming room for two or three weeks to grow together.
They are then planted in the ground for a while before being uprooted, pruned and sold to winemakers – and wannabes like us – in Portugal and all over the world.
The nursery began 40 years ago with a an in-depth study of Portuguese grapes and now produces one and a half million planting vines a year.
Back in the late 1970s, Jorge worked with the Portuguese government and winemaking universities of Évora in Alentejo and Geisenheim in Germany to select the top 40 most promising grapes, made a load of wine and took it on a global tasting road trip.
“We went to France to Montpellier University, to the Masters of Wine in London, to the university of Geisenheim and even to America to make a ranking of which are the best in the world and by this knowledge we started our breeding programme,” he said.
“The result was always the same: the Touriga Nacional was normally the best and we started to build up these varieties in different forms.”
He wrote a thick reference book on their work and began to select the best clones to make the best wines.
Plansel also hosts an International Wine School which is featured in the podcast.
Here’s an introduction to the course we joined…and to three grapes you may not have heard about before.
“In 1980 my daddy brought 150 native varieties down to the Alentejo to be planted here. We tested them for quality, quantity, performance and everything,” said Dorina Lindemann, Jorge’s daughter who moved here in 1993 after studying oenology in Germany.
She was dedicated to following the increasing international trend towards using single grape varieties for her wines.
“I started with monovarietal wines, but nobody wanted to taste my wines because everybody in Portugal was used to the blends – they had at least a five, six or seven grape varieties mixture. It changed, but the beginning was very hard for me.”
Dorina Lindemann still produces single variety wines, fresh sparkling wines and powerful blends from Quinta da Plansel.
Her two daughters are following her into the business and her father still wanders remote vineyards in the summer heat looking for new clones.
“He goes every day to the field: he goes to Spain, to the borders, he looks for which Aragonez [grape] has got more resistant, thicker skins,” said Dorina.
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Bordeaux has elevated Touriga Nacional, one of the most famous Portuguese grapes, as an official grape for use in their famous and famously regulated blends – and that’s because they thrive in the searing temperatures of the Alentejo and the climate is changing.
“We did never overcome the problem of what happened in 1850, when the English imported plants from America and brought the diseases,” said Jorge.
“We reacted not by finding a variety which was resistant, but by using an excess of chemical intervention. And chemical intervention is not the solution.
“It is destroying the bees and a thousand other things, and this cannot be a solution. It was a solution for 100 years, but it's not the future.
“And that's why I'm working on that – I think this is important to maintain a natural, growing culture,” he said about his continuing, lifelong vocation of finding the perfect grapes.
* To find out where you can buy Plansel wines where you live contact their online store here
* Plansel also do tours and tasting visits and have accommodation
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Herdade do Esporão has a huge range of wines from the entry level Monte Velho to the once-in-a-blue-moon Torre…with all sorts of wines in between.
These are some of the Alentejo wines that you are most likely to find all over the world.
There are links to UK and US suppliers below so you can order the wines and drink along with João Ramos’ amazing tasting.
João’s moved on - back to Setúbal - and also makes his own amazing wines…but the wines he talked us through were wines made on his watch!
Of course the best way to try these wines is to come and visit!
Esporão serve the most amazing lunches, dinners, tastings and pairings at their winery (and Michelin starred restaurant) in Alentejo…or you could come to see us in Vale das Estrelas and we’ll sort you out!
We hope you enjoy our deep dive tasting into the wines of Esporão - please let us know what you think about these bonus episodes and what more you’d like to hear.
And please spread the word about our podcast series - we’re excited to get it out there and to tell our stories to new listeners.
As promised, here are the places where you can buy Esporão wines in the US and UK. If you speak to real people, do mention us when you buy (we don’t get a cut, but it’d be good for us if you could let them know!)
To order in the US contact Now Wine, or buy them directly from wine.com here.
And if you’re listening in the UK, you can buy Esporão wines here:
* The Wine Society
* Field & Fawcett
* Great Grog
* Bon Coeur
* Cheers Wine Merchants
* Cambridge Wine Merchants
Please watch out for the next episode which will be from Plansel nursery and winery.
Thanks for listening,
A&A
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Now it’s time to head deep into the heart of Alentejo wine country: the hot, dry interior where most of the region’s wines are produced.
This episode is centred around the Esporão winery and some of its iconic winemakers, to help tell the story of a wine revolution which has shaped the Alentejo over the past 40 years.
Portugal’s wine history goes back even further than the Romans, who brought large scale wine-making to the Iberian Peninsula.
The Catholic Church and its sacrament kept the vineyards producing, and after England fell out with France it came to Portugal for its wine…and Port was born.
During the four decades of dictatorship under António de Oliveira Salazar and the regime’s “Estado Novo” or “New State” plan, centuries of wine history in Alentejo were erased when vines were ripped out to be replaced by cereals…in a region never really suitable for grains.
In 1974 the Carnation Revolution brought the regime to an end, and after a few years of instability, the Alentejo – with its sunshine, rich soils and multiple microclimates – began to once again emerge as the home of amazing wines.
Drink along with our podcast series! If you want to buy Esporão wines in the US or UK there are links at the end of this post
José Roquette bought Esporão in 1973, but the post-revolutionary communist movement seized the property until it was returned in the mid 1980s, when he began re-planting, modernising, hiring, and producing great wine.
“It was something incredible,” says Luís Duarte, who joined Esporão in 1987 straight out of the very first oenology class at the University of Trás-os-Montes close to the Douro in Vila Real.
That marked the beginning of Portugal’s modern approach to winemaking.
“When I arrived we started building one of the most famous and beautiful wineries in Portugal, but it was very difficult to build in three months: below the ground with big tunnels – it was crazy,” Luís said.
A few years later he was joined by David Baverstock, an Australian winemaker who by then had met his Portuguese wife and had been in Portugal for a decade.
“In the early days, when I first came over here, it was very hit or miss,” said David.
“You’d buy red wine in a supermarket and it was maybe a little bit fizzy, a bit gassy or dirty or something because the malolactic fermentation hadn't been properly controlled. There were a lot of basic winemaking faults back then.
“A lot of it was just sort of handed down from generation to generation, there wasn't a lot known about the grape varieties, and suddenly they realised they've got these 250 indigenous grape varieties that no other country in the world has.”
Portugal’s entry into the then European Economic Community (EEC) in 1986 made a huge difference.
“The money just poured in: the roads got better, there was money for vineyards and wineries,” added David.
And the money was put to good use – investment in research, stainless steel tanks, temperature-controlled fermentation, university courses and the knowledge to grow the right grapes in the right places.
The region is now the biggest producer for the domestic market. Unlike the narrow terraced hillsides of the Douro, the wide rolling hills provide plenty of space for more vineyards and mechanised harvesting.
Deep below the ground, Esporão’s cellar is as impressive today with an amazing and refreshingly cool temperature despite the intense Alentejo heat.
The cavernous cellar space resembles a cathedral or a subterranean football field.
“Or a metropolitan station – an underground station?” suggested Sandra Alves, the third winemaker we spoke to for this lesson in wine history…and who gave us a tour of the iconic winery.
It’s a great place to visit in Reguengos de Monsaraz, and well set up for visitors, with tours, tastings and restaurant with a Michelin star and a Michelin green star for sustainability.
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José Roquette’s son João took over the running of the winery and made another ambitious step in the 2000s when he decided the whole estate should become organic.
With more than 600ha of vines, Esporão is now one of the top ten largest organic vineyards in the world.
Esporão produces a whole range of wines in Alentejo from the famous mass-market Monte Velho to the Reservas, Private Selection bottles and the “Torre” wines which are only produced in exceptional years.
Named after the famous tower, they have only been released from the 2004, 2007, 2011 and 2017 vintages, picked up a lot of points from wine critics and sell for hundreds of euros.
To receive a bonus episode features a wine tasting of Esporão’s range of wines by former winemaker João Ramos please sign up as a paid subscriber
All Alentejo’s eight DOC’s (Denominaçãos de Origem Controlada) nuzzle up to the border with Spain.
Any regional wines not produced inside a DOC are known as “Alentejano” wines.
“We started to follow the ideas that David brought from Australia – from the new world,” said Luís Duarte, of the time when Esporão started to experiment.
“When this happened it was very important for Portugal because it added a lot of people with knowledge of the new technology,” which Luís said led to increased confidence from investors that Portuguese wine was a good place to spend their money.
“We belong to the old world of wine but we are very new in terms of our knowledge,” especially when compared to places like France that didn’t suffer the disruption of dictatorship.
“The generalisation is still that Alentejo can produce very, very easy drinking commercial style wines in quite big volumes,” added David Baverstock.
“There's a general stereotype, particularly with the reds, that they're going to be a bit on the heavier side, they're going to have soft tannins...a fair bit of alcohol and they're going to be quite ripe fruit flavour.”
But he explained winemakers are now moving towards making fresher and more elegant wines which the different terroirs and better understanding of Portuguese grapes encourages.
“Alentejo is really drinkable wine, a really intense wine – at some stage really fruity. Almost exotic for an American market, but at the same time, it's gastronomic as well,” said Sandra Alves, looking out over the parched soil, the cork oak trees and the big skies.
“All the intensity that you see all around you...all this yellow and green and blue – I think the wines show these colours, all this intensity is everything very powerful, very intense, very unique.
“I would say that you need to taste to understand and you need to come here as well to understand what I'm talking about,” she said.
Of all the wines we’re drinking in this series, Esporão is one of the easiest for you to find outside of Portugal.
To order in the US contact Now Wine, or buy them directly from wine.com here.
And if you’re listening in the UK, you can buy Esporão wines here:
* The Wine Society
* Field & Fawcett
* Great Grog
* Bon Coeur
* Cheers Wine Merchants
* Cambridge Wine Merchants
Please let us know how that goes…and we’ll see you next time for a lesson in grafting grapes and some wine classes for us at Plansel.
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You’ve heard the story of Vicentino…now enjoy a tour around the new winery.
Every week when we launch a new episode of the podcast we will be putting out a midweek deeper dive into one aspect: the winery, the winemaker or the story.
Episode 1 is just down the road from our new home on this wild Alentejo west coast and they’ve just built a huge new winery to produce and showcase their wines.
We followed their progress - we captured the moment when their roof went on in May 2023.
The building was finished just in time for the 2023 harvest and general manager of Vicentino Wines, Filipe Caetano, pulled out the first wine to be bottled at the new winery.
“This is a wine made with Arinto and it is unfiltered - so that’s the first one,” he grinned - the bottle was still waiting for its label.
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“It’s from one of our ranges of wines, which is the Naked range, which is wines with the lowest intervention possible.”
The head winemaker is Bernardo Cabral who also consults with other wineries and is known for his winemaking on Pico island in the Açores.
The resident assistant winemaker is Ana Rita Bouça, and having worked in the Açores and in New Zealand, is excited about the saltiness of Vicentino wines.
“I fell in love for salty wines when I was working at Pico,” Ana Rita said.
“Always in my life I have been very close to the ocean. So for me the proximity to the ocean is very important.”
Little expense has been spared in the new winery with concrete tulips, stainless steel tanks and lines of wooden barrels.
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“The purpose is really to allow to give all the conditions to the winemakers team to deliver the best wines possible,” said Filipe who took us down into the cellar which is partly built underground to expose the bedrock.
Please let us know what you think about our Bonus Episode - deep dives into a winery may not be for everyone, so feel free to pass over these additional updates and make sure you listen in every weekend when new episodes drop.
And here is Episode 1 for you to enjoy, in case you haven’t heard it yet.
And if you’d like to get hold of some Vicentino wines to try, the easiest way is to come and see us here in the Valley of the Stars…and to visit Vicentino.
But while you wait, it is available in the UK at the moment through Vindependents - here’s the link.
See you next time, when we’re heading deep into traditional Alentejo wine country to visit the legendary Esporão winery.
A&A x
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Our part of Portugal is known as the last wild coast in Europe and it’s a beautiful place to start a podcast series on Portuguese wine.
Long-distance hikers pound the Rota Vicentina Fisherman’s trail which follows more than 200km of clifftops, surfing spots and secret beaches on the country’s Atlantic west coast.
And one stretch of this epic two week walk features the first winery on the list for our Big Portuguese Wine Adventure – Vicentino.
The wines are fresh and fruity and instilled with the saltiness of the Atlantic Ocean which their 60 hectares of grape vines overlook.
We decided to start local: Vicentino is the nearest vineyard to the place we now call home in Portugal’s Alentejo region.
The Spanish might call it Allan-tay-HOE, but here in Portugal it’s Allan-tay-JOE and it’s Portugal’s biggest province covering a third of the country.
As early adopters to The Big Portuguese Wine Adventure blog will know – the name comes from Alem-Tejo...Portuguese for “beyond” the Tejo, or Tagus River, on which Lisbon is situated.
And we are?
We travelled the world together as a diplomat and journalist couple, but one day we decided to give up our jobs and move to the Portuguese countryside – to build an eco-luxe lodge (which is almost finished!) and learn about wine.
Inspired by a scraggy line of overgrown grapes that emerged from our land when we moved in, we decided to plant our own vineyard and maybe one day make our own wine...but first there was a lot of learning to do!
Our house isn’t connected to any municipal water or power grid and so we also had to learn how to live off-the-grid.
If you want to read how hard that’s been, Al also writes a blog called Off-Grid and Ignorant in Portugal, but given his previous job as a BBC foreign correspondent we thought making a podcast series was more in our comfort zone!
We’ve spent the last couple of years exploring Alentejo’s history and geography through wine, winemakers and the stories they tell...and wanted to share our journey with you.
So thanks for reading, but most importantly thanks for listening, and welcome to Episode 1!
So what’s Alentejo wine?
Vicentino doesn’t make wine that is typical to this region.
Most Alentejo wines are grown inland – far from the moderating effect of the ocean – and are heavier, stronger and more powerful with all the heat and sunshine.
Alentejo produces more than 40% of Portugal’s wines and is known for its great value, easy drinking reds, as well as some amazing white wines.
But it’s also home to talha wine – made in amphorae or clay pots like the Romans did two thousand years ago...and people here have been making it that way ever since.
We’ll be delving into the heart of Alentejo wine country in Episode 2 and trying some talha later in the series, but for the first instalment we’re drinking pinot noir naked and learning the connection between French grapes, cat pee and the Beatles.
Salivating storytellers
Our guide to Vicentino is maverick Norwegian owner Ole Martin Siem who salivates over the Chardonnay grapes gifted to him from Burgundy and talks in simple terms about taste and bouquet.
We’re not wine experts, just enthusiastic amateurs, eager to demystify wine appreciation and its sometime intimidating language, and Ole Martin enthusiastically sets us off on that path.
He has farmed in Alentejo since the 1980s but is relatively new to winemaking – his first grapes were planted in 2007 – but Vicentino is now one of the biggest Pinot Noir producers in Portugal and is doing something a little bit different.
Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Alvarinho and Arinto are among the 250 indigenous Portuguese grapes which are grown in Vicentino’s vineyards and we’ll learn much more about them later in the series.
But international grapes including Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Chardonnay all do really well on this coast – as they do in regions with similar climates, latitudes and ocean influence: South Africa’s Western Cape and the Californian Central Coast.
Listening and learning
In every half hour episode we learn a new skill – starting off this time at the very beginning of the growing season with pruning, and some advice about what to do with our scraggy, overgrown vines.
We stop to have a “Clink and a Think” about Portuguese wine history dating back to 800BC and the Phoenicians, and hear a great story about this remarkable “green triangle” of agricultural land and why the viticulturalists have their eye on our coast.
But let’s not spoil the journey! You can find The Big Portuguese Wine Adventure wherever you get your podcasts: Spotify, Apple Podcasts...you name it.
I need a drink
Portuguese wine makers like to keep the best for themselves, so it’s not always easy to get hold of the wines we’ve been tasting and discovering.
Obviously the best way to taste the wine is to drop by our place Vale das Estrelas (or the Valley of the Stars).
Our eco-luxe lodge is opening this year and we’re stocking our cellar full of Alentejo wines.
The views are outstanding, the wines are great and the stories are even better.
I really need a drink...now
While you plan your trip to Portugal we’ll help you get hold of the wines we’re tasting wherever you are...when they’re available.
It’s tough to find them in the US right now, but there are some stockists you can find in the UK through Vindependents.
PODCAST SCRIPT:
ANA: Hello, I’m Ana.
AL: And I’m Al. Helloooo
ANA: And welcome to Ana and Al’s Big Portuguese wine adventure!
AL: We used to have proper jobs – I was a foreign correspondent, and Ana was a diplomat, but we decided to give up all the globetrotting to move here...
ANA: To southwestern Portugal...
AL: It’s so beautifully quiet and peaceful here...the view over the forests and the mountains is just stunning.
ANA: Yeah, Alentejo is this landscape of rolling hills, cork oaks and olive trees. My dad’s family is from Alentejo, but further inland. Here we are closer to the ocean.
AL: When we moved here we found those scraggy vines just over there by the fruit trees...about 20 of them...they must be pretty old...
ANA: They’re on the slope at the edge of a terrace and they’re a complete mess…
AL: totally overgrown with bramblesand I have no idea what kind of grapes they are.
ANA: Our lovely friend Baptiste, who happens to own a real wine-estate in France kindly called these little things “A not un-managable parcel.”
AL: Haha...but it did get us thinking: maybe we could plant our own grapes and make our own wine down here or up on the flat land on top of the hill.
ANA: So after decades on the road we are finally putting down some roots
AL: literally as well as figuratively.
ANA: But first we have so much to learn about wine – especially Portuguese wine. AL: Which is why we’re going on a big adventure to learn as much as we can.
and rather than keeping it all to ourselves we thought you might like to join us!
ANA: At least we know a few of the basics....
AL: P is for Port
ANA: V is for Vinho Verde
AL: T is for Touriga Nacional, A is for Aragonez...but I’m getting ahead of myself. There are very few places in the world where you can buy such good value wine.
ANA: And so many are now getting noticed around the world. Remember the wine merchant we met in California? He told us that compared to other European countries you can’t buy that quality at this price whether you want fine wine, of value-for-money vino.
ANA: In each episode we’ll go to a different vineyard in Portugal, go behind the scenes, hear the maverick winemakers tell some great stories as we ask stupid questions so you don’t have to.
AL: If you’re as curious about Portuguese wine as we are – with a bit of history and exploring on the side – then you’ve come to the right place!
ANA: So welcome to Ana and Al’s
AL: Big Portuguese Wine Adventure.
ANA: Episode One.
AL: Vineyard One.
ANA: Vicentino
AL: So…there they are…fields of dormant vines…waiting for the perfect temperature to burst into life.
ANA: Vicentino vineyard is just 20 minutes from our house and it’s a great story to start us off.
AL: In this episode we’ll learn the connection between French grapes, cat pee and the Beatles.
ANA: We’ll try drinking pinot noir naked
AL: We will?
ANA: You’ll see.
AL: I hope so.
ANA: Haha. I’ll develop some serious secateur envy.
AL: And there’s a strong Scandinavian connection...
OM: My name is Ole Martin Siam. I’m a Norwegian and I came out here for 35 years ago for the first time. I've been building up this farm which we are standing from scratch. I didn't think of wine before 2007.
AL: Wow, you didn't think about wine before then?
OM Well, I consumed wine, I enjoyed wine but not gave it any thought of producing wine.
AL So what was the business to start with?
OM Frupor is the name of the company and we are in vegetables, decorative foliage, which is leaves you never asked for, but you get when you buy flowers.
OM And wine was on my desk many times but I said it's so competitive. It's so many doing it is so different from what we are doing. So I said no, no, no, no, no. Until I read that good wine is all about producing good grapes. So I said well, we are good growers. We are professional and growing. So I started reading more and found out obviously that we are in a very special terroir compared to the rest of Alentejo, because we are so close to the sea. So the temperatures are much lower in the summertime it's milder in the winter, but lower in the summertime. So I thought maybe it can be different enough to stand out in the marketplace and have a chance to do something special. The first plants were planted in 2007.
AL Is that when you came in, or have you been a later addition to the business?
Filipe No, actually I joined very, very recently. I'm a newcomer. Not to the region, because I've been here quite a lot of times during the years…
Filipe And I'm, yeah, I'm Filipe Caetano. That's my name. I'm Portuguese. And I joined to be the head of the wine business.
AL Excellent. That's good. All right. Well, let's have a little tour then. Shall we? got the keys? In the car?
Filipe Okay, so we will possibly go to the first vineyard.
AL: They now have 60 hectares of grapes on this flat strip of land on the edge of the world.
ANA: Yeah – that’s what it feels like. The cliffs on this wild coast are rugged and steep. This vineyard is a bit of a frontier for wine making.
AL: Most of Alentejo’s grapes are grown far inland where it’s super-hot in the summer – totally different from this seaside climate – which is similar to the Californian coast or parts of South Africa, ANA: And that had a lot to do with Ole Martin’s decision making.
OM This is Touriga National on the left and Sav Blanc on the right.
AL Why did you choose to put sav blanc in first of all?
OM Because w’re close to the sea. I love Sauvignon Blanc. It's a good reason in itself. But it's also I thought it was a good grape that would thrive well here and I was proven right. I would say after these years it's our best seller. It was launched in 2015. And it went right up to the top I would say our winemaker was announced the winemaker of the year. The Michelin star restaurants all wanted it on their list. So that was a good start.
AL It certainly was! (Laughs)
AL Yeah. Can we jump out to talk about it?
AL So this is the to Touriga National…it's an indigenous grape to Portugal.
OM Touriga National is a red grape. It is very Portuguese. And it's, I would say the national grape of Portugal (on the reds). It's a bit forceful grown in the interior. It's very forceful wine. Heavy, full of all aromas. And down here at the sea we get it slightly more elegant...meaning less forceful.
ANA: Ole Martin is a bit of a maverick – he comes from a big Norwegian shipping family, but took himself houw in the 1980s before Portugal joined the European Union to develop a farm.
AL: And as he did then, he’s now doing something very different in terms of winemaking for Alentejo.
OM: So basically, you have some Sav Blanc, going south, all the way continuous on the other side of the road. Whereas these lots here we have Touriga National, Semillion Blanc and Aragonez
AL: Yet another Portuguese
OM Yes other Portuguese and then you have some Syrah. You have some Pinot Noir as we talked about. And you have Alvarinho which you see just across -the other Portuguese. And on top of that we have Arinto…
Filipe Lately we have Chardonnay.
OM Obviously Chardonnay another little story I can tell you afterwards. Pinot Noir is another non Portuguese grape. Also a wine, I I love. Now we are the biggest Pinot Noir growers in Portugal today. But the thinking here was also that we are in the cooler climates in the summertime and Pinot Noir is very picky in terms of the soil, the climate and the farmer and I fit I'll give it a lot of love and care it will not deliver.
ANA: Let's take a few minutes to have a wonder. Let's check out what this area is famous for.
AL: We can't just talk about wine. I mean, you need to get a feeling for the place and this beautiful stretch of coastline. Wow, isn't this amazing?
ANA: It’s so gorgeous. So here it is. This is the Atlantic coast. This is what makes the Vicentino wines so special.
AL: Yes, it's a beautiful stretch of coast. The idea is that every time we go to a vineyard, we're going to go for a wander and give you a bit of a sense of what it's like around and about. Paint a picture, if you like, to get a sense of the place.
ANA: And here that's really, really easy. I mean, we're walking along the fisherman's trail on Rota Vicentina, which is on the Vicentino coast and stone's throw away from the vineyard.
AL: Yeah, it's beautiful how the Atlantic crashes into these cliffs here. It's very dramatic.
ANA: Look, this natural park is totally unspoiled; the surfers just love it here. And there's some pretty good seafood to be had.
AL: Yeah, I mean, I've been dabbling with fishing but not very seriously. But you often see the fisherman perched on these steep cliffs casting from the cliffs into the ocean below.
ANA: I mean, we love this coast. It's so beautiful. And even in the high season, you can find yourself a little secret beach with practically nobody else on it.
AL: Yeah, I love the geology just the the way the rocks are all folded and twisted. I love to know what caused this millions of years ago.
Ana This is very lovely. We're just walking through some shady trees over a path which runs next to a creek which you might be hearing in the background and yes, we're also flanked by gorgeous almost bamboo-stick canas or reeds ...
AL: Boa tarde Marta. How are you? We found you. Thanks, Alastair. Hi. Nice to meet you.
Marta Cabral Nice to meet you too. already recording?
AL Yeah, why not?
Marta Cabral Nice.
AL Right, let's go there. It's lovely to have the view. This is Ana.
Ana Hello. Hi. Pleased to meet you.
Marta Cabral Pleased to meet you too. My name is Marta Cabral. I am the president of the association Rota Vicentina, which...manages all the trails connected to Rota Vicentina. This place was for 1000s of years, a very special, even mystical place. Because, you know, it's over 100 kilometres of wild coast. And it's really amazing. This is a big part. But for me, that's only the Instagram effect of it in the sense that there is so much more to live here, apart from the landscapes.
AL Vicentino, just behind us, obviously, almost share a name with you. Tell me about that relationship.
Marta Cabral Yes, so wine is an amazing asset from us Portuguese people. This area is not very traditional for local wines...people produced wines for their own house or for the neighbours, there are not many local good labels. And okay, this is one of them, so they are our partners.
AL: Marta, thanks very much.
ANA: Speaking of labels, I think Vicentino wines have done a stellar job of capturing the colours of this coast. All of their labels are beautifully stylized, modern, but in various shades of blue and pink depending on which time of day they represent.
AL: It really is a special part of the world, isn't it?
ANA: It is for us to come to and hike and walk our dogs. But for all Ole Martin it’s even more special. He's even more impressed by the land and what it has to offer.
AL You said that the terroir here was particularly special. What is it about the terroir here, not just the being so close. I can see the ocean from here actually has to do with that beautiful coastline. But what is it about the land?
OM How many hours do I have?
AL Can you do the short version? (Laughs)
OM This terroir is unique. And if you look at a Google map, and you look at Portugal, you see this green triangle...from just north of here into the mountains Monchique and then back out just north of Sagres.
AL So it goes right down from here in Alentejo down to the Algarve, which is very close. And are there many other wine makers in that triangle?
OM Now there isn’t. For now, I think there will be more as we go into time. However, because this has, if you go further north along the coast, you don’t have the same microclimates you have here you have what do you call it a certain wind pattern that brings in fresh airs from the ocean, and sends it in, and it goes back out, around Sagres, which cools down the summer temperature. And that’s very important. When you have 43 degrees in Beja, we will typically have around 30, maybe even less 28 degrees, which is perfect for the grapes.
Filiipe The other the other possible thing is the the fog.
Al: Yeah, I was gonna say the marine layer. That’s what made me think about, about California. And having that marine layer that comes in...
Filipe It's quite common that we have it even during summer that we have it until 11am many days, and that’s good.
AL And that’s good?
Filipe It’s good for the grapes yes. This is why these grapes that were chosen, are so well implanted here, because the it’s a quite mild climate or microclimate as we were talking compared specifically to the interior of Alentejo, where you find really hot and high temperatures. And here, it allows for these specific grapes to you know, to ripe very, very slowly. And that’s, that’s very important for the final result obviously.
OM This is only the first chapter of ten describing the speciality of this triangle. And this triangle is marked by manir rocks 6000 years old.
ANA It’s a monolith, it looks like a gigantic tooth.
OM There are quite a few – 25 or there abouts.
Filipe And they actually follow more or less this triangle.
AL: And the layers of Portuguese history have been piling up ever since then.
The perfect chance for a clink and a think about the past...
ANA: In terms of winemaking that probably started here around 800BC with the Phoenicians.
AL: Then the Romans spent centuries taking it to another level with their amphorae and cultivation techniques.
ANA: And the Christians that followed were big fans of wine.
AL: Not so much the Moors who invaded from North Africa in 711AD.
ANA: Portugal was under Islamic rule for 450 years – there are thousands of Arabic words in the Portuguese language.
AL: And AL-gharb – meaning “the west” – is where the name Algarve comes from. ANA: The Christian crusaders drove the Moors out...and wine has played a pretty important role here ever since.
AL: Sip & ah
AL So these are the Chardonnay. You’re saying how long have you had the Chardonnay in and then obviously younger looking?
OM Yes, they were planted in 2016 – 16 and 17. I’ve been sceptical on growing Chardonnay here in Portugal. My favourite wine is a good Chardonnay, and the wine I dislike the most as well, it’s the bad Chardonnay.
AL When it’s really buttery and oaky…
OM Yeah, you heard about the expression in the United States for instance, or asked which one do you like and they say ABC stands for Anything But Chardonnay it’s a lot of truth a lot of its oak and buttery and too much fruit and you know it’s...a little nose is sufficient. And we had we have some French friends…
OM We’re friends with Henri Boulant is a I call him the Beatles in the wine world and he in fourth/fifth generation produced excellent wines and the best part of Burgundy. They convinced him to come out and visit for him you know any wine outside Burgundy is nothing and particularly Sauvignon Blanc: that’s like cat pee. As most French and in particular for a bit snobbish? Yeah, yeah. Coming out here to Portugal seeing what was going on. He got everything confirmed. This is area outside the area as you know. It’s the wildness. Yeah.He got here, and we he served him Savingnon Blanc from our own 2014 In fact, and he said this is not Savingnon Blanc. This is different. I said no, Savingnon Blanc, produced here and he said he liked it. That doesn’t mean so much to me because people are polite, and so this was a nice wine. But when you finished two bottles, I understand he liked it.
AL And if he didn’t, he probably would have said?
OM He is one of the guys who would have said actually. However, the following morning is that they need a digger to go and make some profiles in the ground here. So he dug up 10 different profiles down to three metres. And for each hole that he dug, his mouth goes more and more open. And he says, this is fascinating. Look at this profile, look at the soil and the geology and the mixture of rocks, etc, etc. And then he said, If you allow me, I’ll provide my plants for one hectare. And I will follow it up in seven years.
AL Really?
OM I mean, for me, that was like you just learn to play the guitar. And then Beatles come and says, should we make a record together? It’s amazing.
AL Is this is it?
OM This is this is it. This hectare here is Henro Ballon’s grapes.
AL Wow, amazing.
Ana That’s a fantastic story. It just gets better and better!
Filipe Yeah, so Burgundy is now closer to the Atlantic! So the 19 was the first time that we had the possibility to bottle and we’re not launching it now. Because we need to see how it progresses. But the first stage things are really, really amazing.
OM You should be trying some of the wines Have the enthusiasm when they talk them.
AL I can sort of see your mouth visibly watering as you’re talking about your Chardonnay.
OM It is.
AL: So as well as learning about Portuguese wine, we’re also learning how to make the stuff.
ANA: And that means planting vines, growing grapes and then looking after them.
AL: So we’re not going to turn down a chance to learn about pruning.
ANA: You mean how to tackle our overgrown vines.
AL: Yeah – I mean when they offered to introduce us to George the pruning guy…
ANA: You can’t say no – right?
AL: Exactly. And you got secateur envy…didn’t you?
ANA: Absolutely. I need electric secateurs...
GM: So my name is George Martin's. George Martinez. I’m viticulture manager of Frupor and Vicentino. And we are now in the in the field...where we are pruning Sauvignon Blanc.
AL It looks pretty brutal it must be said!
GM It is it is. Basically, the way we prune will indicate the way we want the plants to grow and to produce. So we can define, let's say the architecture of the plant. We can prune the plant to produce more, and to produce less so. And because of that, as well, there's a direct linking between wine quality and production.
AL So this vine this, this is Sauvignon Blanc, you say? Yeah, and it's it, it branches off from main root, which is about what's that three quarters of metre from the ground?
GM Yes, more or less. So it's basically has one, one, main, one main foot...we leave the main branch of the main arm that we, we put last year, and then we just select, we just select 1,2,3,4 canes, where we cut them and we just leave these new growth areas.
Ana I'm looking at all the people pruning in there working super-fast. How long does it take to prune, like a hectare?
GM One hectare? Yeah. Usually if if depends of the type of pruning. What they are doing now is one of the most simple pruning systems.
GM So, I think more or less, it's one day per one hectare on this system.
AL: And we couldn’t pass up a chance to ask for a little advice about our...erm...parcel?
ANA: But he wasn’t very impressed with your photos of the vines was he…
AL So I took these the other day. Here we go that terrible colour rubbish photographs. Three of them. And they all look like this. They've got no irrigation coming into them.
GM: Right. This is a bit Wild huh?
AL Yeah, obviously, we've no idea what they are right? There were some grapes on them last year
GM Oh that's that will produce incredible bottles of wine.
AL So we do want to plant like a third of a hectare of grapes of some description in the future. But I just thought what I should do with them. I should prune them so at least when they come up...You should - I mean at least you have you have some some grapes.
AL Something to experiment with exactly how they grow. And you know, just to learn really definitely any idea what it is.
GM It's difficult to understand the way it's been done in the past. Bloody hell, what a mess. This is OM’s house...beautiful isn’t it etc It’s like a paradise almost. OK. Thanks very much.
OM house welcome: Hello how are you? What a gorgeous house.
AL What are we tasting today? What are you what are we up to?
OM We have some shellfish oysters and clams and we'll have some tambouril rice which is monkfish rice I guess in English. Therefore will serve you some roses and some white wine - that looks like a Chardonnay isn't it? Then we can have three different Pinot Noirs, in three different ways.
Filipe So we have a 100% Pinot Noir, and it's a rose. So it's a very light and pale salmon, pink rose, this one aged on barrels. When the grapes arrived, they are very, very, very, very gently crushed, because we get the first what we call the first juice. And this is the one that goes into this wine. So it's very not only the grapes are chosen, almost, you know, bunch by bunch, at the winery, they really have extra care if you want on the on the pressing.
OM Taste is something that we are not educated from childhood, I could point at your sweater your shirt and say exactly the colour is not blue. It's slightly turquoisey or ocean blue, you have words to describe down to the smallest detail. But we never learn that in taste. But it's the same kind of organ that you can develop and it can have words and you can recognise, and you can remember, like I will remember your shirt being ocean blue, for instance, you can remember, ah, the wine and drank five years ago had this particular taste. But it's also the way to organise the different taste in your brain. So it's as much that as actually taste.
OM Educating your nose to recognise and separate different basic smells and tastes if you like. And the vocabulary is enormous. You can talk about everything from leather and earth to flower and fruit, perfume and what have you. So that's the tasting part of it. And then you have more texture, you have wines that are more fatty, more rich if you like. And then you have a third aspect, you have the acidity. That's by and large, the wine is better the more acid, even in red wines.
AL And I suppose a lot of people will say, Oh, the wine tasting thing is just wine snobs, they talk about all these flowery language. But I guess we're learning it's a way of, of sharing a palette, sharing how you describe blue – how you describe a taste is is very difficult playing off what you've just said about people not knowing how to describe what that flavour is.
OM That's why they say it's snobbish because they don't understand is like somebody talking about a painting. The more you know, the more you can appreciate and the more you see in that painting, and the more you like to talk and share with others as well, same thing with a glass of wine. The more you know, the more you understand, the more interesting it is to analyse it and enjoy it. And also share your opinions.
AL: So on that - cheers - tell us what you can smell and what you can taste.
OM Let's just smell it first. I forgot to talk about the saltiness that we have in this the first thing that comes to my nose when I put my nose into the glass, is that a fine saltiness that is very present. And then obviously I recognise that it is the Pinot Noir grape, which is the slight fruitiness of the Pinot Noir...and it triggers my nose...I would like taste right?
AL Okay. Stage Two.
OM And it is simply wonderful. It has this, you know, it's not short. It's not too rich. It has this fantastic balance. In particular, this one I think it's a beautifully balanced, Pinot Noir rose wine.
AL Thank you very much indeed for the tour of the vineyard yesterday for this fabulous lunch and the tastings – particularly the Pinot Noirs.
Ana For all of your time and all of the wonderful insights that we have gained from you. Thank you so much.
ANA: And thank you so much...
AL: For listening to our first podcast!
ANA: If you liked it tell all your friends.
AL: If you hated it don’t tell anyone.
ANA: Thanks to Vicentino wines – and Ole Martin Siam in particular for hosting us, showing us around.
AL: And giving us a lovely lunch with lots of wine
ANA: Thanks to the Rota Vicentina
AL: And to all of our guests
ANA: Share us, like us
AL: Love us...
ANA: And please listen to the next episode...where we get down to some serious business
ANA: We’re heading to big, bold, Alentejo red wine country
AL: To boldly go where you might not have gone before
ANA: And to follow us on our Big Portuguese Wine Adventure...
AL: Oh...you can do better than that: Our Big Portuguese Wine Adventure...
Get full access to The Big Portuguese Wine Adventure at wineportugal.substack.com/subscribe -
After months of criss-crossing Alentejo in search of stories, storytellers and the best possible wines, our documentary-style podcast is almost ready to go live.
We’ve increased the number of episodes from ten to a dozen to squeeze in some extra elements of a Portuguese wine story.
Today we’re launching the latest series trailer - if there’s anyone you think would like to be a part of our journey please ask them to sign up for free, or to subscribe if they want early access to the episodes and a deeper dive.
The series is a fascinating travelogue through the history and geography of Portugal through wine.
We meet maverick winemakers, visit some of the biggest and the smallest vineyards and taste our way through two thousand years of grape-growing history...while having a lot of fun at the same time.
The first season begins in Alentejo – a new world wine region in an old world wine country and the place we now call home.
The Big Portuguese Wine Adventure is a reader-supported publication. Please consider becoming a free or a paid subscriber.
From May 2024 we’ll be launching an episode every weekend and subscribers will receive an extra midweek episode - a deeper dive into the winery of the week, longer interviews and tastings and special offers for those with a deeper interest in Portuguese wine.
And if you want to hear more about the off-grid, wine-themed eco-luxe lodge we’re building on the Alentejo coast, sign up for the weekly blog Off-Grid and Ignorant in Portugal.
And we want your thoughts and your feedback…please get in touch! We’ll let you know as soon as the first episode drops!
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