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Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr, about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes.
Key topics include:
Training volume â Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development.Execution and super compensation â Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into âtraining holes,â where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance.Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level.Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches.For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.
As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yetâVela Stivina in Croatiaâsharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits.
Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures.
Key Takeaways:
Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence.Weather Matters: Jenâs preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment.Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing.Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies.Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals.Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles.Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits.Embracing New Challenges: Success doesnât always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding.Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence.Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challengesâwhether itâs a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbingâcan lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching.
Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos!
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries.
Key Topics Include:
Sarahâs Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned.Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery.Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference.
Highlights from this Discussion Include:
Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age.Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration.Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers.Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age.Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength.Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body.Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time.This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In this episode of the Lattice Podcast, host Josh Hadley sits down with renowned coach Ollie Torr, who has guided multiple Olympic athletes and collaborated with national teams worldwide. Together, they delve into the rigorous and strategic training required for Olympic climbers, revealing what distinguishes potential Olympic medallists from other elite international competitorsâboth in terms of personality traits and training approaches.
Key Takeaways:
The key differences between international competition climbers and those poised to win Olympic medalsThe vital role of a strong support network, including parents, coaches, physiotherapists, and media managers, in an athleteâs journey to successThe importance of physical training focused on building resilience, cultivating the ability to push limits, and embracing challengesHow training cycles, including deliberate "training holes" and super compensation, push athletes to their peak performanceThe significance of dedication, sacrifice, and trust in the training process for achieving success at the highest levelThe role of genetics and body type in climbing performance, alongside the impact of lifestyle choices and the joy of trainingDonât miss this latest episode and elevate your climbing knowledge with expert insights from Josh Hadley and Ollie Torr.
And best of luck to all the GB athletes in Paris 2024!
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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This is the second of a two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve McClure, one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss what it means to continue pushing boundaries and achieving peak performance in your 50s. Steveâs remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and big walling. He achieved his highest sport climbing grade at 46 years old, âRainmanâ 9b at Malham cove, defying expectations and setting an inspiring example for climbers everywhere.
Topics Covered:
Life in Decades: Steve reflects on how his life has evolved from his 20s and 30s into his 40s and 50s, including changes in family, work, and climbing.Changes and Challenges: The main changes and challenges Steve has experienced as heâs gotten older.Climbing Performance: Which aspects of performance continue to improve with age and which tend to stagnate or decline.Training Focus: How Steve works on maintaining and improving his performance.Balance Shift: How his focus has shifted between bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing over the years.Performance Energy: Where Steve currently focuses most of his performance energy.Effective Training: What training methods are working for Steve now and how have they changed.Common Mistakes: Common errors ageing climbers make and how to avoid them.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In todayâs Lattice Podcast Highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with the legendary Steve McClure to discuss the secrets behind maintaining and performing into your 50s. Steve's storied career includes ground-breaking ascents and impressive repeats across all climbing disciplines, making him a unique authority on the subject.
Highlights from this discussion include:
Emphasising the importance of aligning training with specific climbing goals for optimal results.Understanding and addressing weaknessesImportance of top-quality trainersThe significance of dedicating undistracted time to climbing and how full-time commitment can lead to substantial improvements.This 13min episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that delves into the evolution of climbing grades, training methods, and Steveâs unique approach to staying at the top of his game.
For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.
As a thank you to our listeners, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In this two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve Mcclure , one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of operating at the limit. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and even big walling.
His notable achievements include âMutationâ 9a+/5.15a at Raven Tor which was upgraded from 9a/5.14d making it one of the first of this grade in the world, and the first ascent of âRainmanâ 9b/5.15b at Malham Cove, the first of this grade in the UK.
Topics Covered:
Operating at the Limit.Key Factors: What makes climbers excel or struggle at the limit?How climbing grades have changed over his career and the industry's influences.The roles of gear, training, psychology, and tactics in grade evolution.Elements of training that had the biggest effect on Steveâs performance.Predictions on where climbing training is headed and emerging opportunities.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's Podcast Highlight, we delve into the world of climbing with Jana Ć vecovĂĄ, an accomplished climber currently taking on the challenging boulder problem Terra Nova, graded 8C+.
Here are the key insights from our conversation:
Approaching Goals with Determination: Jana shares her approach to climbing goals, emphasising the importance of focus and determination while enjoying the journey.
Dealing with Doubts and Criticism: Despite facing doubts and criticism, Jana stays resilient and trusts in her abilities, showcasing the mental fortitude required in climbing.Training with Lattice Training: Jana discusses her experience training with Lattice Training and the remarkable improvements she's seen in her climbing performance.Exploring Climbing Opportunities: Jana encourages climbers to explore the diverse climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic, highlighting its unique challenges and rewards.This Podcast Highlight offers a glimpse into Jana's climbing journey and her passion for the sport. For the full conversation and more insights, listen to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.
Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's Lattice Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with coach Maddie Cope to delve into the evolution of education and training in the climbing world. They discuss significant changes in three key areas: energy systems, female athletes, and strength and conditioning. Tom and Maddie share insights on how understanding and approaches have transformed over the years, leading to positive outcomes in climbing performance and training effectiveness.
Main topics include:
Energy Systems: Improved categorisation and understanding of energy systems have enhanced training effectiveness and load management.Female Athletes: Education on the menstrual cycle and female physiology has empowered female climbers, improving training structure and performance.Strength and Conditioning: Shifts in attitudes towards strength and conditioning now emphasise specificity, progressive overload, and injury prevention, with a focus on core and upper body strength.As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In todayâs Lattice Podcast Highlight, hosts Maddy Cope and Tom Randall discuss Lattice's brand-new online flexibility training course. This course emphasises the importance of education and knowledge-sharing in climbing training, focusing on three main goals:
Educating climbers on methods beyond passive static stretchingIntegrating flexibility training into overall training programsHelping climbers select exercises based on their flexibility level.The course provides step-by-step guides and assessments, to transform your approach to flexibility training and promote a sustainable, informed method.
Highlights include:
Training FrequencyMenstrual Cycle ConsiderationsStructured ApproachEvolving Training CultureActive vs. Passive StretchingImportance of EducationThis episode is a highlight from a more in-depth conversation coming next week, covering additional insights on flexibility training, energy systems, and optimising performance for climbers.âŁ
Special Offer Ends Soon, 1st July at Midnight: Get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat. Donât miss this chance to elevate your training!
https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In this weekâs podcast join Lattice Training coach,Josh Hadley, and fellow coach
Fran Giacomozzi, as they answer your burning questions about flexibility training for climbers.
Josh and Fran dive into how to improve flexibility, starting with practical tips on specific stretches, including how to utilise different types of stretches such as tempo.Key Topics Covered:
Integrating flexibility with climbingAt-home body weight exercisesEssential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobilityAt-home body weight exercises, including upper bodyManaging soreness and dealing with injuriesStrategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progressJoin us for this comprehensive episode as Josh and Fran share their expert insights on flexibility training for climbers. Whether youâre struggling with hypermobility, looking to improve your range of motion, or seeking motivation to stretch consistently, this episode is packed with valuable advice and practical tips.
If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! Weâd love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight.
https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, coach Maddy Cope is joined by coach Billy Ridal to discuss the challenges and insecurities faced while climbing a difficult pitch on a big wall. They delve into the physical and mental efforts required to overcome insecurities and stick with the climb.
Topics include:
Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls.Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them.Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents.This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that explores additional insights on managing nerves, maintaining focus, and handling time constraints during multi-pitch climbs. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's episode, host and coach, Maddy Cope, is joined by Dr. Sarah Duvall, a women's health and fitness specialist, to explore the intersection of climbing, fitness, and motherhood. Maddy brings her experience from coaching elite climbers post-partum such as Emily Harrington, and her passion for climbing to the conversation as she delves into Sarah's expertise. With over 15 years in the climbing industry and a background in coaching and climbing performance, Maddy is excited to learn from Sarah's wealth of experience.
Together, they uncover practical strategies and exercises to enhance your climbing journey, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. From managing fear and anxiety to finding balance and prioritisation, this episode is packed with valuable insights:
Topics include:
Insights into Sarah's personal climbing journey postpartum and her impressive climbing achievements.
The importance of breathing techniques and core strength for climbers, particularly during pregnancy and postpartum.
Practical exercises and tips for improving breathing patterns and core engagement.
Strategies for managing fear and anxiety when returning to climbing postpartum.
Finding balance and prioritisation in different seasons of life.
Don't miss out on this empowering conversation with Dr. Sarah Duvall. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more.
Some links from Sarah to help support the podcast:
Heel hooking hamstring strain strengthening prevention protocol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqvTjDcGZXQ&t=9s
Advanced hip rotational exercises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoC5YhmojGQ&t=37s
Drawing in vs abdominal brace: https://youtu.be/WA-mFvykZ9k?si=hQVcYeG1TDquRDpK
Rib cage mobility breathing exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1AkIPbnbfg
Pushing vs pulling and core pressure: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B4ezNr6HXGu/?igsh=dHB1dHllbTB6dDBmThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cameron Hartley to explore two interesting theories. The âCentral Governor Theoryâ, which suggests that a system in our brain signals when it's time to stop exercising to prevent potential harm, and the âPsycho-Biological Theoryâ, which integrates psychological constructs into our understanding of endurance performance.
Understanding exercise cessation: The role of the brain in regulating physical limits according to the Central Governor Theory.Integrating psychology in endurance: How the Psycho-Biological Theory emphasises the perception of effort and motivation.
Highlights from this discussion include:This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that covers additional insights on endurance performance and how these theories can be applied in training. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Join us for an inspiring podcast with Jana Ć vecovĂĄ, an accomplished climber who is currently pushing her limits on the boulder problem Terranova, which was established by Adam Ondra in the Czech Republic back in 2011, itâs currently graded 8C+/V16, and with no repeats, itâs rumoured it could be 9A/V17. Jana's dedication and goal-oriented mindset have propelled her to become one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. In this episode, she shares valuable insights on setting and achieving goals, dealing with pressure and criticism, and finding joy in the process.
Topics include:
Setting and achieving goals in climbing: Jana discusses the significance of setting goals and how it has fueled her progress.Trusting yourself and overcoming doubts: How Jana has dealt with doubts and criticism from others throughout her climbing journey. She shares her strategies for staying focused, trusting her abilities, and not letting external opinions hinder her.Finding your own fun in climbing: She shares her perspective on what brings joy in climbing and the variety of challenges it offers. Challenges and rewards of climbing in cold weather: Her experiences climbing in different weather conditions and insights on preparing and adapting to these challenges.Embracing adaptability during climbing trips: Climbing trips don't always go the way you expect, Jana explores the importance of adaptability, maintaining a positive mindset, and finding opportunities for growth even when faced with obstacles.Exploring the climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic: Itâs hidden gems!Join us in today's episode where Jana Ć vecovĂĄ shares her passion for climbing, her personal insights, and her excitement for future climbing projects.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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Today's highlight is on Emily Harrington's postpartum journey, including her rapid recovery and return to climbing and skiing.
Emily faced criticism for her decision to resume physical activities soon after giving birth, but she stood firm in her belief that it's essential to do what feels right for oneself.
Join us as Emily opens up about the challenges of navigating postpartum life, including the emotional and physical toll of breastfeeding and the pressures of body image.Topics Covered:
Birth Experience and Early Postpartum PeriodChallenges of Body Image and BreastfeedingReturn to Climbing and SkiingThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In this episode, join host Tom Randall as he sits down with Jill Whitaker, she is a 61-year-old climber and mother of two accomplished pro climbers (Pete and Katy Whitaker). She is a testament to the power of perseverance and dedication!
We will explore Jill's remarkable journey into climbing post-60 and her unique perspectives on training and climbing.
Main topics:
Jill's climbing background: From her early years in trad climbing to her rediscovery of the sport and return to climbing.Starting training and setting goals: How she juggled supporting her childrenâs climbing alongside her own training after a long break from the sport.Jill's training program: Insights into her training program, focusing on multiple areas including; pulling strength, finger strength, and maintaining power endurance and flexibility.Experiences with testing climbing performance: Jill's experiences with testing, and the positive feedback she received from friends.Climbing trip to Leonidio, Greece: Highlights from her recent climbing trip, where she achieved personal bests on some challenging routes.Reflections and Advice: Jill reflects on her climbing journey and the impact of structured training on her performance. Plus, advice for climbers of all ages seeking to improve..Throughout the conversation, Jill's journey serves as a testament to the power of a positive attitude, perseverance, and the importance of having a structured training program.
Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.
Tune in to gain valuable insights and inspiration from Jill Whitaker's incredible and wholesome attitude towards the sport and life.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In this podcast highlight, Tom Randall and Will Bosi discuss various aspects of Will's climbing projects, aiming to understand the mental process of walking away from a project. They also touch on Will's future plans for 2024 and whether Will will try a 9c route any time soon.
Listen to the Podcast highlight, or the full episode on our Spotify, Apple Music, Stitcher, and many more!
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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In today's Lattice Podcast, Coach Josh Hadley sits down with Dr Simon Fryer to discuss the challenges of testing rock climbers, highlighting the differences between climbing and other sports.
Dr Simon Fryer is a Senior Lecturer in Sport & Exercise Physiology at the University of Gloucestershire, with a PhD in biomedical science. His background is in sports, exercise, and biomedical science, with a specialist interest in cardiovascular and cardiometabolic physiology. As an exercise physiologist, he delivers a range of Sports and Exercise Science courses and his research focuses on the impact of exercise and physical activity on health, disease, and sports performance, specifically concerning the cardiovascular and cardiometabolic systems. He has also delivered many talks on the importance of physical activity and health, such as his TEDx Cheltenham talk "Are You Sitting Comfortably?"
Key topics include:
Health benefits of climbingMisguided information in the climbing communityThe inconvenient truth about getting good at climbingImportance of base training and lower limb strengthAdvice for pursuing an academic or research routeWe also cover:
Importance of peripheral adaptations in climbing and the role of aerobic fitnessCurrent best practices for testing climbers, including occlusion tests and near-infrared spectroscopyVision for the future of climbing performance testing, including the use of big data and technologySo whether youâre a sports science advocate, or simply curious to hear more of the science behind climbing, take a seat and enjoy todayâs podcast.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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