Folgen
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Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget
👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne
Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavitt
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks
(00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing
(00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays
(00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love
(00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing
(00:26:03) – Book of Hate
(00:31:11) – Planet Earth
(00:33:39) – The first cell phones
(00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness
(00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing
(00:54:15) – The vision of new routing
(00:56:52) – A new area in Baja
(01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40
(01:13:44) – Almost drowning
(01:21:50) – Aging gracefully
(01:27:54) – Hallux limitus
(01:34:24) – Getting remodeled
(01:39:21) – Piloting
(01:49:55) – More route development
(01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon
(01:56:26) – Time
(02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days
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Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar’s study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.
Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/reviews
Or skip the discount and listen to the full episode here 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
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Fehlende Folgen?
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Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.
How You Can Help:
https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherd
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit
(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system
(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978
(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues
(00:18:36) – Formative experiences
(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan
(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style
(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles
(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught
(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles
(01:20:00) – How we can help
(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation
(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities
(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up
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Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol’s cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn’t climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey.
Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget
👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne
Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sol-wertkin
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:57) – How I met Sol
(00:03:56) – Depression & climbing roots
(00:09:02) – New routing in the PNW
(00:12:02) – The “Golden Era” in Leavenworth
(00:23:37) – Johnny Goicoechea
(00:28:37) – Training & sport climbing
(00:31:27) – Smith Rock & Spain
(00:35:40) – Getting diagnosed with cancer
(00:49:07) – Lifetimes, surgery 1, & do the things
(00:54:43) – Short of breath
(00:59:12) – Systematic diaphragm paralysis, & surgery 2
(01:03:33) – E-bikes
(01:10:20) – Diaphragm plication
(01:21:54) – Chylothorax
(01:25:15) – The early stages of dying
(01:28:39) – Surgery 3
(01:32:31) – Planning for the worst, & getting discharged
(01:36:40) – Bonus life
(01:41:55) – A final hurdle
(01:52:32) – Every day is a gift
(01:54:14) – Sailing
(02:01:06) – Replacing climbing
(02:08:48) – Goals
(02:13:59) – E-biking & ableism
(02:19:07) – Why Sol doesn’t climb anymore
(02:22:33) – A richer life after climbing
(02:29:58) – Trail clearing & volunteering
(02:34:38) – What’s next
(02:37:44) – Healthcare & nursing
(02:40:46) – Sol’s nuggets
(03:06:19) – Let’s go!
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Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.
Buy Stian's Book:
adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuries
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget
👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne
Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Tindeq:
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious
(00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing
(00:11:55) – Outline of topics
(00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries
(00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries
(00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable
(00:29:13) – Lifting weights
(00:31:04) – The Japanese approach
(00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries
(00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?
(00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries
(00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training
(01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity
(01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury
(01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery
(01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?
(01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries
(01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within
(01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries
(01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?
(01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury
(01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing
(01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds
(02:01:08) – Individual finger training
(02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves
(02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries
(02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain
(02:13:20) – Mindset tips
(02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent
(02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book
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Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Tindeq:
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast
(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’
(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency
(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle
(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety
(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume
(00:41:08) – Tree crimping
(00:43:50) – Almost daily training
(00:49:08) – The basics
(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions
(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches
(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game
(01:24:43) – Finger training
(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14)
(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs
(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s
(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks
(02:02:56) – Daydreaming
(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail
(02:13:27) – One thing at a time
(02:17:19) – Writing books
(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11
(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts
(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict
(02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet
(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood
(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health
(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto
(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto
(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management
(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol
(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors
(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol
(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research
(03:54:50) Where to buy Dave’s book
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This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/best-of-2024
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:05) – EP 200: Brook Rabouotou (Patreon EXTRA)
(00:14:29) – EP 201: James Pearson
(00:32:30) – EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns
(00:43:58) – EP 214: Neely Quinn Returns
(00:50:30) – EP 216: Maddy Cope
(00:54:30) – EP 221: Keenan Takahashi (Patreon EXTRA)
(01:02:20) – EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns
(01:19:24) – EP 229: Shauna Coxsey
(01:26:26) – EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest
(01:35:08) – EP 240: Alex Megos
(01:45:18) – EP 242: Molly Beard
(01:53:02) – EP 249: Chris Sharma (Patreon EXTRA)
(02:01:32) – EP 250: Beth Rodden
(02:12:12) – EP 252: Justin Salas
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April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/april-davidson
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:22) – Living with a blind man
(00:07:33) – Why they quit vanlife
(00:10:04) – Building out their van
(00:21:02) – Settling in Vegas
(00:23:44) – April’s relationship with climbing
(00:26:18) – Growing up & moving a lot
(00:31:44) – Moving to LA
(00:33:40) – 30s
(00:40:00) – Loss & addiction
(00:49:06) – An abusive relationship
(00:52:01) – Finding climbing
(00:54:34) – Breaking free
(00:58:56) – Dissociation & wasted time
(01:02:13) – Support & accountability
(01:05:21) – Her Instagram career
(01:12:57) – Photography & video
(01:16:15) – Going with the flow
(01:17:57) – Weddings & elopements
(01:21:10) – Health issues & adrenal fatigue
(01:28:56) – The carnivore diet
(01:35:25) – Getting strong
(01:40:00) – Gut health & her current diet
(01:43:52) – Vegan & vegetarian diets
(01:50:52) – Responsible meat eating
(01:55:08) – Quitting caffeine
(01:56:37) – Food tracking
(01:59:39) – Cake
(02:00:28) – Rapid fire questions
(02:04:18) – Narrating life to Justin
(02:07:30) – Ultimate trust
(02:08:34) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salas
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries
(00:05:26) – Vanlife
(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience
(00:15:35) – An invisible disability
(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”
(00:27:55) – Faces
(00:30:45) – Losing his vision
(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days
(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing
(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms
(00:48:36) – Assistive technology
(00:54:34) – How he climbs
(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing
(01:10:59) – Sight guides
(01:22:34) – Footholds
(01:25:29) – Stamina training
(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics
(01:33:14) – Getting inspired
(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em
(01:37:32) – Assessing landings
(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching
(01:45:04) – Toothpaste
(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes
(01:51:42) – Asking for help
(01:57:54) – April
(02:05:47) – Building out a van
(02:10:09) – Vegas
(02:12:56) – Nature is healing
(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear
(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk
(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing
(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions
(02:39:39) – Blind visualization
(02:46:48) – Building a mental map
(02:50:11) – Changemaker
(02:54:40) – Faith
(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning
(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy
(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”
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Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
greenchef.com/NUGGET50
Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jerome
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:12) – Hit & run
(00:04:42) – The recovery process
(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift
(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project
(00:13:23) – A really fun game
(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing
(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food
(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber
(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose
(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing
(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah
(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders
(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New
(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia
(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude
(01:37:45) – More about The New
(01:46:09) – Life going forward
(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New
(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK
(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA
(02:03:19) – Building a database
(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA
(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features
(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-rodden
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:54) – Injuries
(00:03:28) – Writing her book
(00:08:14) – Excavating memories
(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy
(00:13:59) – Living in fear
(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan
(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy
(00:27:06) – Putting the book together
(00:28:29) – A shared experience
(00:37:45) – Being honest
(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book
(00:47:39) – Facing backlash
(00:56:11) – Reductionism
(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells
(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career
(01:10:48) – Magic Line
(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change
(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game
(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories
(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs
(01:44:28) – The next level down
(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism
(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book
(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book
(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharma
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone
(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down
(00:10:32) – Knee injury
(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship
(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura
(00:20:07) – New challenges
(00:27:32) – Chapters
(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot
(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia
(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution
(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start
(00:52:32) – Should or should not
(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing
(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute
(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics
(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo
(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives
(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season
(01:27:21) – Santa Linya
(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again
(01:40:17) – Paris 2028
(01:46:32) – Embracing competition
(01:50:00) – The next generation
(01:54:12) – The media churn
(01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice
(02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ”
(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids
(02:12:32) – Ferrari
(02:16:16) – Magic
(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever
(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people
(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huber
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:25) – Many valleys
(00:04:53) – Hunting
(00:14:39) – Staying young
(00:16:29) – Thomas’ recent trip to Choktoi
(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions
(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp
(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis’ relationship with climbing
(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible
(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen
(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57
(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday
(01:01:17) – Beer break
(01:02:37) – Early training
(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution
(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux
(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup
(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s
(01:20:55) – 9a & beer
(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage
(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex
(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex
(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings
(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys
(01:54:00) – Patagonia
(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap
(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel
(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive
(02:06:24) – Freiheit
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Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!
Sign the Petition:
Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area
(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)
More Links:
stgeorgeclimberscoalition.org
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen
(00:02:16) – Intro
(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water
(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley
(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s
(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place
(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings
(00:17:46) – Fundraising
(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd
(00:27:56) – Striking a balance
(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing
(00:33:00) – Top secret information
(00:34:02) – Wrap up
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus
(00:03:50) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Think long-term
(00:08:10) – Steven’s Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it
(00:10:51) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades
(00:14:17) – Steven’s Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up
(00:17:29) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades
(00:28:34) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do more of what you haven’t been doing
(00:33:24) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)
(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up
(00:38:12) – Steven’s Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances
(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions
(00:44:12) – Creative home walls
(00:45:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you’ve been doing
(00:45:49) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overtraining
(00:50:32) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people’s agendas
(01:00:46) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking
(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through
(01:09:21) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often
(01:12:43) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: You’re not actually plateaued, you’ve just built a tower
(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids
(01:19:48) – That’s a wrap on season 2!
-
Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more.
Join Kaizen’s Courage Collective:
skool.com/courage
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asiedu
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Kaizen's Emmy
(00:04:22) – My political background, the health crisis, & RKF Jr
(00:11:01) – My algorithm breaking & discovering Kaizen
(00:12:46) – What Kaizen does
(00:14:32) – Kaizen’s political journey
(00:21:13) – Kaizen’s awakening
(00:28:35) – Becoming a life coach
(00:31:51) – The media, our legal system, & Trump
(00:39:15) – How the media portrays RFK Jr, & the “white supremacists are very fine people” narrative
(00:43:16) – Kaizen’s experience talking about Trump
(00:46:25) – Nuance & the power of being truthful
(00:51:13) – Media bias, the influence of advertising, & polarized perceptions
(00:56:12) – Incentives drive everything
(00:57:14) – Tulsi Gabbard, Joe Biden’s cognitive decline, & and the DNC appointing Kamala Harris
(01:02:09) – Kaizen’s political journey continued
(01:10:12) – Priorities
(01:12:00) – What is America?
(01:14:15) – What does a “great” America actually look like?
(01:20:57) – Government corruption, Hunter Biden’s laptop, censorship, & free speech
(01:29:48) – Why this election is bigger than Trump vs. Harris
(01:32:35) – Why I feel frustrated with US politics
(01:35:34) – My health journey & why I care about the health crisis
(01:40:52) – The sick care system & our food system
(01:42:13) – Monsanto, GMO crops, Roundup, glyphosate, Bayer, & cancer lawsuits
(01:47:47) – How much we spend managing chronic disease
(01:50:40) – Sense vs. dollars
(01:53:32) – The health crisis is fundamental
(01:59:34) – Ripple effects
(02:01:47) – Pharma & conflicts of interest
(02:02:30) – Voting with our dollars
(02:07:57) – Taking responsibility
(02:09:15) – Synergistic effects
(02:10:24) – Abortion, racism, & what happens if Trump wins
(02:23:59) – Inviting curiosity & losing perspective
(02:27:24) – Steel man argument for Kamala Harris
(02:32:25) – Mass deportation
(02:37:48) – Steel man argument for Trump
(02:41:34) – January 6th
(02:44:17) – Mail-in ballots & voter ID
(02:48:26) – My final thoughts
(02:50:41) – Kaizen’s final thoughts & The Courage Collective
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Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargo
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing
(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall
(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster
(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b
(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition
(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain
(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling
(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF
(00:25:45) – Representing South America
(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)
(00:28:33) – Goal oriented
(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”
(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)
(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo
(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall
(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga
(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training
(00:54:29) – When to specialize
(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid
(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines
(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil
(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil
(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America
(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines
(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+
(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16
(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)
(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)
(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard
(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:17:15.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Martin's Original Episode:
EP 143: Matt Heyliger
Work With Matt:
www.sendagain.co
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt
(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury
(00:06:42) – What I should have done
(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs
(00:23:12) – The injury timeline
(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping
(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)
(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells
(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)
(00:37:37) – BFR
(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing
(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing
(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing
(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage
(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings
(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading
(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session
(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury
(01:09:41) – Tetris
(01:11:00) – Testing with tape
(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-5
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:19) – Injuries we thought we wouldn’t come back from
(00:05:02) – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury
(00:09:19) – Jesse’s Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible
(00:11:07) – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future
(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Know that it’s going to be ok
(00:16:04) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume
(00:19:07) – Steven’s Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up
(00:27:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing
(00:31:19) – My best onsight season ever
(00:35:07) – Steven’s Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)
(00:38:41) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Protect your identity
(00:43:16) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to
(00:46:59) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn’t understand your sport/identity
(00:52:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly
(00:57:28) – More finger rehab tips
(00:58:53) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)
(01:07:18) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury
(01:09:54) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)
(01:14:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process
(01:15:27) – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.
(01:15:42) – Wrap up
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Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Ocelot Grips:
ocelotgrips.com/nugget
Use code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.
Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
greenchef.com/nugget50
Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:34) – The Murder Room
(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago
(00:10:02) – Molly’s background
(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s
(00:14:45) – The language of movement
(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master
(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s
(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes
(00:34:36) – The power of climbing
(00:35:49) – Getting her L5
(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting
(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting
(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends
(01:00:54) – Coordination
(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead
(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation
(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter
(01:12:10) – A tide shift
(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries
(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing
(01:24:49) – Finding separation
(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu
(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River
(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters
(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?
(01:52:14) – Splitting the field
(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”
(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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