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Fibers of Pactics is a 4-part capsule series, produced by Population, in which employees and management at Pactics, a unique manufacturer in Siem Reap, share their invaluable perspectives on the manufacturing industry in Cambodia.
Throughout this series, we have heard some of the challenges facing the manufacturing industry in Cambodia and what the industry should focus on when looking to the future. We have also gotten insight into the experiences of working in the industry and at Pactics in specific. On the fourth and final part of the Fibers of Pactics Capsule, Dorian van der Mullen and Kelsey Tsuchiyama go deeper into Pactics’ origins, role in the industry, and hopes for the future with Naing (Wave) Vannoeun, Pactics’ Factory Manager and first employee hired over a decade ago, and Piet Holten, Pactics’ Founder and Chairman.
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Fibers of Pactics is a 4-part capsule series, produced by Population, in which employees and management at Pactics, a unique manufacturer in Siem Reap, share their invaluable perspectives on the manufacturing industry in Cambodia.
Previous parts of this series have touched on some of the benefits of working at Pactics. In Part III of Fibers of Pactics, Kelsey Tsuchiyama and Dorian van der Mullen expand on this with Lay Sreyem, Pactics’ Group Treasurer, and Thim Chanreaksmey, Pactics’ Compliance Officer. Both Sreyem and Reaksmey have experienced the highs and lows with Pactics and explain why they have stayed for nearly 10 years.
Stay tuned for the final episode of Fibers of Pactics to be released next week!
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Fibers of Pactics is a 4-part capsule series in which employees and management at Pactics, a unique manufacturer in Siem Reap, share their invaluable perspectives on the manufacturing industry in Cambodia.
Tune in to Part 2 of the series to hear from Mrs. Vong Hoy, an operator at Pactics, and Mrs. Chanthea Srim, a supervisor at Pactics, to talk about their experiences working in the manufacturing industry of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, some of the changes they’ve witnessed in Cambodia’s manufacturing industry over the years and what they hope for the future.
Stay tuned for more in the Capsule Series, Fibers of Pactics!
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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Fibers of Pactics is a 4-part capsule series in which employees and management at Pactics, a unique manufacturer in Siem Reap, share their invaluable perspectives on the manufacturing industry in Cambodia.
Tune in to the first part of the series where Kelsey Tsuchiyama and Dorian van der Mullen sit down with Sopanhchakpor Phet, Pactics’ Digital Printing and Sublimation Development Manager, and Eang Khoing Pav, Pactics' General Manager, to discuss the changes they’ve witnessed in Cambodia’s manufacturing industry in the past 20 years and what they hope for the future.
Stay tuned for the rest of the series in the following weeks!
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"I wanted to show people that the framing of the problem itself was problematic...I think a lot of people in powerful positions really do subscribe to this savior/empowerment narrative. And those narratives need to be 'unspun' in their heads and their decision-making. At least be honest about what you're doing."
On this episode of Unspun, Bangladeshi scholar and NYU Professor Dr. Dina Siddiqi joins Danielle, Catherine, and Lauren to talk about her work undoing harmful narratives of Bangladeshi garment workers, what is missing from conversations about the Bangladesh garment industry, and the importance of structural changes. Dr. Dina Siddiqi examines topics at the intersection of gender and human rights including transnational feminist politics, women’s work in the ready-made garment industry, and the idea of “saving” the universal garment worker—a common trope of the anti-fast fashion movement.
Thanks for listening to another episode of Unspun and for joining the conversation to create a new vision for the future of fashion and home. Huge thanks to this week’s guest Dr. Dina Siddiqi for sharing her perspective on the industry.
To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.
Tune
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On this episode of Unspun, Lauren, Danielle, and Catherine sit down with recent NYU Stern School of Business graduate Kelsey Tsuchiyama, to talk about her human and women’s rights approach to the industry’s most pressing issues.
Transforming garment workers into emblems of the labor movement largely ignores the complex power dynamics they experience as workers with varied identities whether it’s gender, geography, race, or class. This narrative also intensifies existing power structures in the industry, such as global hierarchies and consumer-worker hierarchies, which can inadvertently be more harmful to workers. In her last remote year at NYU, Kelsey, along with a team of NYU classmates, created a zine to explore these topics.
To hear what other questions organizers, campaigners, and WE should be asking ourselves as we stand in solidarity with workers around the world, tune in to the latest episode of Unspun and check out this .
Huge thanks to this week’s guest Kelsey Tsuchiyama for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can find Kelsey on Linkedin.
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On this episode of Unspun, Arjen Laan, the CEO and one of three partners of Pactics, speaks with Catherine, Danielle, and Lauren about the manufacturer’s approach to seeking values-aligned partnerships and the shortcomings of current supplier-brand relationships. At the heart of this effort, is Arjen's desire to create a Supplier Code of Conduct—a long overdue and crucial part of the equation for equitable partnerships in the supply chain.
To learn more about Arjen’s experiences at Pactics and what he hopes for the future of the industry tune in to the latest episode of Unspun.
Special Note from our Team: A cherished intern from Population will be headed to Cambodia to work with Arjen and Pactics on the Supplier Code of Conduct early 2022. Stay tuned for more updates!
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On this episode of Unspun, Kim van der Weerd, co-founder and host of Manufactured podcast, joins Catherine, Lauren, and Danielle to discuss how the unequal distribution of financial risk shapes the relationship between brands and suppliers.
Kim describes herself as a “student of human rights turned garment factory manager turned sustainable fashion critic.” While she always had an interest in the global political economy and supply chains, she wanted to learn more about what this looks like from the manufacturer's perspective. Tune in to listen to Kim's experience @tonledesign and @pactics, and to hear about what she's doing on @manufactured_podcast.
To join the conversation with Unpsun, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.
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On this episode of Unspun, Kristen Gonzalez, founder of contemporary fashion label, SELVA \ NEGRA, sits down with Danielle, Catherine, and Lauren to talk about the struggles and triumphs of being a small, sustainable brand manufacturing in L.A. and why incorporating her culture into the brand was so important to her. Kristen is committed to a community-rooted approach to business, prioritizing ethical production and sustainable materials sourcing.
SELVA \ NEGRA was an early supporter of the Garment Worker Protection Act or Senate Bill 62 and has worked with the Garment Worker Center to help get the recent bill passed.
Huge thanks to Kristen Gonzalez for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can follow her on Instagram @selvanegra_ or @kristenita_.
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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On this episode of Unspun, Benh Pham, founder and owner of jewelry brand Year 901, sits down with Danielle, Catherine, and Lauren to talk about everything from the origin of what she makes and her intentional sourcing, to the future growth of her small business, as well as, the maker and artisan community at large.
To hear more of Benh and her experience transitioning from a corporate career to owning her own jewelry brand, what being a small maker means to her, and her approach to sustainability, tune in to the latest episode of Unspun.
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“I THINK THAT WE’RE ABLE TO SCALE WHATEVER WE WANT TO SCALE AND...IT’S ALL ABOUT WHAT WE VALUE.”
On this episode of Unspun, Ngozi Okaro, Founder and Executive Director of Custom Collaborative sits down with Lauren, Danielle, and Catherine to discuss her work with Custom Collaborative and her vision for a US-based sewn goods industry at large. At the heart of her work and this discussion is the disconnect between the skilled work required in the sewn goods industry and how that work is valued by society.
Custom Collaborative “trains, mentors, and advocates for and with low to no-income and immigrant women to build the skills necessary to achieve economic success in the sustainable fashion industry and broader society.”
Thanks for listening to another episode of Unspun and for joining the conversation to create a new vision for the future of fashion and home. Huge thanks to this week’s guest Ngozi Okaro for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can follow Ngozi on Instagram at @the.ngozi and Custom Collaborative @customcolab.
To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.
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On this episode of Unspun, Marisa Adler, Senior Consultant at Resource Recycling Systems (RRS), joins Danielle, Lauren, and Catherine for a conversation about overconsumption and textile waste, recycling, and what’s holding us back from a circular system.
From studying national resource management conservation in school to working for local solid waste departments and the NYC Department of Sanitation, Marisa Adler brings a waste and recycling perspective to textile circularity. Several years ago, Adler moved from the NYC Department of Sanitation to her current position at RRS where she primarily focuses on textiles, fashion apparel, and upholstery waste in the U.S.
To hear more of Marisa Adler’s expertise regarding global waste supply chains, what is necessary to create scalable recycling systems, and solutions she has seen, tune into the latest episode of Unspun.
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On this episode of Unspun, Lewis Perkins, President of the Apparel Impact Institute (Aii), sits down with Lauren, Danielle, and Catherine to discuss the genesis of circularity and what needs to change for it to advance in the fashion and home industries.
Perkins got his start with circularity when he worked at Mohawk Industries, where at the time the carpet industry was facing major backlash for their contribution to global landfill waste. Perkins brought this early experience into the fashion industry, leading the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute and Fashion Positive initiative.
Tune in to learn more about Lewis' experience in circularity, from the obstacles he’s identified to the solutions he’s contributing to, and how he looks to the young generation (@genfseries) for inspiration.
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Catherine, Lauren and Danielle discuss the advances and limitations of a circular textiles system, the limitations to the current frameworks the industry is operating within, and the fact that there is no silver bullet and no one path to take in building circular business models.
Numerous companies are exploring circularity to capitalize on the second sale of their products, reduce their production costs, as well as manage risks associated with not taking end of life responsibility of their manufactured products.
Tune in to learn about major circularity milestones, the dawn of luxury recommerce and how brand's are approaching both the consumption conundrum and the fear of cannabalization.
To join the conversation follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.
This episode of Unpsun was recorded in 2020 and released at a later date.
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Marzia Lanfranchi, independent sustainable fashion consultant and founder and director of Cotton Diaries, joins Danielle, Lauren and Catherine for a conversation about her personal mission to shape a healthier fashion system by breaking company siloes and building bridges across supply chains.
Cotton Diaries is a global community of storytellers and professionals committed to making cotton supply chains more sustainable. She brings with her a unique experience having directly worked with and interviewed cotton farmers from all over the world. Her work spans the entire cotton value chain from seed to shelf, and focuses on how to center the voices and experiences of farmers as we work to make cotton cultivation more sustainable and equitable.
Huge thanks to this week’s guest Marzia Lanfranchi for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can follow her @cottondiaries.
To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.
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For almost ten years, the fashion industry focused on transparency and traceability as a tool for ensuring social progress in supply chains. Prior to this, the industry relied on social compliance to improve labor conditions. Unfortunately, the social compliance system is plagued with dysfunctions (corruption among them) and audit fatigue (an exorbitant amount of a facility’s resources, time and money being exhausted by multiple audits from different clients throughout the year).
Responsible purchasing practices most often codified in codes of conduct, are a new foundation for social and labor programs, but they’re just a start. On this episode of Unspun, Lauren, Catherine and Danielle sit down to discuss the birth of social compliance, transparency and traceability and what’s needed to create radical accountability: shifting our lens to the entire value chain.
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“That’s where the paternalistic, but also the colonialism aspect comes out as well. It’s almost like you are slapping these people in the face and saying I’m sorry but you don’t know what’s good for you, so we’re going to come in and tell you, and if you don’t like it we’ll just go to another country and source our goods there.”
On this episode of Unspun, Christian Smith joins Danielle, Lauren and Catherine for a conversation about the sustainable fashion industry, his thoughts on the white middle class dominance of the space, and the stakeholder engagement needed to make real progress. He reminds the industry that this should be one of the “most diverse job profiles you could ever see,” as we are ensuring sustainability for the “future generations of all people.”
Furthermore, he talks about a people-centered approach that acknowledges the legacies of the past, while seeking solutions that empower garment workers today, through a living wage.
Tune in to listen to our conversation with Christian Smith and follow him @inclusi_.
To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.
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Performative marketing is what it sounds like: it’s when brands “perform” the role of being sustainable and ethical without backing up their claims with concrete actions. It can take on many different forms, from greenwashing to wokewashing, savior storytelling and tokenization. But what all of these have in common is that they aren’t accurate representations of brands. Lauren, Catherine, and Danielle explain why we need authentic narratives and how we can get there in this week’s episode of Unspun.
Authentic narratives require brands to understand where they’ve been, where they are and where they’re going. To tell authentic narratives, we have to interrogate who has the power to dictate how stories are told, as well as evaluate which stakeholders we are centering, not only in the stories we tell, but also in the audience we tell those stories to.
To join the conversation follow us @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.
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Investors and those who finance the fashion industry hold the most power in the system. And at the end of the day, they’re most concerned with returns. The reality is these returns can only come as a result of highly unsustainable practices. On this episode of Unspun Rachel Faller, Founder and Creative Director of tonlé, joins Lauren, Catherine, and Danielle in a conversation about how power is distributed throughout the supply chain and what this means for creating sustainable solutions.
tonlé is a slow fashion brand operating in a way that values both the environment and workers. They’re often touted for their zero-waste model and exclusive use of offcuts and deadstock to make their products.
But what’s the most interesting about tonlé’s business model is the way it treats its workers. Employees at tonlé’s workshop in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, are treated with equity and respect. They receive fair compensation, have reasonable hours, and have opportunities to advance.
Tune in to listen to our conversation with Sokpriya Yan also known as Sreyoun and @rachel_faller of @tonlédesign.
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Unequal distribution of risk and reward is prevalent in the fashion industry with garment workers often facing the highest risk and lowest rewards. Despite the industry being set up to maintain this unequal distribution, there are brands that operate outside of the status quo. On this episode of Unspun Sokpriya (Sreyoun) Yan, Head of Operations turned Partner of tonlé, and Founder and Creative Director Rachel Faller, join Danielle, Lauren, and Catherine in a conversation about how the company’s operations diverge from others in the Cambodian garment industry and provide a glimpse into what an equitable value chain relationship looks like.
tonlé is a slow fashion brand operating in a way that values both the environment and workers. They’re often touted for their zero-waste model and exclusive use of offcuts and deadstock to make their products.
But what’s the most interesting about tonlé’s business model is the way it treats its workers. Employees at tonlé’s workshop in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, are treated with equity and respect. They receive fair compensation, have reasonable hours, and have opportunities to advance.
Tune in to listen to our conversation with Sokpriya Yan also known as Sreyoun and @rachel_faller of @tonlédesign.
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
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